Reel Repair by Alan Tani

There are a few auto correction induced errors in my post above
"Grey plate" should be carbon drag plate. "circle" should be circlip.
Note the steel drag plate that I suspect is upside down is the one with the square hole in it.
Took me ages to work out what I had done wrong as it's very difficult to see the error until you take the drag plate assembly apart

I am guessing you took the drag assembly apart. I think you may have put the two steel drag plates that sandwich the carbon drag plate back together incorrectly ( they are held together by a thin circlip) this causes the carbon gray plate to be held tightly by the two steel plates as the gap between them is reduced.
Take them apart and you may find the the one that is held in place by the circle is upside down. You will see it fits much nicer when you turn it upside down and the carbon drag plate now has space to move giving free spool. ( You are not the first person to do this - I was that soldier)
Regards Gary

The 3-60 bridge was replaced with a 3-66 in newer reels. It's possible your 2/0 use lb60 gears.
I have seen an older lb66 with 60 main gears and other parts.

Quote from: slugmeister on April 11, 2024, 11:10:07 PMIf it's on Youtube, can you share the title of the video? We should be able to find it.


As a quick update on the 6000, I put in the carbon fiber drag washers with Cals purple grease. They are noticeably smoother than the original's, but they are nowhere near as smooth as a modern 5500 with a multi-disc stack. It will do the job for what I need at least.

It turns out I was incorrect. I took the 6000 out and got into a fair number of northern pike. The drag on this reel is really bad even with the upgraded drag washers. I tried my best to make it better, greased the heck out of it, tried different spring washers. Nothing helped. It seems these reels are kinda sorta ok with like 2-3 pounds of drag, but over that they are so herky jerky they are basically unusable. It made it almost impossible to properly set the hook. I ended up having to crank mine down to where the drag was not even a factor it was just locked up solid. Too bad, I like the reel otherwise. I guess that's why I got if for free though.

A clove hitch with four wraps will not slip if the wraps are going in the correct direction.  The more you pull the tighter it gets. 

Great post thanks. A friend of mine gave me three Avets to troubleshoot at, I was looking forward to it as I have never opened one. One seems to be seized. To my dismay I discovered that you need imperial Allen keys to open them so they  will unfortunately remain closed. Guess I won't be buying one in a rush.

Right now, you are just to the point of proving that thin braid does not have to slip once you are at exactly two wraps on the spool. I do this test (not to the point of breakage) on every spool fill.

 I think what is happening in your test is that the tighter you pull the line, the tighter the arbor knot cinches down.  BUT... things are going to change as you put more line on the spool.  Eventually,  the tension from pulling on the line  does not make it all the way to the arbor knot.  Plus compression from above is going to flatten out the braid on the bottom, making it more like a bushing of low friction plastic.  Probably plus some other stuff that I haven't even thought of.

I am confused a bit.  Are you asserting that line slippage doesn't happen or are you trying to ferret out when and why it happens? Or something else?

-J

I have other reels that I prefer using in the field, my 712 sits as a trophy in memory of that first biggun'. It's fun to use vintage reels too, all depends on your preference. Tight lines! 

   There is a method to my madness , I want you to try to duplicate my little test ,pull two wraps off the bolt .

3-60! Can i substitute 3-66 bridge?