I am interested in learning more about fine tuning spinning reels - in this case, shimming the main-gear.
So I devised a setup to measure the clearance between the pinion and the main-gear on a Stella 10,000 SW.
The clearance with all shims removed measures 0.71mm.
The actual shim stack measured 0.64mm. giving a shimmed clearance of 0.07mm.
With this shim stack installed there is negligible backlash at the handle suggesting that this is the optimal stack size.
Has anyone else experimented with this or have any pertinent suggestions?
~
can't help, but really glad you started this discussion - THANK YOU!!!
despite some comfort w/ persnickety spinners w/ way too many parts, I just loathe playing w/ shims & I'm horrible at it... the more I can learn by reading, as opposed to trial & error, the better
THANK YOU, AGAIN!!!
Now you're getting a bit bloody scientific Brett, but you have made me ask the question "where did I put my dial indicator?"
Has it had any effect on the pinion mesh and oscillation feel?
Quote from: ReelClean on February 26, 2018, 08:51:33 AM
Now you're getting a bit bloody scientific Brett, but you have made me ask the question "where did I put my dial indicator?"
Has it had any effect on the pinion mesh and oscillation feel?
Lol!
This kinda thing is a well established science when it comes to automotive differentials.
I just wonder how reel manufacturers determine correct tolerances in spinning reels.
I tried removing a 0.05mm (0.002") shim but this resulted in a noticeable increase in handle backlash.
The standard shim stack resulted in a calculated clearance of 0.07mm (0.00276") so I reckon that 2-3 thou is probably acceptable clearance parameters in this case.
Just replying to this thread helps me to evaluate tests I have done so far.
Maybe if I screw around enough, I will get some idea of how things work in the reel world?
~
I've shimmed a few spinners, mainly Okuma. I did it through trial and error - I have a dial gauge but never thought to use it Doh!
From memory most of the shims were approx. .25-.5mm - I used to punch them from teflon - because I had a couple of sheets.
Only one reel caused problems. It was shimmed in the UK in winter. Then it was taken to Thailand (their summer) I could barely turn the handle! I had over-shimmed it. I removed the shim and it was fine.
I'll try measuring the actual play next time with my dial gauge.
Quote from: exp2000 l on February 26, 2018, 11:30:03 AM
just wonder how reel manufacturers determine correct tolerances in spinning reels.
The answer is they dont. At least not to the level your striving for.
Sure you know this but what doing will greatly increase the life on the gears. While also giving a better feel to the reel.
Most likely more so on mid level reels than the higher end ones... Jeff
Edited by Sid Lehr: was only missing a "["
Dont know what happened with that post.
Edit by Sid Lehr: I fixed it. Was missing a [
Quote from: Rivverrat on February 26, 2018, 12:01:18 PM
The answer is they dont. At least not to the level your striving for.
Sure you know this but what doing will greatly increase the life on the gears. While also giving a better feel to the reel.
Most likely more so on mid level reels than the higher end ones... Jeff
I just tested a second ST10000SW which is factory original (true story) and it's clearance was 0.08mm = 0.003".
I will also service this one in due course.
The inclusion of a 0.002" shim suggests that manufacturers do go to considerable lengths in precision assembly on their flagship reels.
At the other extreme we have what I call imitation reels - the $50 jobs!. I am sure that these do not receive the same attention.
Still, it is good to have something to work from.
BTW, really like your avatar despite it's curious incongruity with your username ;)
~
Not into Shimano...especially those, I'm getting a headache just from listening to you guys ;D.
Not quite sure what you are trying to get at and got me interested a little. Are you talking gear engagement with the pinion?
Please excuse my ignorance on this.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 26, 2018, 12:52:59 PM
Not into Shimano...especially those, I'm getting a headache just from listening to you guys ;D.
Not quite sure what you are trying to get at and got me interested a little. Are you talking gear engagement with the pinion?
Please excuse my ignorance on this.
Sal
Yep, that's exactly right Sal.
Sometimes when you swap out the pinion/main-gear set in a reel, or even just re-seating the original components you can upset the tolerances turning your reel into a coffee grinder. Removing a shim will solve this problem by restoring sufficient clearance so that the gears will no longer bind up.
But exactly what are the ideal parameters you should aim for?
~
Brett keep on experimenting :)
Quote from: exp2000 on February 26, 2018, 01:22:56 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 26, 2018, 12:52:59 PM
Not into Shimano...especially those, I'm getting a headache just from listening to you guys ;D.
Not quite sure what you are trying to get at and got me interested a little. Are you talking gear engagement with the pinion?
Please excuse my ignorance on this.
Sal
Yep, that's exactly right Sal.
Sometimes when you swap out the pinion/main-gear set in a reel, or even just re-seating the original components you can upset the tolerances turning your reel into a coffee grinder. Removing a shim will solve this problem by restoring sufficient clearance so that the gears will no longer bind up.
But exactly what are the ideal parameters you should aim for?
~
Aah...takes me a while but will eventually get there :), thanks Brett!
Not sure if it would be related to these reel, but I'm thinking why not! so, here goes my thought.
I'll mention my wagon and bricks ;D
If you test the gears by just turning the handle on that reel while having the line unattached and you'll repeat that same test while dragging a wagon at its max drag, the end results should vary.
I'm no engineer...far from it, I'm just a general contractor.
I've done some personal tests on gear in the past and noticed even though everything was running smooth on some, when applying drag at max a little at a time, the gears actually slipped... not shredded, but slipped.
What I'm trying to say, there are other parts to take into consideration, not sure how much of it comes into play, but there has to be some flexing with the bushings, bearings and shafts, if there was 0 flexing, the parts wouldn't rotate.
Probably all this doesn't make any sense, but wanted see if you had any thoughts on it.
Thank you for doing these tests for us, they're very interesting.
Sal
I'm familiar with the "coffee grinder" effect...I just shimmed a Mitchell 301 to get rid of this problem. Many times the stock shims get lost in a glob of old grease. I once trashed a differential in a '75 Impala by not properly aligning a ring and pinion. This is the same principal, just on a much smaller and less critical level. 8)
Interesting info.
I always wondered if there was a way to measure, or at least perceive, the clearance on a Mitchell 300-type reel. The problem is that the pinion gear that drives the rotor gear runs off the main gear. So, even if you feel clearance when you move the handle in and out, that may just be the main gear sliding back and forth on the gear on the back side of the pinion gear, which says nothing about the clearance between the pinion and the rotor gear.
Frank
You guys are getting way to precise for this old guy. As long as it spins freely, doesn't bind up under stress and doesn't have excessive play or wobble I figure it's good to go. 8) But then I refuse to use or service any spinner that incorporates an oscillation worm gear. ::)
Quote from: exp2000 on February 26, 2018, 12:20:13 PM
The inclusion of a 0.002" shim suggests that manufacturers do go to considerable lengths in precision assembly on their flagship reels.
Yes, at the level of reel your handeling here I would hope there would be some evidence of effort put forth regarding the topic.
Based on past experience I'm not a fan of these either. However I am always up for learning more about the present made models & many people dissagree with my thoughts on these reels & are happy with them for
years... Jeff
Have you got any prussian blue Brett? I have often thought it would be interesting to set up a reel and check the pattern on the gears like you do in a diff, then play with the shims on the pinion and main gears and see the effect. I guess you would be looking for a similar pattern to what you set up in a diff, but maybe on the other side due to the driven gears being reversed?
Quote from: ReelClean on February 27, 2018, 12:01:59 AM
Have you got any prussian blue Brett? I have often thought it would be interesting to set up a reel and check the pattern on the gears like you do in a diff, then play with the shims on the pinion and main gears and see the effect. I guess you would be looking for a similar pattern to what you set up in a diff, but maybe on the other side due to the driven gears being reversed?
Nah! Haven,t played with the blue stuff since I was a kid lol.
I just like to buy bargain tools these days but don't actually do much work unless I really have to.
But I just converted a garage sale discount high end mig to weld aluminum. That should be fun to play with for a while:)
~
Quote from: exp2000 on February 28, 2018, 12:53:31 AM
Quote from: ReelClean on February 27, 2018, 12:01:59 AM
Have you got any prussian blue Brett? I have often thought it would be interesting to set up a reel and check the pattern on the gears like you do in a diff, then play with the shims on the pinion and main gears and see the effect. I guess you would be looking for a similar pattern to what you set up in a diff, but maybe on the other side due to the driven gears being reversed?
Nah! Haven,t played with the blue stuff since I was a kid lol.
I just like to buy bargain tools these days but don't actually do much work unless I really have to.
But I just converted a garage sale discount high end mig to weld aluminum. That should be fun to play with for a while:)
~
Got enough amps to play with? Ally luuurvs the heat! :-D
Excuse meh, but what is a "shim" and can anyone post a picture of it?
Quote from: Midway Tommy on February 26, 2018, 05:08:09 PM
You guys are getting way to precise for this old guy. As long as it spins freely, doesn't bind up under stress and doesn't have excessive play or wobble I figure it's good to go. 8) But then I refuse to use or service any spinner that incorporates an oscillation worm gear. ::)
What is a "worm gear"?
Quote from: Rivverrat on March 03, 2018, 02:19:09 AM
It s the verticle gear that is powered by your hand on the handle through a regular gear & connects to & spinns the spool. It would be the gear numbered 2 in the first pic below... Jeff
Excuse me, but what reel is this? Isnt part 2 the pinion gear? Need to find and study the reel schematics....
Quote from: Rivverrat on March 03, 2018, 02:35:00 AM
be one way to look at or describe it as kind of a pinion gear. Pinion & worm gear do the same thing... The first real is a DAM Quick the other is an older model Cardinal... Jeff
And.......an oscillation worm gear is a completely different animal, altogether. It makes the spool oscillate/reciprocate in and out and has a similar look to a casting/conventional reel level wind gear.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on March 03, 2018, 04:07:19 AM
And.......an oscillation worm gear is a completely different animal, altogether. It makes the spool oscillate/reciprocate in and out and has a similar look to a casting/conventional reel level wind gear.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on February 26, 2018, 05:08:09 PM
...But then I refuse to use or service any spinner that incorporates an oscillation worm gear. ::)
a bit persnickety, in modern reels, but there's nothing better for braid-worthy line lay
are you saying you'd even turn down a Suveran, that got rid of all the fiddly bits?
(yeah I know where Jeff got those wrong photos... should have scrolled down a bit to the right one ;) )
TOP: worm oscillation
BOTTOM: worm drive
Quote from: Rivverrat on March 03, 2018, 05:09:45 AM
Of course your correct. Just attempting to keep it simple not knowing the individual & what level their at with things... Jeff
Me too, I was only trying to help Beaker understand there are different worm gears.
Quotea bit persnickety, in modern reels, but there's nothing better for braid-worthy line lay
are you saying you'd even turn down a Suveran, that got rid of all the fiddly bits?
Suveran would be the only one, and I still wouldn't be sold on it because it doesn't have a rear drag. Some people like front drags but I'm not one of them, and, other than the Suveran, I wouldn't buy any of the newer reels with that design. Just me being bull headed, I guess, but I don't like that design and I never use braid.
perfectly understandable, to me... as the ole' ditty goes:
when I was 5, I just wanted to catch A FISH
when I was 25, I wanted to catch MORE/BIGGER fish
now, that I'm a crotchety, cantankerous 50+
I want to catch fish, THE WAY I want to catch fish
Quote from: philaroman on March 03, 2018, 08:21:38 AM
perfectly understandable, to me... as the ole' ditty goes:
when I was 5, I just wanted to catch A FISH
when I was 25, I wanted to catch MORE/BIGGER fish
now, that I'm a crotchety, cantankerous 50+
I want to catch fish, THE WAY I want to catch fish
You pretty much nailed it but forgot one little phrase..........
now, that I'm a crotchety, cantankerous 50+,
and caught more fish than I ever thought possible,
I want to catch fish,
THE WAY I want to catch fish ;D
I've never measured them like you're doing, but have often needed to add or remove shims with replacement gears or just to remove excess slack. Now, one thing I noticed in my shop years ago was a strange phenomenon of a reel that was smooth before service becoming rough after service. Some techs back then told me they thought the gears just needed to reseat themselves and would smooth up over time. That wasn't acceptable for me to do with customers reels. I either needed to figure a way to be sure the reels would be at least the same smoothness after service as before, if not better, or just quit doing spinning reels altogether. Although it didn't seem to make any sense to me, it seemed that the gears in a well used spinning reel had become used to matching up with each other and if you put them back in a different configuration, then they would be rough. This didn't make sense because they don't have an even ratio so they shouldn't be hitting the same teeth on each revolution. Never the less, I saw it to many times to ignore. I started devising a way to mark the gears to put them back exactly like they were. I would use an awl to make a scratch on one flat side of the pinion gear. I would then impale the drive gear with a pointed dowel to hold it in place as I lift off the side cover to keep it meshed with the pinion. I would then make a mark on the drive gear that I could line it back up with later. When putting back together I would turn the pinion up to the side that was marked and then line the drive up with it's mark and then put them together. Once I started doing that I have never had a reel turn out rougher after service than before. The only answer that makes any sense to me is that the gears do wear in a matching pattern but it's a pattern that repeats itself several times depending on the ratio. Itseems that if the ratio is 5 to 1 then there will be 5 perfect matching paterns to the pinion gear. Gettting even one tooth off of that pattern cam cause the reel to be rough. If any of you engineer guys have thoughts on this I would love to hear them.
Tom expressed his distaste for
oscillation worm gears & was asked what it is:
Quote from: Reel Beaker on March 03, 2018, 01:45:22 AM
Quote from: Midway Tommy on February 26, 2018, 05:08:09 PM
...But then I refuse to use or service any spinner that incorporates an oscillation worm gear. ::)
What is a "worm gear"?
You offered examples of
main drive worm gears -- apples & oranges... drastically different parts in both, function & appearance -- same name. I'm sure you meant to be helpful, but your reply creates confusion, rather than "clearly shows & answers the question asked". Furthermore, the photos you used are straight from the preamble to the AH Suveran review http://www.alanhawk.com/reviews/suv4.html (http://www.alanhawk.com/reviews/suv4.html) which plainly shows the oscillation worm further on, then both parts next to each other (which is the photo I added)
No animosity: you meant well, you rushed, you got it wrong -- it's a nomenclature issue.
Quote from: Pro Reel on March 03, 2018, 03:57:20 PM
I've never measured them like you're doing, but have often needed to add or remove shims with replacement gears or just to remove excess slack. Now, one thing I noticed in my shop years ago was a strange phenomenon of a reel that was smooth before service becoming rough after service. Some techs back then told me they thought the gears just needed to reseat themselves and would smooth up over time. That wasn't acceptable for me to do with customers reels. I either needed to figure a way to be sure the reels would be at least the same smoothness after service as before, if not better, or just quit doing spinning reels altogether. Although it didn't seem to make any sense to me, it seemed that the gears in a well used spinning reel had become used to matching up with each other and if you put them back in a different configuration, then they would be rough. This didn't make sense because they don't have an even ratio so they shouldn't be hitting the same teeth on each revolution. Never the less, I saw it to many times to ignore. I started devising a way to mark the gears to put them back exactly like they were.
I would use an awl to make a scratch on one flat side of the pinion gear. I would then impale the drive gear with a pointed dowel to hold it in place as I lift off the side cover to keep it meshed with the pinion. I would then make a mark on the drive gear that I could line it back up with later. When putting back together I would turn the pinion up to the side that was marked and then line the drive up with it's mark and then put them together.
Once I started doing that I have never had a reel turn out rougher after service than before. The only answer that makes any sense to me is that the gears do wear in a matching pattern but it's a pattern that repeats itself several times depending on the ratio. It seems that if the ratio is 5 to 1 then there will be 5 perfect matching patterns to the pinion gear. Getting even one tooth off of that pattern cam cause the reel to be rough. If any of you engineer guys have thoughts on this I would love to hear them.
Thank you so much for posting this. It's like you are reading my mind.
Yet I have only been able to find oblique references regarding this problem on the internet.
The silence was deafening so you cannot imagine how much I appreciate your well documented experience.
My research and adaptive procedures and even my attititude mirrors your own
exactly and this issue is the true reason for my original post.
To elaborate any further on the matter would only mean regurgitating your original post.
Suffice it to again say thank you for bringing this issue into the light.
Kudos Sir, you are a true spinning reel engineer and a great service technician.
~
Just a little more detail on how I take a spin reel apart. After removing the handle, the first step is to remove the rotor. At that point I can see enough of the pinion to make a scratch mark on one side. I leave whatever parts that hold the pinion in place there. I then move to removing the side plate. Take off any rear covers etc. Then remove all but one side plate screw. Turn the pinion so it's mark faces up, take my 1/4 inch wood dowel sharpened in pencil sharpener and stick it through the handle hole on the side cover and into the drive gear. I then carefully remove the last screw, hold the dowel tight and lift the cover off. You have to do this in a manner that keeps the teeth of both gears meshed together. I then mark the front of the main gear and put a matching scratch in the frame that will line it up. After that take everything else apart. Line the marks up when reassembling and it will be at least the same smoothness as before. Every once in a while I'll mess up and let the pinion slide forward or the drive gear lift up and turn because I got ahead of myself and took something off before I was ready. That's the only time I get one that isn't as smooth as before now. I have learned to be very careful until I have both gears marked.
I still don't understand how it does it, I just know that it does.
Yes it does.....
I haven't found that to be the case, though, with a pinion worm gear and main gear combination similar to Jeff's second example. I have heard, and found, that a grease/oil coating forms on the gears, bearing and bushings, that when removed by degreasing, requires a little time for a new coating to form that will reduce some of the metal-on-metal noise.
Whats being described here is the same thing dealt with a lot of times regarding ring & pinions. I'm not saying this is the situation in every case. I do know it happens. When dealing with mass produced gears there can be a a slight to big difference in heat treatment & the structure of the alloy used. This can vary within the gear itself. Along with the individual teeth not being exactly the same from the start.
The wear pattern thing is in fact very real. A well used but still serviceable gear set will often sing or sound off a bit when matched up different than it was prior in a rear axle. Seen the same in reels show up as described here as being rough... Jeff
Quote from: Midway Tommy on March 03, 2018, 02:59:33 PM
Quote from: philaroman on March 03, 2018, 08:21:38 AM
perfectly understandable, to me... as the ole' ditty goes:
when I was 5, I just wanted to catch A FISH
when I was 25, I wanted to catch MORE/BIGGER fish
now, that I'm a crotchety, cantankerous 50+
I want to catch fish, THE WAY I want to catch fish
You pretty much nailed it but forgot one little phrase..........
now, that I'm a crotchety, cantankerous 50+, and caught more fish than I ever thought possible,
I want to catch fish, THE WAY I want to catch fish ;D
"Each of us should stick with what pleases us, and let others continue on with what pleases them...[t]he main goal in all of it is to improve ways to please the [fish]". Dave Hughes, fishing writer.
Frank
Quote from: Rivverrat on March 04, 2018, 09:35:57 PM
Whats being described here is the same thing dealt with a lot of times regarding ring & pinions. I'm not saying this is the situation in every case. I do know it happens. When dealing with mass produced gears there can be a a slight to big difference in heat treatment & the structure of the alloy used. This can vary within the gear itself. Along with the individual teeth not being exactly the same from the start.
The wear pattern thing is in fact very real. A well used but still serviceable gear set will often sing or sound off a bit when matched up different than it was prior in a rear axle. Seen the same in reels show up as described here as being rough... Jeff
So after servicing my reel and soaking them gears in turpentine i should expect my reel to be noiser than usual? But that kinds of beat the point in servicing your reel dont you think?
Quote from: Reel Beaker on March 08, 2018, 06:12:21 AM
Quote from: Rivverrat on March 04, 2018, 09:35:57 PM
Whats being described here is the same thing dealt with a lot of times regarding ring & pinions. I'm not saying this is the situation in every case. I do know it happens. When dealing with mass produced gears there can be a a slight to big difference in heat treatment & the structure of the alloy used. This can vary within the gear itself. Along with the individual teeth not being exactly the same from the start.
The wear pattern thing is in fact very real. A well used but still serviceable gear set will often sing or sound off a bit when matched up different than it was prior in a rear axle. Seen the same in reels show up as described here as being rough... Jeff
So after servicing my reel and soaking them gears in turpentine i should expect my reel to be noiser than usual? But that kinds of beat the point in servicing your reel dont you think?
Getting rid of the dirt, grunge, grime & sand and adding new, fresh, lubricants will add to the performance & lifetime of your reel. Be patient, give it some time for the gears to remesh and a nice coating of new clean lubricants to establish themselves on the gears and bushings and everything will quite down. The older the reel the more it can be a factor, newer reels, not so much. That is due to part wear.
Tommy covered it.
I was referring to what was said prior regarding servicing an older or well used reel sometimes when the gears are installed & not matched up how they came out... Jeff
Quote from: Pro Reel on March 03, 2018, 03:57:20 PM
I've never measured them like you're doing, but have often needed to add or remove shims with replacement gears or just to remove excess slack. Now, one thing I noticed in my shop years ago was a strange phenomenon of a reel that was smooth before service becoming rough after service. Some techs back then told me they thought the gears just needed to reseat themselves and would smooth up over time. That wasn't acceptable for me to do with customers reels. I either needed to figure a way to be sure the reels would be at least the same smoothness after service as before, if not better, or just quit doing spinning reels altogether. Although it didn't seem to make any sense to me, it seemed that the gears in a well used spinning reel had become used to matching up with each other and if you put them back in a different configuration, then they would be rough. This didn't make sense because they don't have an even ratio so they shouldn't be hitting the same teeth on each revolution. Never the less, I saw it to many times to ignore. I started devising a way to mark the gears to put them back exactly like they were. I would use an awl to make a scratch on one flat side of the pinion gear. I would then impale the drive gear with a pointed dowel to hold it in place as I lift off the side cover to keep it meshed with the pinion. I would then make a mark on the drive gear that I could line it back up with later. When putting back together I would turn the pinion up to the side that was marked and then line the drive up with it's mark and then put them together. Once I started doing that I have never had a reel turn out rougher after service than before. The only answer that makes any sense to me is that the gears do wear in a matching pattern but it's a pattern that repeats itself several times depending on the ratio. Itseems that if the ratio is 5 to 1 then there will be 5 perfect matching paterns to the pinion gear. Gettting even one tooth off of that pattern cam cause the reel to be rough. If any of you engineer guys have thoughts on this I would love to hear them.
I am so glad you posted this.. I have very limited experience with reel servicing,but this explanation has crossed my mind quite a few times after 3 different spinning reels not feeling the same after I get them back together. Only trouble is, how in the heck could you figure out where the engagement was from the factory after the service was already performed and slapped back together? Not possible right?
I'm old school with spinning reel shims. I go by feel and sound. One thin shim makes a world of difference in modern spinning reels. Its a pain because you have to assemble then take back apart to get it right.
Then re-shim do-it again -repeat - yup but when it hits that sweet spot - it's always worth it ;D
Quote from: handi2 on April 24, 2018, 11:02:07 PM
I'm old school with spinning reel shims. I go by feel and sound. One thin shim makes a world of difference in modern spinning reels. Its a pain because you have to assemble then take back apart to get it right.
Well what do you do when it's a Penn 4500ss that has no shims on the main,and feels worse after I cleaned and relubed and assembled?
good topic, and fully true
Just found this thread, very intresting. i have a Stella SW 14k (2019) that feels rough after i loaded it with braid. i think i wound the braid on too tight (my bad).
brand new reel now feels rough, what would you gurus be looking for. It spins very freely but has a rough / geary feeling.
I did notice when it was new and not loaded with braid, that there seemed to be excessive vertical play in the spool shaft and excessive side to side play in the spool shaft. My Stella SW 18k has much less play in it.
would the shims at the back of the worm / oscillating gear affect the vertical play and would the bushing behind the rotor affect the side to side. i figure the roughness would need to shim the main gear ???
Surely a '19 Stella is still under warranty. Send it to Shimano, play dumb, don't mention a single thing other than "doesn't feel right". Make it their problem.
Quote from: Pro Reel on March 03, 2018, 03:57:20 PM.......one thing I noticed in my shop years ago was a strange phenomenon of a reel that was smooth before service becoming rough after service. Some techs back then told me they thought the gears just needed to reseat themselves and would smooth up over time. That wasn't acceptable for me to do with customers reels. I either needed to figure a way to be sure the reels would be at least the same smoothness after service as before, if not better, or just quit doing spinning reels altogether...
been there and thought the same !! >:(
and hate it!
In terms of re-aligning gears for meshing, the gears are almost certainly "hunting" in any modern reel; that is to say the number of teeth on each gear is usually a prime number so there are no common factors, and your "5:1" reel is probably more like 13:67. This means that every tooth of the drive gear will eventually meet every tooth of the pinion gear, and the position the gears are in when the reel is reassembled means nothing.
The exception to this is gears that have to be "timed", such as the oscillation drivetrain in Shimano Baitrunner/Thunnus reels, because the oscillation gears aren't round and thus need to stay in relationship to one another.