Post questions about this reel in this thread
Probably, one of the most common questions asked about vintage Squidder 140's is how their Auto-reverse dogs are sprung. I would think most people willing to open and repair their own reels are familiar with the little coil spring mounted into the short dog and sitting against the molded in piece of Bakelite in the Squidder 140 head plate. That is not the case with early, especially pre-war Squidders. Exactly when the change over to the coil spring happened I do not know yet. Maybe someone here can post that piece of info. Here is how pre-war Squiderr's are made (no comments necessary on the muddy plate, it is now clean)
(http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo244/m3040c/Penn%20Squidder/1941%20Squidder%20internals%20007%20466%20x%20460_zps8itiprbc.jpg)
Notice the dog itself is longer than a modern Squidder dog.
Usually the question people have is how do they balance that little coil spring against the post provided by Penn in the head plate? The answer is, you do not.
Anyone have any information about this squidder 140? I've never seen one in this color before. I'm curious about it's age.
Quote from: FatTuna on April 20, 2016, 10:42:43 PM
Anyone have any information about this squidder 140? I've never seen one in this color before. I'm curious about it's age.
It's a red Squidder. I've got one. I think they're relatively common. I hope they're not :). Yours was likely a brighter red and may clean up to that Jigmaster red color with a little work. It's a post-1950 numbered reel. The Squidder existed virtually unchanged during it's long production run. Without any other catalog or box information I don't know if anyone can get any closer than that for you. I can't. They didn't change the design (except for offering different spools) the whole time the reel was in production except that first year Squidders are unique with their open foot stamped with yardage, other than that I think the model changed little if at all through the years. There were a lot of after-market variations available, but none apply to this reel of yours.
Thanks Sid. I was thinking the same thing about the color being faded. I'll see what some of that Eagle One Neverdull can do to brighten her up.
What is the small lever on my Squidder 140L for and when casting what position should it be on "Off or ON"? Thanks RJ
Quote from: mccandrj on October 08, 2016, 08:51:45 PM
What is the small lever on my Squidder 140L for and when casting what position should it be on "Off or ON"? Thanks RJ
That small lever disengages the anti reverse dog to turn the reel into direct drive, also know as knuckle buster, cause handle will turn as it lets out line, or as a fish takes line.
You definitely do not want the handle spinning while casting.
Ted
So, the setting would be OFF?
QuoteSo, the setting would be OFF?
No, the setting should be on.
Got it! Thanks RJ
When you disengage the freespool lever the spool spins independently from the pinion (only the spool and bearings will be in motion) and will do so for casting regardless of the position of the smaller eccentric lever, which engages the antireverse mechanism (a dog that engages a ratchet when "on"), so in the "off" position it does not do so and the handle can be cranked in reverse to let line out. You want the antireverse engaged when you cast (I presume) so that you will have drag available immediately after the cast. With the A/R disengaged, as Ted said, you will have a knucklebuster, which got that name for a reason :).
Quote from: mccandrj on October 08, 2016, 08:51:45 PM
What is the small lever on my Squidder 140L for and when casting what position should it be on "Off or ON"? Thanks RJ
Old post but... I like to use that setting on my Squidders when chunking bait from the beach. If I am spiking the rod and walking away from it, I need to leave the reel in such a way that a big fish can't pull the whole rod into the surf. After casting the bait clicker is turned on. Sometimes it is sufficient to turn on free-spool with the clicker, but if the current or waves are too strong (they would easily take line), I turn free-spool off, and turn on "direct drive" With the direct drive on, there is more resistance against current than in free-spool, and a big fish can run a bit without pulling the rod into the surf.
??? ??? ??? ??? ???
If you're going to walk away it is safer to engage the dog, put it in gear and back off on the drag.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on October 12, 2016, 07:28:08 PM
If you're going to walk away it is safer to engage the dog, put it in gear and back off on the drag.
-steve
I don't understand why setting the drag very loose would be better. I'm thinking of big bluefish or stripers, not huge sharks (NJ not FL). A few seconds after the fish starts peeling line off, I'm picking up the rod. The drag is loose enough so that I could grab and stop the spinning handle. I use conventionals most of the time for chunking but if I happen to be using a spinner, then, sure, the drag needs to be loosened.
Please educate me... what else would you use that setting for?
Back reeling when driftfishing flounder.
Quote from: Penn Chronology on April 09, 2016, 05:37:00 PM
Probably, one of the most common questions asked about vintage Squidder 140's is how their Auto-reverse dogs are sprung. I would think most people willing to open and repair their own reels are familiar with the little coil spring mounted into the short dog and sitting against the molded in piece of Bakelite in the Squidder 140 head plate. That is not the case with early, especially pre-war Squidders. Exactly when the change over to the coil spring happened I do not know yet. Maybe someone here can post that piece of info. Here is how pre-war Squiderr's are made (no comments necessary on the muddy plate, it is now clean)
(http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo244/m3040c/Penn%20Squidder/1941%20Squidder%20internals%20007%20466%20x%20460_zps8itiprbc.jpg)
Notice the dog itself is longer than a modern Squidder dog.
Usually the question people have is how do they balance that little coil spring against the post provided by Penn in the head plate? The answer is, you do not.
Can anyone advise the part number of the leaf style AR spring shown above? Same as beachmaster?
QuoteCan anyone advise the part number of the leaf style AR spring shown above? Same as beachmaster?
Penn part numbers crudely began in the late 1940's. I believe the part numbering system first catalog year was 1949 and that little leaf spring was numbered 14-60 for a Penn Squidder 140, basically the same leaf spring used in the Long Beach 60 (that number call out for the 140 was only used in 1949), making it a very obsolete part number for a Squidder and only used for one year. In 1950 the same leaf spring part number was 14-140.
In 1951 Penn introduced the coil spring anti-reverse for the Squidder, Part Number 14C-140; but, continued to offer the leaf spring in the parts department for many years under the old 14-140 part number.
I really doubt that too many of these 14-140 leaf springs are still available in part houses. You need to find parts reels and save them.
It's your call Decker. The speed of the strike is more important than the size of the fish. It is possible to backlash a reel with the clicker on. It is even easier to backlash a reel with the dog disengaged because the moving gears and handle provide more momentum than the moving spool alone.
I never found a use for the disengaging dog. Some guys use it to let a fish run before setting the hook. With a fish running, engaging the dog puts less stress on the gears than engaging the pinion. But, if you ever let the handle get away from you have to regain control of the handle before you can reach under with your finger to engage the dog. Too much to do and think about in a panic situation.
The leaf springs would get soft and have to be replaced. In a pinch you can flip them over and bend it in the other direction. A sliver cut out of a tin can will work until it rusts. A sliver of stainless shim stock would be better. The 209 or 309 leaf spring may be about the same size but I don't have any to look at.
I think that switching to a coiled spring that small was a bad idea because they are just too easy to loose. They used to be called roach turds. The coiled springs were probably made of monel (non-magnetic, non-corroding and dark grey color). Instead of a coiled spring, perhaps they could have switched to a monel leaf spring to get more tensile strength while keeping the corrosion resistance and a manageable size.
-steve
Darren (Shark Hunter) has been making leaf springs out of old windshield wiper blades, if you dis-assemble the blade you can find 1-2 stainless steel blades inside.... he cutsthem to length and width.....I just replaced my ww blades and got 2 19" pieces to work with.....Bill
QuoteDarren (Shark Hunter) has been making leaf springs out of old windshield wiper blades, if you dis-assemble the blade you can find 1-2 stainless steel blades inside.... he cutsthem to length and width.....I just replaced my ww blades and got 2 19" pieces to work with.....Bill
That is the best idea I have heard so far. Fantastic....
I just checked and ordered a few from Scott's. They are still available under the number 14-155 ; but , they are brass, not stainless.
Quote from: oc1 on October 13, 2016, 10:52:39 AM
...
I think that switching to a coiled spring that small was a bad idea because they are just too easy to loose. They used to be called roach turds. The coiled springs were probably made of monel (non-magnetic, non-corroding and dark grey color). Instead of a coiled spring, perhaps they could have switched to a monel leaf spring to get more tensile strength while keeping the corrosion resistance and a manageable size.
-steve
And the difficulty of drilling the receiving hole for the spring in the dog was, I believe, what made Keta throw up his hands at fabricating stainless dogs for the Squidders. Isn't that right, Lee?
--Mike
Quote from: Penn Chronology on October 13, 2016, 08:21:01 PM
QuoteDarren (Shark Hunter) has been making leaf springs out of old windshield wiper blades, if you dis-assemble the blade you can find 1-2 stainless steel blades inside.... he cuts them to length and width.....I just replaced my ww blades and got 2 19" pieces to work with.....Bill
That is the best idea I have heard so far. Fantastic....
I believe that some work has to be done to get these SS strips thin enough to be flexible enough to be useful. I think that as they come they are too thick and too stiff. I am about to harvest some myself, I've had the replacement wiper blades in the garage for about two weeks, it just hasn't come to the top of the list yet...
Sid
Those wiper spines are useful for a lot of stuff. When you grind it down do so slowly so it doesn't heat up and loose the temper. You can have a life time supply of stainless shim stock for about the price of a pair of wipers.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=14l8c9o (http://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=14l8c9o)
-steve
Here is a decent 100% correct late 1945/early 46 squidder. The smaller size coin edge counterbalance were used on some of these blades, likely to use up old stock. The spool is the post war design version. No yardage under the foot, just blank like it should be for post war and prior to 1950
Ted
Fantastic reel Ted...ya don't see many black handle knobs from that era...tops! 8)
It may be a very dark green knob. I'll take a pic with a flash and find out fur certain.
My first Squidder.
It's in pretty good condition, this is how I received it, yet to tear it down and clean it up.
From the book, it looks like it's a first year 39.
As mentioned, it's my first Squidder and They are quite an impressive reel I must say, comparing to my other pre war ones.
Looking forward to stripping it down for a clean up and looking at the differences to my other reels.
Col
QuoteMy first Squidder.
It's in pretty good condition, this is how I received it, yet to tear it down and clean it up.
From the book, it looks like it's a first year 39.
As mentioned, it's my first Squidder and They are quite an impressive reel I must say, comparing to my other pre war ones.
Looking forward to stripping it down for a clean up and looking at the differences to my other reels.
Great collectible. I feel Squidders are still great fishing reels; but, not the one you have pictured. That is a fine, 1939 survivor. Great find. First year models are not easy to get. Many of them have had some of their original parts changed. Yours seems to be all original and very nice condition. Those original Bakelite spools and linen line stamped stands give the reel a very antique look
Hi Mike,
No, definitely no fishing with this one, A strip down and clean, then on the display shelf ( well, I have to get a decent display case sorted)
But, this reel is very interesting to me, I could easily see myself getting a later model one and adding it to my arsenal on the boat, along with
my senators, it does look well up to the task !
And I must say, for a design this old and having no real other major cosmetic changes in all those years, just that in itself shows what a winner this reel was for Penn.........
Col
huh......hmmm so that's how it goes ! haha belive it or not I got the other spring to balance on that post! and it seems to be working! for how long ...who knows! im gonna put the correct spring in there ! thanks for the post!
QuoteAnd I must say, for a design this old and having no real other major cosmetic changes in all those years, just that in itself shows what a winner this reel was for Penn.........
In my humble opinion, the Squidder 140 is the greatest production conventional surf casting reel ever made.
Quotehuh......hmmm so that's how it goes ! haha belive it or not I got the other spring to balance on that post! and it seems to be working! for how long ...who knows! im gonna put the correct spring in there ! thanks for the post!
I have also done that. It will work but also can fail at any time.
im sure mine will work perfect ,until that fish of a lifetime !!!!!!!!!!!! haha thanks again