Reel Repair by Alan Tani

May be Joe have a better way to tight line to spool or may be the braid we use today is less slip than the original Spider wire . Just look at the Spider wire,it's really slippery

Carbon fiber splinters suck.  Hopefully you got all of it, cause it ain't gonna break down like a wood splinter.

-J

It's not mostly a lever thing. 

The arbor knot works by getting tighter as you pull on it.  Once you have enough line on the spool, any pulling that you are doing is not going to change the tension on the arbor knot.

Quote from: Gfish on Today at 04:46:56 PMSo, when the line slips on the the spool, it's a matter of the knot loosening up over time?

Ooh, somebody read the post before replying.  Bonus points!

Yes, that is half of the problem.

Alan keeps pointing out a loose pack on the spool for a reason.

If you pack the line loosely:

1. The loose wraps from loading under light tension is going to allow the arbor knot to release a little.  Or maybe the plastic under tension creeps (elongates via deformation over time),or a bit of both.

2.  With loose wraps, the coils are going to dig in and jam up when you start pulling hard now you have more of a plastic puck that wants spin than a spool of line that wants to unwind. The arbor knot betterbeb tight enough to hold on its current tension. It is not going to get any tighter...

It is useful to check if your arbor knot is holding, but if you want to see if you have avoided the line slipping on the spool problem, you need to fill the spool.

I could get into the coefficient of friction for UHMWPE on polished anodized aluminum multiplied by the clamping load from the arbor knot and so on and so forth, but nobody will be reading this deep into a post anyway...

-J

I have seen it happen mote than a few times.

My attachment method is a bit time consuming but they never slip.  I put 20' or so of Daceon on the spool, with a double clove hitch locked with a half hitch, then I tie or splice in my Spectra.

So, when the line slips on the the spool, it's a matter of the knot loosening up over time?

Jurelometer touched on it; keep in mind also what I will for want of a better description call the "lever".  Attempts to get the braid to slip with wraps directly on the spool would be akin to attempting to loosen a bolt using just your fingers.  But when you then use a wrench on the bolt, you now have introduced a lever the length of the wrench, and in the case of a spool, that lever is more a less the Radius of the line piled on the spool (for arguments sake say 2"?).  So if you pull on the line now, using the same amount of pulling force that you are applying with the "2 wrap test", you are actually multiplying the level of torque that is being seen.  Probably some pretty basic calculations; but I cut class that day to go fishing.....- john

what i meant was that the ones that actually do slip are usually pretty loose. 

Do a close inspection with a magnifier to see if the splinter was part of the rod or something that got stuck to it.  If the blank is dammaged I would not use it.  It is odd to have a linier flaw, most are radial.

Tried to imagine what that felt like and quickly gave-up. OUCH!!!!
Don't know enough about rods to say, but it don't sound good...

I got a couple rod blanks on the super cheap. Including a 9' carbon tape/graphite composite that I love the action on. Well it was super grimy so I was cleaning it with alcohol to see how much was scratches and how much was grime. Well on a downward stroke I got this splinter embedded so far into my hand I could barely grab the back of it. Almost an inch.

I was doing some test bends it seemed fine. Does this mean the blank is trash?