July 11, 2017...
Beginning to replace the missing pictures. Should be done in a couple of days. Started from FLICKR but they don't allow "3rd Party" hosting, i.e. the pictures are not part of the thread. Instead, the viewer must activate a link to Flickr to see the picture, and to where the pictures are stored. So I've changed course in mid stream and have decided to use the AT Gallery site. To me, all of this is a new learning process.
josa1
___________________________________________________________
I still have and use the first long range big tuna reels I ever bought. They were Shimano TTS 50W single speed reels. I bought two of these reels from Turners in the 1980s for $199.00 each while they were on sale. I caught several nice tuna on them using 60 and 80 pound line and they always performed perfectly.
A lot of big fish catches have stories. I caught my biggest fish ever, 283 pounds, on this particular reel while fishing at the San Benedicto Island Lunker Hole on the RRIII when it was being skippered by Danny Palm Jr. and Bob Burns. I was using 60 pound Izorline and it took me 2 hours and 45 minutes to land the fish. When the fish was at color I broke the 5 1/2 foot Sabre' Stroker rod I was using. The line was cut and spliced onto another reel that had been partially spooled and it was a Penn 50 Wide 2-Speed. Shortly thereafter I landed the fish. The picture of myself, deckhand Jimmy Burwell, deckhand Andy Cates, and the fish were on the RRIII brochure the next year.
One thing I learned during this battle, two speeds are much better than one. When I returned from the trip I had the Rusty Hook tackle store send the reels in to Cal Sheets to have them converted to two speed operation. The cost for the conversion at that time was around $175.00 each. I've used the reels ever since and I've learned to care for them in the best fashion that I can, so I thought I would share what I've learned with others.
As you perform these services be aware that Shimano no longer sells parts for the reels and although there are some places where parts can be purchased, parts are not that easy to find. A few years ago I bought a reel that I use as a parts reel because I needed a spool, more on that later.
I've experimented with the drag wafer configuration and have been able to obtain 28-30 pounds of drag at strike setting and 44-46 pounds of full drag while maintaining free spool. The best configuration I've found so far is I(())((). The reels originally shipped with 6 wafers in this position, ()()(). As you can see, to get the drag settings listed, I've added an additional washer for a total of 7.
Well, enough history, let's get started.
Here is the reel...It is obvious that has been converted to two speed operation when you see the spacer between the right side plate and the reel frame and the shift button on the handle locking nut.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_31_184961893.jpeg)
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and here are the schematics and parts name breakdown. These won't be complete because of the two speed modification additions.
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https://www.flickr.com/gp/149892688@N02/17553d
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https://www.flickr.com/gp/149892688@N02/6Rh3Lk
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https://www.flickr.com/gp/149892688@N02/x90Kt3
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https://www.flickr.com/gp/149892688@N02/1E024b
The first part of this is pretty elementary.
Remove the following...
The rod clamp bolts..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_31_184971877.jpeg)
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The handle nut locking screw..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_32_184981042.jpeg)
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The handle nut which contains the two speed shift control button, the gear shaft seal and the handle.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_32_1849988.jpeg)
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The lever hub cover..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_33_185001141.jpeg)
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The lever thrust ring
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_33_185012205.jpeg)
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The "C" lock holding the PreProgram dial on to the assembly
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_34_185021845.jpeg)
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The Lever Retaining Plate
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_34_18503493.jpeg)
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Pre Program Dial including the Detent Spring and washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_35_185042046.jpeg)
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The Drag Control Lever and Thrust Ring
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_35_185051948.jpeg)
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The Lever Quadrant and Quadrant Support Stands
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_36_185062334.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_36_18507167.jpeg)
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With all the above removed, the right side plate looks like this. Note the position of the lever shaft body, when you reassemble the reel, you'll want this to be around the same height.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_36_185081749.jpeg)
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Remove the screws in the Right Side Plate, be sure the washers come out with the screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_37_18509806.jpeg)
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Separate the side plate, the spacer and the reel frame
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_38_18511586.jpeg)
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Here is the Right Side Plate with the high speed gear, the low speed gear, the pinion bearing and click alert plunger showing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_37_18510539.jpeg)
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Remove the Cross Bar and associated screws and harness lugs
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_38_185122061.jpeg)
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WOW! A topless 50W
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_38_18513825.jpeg)
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Remove the spool assembly
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_39_185142474.jpeg)
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Note there are two Pre Load Springs (wafer washers) and a Bearing Thrust Washer on the spool shaft. These components are positioned against the bearing in the left side of the reel frame.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_40_18517475.jpeg)
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Remove the Left Side Plate Ball Bearing using your handy dandy bearing puller
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_40_185181314.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_41_185191168.jpeg)
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Remove the anti reverse dogs, the dog spring screws and star washers, the dog springs and backing plate. Look carefully at the dogs prior to removing them, they go on the pins in a distinct fashion. Make note of this for use during reassembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_42_18522360.jpeg)
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Here the frame has been stripped of all parts and is ready for cleaning.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_42_185232152.jpeg)
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Moving on to the Right Side Plate, let's begin by removing the gear shaft, low speed gear and shift mechanism. Insert a tool into the shaft bore and compress the gear shift plunger spring. This will take the tension off the gear shift pins and allow you push the gear shaft out of the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_10_56_34_186662270.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_43_185251718.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_43_185262159.jpeg)
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Note that the high speed gear is held in place on the side plate with a specially formed snap ring. This ring has two slots and two holes in the tips of the ring to allow for removal. I'm pointing at one of the slots.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_44_185272349.jpeg)
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Remove the snap ring...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_44_185282187.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_44_18529967.jpeg)
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Let's dismantle the shift mechanism. In this photo I'm pushing the shift plunger out of the gear shaft. I use a small awl and insert it into a hole in the middle of the low speed gear.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_45_18530495.jpeg)
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Remove the Shift Plunger Spring by using a Q Tip. Push the Q Tip into the gear shaft and turn and it will catch the spring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_45_185311164.jpeg)
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Carefully remove the Shift Pins and that's all there is to the gear shift mechanism, simple and effective.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_45_185321284.jpeg)
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Remove the Pre Program Key, Pre Program Screw and Pinion Bearing from the Right Side Plate. Separate the Key and Screw.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_46_185331200.jpeg)
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On the outside of the Right Side Plate, remove the Body "O" Ring Seal and the Lever Hub Ratchet.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_46_18534567.jpeg)
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Remove the Strike Alert Plunger Retainer, Alert Lever Retainer, Alert Lever, Plunger Spring and Plunger. Note that the retainer, a "C" clip was broken while removing. Not to worry, found I had another that fit perfectly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_17_47_185361346.jpeg)
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All parts have been removed from the right side plate. It is ready for cleaning.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_11_06_52_186692057.jpeg)
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Moving on to the spool. Remove the low and high speed pinion gears.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_44_187021105.jpeg)
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Remove the Cross Pin. Standing the spool on end and firmly pushing down relieves the spring tension on the Cross Pin and it can then be easily removed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_44_18703137.jpeg)
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Remove the Cooling Shield using the Shimano provided wrench. The threads are right hand, i.e. turn counter clockwise to remove. Sometimes these get pretty hard to remove, if so, give the wrench a solid persuading tap with the plastic handle of a heavy screw driver
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_44_187042451.jpeg)
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Remove the drag assembly components, the titanium (Shimano term) drag washer, the drag plate, note highly polished, and the pressure plate. Note that the pressure plate has a cross slot that fits over the shaft pin for reassembly. The drag plate has 4 pins that fit into the holes on the pressure plate. It goes
back together neatly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_45_18705894.jpeg)
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This drag washer must remain very clean and dry. Note this washer is over 20 years old and the veteran of many trips and still in very good shape. At some point in time I might try a lubed carbontex drag washer but I've been happy with these. Because washer cleanliness is important, I do not remove the bearing shields or lube the bearings with a free spool improving oil. I use these reels for trolling and fishing big baits, so long free spool times is not of paramount importance.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_46_187062183.jpeg)
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Here are all of the components from the spool shaft. The wafer washers are installed on the shaft in the stock position, ()()(). Take time to look at this closely, when I have problems with reassembly, it's because I do something wrong here. Also note the bearing thrust washer, in actuality, there are three washers stuck together here. Remember that if Cal has added components, or assembled the reel components in a specific way, it's best to maintain his configuration. When I try to change things it never works out.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_46_187071795.jpeg)
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Here are all of the reel components after separation. They are ready for cleaning and reassembly. Looks like a lot, but not really that bad if you assign a job to each part and see how it accomplishes that job. I always spend much more time during dismantling, inspecting and cleaning the reel parts than I do in putting it back together
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_46_187082422.jpeg)
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The spool always get special attention. Note that there are a couple of little corrosion spots. I make sure these are cleaned very thoroughly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_47_187091349.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_47_18710886.jpeg)
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Inspect and clean the shaft bore. Here everything looks great
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_48_18711171.jpeg)
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This is what a spool looks like that didn't receive the proper care. I am totally to blame. After a couple of trips when I didn't remove the line and spectra and properly clean the spool, the damage occurred. As no parts were available from Shimano I had to find a reel that I could use as a parts house. I eventually found one and took the spool above out and replaced this one. This one was ugly but it still worked fine.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_48_187122218.jpeg)
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Clean and lube the spool shaft parts. In this picture you can see the three bearing thrust washers separated.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_48_187131763.jpeg)
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At this point I do a lot of cleaning. As noted in other posts, I use a Kleen Strip product to remove old grease. The solution here is getting pretty yucky! I'm cleaning one of the rod clamp screws. Note the two pipe cleaners, one is just soft cotton fabric on a very fine wire, the other with the red dots is called an aggressive pipe cleaner as it has as an abrasive feel to it. Mainly, I use the pipe cleaners to clean all the screw holes but use them anywhere I need to clean a tight spot. The pipe cleaners will fit in the smallest screw hole, for instance, the handle nut lock screw hole
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_49_18714790.jpeg)
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I clean, drain and blow dry the spool...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_49_187151980.jpeg)
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the frame..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_56_18546381.jpeg)
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and the right side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_55_185451824.jpeg)
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It's time to start reassembly...I like to do it by sections, first the spool, then the frame, on to the right side plate and finally reassembly of the parts.
Lightly lube the spool ends and spool bore.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_49_187151980.jpeg)
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The spool shaft..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_50_187161900.jpeg)
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The spool components.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_50_187171176.jpeg)
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Then assemble the drag washer side of the spool shaft with the bearing, spring and cross pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_51_18719615.jpeg)
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Assemble the pinion side of the shaft. In order, working outward, are the bearing, bearing thrust washer(s), spacer (silver colored), wafer washers (I show them in the stock configuration here, ()()(), You can change the orientation to vary the drag pressure and ramp up), the brass colored spacer and then the pinion guard, and finally, the pinion cross pin. I've assembled the components outside of the spool bore so it's more apparent how they go together.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_50_18718732.jpeg)
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After assembly into the spool, stand the spool on end, press down to relieve spring pressure to get the clearance required to insert the pinion side cross pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_52_18720458.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_52_18721488.jpeg)
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Then reassemble the drag washer side of the spool. First, install the drag washer, keep very clean and oil/grease free.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_52_185381953.jpeg)
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Then the drag plate, the pressure plate and the cooling shield. Note that the four pins in the pressure plate must line up with the holes in the pressure plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_52_185392200.jpeg)
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Then be certain that the slot in the pressure plate lines up with the pin on the spool shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_52_185401410.jpeg)
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I usually insert the drag plate pins into the holes in the pressure plate, install the the drag plate and pressure plate onto the spool as an assembly, aligning the pressure plate slot with the shaft cross pin, hold those components in place while I get the cooling shield screwed on.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_54_185421597.jpeg)
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Then, using the Shimano wrench I tighten the cooling shield snugly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_53_185411105.jpeg)
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Install the low and high speed pinion gears.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_12_07_17_2_42_53_187221072.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_51_18537861.jpeg)
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Install the left side plate bearing wafer washers and the bearing pre load washer on the shaft and the spool reassembly is complete. Set this aside in a safe place so as not to dislodge the washers or pinion gears while we prepare the reel frame. A light coat of grease on the washers and pinions usually holds them in place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_55_185442268.jpeg)
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Moving on to the reel frame...Here is the frame after cleaning
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_59_1855427.jpeg)
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Apply a light coat of grease to the left side plate and the bearing bore. Then install the bearing and the anti reverse dog backing plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_23_59_185551972.jpeg)
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Here are the components of the anti reverse system, the screws and star washers, the dog springs and dogs. Note that the dogs have a dedicated installed position. The end of the dog that has a slight a slight circular "nub" rides against the drag pressure plate. The end of the dog that has a slight rise in height rides against the dog backing plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_00_185561501.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_00_18557899.jpeg)
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Install the dog springs and dogs noting the orientation above. I like to put the dogs on the pins and hold the spring in the compressed mode before tightening the screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_01_18558923.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_01_185592107.jpeg)
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Install the spool back into the reel frame being sure to keep the wafer washers and bearing thrust washer in place. Note fully assembled and lubed anti reverse dogs. If the dogs are difficult to seat, turn the reel shaft by twisting at the pinion gears.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_8_46_48_1883711.jpeg)
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Here the spool is installed and fully seated. We can set these components aside while we work on the right side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_01_185601170.jpeg)
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Here is the side plate that has been fully cleaned and blown dry.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_02_185611818.jpeg)
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Apply a light coat of grease to inside area of the side plate and install the lever shaft body by screwing into the side plate. The top of the body should be just about even with the right side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_02_18562491.jpeg)
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Lube and install the preprogram key and program screw and the pinion bearing. The bearing has been opened, cleaned and repacked.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_03_18563955.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_03_1856487.jpeg)
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Next, we'll install the clicker alert assembly. Start by lubing the interior of the alert plunger bore and the plunger and spring. Put the plunger spring in place and insert into the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_04_185661899.jpeg)
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Push the plunger up and install the "C" clip
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_42_18826730.jpeg)
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Install the alert lever retaining screw. I put the lever in the "silent" position then lightly tighten the screw until I'm certain the lever works correctly. There is a cut in the plunger that must align with the pin part of the screw.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_04_18567408.jpeg)
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Next, we need to install the gears and shift assembly. Here is the high speed gear. I lube the gear thoroughly and put in place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_05_18569955.jpeg)
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Install the gear retaining ring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_05_18569955.jpeg)
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Here are the gear shift components that will be installed in the gear shaft. Look closely at the locating pins, there is a flat side and rounded side.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_39_1881768.jpeg)
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Lube the inside of the gear shaft thoroughly.
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(http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t577/josa6/DSCN0575_zpsfd1f2d86.jpg) (http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/josa6/media/DSCN0575_zpsfd1f2d86.jpg.html)
Install the gear shift plunger return spring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_39_18818293.jpeg)
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Install the gear shift plunger. Note that the "cut" in the plunger goes into the shaft first.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_40_188191521.jpeg)
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Install the locating pins and then lube the outside of the gear shaft thoroughly. Be sure to face the locating pin rounded ends towards the outside of the gear shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_41_188212387.jpeg)
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Insert the gear shaft into the right side plate. When you reach the locating pins there will be resistance. On the outside of the side plate, insert a tool into the gear shaft and push on the plunger to depress the gear shift return spring. At he same time rotate the low speed gear and you should be able to push it into place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_41_188222236.jpeg)
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Here the low speed gear is fully seated.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_41_188232448.jpeg)
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We can now install the reel frame spacer and the right side plate onto the reel frame.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_07_185721056.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_07_18573633.jpeg)
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Put a small amount of grease into the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_08_185751858.jpeg)
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Line up the components and install the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_11_07_17_5_24_08_18574573.jpeg)
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Insert the screws and lock washers. The long screws go into the cross bar at the top of the reel. Tighten the screws snugly, but don't over tighten. Remember that you'll have to take these back apart some day.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_44_18830556.jpeg)
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Install the lever quadrant.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_44_188311615.jpeg)
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Install the drag lever and lever hub cover. Note that the lever has plastic thrust rings on the inside and outside. As you install the lever hub cover be sure to align the pre program dial with the slot in the pre program screw.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_45_18832786.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_45_188331721.jpeg)
DSCN0592
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_45_18834110.jpeg)
DSNC0593
Install the gear shaft shield, the handle, the handle nut/gear change button, the handle lock and screw.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_46_188351054.jpeg)
DSNC0594
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_46_188362303.jpeg)
DSNC0595
And, believe it or not, we're finished with this project!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_29_35_18810146.jpeg)
DSNC0568
Now just need to put the reel thru the paces. Check shift operation, drag response + Max/Min. How's the free spool, etc.
i took just a quick look, but it is nicely done! thank you very much!
Great report. Also, very nice fish but on 60# is outstanding. Very long fight, lucky no shark were in the area. A few years ago on one of my trip we looked at San Benedicto but did not see much and continued on to Clarion.
John
ATrolling Triton with a 2 speed conversion was recently listed on eBay. I didn't follow it; I had a TT30 that was the biggest disappointment of any tackle purchase I've ever made.
The drag must not have been properly shielded. It would lock up just from the water on the line. The reel was totally unusable.
I took it to the Shimano North America headquarters, about two hours from my home at the time. The only help they offered was a suggestion that I carry a hairdryer when I went fishing.
That was 28 years ago.
I have never bought another Shimano reel. If you can't tell, I'm still angry.
Nice work josa.
I have the 30/50 and 50/80 Tritons (ie the older version with the silicon clutch pad).
With a few key upgrades (eg greased CF and upgraded clutch pad material), they're great reels - I love 'em.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Justin
Hi Floating Doc,
Its funny how we have different experiences with fishing reels.
I'm going thru something with a reel right now that is somewhat similar to your experience. I have two of the reel in question, one is perfect the other is somewhat of a problem. I recently returned the problem one to the manufacturer to see what they could come up with, so we shall see. I'm hoping to get a better response than you got.
I see that you're in Florida so don't know if you might have had this experience.....Prior to using spectra we used to get spooled quiet a lot when we were fishing large YFT. It was standard procedure to attach a back up outfit to the first set up and throw the 1st one overboard to keep from breaking off the fish as the line on the reel was depleted. I've taken TTS reels apart after their ride in the drink and yes, we had to use a hair dryer to dry out that drag washer quickly if we wanted to continue fishing with it. The reels could be submerged in sea water for a long time before they were pulled back aboard so I guess the soaked drag would be expected.
Don't you think that greased carbon fiber drags would have helped your particular situation?
I'd sure like to take a look at that 30 you had the problems with. It would be mighty interesting to see what's going on there.
Thanks for your input. It's always great to hear of other people's experiences!
josa1
I don't have the reel any more. I sold it in a fishing club yard sale.
I'm sure that a CF drag washer would have fixed it. Chalk that up to another "wish I knew then what I know now" experience.
Iwas working in the northeast, then was going to Baja with my uncle. I booked a tuna trip that got blown out before leaving NJ. Then my uncle died of a heart attack. That was 1986. I still haven't been tuna fishing.
Josa, that's a great write-up.
I too am a fan of these reels - I have ten 30s and 50Ws, some 2 speeded by Cal Sheets. They do six months hard work every year on big bluefin in Tasmania - that's 43'S, below Australia.
Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Awesome tutorial, thanks a lot. I just picked up one of these in great condition with a rod for $100. The guys wife said he had too many rods and reels.
Do any later model shimano handles fit?
I don't know about other Shimano handles but I can certainly vouch for Alan's own product.
I've got a bunch of Alans handles on my reels and they are great. Does he do one that fits this reel?
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the nice words. If you look into the "new" reel let us know what you find.
I'm having computer problems so don't know if I might miss a message on occasion.
josa1
Bump !
Somehow I missed this one.
Nice ! Thanks for that 8)
Just about to do one of these
exellent tutorial will help alot
Bump!
Hi Erik,
If you run into any difficulties at all, just send me an email (joe.davidson@cox.com) and I will provide any assistance I can.
I am pretty much addicted to these "tank" reels, I have several and am watching a few on ebay right now. I've never had one fail!! What better compliment could you have?
I don't need any more reels, I've got to stop buying them!!! But, they're so good and mostly, so inexpensive.
josa1
bump again finaly got the C/F sheet
Let us know how you make out with cutting the drag washer.
josa1
Washer done one of the easiest yet
used a pair if dividers (like double pointed compass)
sharpen one side to chisel point (I am a carpenter so have a set of what we call scribers)
scrap of mdf
set to radius of od of original
arc a circle and check adjust to suit(get this just right then you wont have to sand)
arc a series of circles till C/F is cut through
do the same with Id
hold original over the top of your new washer and with the appropriate sized drill bit drill the four tab holes
clean up with chainsaw file check for size
Done
watch out for Itchies
now I am going to put it back together ;D
Nice work Jon - looking forward to the photos ;) ;D
jon, sorry about the delay. i will get your parts shipped out tomorrow. got stuck at work. :-\
Thanks for your Post JOSA
It is all back together now
will post photo and drag specs soon
Ps mine is non 2 speed original
Your pictures helped alot
Here is the result
Not a two speed
Just a standard in mint condition
Had some trouble reassembling
Had a bearing thrust washer in the wrong place ???
These tutorials really help
when will I stop making these silly mistakes ;D
with new C/f washer I tested at 25lb strike and 40lb sunset
smooth as a BB
Just need to fit Alans handle
thanks Jon
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y510/jonurlich/DSCF0850_zps58d5756b.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/jonurlich/media/DSCF0850_zps58d5756b.jpg.html)
NOW THEN! Now that's a beauty. That reel looks nearly new.
Great job.
josa1
i will get them shipped out later this morning!
Quote from: jonnou on September 21, 2014, 03:47:11 AM
Washer done one of the easiest yet
used a pair if dividers (like double pointed compass)
sharpen one side to chisel point (I am a carpenter so have a set of what we call scribers)
scrap of mdf
set to radius of od of original
arc a circle and check adjust to suit(get this just right then you wont have to sand)
arc a series of circles till C/F is cut through
do the same with Id
hold original over the top of your new washer and with the appropriate sized drill bit drill the four tab holes
clean up with chainsaw file check for size
Done
watch out for Itchies
now I am going to put it back together ;D
Thank you! Merci beaucoup! Gracias! Obrigado!
OK!!!!!!! THis is the part of the thread I have been longing for!!!
I am about to receive a Triton 80W that I hope can be stripped just like the 50 in this thread.
What is a good source for CF material to fabricate new drag washer as described above?
Nice work Jon...new old school killing machine.
Just recently did a couple of TTS 30's (single speeds) that both had the same problem.
The owner of these reels wanted to fish 15kg mono, so 5kg at Strike setting.
Trouble was free spool would be lost at around a strike setting of 4kg.
I ended up sourcing some slightly different bellevilles from the stock ones.
The original arrangement is there are 2 adjacent to the left side plate bearing arranged ().
These I did not change.
The Belleville stack at the pinion end (stock) is ()()()()().
I took out 2 pairs of original bellevilles and then arranged the originals ((())).
I then added 3 pairs of the newer bellevilles ()()().
So Belleville stack now looks ()()()((())).
The new washers were of slightly thinner metal but same undeflected height as the originals.
I had also hand cut new carbontex washers for the drags, which was about 0.2mm thinner than the original canvas washer.
A fair bit of trial and error to get the pinion bellevilles order established to give the strike drag setting required and maintain free-spool. The aftermarket bellevilles were sourced from smallparts.com.au for those reading from Australia. Can add exact dimensions of these additional washers later if anyone interested.
Hey Rothmar2,
Interesting. I've never really fished a 30 TTS but have worked on a few. Had to look up what 15 KG was in pounds ???, but the ever present google was right there when I needed it.
Really seems kind of light, at 2.2 pounds per KG, and losing free spool at about 4 KG. The drag definitely need some tinkering so your solution of changing the wafer number and config is always the best place to start.
At the first of this post you can see what I did to get a better drag for my application, also had to change the configuration and add an additional washer.
Well, the reels have been around for about 30 years now so some day we'll get them all figured out!
josa1
Thanks for your comments josa1.
Despite the time and effort it took to get the 30's right with all the adjusting of the Belleville stack, I feel it was worth it. I personally think with the Carbon Drag upgrade, these are a much more "user friendly" reel than the Tiagra's (ducks for cover!).
I'll add too, that the configuration I came up with had a very nice gradual drag ramp up from free to strike.
I think this whole (old) series of reels were also capable of much higher drag settings, they are built like tanks.
I guess I'll never see a Cal Sheets converted 2 speed version out here in Australia. Was interesting to see your original post for sure. It's a shame they have been discontinued. I think these are (and were) very underrated reels.
Hey Rothmar2,
Was just wondering if you got any report on how the 30's fished? I just went over your post again and was, again, impressed with your attention to detail.
I fished one of the modified 50's on a recent long range trip, absolutely fabulous performance and strength. Some folks might poke fun at me once in a while for using this "stagecoach" reel, I just nod to them and shake my head. I remain pretty much Old School, but I do have a lot of new toys to compare the TTSs to, they stand up very well. :D
josa1
Hey josa1,
Did not see your recent post, sorry for not replying sooner.
While I haven't seen these reels personally used in anger, I do know they have accounted for a number of bluefin tuna in the 40-50lb class using 15kg (30lb) line. The owner of the reels is still happy with their smooth drag and ramp.
Don't worry what others say about your reels, if the old school gear gets the fins on deck, and you get satisfaction from using it, then the proof is right there.
I personally feel that the older levers are a much more user friendly reel, and also have greater scope for customizing according to required application. Looser tolerances means more room move and greater scope for adjustment.
Not taking away from "modern" lever drags, they are marvellous pieces of engineering, but the tighter Tolerances leave little room for customizing, particularly drag ramps and top end numbers.
These TTS's, the pre-V series Penn Inters are the reels I enjoy working on the most. Finding them in good condition is getting harder, but properly serviced and maintained, these old reels are a far more versatile reel IMO. The only "modern" lever I have personally worked on that can approach the versatility of these older reels, is the 4/0 Avet. Having two sets of drag plate "pegs" that by moving 3 C-clips gave either a beautiful ramp for fishing IGFA line classes, or the ability to fish 80lb spectra to its limit, all wrapped up in the one reel, was a stroke of genius on Avet's part. Yeah the ratchet setup sucked, but it could be modified. By a whisker, my all time favorite reel.
Thanks for your comments Rothmar2, it's really nice to get feed back from people with experience on the reels I work with. I'm glad the 30's fished well. I'm sure they would fish 50-60 pound line with no problem.
Tight Lines.
josa
I only just seen it must have been busy
Spent the afternoon on one of my 50s after the most insane bluefin season for 50 years (still going strong). One suggestion about these reels - back the drag off when washing down your reel. Unlike most other reels, with these the tighter the drag, the more open the drag is to water. Odd design feature!
Hi yockman,
Thanks for the observation and for passing along the info for all to use. Aren't these reels great to use? They remain one of my favorites.
josa1
July 11th, 2017
My next project is to migrate all the pictures on this post to the Alan Tani Gallery.
May take a couple of days, but I'll definitely get it done!
josa1
just checked in today. first time for months. hope to see your pictures soon :)
Quote from: Rothmar2 on February 02, 2015, 05:00:14 AM
Just recently did a couple of TTS 30's (single speeds) that both had the same problem.
The owner of these reels wanted to fish 15kg mono, so 5kg at Strike setting.
Trouble was free spool would be lost at around a strike setting of 4kg.
I ended up sourcing some slightly different bellevilles from the stock ones.
The original arrangement is there are 2 adjacent to the left side plate bearing arranged ().
These I did not change.
The Belleville stack at the pinion end (stock) is ()()()()().
I took out 2 pairs of original bellevilles and then arranged the originals ((())).
I then added 3 pairs of the newer bellevilles ()()().
So Belleville stack now looks ()()()((())).
The new washers were of slightly thinner metal but same undeflected height as the originals.
I had also hand cut new carbontex washers for the drags, which was about 0.2mm thinner than the original canvas washer.
A fair bit of trial and error to get the pinion bellevilles order established to give the strike drag setting required and maintain free-spool. The aftermarket bellevilles were sourced from smallparts.com.au for those reading from Australia. Can add exact dimensions of these additional washers later if anyone interested.
Hi Rothmar2
Thanks for this interesting info on the different arrangement of new and old washers.
If by chance you still have details of what washers you sourced from smallparts.com.au I would be interested to see them.
Thanks!
Max
P.S. And Thanks josa1 for this write up
I caught my PB blueflin on one of those reels, 128lb on 60lb thought I was going to die. Wish it was a 2 speed. Thanks for the write up.
My first 2 long trips were on the RRIII when it was new with Danny Palm, a 10 day and a 16 day. Great skipper and a nice man.
Catching a cow on that gear was quite a feat back then
Yes, to this day my personal best is a 283 on 60 pound test Izor on a TTS 50W single speed on this reel. On the RRIII, got great help from George, broke a Sabre Stroker rod after more than two hours, line was spliced on to another rig, and I ended up landing the fish after about two hours and thirty minutes. Second place jack pot, 1st place was won by Jerry Massey with a 296 from the same school of fish. These are among the strongest reels I've ever fished.
Thanks for your comments. Brings back good memories!
josa1