I have a Shimano 4500B baitrunner that has worked flawlessly for years up until my last trip when the reel seemed to turn very hard and at times lock up. I noticed it would free up if I flipped the anti reverse on the bottom of the reel but would not turn or spin freely and it would occasionally lock up then as well. if I flip the antilock on the reel now just freezes up.
Any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem or what the problem might be?
I'd start by pulling the anti-reverse clutch out and inspecting it for rust. Could also be bad bearings.
I think it's the pinion bearing and anti reverse. They are right next to each other.
Go online and get a schematic for your reel. It will help when taking it apart.
Hi Pontoon and welcome,
Schematic here:
- http://schematics.mikesreelrepair.com/albums/shimano/Shimano_BTR4500B.pdf (http://schematics.mikesreelrepair.com/albums/shimano/Shimano_BTR4500B.pdf)
FT and Handi have ya on the right track.
Check the Roller Clutch Assembly and pinion bearing first, and progress from there.
The 6500B is basically identical, so you can use BigT's tutorial as a servicing guide:
- http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=994.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=994.0)
Let us know if you run into any issues.
Good luck, Justin
4500B
I want to say thank you for the replies, suggestions and schematics. I think I'm going to dive into this project and see what happens........
Thank you all again!
It shouldn't be too bad. For the B series you have to start by opening the side plate and removing the clutch plate. It's held in place with two screws. Be careful with that piece. It has a few springs attached that are a pain to put back together. Then you can remove the spool shaft. It's held in place with a screw and a little metal clip. You can pull the drive gear out. Once you have the shaft out, you can remove the rotor nut and rotor. The anti-reverse is right there. Remove the silver screws only, not the black. Now the anti-reverse will pull out. You can gently dip a q-tip on the inside to see if it's bleeding rust. You can inspect the bearings underneath. Pull them out and spin them with your fingers. Check for rust. You can try to clean them with carb cleaner but if they still feel gritty, you probably need new bearings.
I appreciate the information and tips. I decided last night to open the reel up and I have to say thanks to FatTuna for the tip on removing the spool shaft to get the drive gear out. It is different than the 6500 as far as removing the metal clip.
I realized that there are a couple tools I want to get so I closed it back up before going any farther. The clutch spring was a little tricky but I have that figured out.
I'll probably go deeper into it this weekend. Funny thing is that even though I didn't get into the anti reverse portion of the reel and after I got it back together it no longer seized up but is still a little stiff. I'm sure once I get it cleaned and lubed it will be good to go.
Thanks again for the information.
another (less likely) possibility: see if it works w/out the friction ring [in Justin's link it's RD-6544, but in the above blow-up it appears to be RD-6843 -- not sure why ??? might be different years of manufacture]
in older models the friction ring is sometimes the cause of "Shimbindo", if it swells or otherwise deforms from age/wear/humidity/etc. in later models & later-made replacement parts, it's supposedly made from better stuff which takes care of the problem... still, I know a couple people who religiously remove & toss the friction rings, w/ no ill effects -- there were no friction rings at all, from the oldest "Aero" models through StradicFE & the reels worked just fine
The problem looks to be the friction ring has broken and jammed up in the reel. I'll have to order one and replace it.