I got 2 reels in parts today. One is a 113h that, as it turns out, has all parts except the dog spring. Only problem is the pinion is stuck. Got it soaking in PB Blaster for the night. 2nd reel is a 320 GTi. Haven't taken a full inventory of the parts but I did find the left side bearing is stuck to the spool. Should this get the same treatment as the pinion? An overnight soak?
ah, this one is easy. put the bearing in vise or just vise grips and put on a pair of safety glasses. crush the outside race and duck so you don't get hit with shrapnel. clean away any left over fragments and now you can grab the inside race. twist it back and forth until it gives and you can twist it off. often it's the only way. :-\
So no way to save the bearing? The bearing turns good but I can't get it off to reassemble. If I gotta crush it that's fine. I'm good at destroying things.
you can try to wiggle or pry on the outside race, but you'll damage the bearing. if you pry undermeath, you'll damage the white nylon gear. yeah, the bearing is toast. :-\
Thanks Alan! I guess the good news is the reel was free so $15 isn't too bad if that's all I gotta get. Are these decent reels? Never had a newer one like this.
Look very closely at the idler gear. It is often damaged when the spool comes out with the end bearing attached.
The 320 is a workhorse, since you have a 113H apart right now, compare the internal parts and you will see they are nearly identical...I have 2 that I use for deep drops for rock cod, and as loaners too. The only short coming I see with them is the bearings, they seem to ALWAYS be worse for the wear. But regular maintenance will solve that issue....Bill
Both excellent in their intended application, certainly worth a few bucks to get up and running. 113H is about 125 new.
Thanks for all the info! Well, like Alan said, that bearing shattered with a little squeeze of some channel locks. I looked at the idler and it seems OK. What are the symptoms of a bad idler? Levelwind don't work I suppose. All I need for the 320 is the bearing, thrust washer (I lost), lower bridge screw and drags. It had 2 CF and 3 teflon drags. Is that common to mix and match? The 113H turned out good. Coaxed the pinion off after the all night soak, cleaned lubed and replaced the drags and she's good to go. Even found the original dog spring when I was cleaning up.
I have yet to buy a used conventional reel with ballbearings that are still good. Either very rough or frozen by corrosion and difficult or impossible to remove from the cups(without destroying the cup). Tells me that I have to really keep up on maintenance.
The stock 113H for example: not hard to clean & lube the tailplate ball bearing, it unscrews from the outside, most people just don't do it, I guess. Saltwater gets in and probably just sits there. But head-plate ballbearing maintenance requires removing the bridge, eccentric parts and pinion to properly accesss, clean and lube that one. Right now Mystic Penn parts, dosen't have the replacement bearings/cups. Not hard to see why.
Never have a problem with bushing reels.
If the idler gear is completely trashed, the level wind won't move. More likely in your case, a tooth or two on the idler gear is slightly deformed and you'll notice slight ticking when you spin the spool. That won't get better over time...
for me works fine a slightly modified Wiper Arm Puller.
The tip removed and the tip of the thread rod filed smaller.
Also an excellent helper to pull off stuck ball bearings and line roller from the line roller support.
www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B08RN2Z2Y7/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=wiper+arm+removal+tool&qid=1620481848&sr=8-9
Thanks for the tip Wolli! 8)