Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Shimano Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: alantani on January 29, 2010, 09:34:50 PM

Title: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: alantani on January 29, 2010, 09:34:50 PM
Quote

can i copy and paste your tld post onto my website? thanks! alan

Quote from: bing!No problem. I would be honored.  I learned a lot of very useful tips and tricks from you. I just realized why you do some stuff that you do now that I have opened few used reels that have years on them. Your tutorials have been very helpful to me.  Regards, /bing

thanks!  it's important to me that other guys can see that i'm not the only one that does this kind of stuff.   the learning curve is very steep at first (um, no need to tell you that!), but it is an important and unavoidable step.  your example will inspire more to do the same.  and when this becomes common place, then i can go fishing!!!!!!!!!  alan


http://www.scsurffishing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56195

I bought a 1987 Shimano TLD5 ver.2.0 from Johnny last saturday. Thanks Johnny!

Its pretty much SOP to crack open any new reel that goes through my garage :)

KABLAM!
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP5995-1.jpg)

Don't panic. I came prepared :)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/shimmy.jpg)

Cursory inspection found very little corrosion. The outside threads of the frame screws had some salt, and the lever drag body was turning a little green. No pitting. Just surface reaction. I degreased the entire reel with white gas and a toothbrush. All the bearings were smooth and free spinning. Just to be sure, I soaked them in white gas and blew compressed air thru them using an RPM bearing blaster. The bearing blaster channels the air or any compressed cleaner thru the seals and drains them onthe other side. I re-oil with Tri-flow. Works good :)

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/rpm.jpg)

I have really wanted one of these reels due to their graphite body

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6001.jpg)

Titanium Drag Plate
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP5998.jpg)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/shimmy2.jpg)

and stainless gears
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP5997-1.jpg)

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6004.jpg)

semi-sealed level drag design (great for kayak fishing) if you heavily grease the threads on the drag cover plate and the center hole, I think it will be waterproof to 2 feet :)

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6002.jpg)

These days, I think only Accurate has reels with that kinda parts combo.

Johnny took pretty good care of this reel. It had a new original drag.

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6005.jpg)

Given that this is almost 20 year old technology, I thought an upgrade would be in order.

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP5999.jpg)

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6006.jpg)

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6007.jpg)

I gave it a good coat of grease inside out and oiled all the bearings. I also took out the shields facing inside the reel and kept the shields facing out. That will give it some protection and also allow them to drain.

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6009.jpg)

I checked freespool just to make sure that there was no binding. I recently read an article by reel designers regarding reel free spool. The article said extended free spool time can be designed into a reel by making the spool heavy. More mass equates to more inertia  resulting into longer free spool. However, a light spool will be easier to start, ergo longer casts (specially casting light objects), and easier to stop (less dependence on cast control) resulting in less likelihood of bird nesting. You don't really want your spool to keep spinning when the lure has stopped pulling line. Does that makes sense? Anywho, let me know when you achieve 30 second flight times on your lure or chovie :) With everything else constant, a light spool won't free spool as much as a heavy spool. To each his own.

Off she goes tomorrow for spooling.

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/bing123/IMGP6000.jpg)

My new old 20# reel :) If this thing ever broke, I wonder if Shimano would still honor its life time warranty?

Now if I only owned a 20# boat rod. Anyone?
Title: Re: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: basto on June 30, 2011, 01:58:00 AM
Nice little reel. I`m a big fan of the TLD Star drag reels. Just wondering why the need to grease the frame? I did not think graphite frames could corrode.
Title: Re: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: Bryan Young on June 30, 2011, 01:34:55 PM
Salt tends to stick to graphite frames, probably because it's not a smooth surface.  By greasing, it does not allow the salt water to stick to the frame, and slides out through any of the openings in the reel.
Title: Re: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: basto on July 02, 2011, 06:25:48 AM
Thank you Bryan. I will have to do this to my TLD Stars.
Title: Re: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: day0ne on December 23, 2011, 07:40:03 AM
I know this is a forlorn hope but I would dearly love to find a frame for a TLD5 in useable shape. One one of my 5's, someone drilled out the click button hole for a mag brake (I think) and the click button doesn't fit properly anymore. If anyone has a line on one I would love to hear about it. Thanks
Title: Re: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: alantani on December 23, 2011, 09:01:23 AM
that's gonna be tough!   :-\
Title: Re: Shimano TLD5 inspection, rebuild and conversion from bing! on sc surf fishing
Post by: CooldadE on December 23, 2011, 03:36:20 PM
I have used Marine tex and JB weld to fix many problems. The best bet would be to completly fill the hole then redrill / shape.