Anyone had luck painting reels with the Alumahyde from Brownells?
Looks like it would be a bit tougher than your standard spray paint, especially on saltwater reels.
I have a number of big old Mitchells and Penns to bring back to life. Any feedback appreciated!
Whit
Use it all the time. Just finished two Penn 710's , one in semigloss black, the other in flat black. Semi-gloss matches the factory black.
Easy to use. Scuff up the original paint or remove paint completely. It does not need a primer. Follow the instructions on the can. Purchase the extra nozzles including the one to blow out the feeder tube as they clog.
Brownell's also carries the white paint to restore the Mitchell lettering.
Thanks for the post on this, I have two cans at home waiting to be used up.
Quote from: Whit on May 16, 2018, 09:23:13 PM
Anyone had luck painting reels with the Alumahyde from Brownells?
Looks like it would be a bit tougher than your standard spray paint, especially on saltwater reels.
I have a number of big old Mitchells and Penns to bring back to life. Any feedback appreciated!
Whit
Even the standard spray paint can do the job if you leave it fully cured
Marc..
Quote from: George6308 on May 17, 2018, 12:19:51 AM
Use it all the time. Just finished two Penn 710's , one in semigloss black, the other in flat black. Semi-gloss matches the factory black.
Easy to use. Scuff up the original paint or remove paint completely. It does not need a primer. Follow the instructions on the can. Purchase the extra nozzles including the one to blow out the feeder tube as they clog.
Brownell's also carries the white paint to restore the Mitchell lettering.
If one looks closely at an original Mitchell reel, the engraving is not painted. They are simply engraved and what looks like white is the bright silver of the aluminum. One of the best ways to restore the etching is to use a sharp machinist's scribe to clean out the engraving.
Anyone have pics on the alumahyde?
Here are three Penn's painted with Aluma-Hyde II: 704 in gloss black and a 710 Greenie refinished in flat black and regeared with 712 gears.
710Z refinished in gloss black.
Family photo. The Alumin-Hyde holds up very well when exposed to salt water.
I'm sold. Like errybody else I have a box of Mitchells and Spinfishers needing a facelift but working fine.
It sure looks nice!
How durable is it?
Very durable. I have my son's 710 broken down for a touch up repaint. I gave him the reel when he was a teenager he's now 46. It was finished with Aluma-Hyde maybe 25 years ago when the factory finish peeled off. It has been fished very hard but only sustained minor corrosion on the edge of the rotor cup under the finish. Light sanding of the spots to the bare aluminum, touch up coat, and it will be ready for 25 plus more years. Only miss use can kill the older Penn's.
The black finish you see is the original Alumin-Hyde. The 1/4-20 bolts hold the parts so they can be painted in one pass.
seems legit
I have some reels that could use some aluma-hyde II
Here is a Penn 10-49 star that was refinished with Aluma-Hyde. To avoid scratches a Penn 60-712 washer will be used between the handle and the face of the star.
I have an old Penn 80 international that someone did a terrible blue paint job on. It's peeling off. If I used paint and varnish stripper to get rid of the rest of the blue, would it hurt the aluminum under this blue paint ? most but not all the original gold under it is gone already.
Then I can have a snazzy black Alumin- hyde international. ;D
thanks for any input.
Greg
Try aircraft paint remover it should remove the blue paint. Aluma-Hyde was produced by Brownells as a way to refinish aluminum shotgun receivers. It is an epoxy coating that bonds to aluminum. Just follow the instructions it takes 10 days to fully cure.
It does come in colors but the only semi gloss is black.
thanks for the advise. Do you also know of anything that will remove whats left of the original gold finish ? I don't want to soak the parts in anything because the inside of the reel is still in descent shape.
The gold anodizing does not have to be removed in order for the Alumin-Hyde to adhere to the part being refinished. A light sanding with 400 or 600 grit paper on the areas where the bare Aluminium shows to remove any corrosion left over.
Follow Brownells instructions for a second coat if you desire.
thank you again. I will post the final ''facelift'' - sometime after Oct. 1.... GONE FISHIN' !