Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Newell Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: Newell Nut on July 01, 2014, 05:20:14 PM

Title: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: Newell Nut on July 01, 2014, 05:20:14 PM
Last week a friend asked me to find him a nice P220. He gave me a budget to work with so I found an early P220 that looked to be in near new condition with the original 4 stack drag system.

To service it properly it needed to be totally disassembled so that all the aluminum parts and screws could be lubricated properly as well as lubricating the underside of the SS rings.
When I removed the fillister head screw on the right it was tight but it came out and had a little electrolysis on it. When I started removing the one on the left it moved but sheared off. I have a spare base but I wanted to save this one. I have reassembled for the tutorial.
(http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/dwebb49/IMG_0232_zps68b13a81.jpg) (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/dwebb49/media/IMG_0232_zps68b13a81.jpg.html)

I decided to use my dremel with the carbide cone tip and very slowly cut a groove in the end of the screw below the surface of the aluminum base. I had to be very careful not to slip and damage the base threads. This took some patience and time.
(http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/dwebb49/IMG_0234_zps72b0dbd6.jpg) (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/dwebb49/media/IMG_0234_zps72b0dbd6.jpg.html)

Once I verified a little screw driver could get a little bite, I then heated the base with my torch. The heat did the trick and the screw came out.
(http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/dwebb49/IMG_0235_zpsb730c70d.jpg) (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/dwebb49/media/IMG_0235_zpsb730c70d.jpg.html)
(http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a526/dwebb49/IMG_0236_zps49644519.jpg) (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/dwebb49/media/IMG_0236_zps49644519.jpg.html)

After this I heated the front and rear post ends and the other side of the base and all the screws came out. Before reassembly I will grease all the holes and mating surfaces and install new fillister head screws on the inner rings. With a fresh water wash after use this little reel will be in my buddies grandson's hands one day.
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: johndtuttle on July 01, 2014, 05:32:27 PM
Strong work NN! :)

That seems to be a nasty spot right there with a trifecta of materials to promote corrosion as well as being in a hidden spot from direct rinsing.
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: harryk3616 on July 01, 2014, 05:55:50 PM
worked on outboards 45 years ago,  heating up the aluminum parts always worked getting stubborn screws and bolts out. nice job dwight
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: bluefish69 on July 01, 2014, 08:59:23 PM
After heating spray with WD-40 when hot. You make a capillary action & sucks in the WD-40  to ease removal. This is an old Plumber & Pipe Fitter trick.

Mike
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: Tightlines667 on July 01, 2014, 09:16:07 PM
Quote from: bluefish69 on July 01, 2014, 08:59:23 PM
After heating spray with WD-40 when hot. You make a capillary action & sucks in the WD-40  to ease removal. This is an old Plumber & Pipe Fitter trick.

Mike

Good tip!
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: Ron Jones on July 01, 2014, 09:21:04 PM
Just like fluxing pipes!
Ron
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: bluefish69 on July 01, 2014, 11:12:38 PM
Not really Ron.  Just do it outside there is a lot of smoke from the WD-40.

Mike
Title: Re: Saving an aluminum base
Post by: Ron Jones on July 01, 2014, 11:14:17 PM
OK,
I meant that when you melt flux capillary action fills the void with solder. I understand the actual process is different, but a similar phenomenon.
Ron