Recent posts

#1
Hmmm, it sounds like when you depress the free spool button that the pinion is not fully disengaged from the spool.  If you pop the sideplate off with the two knurled thumbscrews and cycle the reel through the sequence several times, can you see the pinion fully pulling back into the plate?  Also if the handle is spinning backwards at any time, that is a sign of something amiss with the AR clutch bearing (and those can be finicky with too little lube/too much lube/contamination with corrosion/it's the wrong moon phase...   ;D
You're right, it's a bomber of casting reel especially considering when it was produced.  Love mine.  With the condition you describe it being in when you got it; that can make things tough.  Don't give up on it yet! - john
#2
Quote from: Crab Pot on May 05, 2024, 05:12:00 PMAfraid to ask, but do you have a 16/0 Randy?

Steve
I have a Few Steve,
I'm heading out on a two week Vacation. We can Talk when I return,
Daron
#3
Not really a big deal to me. That's exactly how I cast sardines when flylining for tuna.
#4
Quote from: Bill B on Today at 03:52:18 PMReading through this thread one thing I've noticed, when talking about line slipping on the arbor. The one variable not has not been introduced is a FULL spool.  And a full or nearly full spool is where we experience slippage.

  &&    OK The first question is how much slip are you seeing :  1 rotation , 10 rotation than it grabs or the worst that you can`t gain any line under full drag " the whole stack is slipping ?

In other discussions regarding drag numbers, is the leverage applied with a spool full of line.  We know that as a fish runs and decreases the spool height drag numbers increase.  This is due to the fulcrum effect.

 &&   Very good question ,most people don`t think about it .   That is one of the details I want to touch on .    This is another problem child that should be in mind when installing line on the reel .  I will get into some more later .     Please look at some Utube  videos , pick one and post it for analysis . It is easier to point out the small mistakes that just keep adding up .

A proper test would be to fill the spool completely then apply pressure.  Now I wouldn't want to do this without a winder.  But in testing, first start with no knot or tape on the arbor fill and pull.  Then add different knots, tape, grease, winding pressure, etc, until satisfactory results are obtained.

   &&    I have been watching lots of videos , close to a hundred .  I found 3 good knots . Most knots tied were set for failure  .   [ I am not kidding about playing with a bolt and string you will feel the difference  ]   I have watch a guy do fairly good ready for a "Tha boy " than do another that was R "c"hit      Start with a good foundation and build from there . 
Bill
#5
Quote from: Cor on Today at 06:26:21 AMHope you don't ever intend to take it on a Panga :(

why? 

nothing wrong with the Pangas to get to the fish
#6
I do a simple push/pull and I send it pretty much where it needs to go. No need for flair, just thump it. Hitting within a few feet of your aim is the game.
#7
Okuma Tutorials and Questions / Re: Komodo SS issues.
Last post by Phishface - Today at 04:07:27 PM
 ;)
#8
Reading through this thread one thing I've noticed, when talking about line slipping on the arbor. The one variable not has not been introduced is a FULL spool.  And a full or nearly full spool is where we experience slippage.

In other discussions regarding drag numbers, is the leverage applied with a spool full of line.  We know that as a fish runs and decreases the spool height drag numbers increase.  This is due to the fulcrum effect.

A proper test would be to fill the spool completely then apply pressure.  Now I wouldn't want to do this without a winder.  But in testing, first start with no knot or tape on the arbor fill and pull.  Then add different knots, tape, grease, winding pressure, etc, until satisfactory results are obtained.

Bill
#9
Fishing Tips and Techniques / Re: Return them right
Last post by Breadfan - Today at 03:45:36 PM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on May 06, 2024, 09:11:38 PM
Quote from: Breadfan on May 06, 2024, 01:39:24 PMThis is so good to see on my favorite forum! My daughter (I've spoken about her a few times on this site) is taking her PHD in Marine Biology at Florida and it is this program (Return em' Right) that is paying for her education and employees her. She is doing a lot of the statistics and research on this device. Very cool to see it come around with people I've associated with on the forum. She is one of my favorite humans to fish with and she uses a conventional reel, of course, because that's what she saw me fish with.  :fish
I wish to know more about the proper release depths and survival rates .
I'll get back to you on the depths. I think I remember 70% on the survival rates, I'll get more info on that too!
#10
Quote from: Bill B on Today at 03:21:47 PM55 and 55A are two different bearings with two different purposes.  55 is the stub shaft bearing that fits inside the spool and is necessary/important.  With out it the reel will be rough while reeling.  55A supports the spool.

With bearing 55 missing you wouldn't notice it during free spool but definitely would upon retrieve.  Rather expensive little bugger but totally necessary.   Bill
I've often wondered if that could be replaced by a bronze bushing/oilite bearing... I just hate supporting large loads on small bearings.