Was there ever a frame or newell bars/reel foot ever made for the Penn 2/0. Just asking thanks guys.
Pretty sure the answer is on a recent long beach 60 thread. 2/0 and long beach 60 are same reel, except outer rings and 3rd post.
Yes, Tiburon made some T2 frames for the 2/0. I'm sure they are few and far between.
I hunt hard for Accurate and Tiburon frames and I've only seen two 2/0 frames in ten years, so it wouldn't be easy to find one unless you get very lucky, or someone who reads this board has one that they would part with.
The diameter of the 2/0 is the same as the 112H, but the hole locations are different. If you are handy and can drill and tap some holes, you could make an Accurate or Tiburon frame work on your 2/0. As to Newell bars and bases, I've never seen any Newell components in the 2/0's oddball 1 3/4" width, but just because I haven't seen any doesn't mean that there aren't any out there. Good luck with the project.
Thanks for the replies guys. That's what I figured and to bad the T2 frame is so rare. Even if I do find one, it might be a shame to fish it. I noticed that about the 112h frames just getting a spool to work with it would be difficult.
I'm pretty sure that there is a Long Beach model that is a little bit wider than the 60. I don't know for sure because I do not usually deal with the Long Beach series (except for the 259), but given Penn's habit of making their parts as interchangeable as possible, I would guess that they made a model with the correct width spool to fit the 112H 2 1/8" wide frame.
I believe a Longbeach 65 is 2 1/8 wide. Lb 66 also 2 1/8 wide. RUDY
Almost forgot, 112h2,125,190 seaboy(1990+),309M, & 99 RUDY
The 65 is a a good choice. Is the spool the right diameter. Not as familiar with Long Beach reels.
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on December 23, 2014, 06:08:30 AM
The 65 is a a good choice. Is the spool the right diameter.
Same diameter spool as the 2/0, but the 65 is wider.
We could make our own frame
;D
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/mcaselle/111frame_zps23e52897.png)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/mcaselle/111framerend_zps8dbf0eb9.png)
make sure the cross bars are low enough. we made that mistake one time.
Quote from: ZaneG on December 26, 2014, 10:49:48 PM
We could make our own frame
;D
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/mcaselle/111frame_zps23e52897.png)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/mcaselle/111framerend_zps8dbf0eb9.png)
Wow ZaneG that's beyond my skill set but looks awesome! Wonder how much it would be to get some made up.
DISCLAIMER: I am not a machinist I only make the drawings and from my experiences the engineers and machinists have a love/hate relationship.
I always imagined it could be done on a lathe and mill but I could never figure how to make the stand maybe somebody else knows. Even then it would take a lot of time to clean the part up and it still might not look great.
I guess this is why they are all cast which only makes sense if you make a larger run of parts.
Quote from: ZaneG on December 27, 2014, 12:37:42 PM
I always imagined it could be done on a lathe and mill but I could never figure how to make the stand maybe somebody else knows. Even then it would take a lot of time to clean the part up and it still might not look great.
It may be easier to make the stand separately and attach it with screws to the frame, as is done on the Tiburon frames.
It would be a great if we could make a run. If not talk to tiburon. But i believe they would need an interest of at least 50 or more
I used my Tiburon 113HLW frame as a starting point so I do have the stand bolted....
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a29/mcaselle/111framea_zpsf331a9e0.png)
.....but even making that stand component through a machining process would be difficult (at least in my mind).
Tiburon has to have a mold for that frame someplace if they produced it before so I would also think that is the way to go.
Check out the 9/0 Tom Dom frames... it is possible with a talented machinist ;)
I'm not sure why we need to pump up a 2/0 for a full frame job... we don't have a gear set to push the posts to the max unless someone comes out with SS gears for us, of course ;D
Dom
Quote from: broadway on January 20, 2015, 11:42:35 PM
Check out the 9/0 Tom Dom frames... it is possible with a talented machinist ;)
I'm not sure why we need to pump up a 2/0 for a full frame job... we don't have a gear set to push the posts to the max unless someone comes out with SS gears for us, of course ;D
Dom
Because we can....and because it would look cool. Do we need any other reasons Dom ???
Quote from: broadway on January 20, 2015, 11:42:35 PM
Check out the 9/0 Tom Dom frames... it is possible with a talented machinist ;)
I'm not sure why we need to pump up a 2/0 for a full frame job... we don't have a gear set to push the posts to the max unless someone comes out with SS gears for us, of course ;D
Dom
Actually I have plans to do the gear upgrade on these.
I am working on a Senator 2/0 - Long beach 60 frame.
I don't have a LB-60 yet, so I can't insert the holes for the side plate screws. This will be fixed when the LB-60 that is in the mail arrives.
I think it is possible to drill extra holes so that it can be used for both the Senator 2/0 and the LB-60.
FStix, If there's a gear upgrade in the works go for it, but I'm not sure why to make a frame for a reel that's been discontinued so long.
Ted, why not just make every penn reel an aluminum frame? I guess for me it only makes sense if you're pushing the reel to the max which can't be done with the gearing currently inside. I don't buy frames to be/ look cool ...I buy them for necessity. To each his own, right?
Where the frames would come in handy is 10/0-16/0 as many here have been needing them for quite some time now.
All the best,
Dom
I do agree with you Dom, but if the option is there, why not make everyone happy ;). On another note, I'm personally not a fan of aluminum, We use aluminum because its the only material that will give us a chance, not because its good, but because its affordable.
Some have pointed out here that aluminum is better than stainless steel, to those I say...please, don't make me laugh. ;D
The SaLee reel reel was a project that never happened, that was started over 3 years ago. The kit was stainless steel half frame for the 10/0 and was designed by me and Lee... too bad :-\
We did understand that weight would have been an issue, but we had ways to bring it down by drilling large holes where able to and thinning down the material. The proper grade stainless steel doesn't need to be too thick for it to do its job.
Carry on guys, just another one of my worthless opinion.
Sal
I remember something was in the works, but never got the specifics. If anyone says aluminum is better than SS they're crazy. Aluminum is lightweight which is the only reason frames are made from it. I would've loved to have seen those Salee frames and think there is a calling for them also.
I just didn't want anyone to waste their money like Tiburon did when they went through the process of designing a frame for the 2/0 that they wound up shelfing.
Also, what would the drag numbers look like in comparison to the jig master? Black Pearl has our jigmasters pumped up to the hilt already. ;)
I do agree, let's make everyone happy.
Dom
Dom, our reels are just sitting around 99% of the time when not in use, so why not have them look pretty with a one piece frame.......and just because the LB 60 was discontinued is no reason to eliminate it from being a candidate for upgrades...........The 16/0 was discontinued over 20 years ago, yet you want to see a frame made for it, and I guarantee there are a million more LB 60's out there in comparison to the amount of 16/0's out there.
So take a stock used 16/0 that costs you $500+ to buy, then add a expensive frame and other upgrdades and you are well over $1,000. At what point do you draw the line and just go buy a penn international that has aluminum frame and plates and has 50# of drag and is ready to fish....that's why 16/0 was discontinued....and adding a full frame to a reel that already weighs over 12# will make it heavier than a sack of potatoes.........no thanx.
Ted,
What else do your reels do with that leftover 1% if we're not using them? ;D
Let me preface my comment by saying I don't need a 2/0 or 16/0 frame. Now, I agree with not making a frame for the 16/0 as they aren't the most used of Penn's Big Game reels for sharking like the 10/0, 12/0, and 14/0. The weight of the reel will actually go down with a one piece frame, it will not go up. The posts, the reel stand, reel clamp, etc way lots more than an aluminum frame. As much as you're correct about there being more LB 60's than 16/0's, how many people want specialized frames for their 60 as opposed to the 16/0. Theres no reason in my eyes to pump up a 2/0 or 60, but if it'll make you happy have at it. Not sure about comparing an International to 16/0 with a frame, but I don't wanna turn this into a peeing match, so I say "Go for it!" As for me... no thanks.
Thanks
Dom
You're exactly right Dom....I guess my point is form over function. How many cars you see with $2000+ rims, yet the car is only worth $1500, and the huge expenditure did nothing for the performance....and there is no shortage of cars like that on the road. Realizing the LB 60 can never have tons of drag would not stop me from making it look like it could have......it's a jedi mind trick !!
We've talked about this many times before fellas. Lots of things come into play as for "is it worth it".
It could be a special reel that was given to you by your grandfather or dad, or anything else.
To me yes, it is worth it .
I could get a decent Jigmaster on ebay for $75, adding the ss bridge, yoke, jack, sleeve, gears, spacer, spacer bars, handle and upgraded drag kit would bring it up to @ $265.
Yes, there are new reels out there with the works for that money, but as for me personally, I'm sticking with our jigmaster tank ;)
With that said, enjoy fishing no matter which reel you choose ;)
I am very Happy with the 9/0 Dom and Tom Frames. I have several 9/0's that I have $400 each in and I haven't even fished them.
Its the labor of love, not how much your going to use it or who else wants it.
I get so much praise for my senator Posts, but its just a Senator with some high end parts. I am nowhere near the Guru like some of our members here. I just like doing it. It makes me Happy! ;D
If there was a frame for a 16/0, you bet your last penny, I would be all over it! ;)
A ultimate 12 and 14/0 are in the works and I am very excited about it. No Frame yet, but a lot of Muscle! >:(
The Long Beach 60 frame turn out to be difficult to cut if set up as a full frame and not using the inner rings.
The thin flange is very wide so it is difficult en expensive to cut.
Setting it up as a half-frame that uses the inner rings is no problem.
This is what it may look like.
That looks really nice. I might have to buy a LB 60
Mike
LB 60 reel in custom frame ready to go fishing.
I am wondering if you could start with a thick wall aluminum extrusion (like a pipe or tube) and cut the half frame out of it. I am sure it would need to be heat treated before cutting, but it would reduce a huge part of the machining required. Using the rings makes it a much simpler process. Heat treat would be required to make sure it does not change shape while it is machined.
Making a die to cast that would be cost prohibitive. Just the design work on the die would shock us, I am sure. The die itself would be close to $50K.
Quote from: Unutt on January 24, 2015, 02:40:18 PM
I am wondering if you could start with a thick wall aluminum extrusion (like a pipe or tube) and cut the half frame out of it. I am sure it would need to be heat treated before cutting, but it would reduce a huge part of the machining required. Using the rings makes it a much simpler process. Heat treat would be required to make sure it does not change shape while it is machined.
Making a die to cast that would be cost prohibitive. Just the design work on the die would shock us, I am sure. The die itself would be close to $50K.
The frame "half" is a bit more than half a pipe. Anyway starting with a suitable pipe will reduce machining cost. Just turn down to correct diameter. turn the inside of the frame. machine foot cutout with holes and threads. mount the piece on a jig that fits the foot cutout. mill the sides. drill holes and press the threads. cut off the top. mill the cutouts, mill the fillets, mill the logo. brush finish and anodize.
If the frame was a bit less than half pipe, it would be possible to make them in pairs.
They are flushing he piece with coolant during machining, so heat buildup is negliable. Not all aluminium is heat treatable either.
Some alloys are work hardened. Anyway, the selection of alloy is based on corrosion resistance and machineabillity. Choosing the best alloy for corrosion resistance may result in problems cutting the part and the other way around.
I am looking into the possibillity of having a second set of screw hols to make it possible to mount the senator 2/0 in the same frame.
It may be possible, but will increase production cost.
Someone else was trying to do the same and Tom ( Cortez_Conversions ) advised him not to. He had a very good explanation, but i can't find it. You're free to do as you please, but I'll take Tom's advise very seriously.
Sal
Found one of Tom's answer, but i know there is more:
Remember, that tubing has crazy stress in it from the extruding process.
Don't count on concentricity, either.
When you cut only the OD or ID it's going to warp/oblong.
You're gonna need to skin BOTH ID and OD, and come back with finish cuts to make the diameters round.
PM me if you have any questions!