Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Quote from: jtwill98 on Today at 12:42:12 AMI sometimes borrow my wife's came saw for small items, more control. 

A came saw is used by stained glass shops to cut "Came" the aluminum framing around the stained glass.   

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

My God that top one looks so awesome if it'll cut aluminum and brass. I don't see a price on that one though. But the bottom one is reasonable

The old boat rods , some had ferrules and some did not . They were glued into the reel seats like the butt was  .  This one is ferruled

Quote from: Cor on May 28, 2024, 08:31:33 PMI Make jigs from solid pieces of PVC or various scrap plastic.    I once made jig for my circular bench saw to hold them in place while cutting but I am finding that too dangerous to cut small items with that machine.

The problem is the tight angle that needs to be cut, it varies but is around 20° and the plugs are around 16 cm long.

I was thinking of a Mitre saw something like this https://www.toolcraft.co.za/products/festool-kapex-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-ks-60-e-set-1
But that one is a bit expensive $1 400 for the purpose I need it.   It is not high volume work, nor is  extremely accurate cutting required.   It needs to cut 4 or 8 sides at nearly the same angles.  It could even be a hand tool.

Anyone know of something that I could use that's simple to use, and safe.   Without fingers I won't be able to cast a conventional reel well.

Here's a photo of one of the jigs and of past Saturdays catch.   We caught about 40 fish in 2 hours between 8 anglers.   

When you say circular bench saw , is that a table saw or a miter saw ?  A picture will help , also one of the jig you are using now .   I assume you rip stock to width first ,than make the 20 degree cuts after.
      Screw eyes on both ends , or do you through hole and wire in .   Or is it two halves glued together  with a kerf cut for the wire .    I would use a jig with a swing arm to make the cuts with a hold down . The picture of the jig you have looks 4 sided .  If you want to do 8 sides you will have to make another swingarm that has two angles to support the stock , so you can safely cut it .
    Are the jigs that you make all the same length ?

Is the steel magnetic?

Ok, I've been asked, how can I tell if the trim rings are steel ?

The backside of the steel rings have no shine, just a dull grey tint. Here's a comparison of the chromed brass vs the steel. The one on the left is chromed brass, the other 2 are steel....and yes, this is a USA made 113h

only $22 at Mystic parts

I sometimes borrow my wife's came saw for small items, more control. 

A came saw is used by stained glass shops to cut "Came" the aluminum framing around the stained glass.   

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

Quote from: Reeltyme on May 28, 2024, 01:55:25 PMChecked this morning, no gots on the 650 bail. I have an 850 bail. Sorry.

No worries. Thx for the offer.  I will figure it out.  Just a matter of pride trying to get the old reel working. Might through some line on it and use it for nostalgia

I'm with you Cornelius.  The trick is getting a fixture to hold the part safely, and the larger/faster/more powerful the tool, the stronger the the fixture has to be.

A couple ideas:

For small stuff in plastic like that, I am partial to using a router with the material screwed onto a pattern.  I like using a flush trim bit  (guide on the bottom) with the pattern underneath the part.  I usually 3D print the patterns and any fixtures needed to hold the part, but reckon that you can do something similar  by hand.

I assume you are making the jig in two halves so that you can through wire them.  I can picture one or two fixtures, depending on the shape.  Secure the material to the pattern or fixture past the ends of
the part, and cut the ends off after shaping.  Or something like that.

A router might ight be overkill though, as these are all straight cuts.

If you are not making that many, cutting plastic with a handsaw is not much work,  and if the fixture holding the part fails, it is not so terrifying.  Something that clamps onto a hand miter saw or even a wholem iterbox contraption made from some scrap wood. 

Power miter saws kinda scare me on small parts.  They are really made for cutting parts off of longer stock, and the wood cutting miter saws run at very high RPMs. In my eyes, it would be tougher to make a safe fixture setup with a power miter saw than a table saw.  But both would require a very secure fixture.

Sometimes the best tool for the job is not a power tool.  But the reccomendation for a scroll saw with the right blade doesn't sound too bad either.

-J

A Festool Kapex is the most expensive miter saw out there. A Dewalt, Makita or Milwaukee would be much cheaper. A belt sander would clean up that jig better than a saw!