Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Newell Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: ABIC on October 10, 2013, 08:21:59 PM

Title: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: ABIC on October 10, 2013, 08:21:59 PM
Hi, need ideas on how to tap out the long screws out.  It's not working out for me. I tried tapping out but the long screws won't move.  I sprayed WD 40 an let it sit a few days and still can't tap out.  Also 1 broke in the bar too.  Tried using a small screw driver to tap that out too.  No success yet.  Any help with suggestions would be great. 
Thanks,
ABIC
Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: Newell Nut on October 10, 2013, 09:15:57 PM
If I had it in my possession I would mix up a small tub with Salt X and drop everything in there overnight and I believe it would come apart okay. Send it to me if you like and I will fix it for you. Just pay the freight. I have the concentrate Salt X already. You broke one screw already? What model do you have?
Absolute worst case is put a Tiburon frame on it.
Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: DaBigOno on October 11, 2013, 11:39:08 AM
Looks like you have a broken one in each of the bars.

I agree about soaking it.  I'm sure many will chime in on what they use to soak rusted parts in.  Personally, I like to use PB Blast. 

Replacing it with a Tiburon frame or new bars is the simple way out, but might be worth the headache.

Please keep us posted
Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: Newell Nut on October 11, 2013, 03:12:50 PM
Since you have one or two broken that can't be replaced very easily, just go with the Tiburon frame. The only other choice is to buy and narrower spool and frame but that may cost more than the Tiburon frame. Carl had good intensions with that design to make a stronger frame but if not cleaned properly after use it fails and fails really bad. If the bars had been installed with heavy grease on them and the threads greased well they may have lasted a lot longer.

Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: ABIC on October 11, 2013, 06:59:21 PM
Thank you guys for the great ideas.  Here is an update.  Soaked in corrosion block because that's what I have for now.  Got two more pins out.  I still have I more that is broken in the side plate to go.  I will give it another day or so of soaking in corrosion block.  Hope it works out.  Thank you Newell Nut and Dabigono.  I was also fortunate enough to pick up a P550 frame and reel seat to replace. 
Thank you again.

ABIC.
Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: Newell Nut on October 11, 2013, 07:17:43 PM
With that P frame make sure you grease your screws and check them annually. Wash after each use and you should do fine. Also grease the end of the bar where the aluminum meets the SS ring. In the base part do the same thing.
Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: Bryan Young on October 11, 2013, 09:16:32 PM
You may want to try soaking the reel in hot water then flash dunking in ice water then back to hot water and see it that loosens it up due to the expansion contraction to break the rust/corrosion.

I'd keep the side plate from being immersed in the water as I don't know how it would fair.
Title: Re: Tapping long screws out.
Post by: jonathan.han on October 12, 2013, 07:36:59 PM
TSI 301 works better than PB Blaster, penetrating oil, wd-40, corrosion-x. The key is to get the metal to slide free from the salt buildup by seeping into the buildup. Jim Nomura has introduced us to a great product. It works better than any other attempt to free stuck screws. I recently had to drill out some screw stuck in a Tiagra 50 and wished I had just used TSI 301 after it took about almost an hour using extractors, a torch, and a drill. I just soak it once every ten minutes and work on something else and they usually just come out. Have not had any serious problems using it other than not adding a drop or two before removing problem screws