if i did a survey of favorite reels among northern california saltwater fisherman, i think the old "A" series shimano calcutta 400 would top the list. alot of guys have this reel, and everyone that has one loves it. here's a link to the schematics.
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20ct400.pdf
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20CT400S.pdf
and here's the topless 400 S.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0651.JPG)
first off comes the handle nut plate screw (key #795), the handle nut plate (key # 1692), and the handle nut (key #1693).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0652.JPG)
next comes the handle assembly (key #1694) and the friction washer (key #799). note the corrosion around the handle. this is a common finding.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0653.JPG)
remove the star drag (key#2002), the star drag spacer (key #1289), the two thinner drag spring washer (L)'s (key #1613), and the two thicker drag spring washer (B)'s (key #1455).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0654.JPG)
back out the two right side plate bolts (key #1698) and remove the right side plate assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0655.JPG)
spread everything out.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0656.JPG)
lube the left side plate bearing (key #194) with corrosion x.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0658.JPG)
here's a slick little modification. the plastic bushing that you see here can actually be replaced by a bearing. the dimensions on the bearing/bushing are 5mm id x 11mm od x 3mm ht and the bocabearings.com part # is SMR 685. there's no specific need to replace the bushing. i think it's just slick to have that option.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0659.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0660.JPG)
remove the two right side plate screws (key #1616).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0661.JPG)
lift off the right side plate (key #2043).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0662.JPG)
here's the entire gear cluster, cleaned up and spread out. the replacement penn h-100 drag washers are in the foreground. the first penn drag washer (going left to right) is a penn #6-965 that has been cut from 24mm down to 19mm, the second one is a #6B-965, the the next two are full sized #6-965's.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0663.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0664.JPG)
slap a coat of shimano or cal's drag grease on the drag washers and rebuild the stack.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0665.JPG)
there is one small trick with this reel. the ht-100 drag washers are thicker than the stock dartaniums. to get this to work, you have to alter the eared washer (key #1620). bend the ears down at a 45 degree angle so that it will catch the main gear.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0666.JPG)
here's the completed drag stack.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0667.JPG)
paint a little grease on the inside of the right side plate cover.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0668.JPG)
lube the right side plate bearing (key #194) with corrosion x.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0669.JPG)
the right side plate should snap cleanly over the bridge assembly. install the two right side plate screws (key #1616).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0670.JPG)
grease the frame screw holes.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0671.JPG)
note the position of the clutch plate (key #1631). this is the "up" position and the side plate is now "in gear."
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0672.JPG)
push the clutch plate "down" so that it is now "out of gear."
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0673.JPG)
note the position of the clutch bar (key #1723) now in the down position.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0674.JPG)
push it up.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0675.JPG)
ok, NOW you can put the side plate back on the reel! tighten down the right side plate bolts, using good mechanical judgement. too little and they will back out on you. too much and you can snap them right off.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0676.JPG)
install the belleville's (key #1455 and 1613) and washer (key #1289) in a "()()|" orientation.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0677.JPG)
install the star drag (key #2002) and friction washer (key #799). add a little grease.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0678.JPG)
install the handle assembly (key #1694) and the handle nut (key #1693). add a little more grease.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0679.JPG)
install the handle nut plate (key #1692) and handle nut plate screw (key #795), wipe off the excess grease and you're done!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0680.JPG)
now a few comments.
regarding the drag washers, i realize that there are some that wish to use the stock dartanium drag washers. that's fine. if they get sticky, simply pull them out, clean them off, grease them and reinstall them. just make sure you work on a hard surface. the dartanium drag washers are as brittle as tortilla chips and will snap if you try to clean them on a soft towel. if you like carbon fiber but prefer your carbon fiber dry, that's fine, too. hopefully there will be a carbontex upgrade available someday. so anything you want to do is fine. it's still my preference to use grease and carbon fiber.
you may have noted that i did not go to any special effort to clean or open up the bearings of this reel. i simply lubed them. i tend to do that with smaller bearings. it's the larger bearings in the lever drag reels that cause the most trouble. i have found that the smaller bearings in the star drag reels tend to be less problematic.
lastly, a word about the anti-reverse roller clutch bearing (key #1207). i keep ten of them in inventory, and they're $10 each. i have noted that they are installed dry from the factory. i've had a fair number of them come in rusted. you'll know that you have a problem when the handle spins backwards. but this is a tough one. the rollers inside this roller bearing are plain steel, not stainless steel. if you install them dry, they will rust. if you load them up with grease, they slip under a heavy load. what to do? well, i've decided to apply a light coat of teflon drag grease to the roller clutch inner tube (key #1206) and a little extra to the inside of the bearing itself. i also sometimes apply grease to the top of the roller bearing assembly before installing the drag star.
the new "B" series calcuttas addressed this problem with the roller bearing by adding an ambassaduer style anti-reverse dog lever. for these old "A" series reels, what should be most helpful is to avoid heavy loads! a surge from sticky drag can suddenly increase (maybe double) your functional drag setting. greased carbon fiber drags will help in this regard. and if you hang up in the rocks, don't button down on the drags until something gives. if you're spooled up with 30 pound spectra, it might not be the knot that gives first! keep a 6 inch section of broomstick with a double layer of electrical tape on deck somewhere to wrap the spectra around, then pull with the stick, not the reel. this should keep the anti-reverse roller bearing from failing prematurely.
QuoteAlan, I took apart my 400B and am having trouble removing the drag plate off of the main gear. I'm assuming there is a burr on the main gear but the space might be too tight to do anything? Any suggestions you can throw me will help. Thanks Alan!!
yes, there is a burr on the drive shaft. you can try three things. first, try to pick out all of the metal and carbon drag washers, then try to file down the burrs on the drive shaft. these burrs are from the two keyed metal washers. second, hold the main gear in your left hand and tap the top of the drive shaft (carefully) with a plastic or wooden dowel to bang it out. third, remove the c-clip holding the drive shaft onto the base plate, then you can flip the assembly over, push down firmly on the main gear and get it popped out easily. can you let me know how it goes? thanks! alan
hey Alan, I'm currently servicing a 400 for a friend of mine. Right off the bat, I can't get the spool shaft out of the right side plate bearing. I can tap the shaft down until it sits flush with the bearing, but I can't pull it past that. The shaft should basically just slide out of the bearing, correct?
I've tried a small punch centered on the end of the shaft, but it isn't getting me anywhere. Am I missing something or is there just a bunch of rust or something holding the spool shaft in?
p.s.-- did you get those c-clips that I sent back to you?
For what its worth, I just completed a drag upgrade on a Calcutta 700a and the procedures were the same with the exception of on extra side plate bolt and one extra drag washer. This site is great!
Mike
The spool shaft end may be flared a bit. Slide the bearing back and gently file around the end of the shaft. Try to remove the bearing.
Repeat if necessary. It does not take much to flare the edge of the end of the shaft. Tapping it down will cause this if not done very carefully.
Jim N.
Quote from: coores14 on March 28, 2012, 11:26:26 PM
hey Alan, I'm currently servicing a 400 for a friend of mine. Right off the bat, I can't get the spool shaft out of the right side plate bearing. I can tap the shaft down until it sits flush with the bearing, but I can't pull it past that. The shaft should basically just slide out of the bearing, correct?
I've tried a small punch centered on the end of the shaft, but it isn't getting me anywhere. Am I missing something or is there just a bunch of rust or something holding the spool shaft in?
p.s.-- did you get those c-clips that I sent back to you?
yes, got 'em! the spool shaft is either flared at the end or just rusted, or both. tap it out and you should be fine. don't forget your avatar!
Quote from: Fishnmike on March 30, 2012, 03:27:33 PM
For what its worth, I just completed a drag upgrade on a Calcutta 700a and the procedures were the same with the exception of on extra side plate bolt and one extra drag washer. This site is great!
Mike
glad everything worked. i sometimes worry that these tutorials will just get guys farther into their reels before they get stuck.
Its really not that difficult if your a little bit mechanically inclined. The tutorials are helpful because they show you what you need to replace/repair versus what's not all that critical.
Hello. i have a old calcutta 400 that need the right side plate, shimano doesent make then anny more, isther another model sideplate that fit that its still abailable?, thanks
saludos.
from everything i've ever seen, i think that side plate is unique.
thanks, thers one for around 19.00 , i think im gona go for that
Hi Alan,
That is a great tutorial, I just finished doing mine and It's smoother than ever. I also have a Corsair CS400A, would this be pretty much the same?
Thanks,
Mark
yup! ;D
Hi, Alan.....(or any familiar).. Which are the thicker bellevilles..the 1455's or the 1613's. and what happens if one puts them in different but still ()(). Thanks, Ken
The 1613 are the light and 1455 are the heavy. Technically it does not matter the order, but I prefer to put the lighter on top, closer to the handle.
Hi Everybody, has anyone on here done the drive shaft bearing upgrade on a 400B? Mine is due for a service; I was thinking about doing the spool shaft bushing and drive shaft bushing upgrades and was wondering if anyone could give me the details of the bearing/washer required for the drive shaft upgrade? I can find a kit on Mikes Reel Repairs but would much rather walk into a shop here in Aus and buy it then wait for it to come from Canada.
Cheers, Ruff
Quote
here's a slick little modification. the plastic bushing that you see here can actually be replaced by a bearing. the dimensions on the bearing/bushing are 5mm id x 11mm od x 3mm ht and the bocabearings.com part # is SMR 685. there's no specific need to replace the bushing. i think it's just slick to have that option.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0659.JPG)
bushing or bearing, either one is fine.
Hi Alan, thanks for the speedy reply. That is the spool shaft bushing (which I will replace); from what I have googled it is possible to replace the drive shaft bushing with a bearing and washer as well. In the schematic it is BNT0819, approx two thirds across the page at the top of the diagram.
Here is the link to the kit (http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/shimano-calcutta-drive-shaft-bearing-upgrade-p-87300.html). I just thought I'd do these two upgrades as part of a service and see how they go. Old mate on one forum had reservations of salt water intrusion, this was his reasoning as to why they are bushings out of the box. I'll just keep the bushings in case they require too much maintenance for my liking.
If I can't track down the dimensions of the kit I will order from Mike's and wait out, ever patiently...
Alan,
I am working on a Calcutta 200A, early 90's model. I upgraded the drag washers with carbon ones from Smooth Drag. Although you said you didn't take the shields off the bearings, I did in mine. There are two bearings and then one plastic bushing on the spool shaft. Everything works well except when I insert the spool shaft into the drive shaft. The spool just seems to be spinning around the bushing for some reason. What do you think is going on?
Thanks!
Chris
here is the schematic. where's the wobble?
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/shimano/Shimano_ct400.pdf
I have the original schematic that came with it. Everything seems to be in the right place. The drive gear and pinion gear engage and turn with no problem. But when I insert the spool shaft into the pinion gear, the pinion and drive gear no longer turn.
I figured out what the problem is. The cross pin on the spool shaft that hold the bushing in place is not sitting inside the two little cut outs on the pinion gear. For some reason the pinion gear won't sit far enough in for the cross pin to lock in.
Quote from: cjinscore on April 07, 2015, 12:48:32 PM
I figured out what the problem is. The cross pin on the spool shaft that hold the bushing in place is not sitting inside the two little cut outs on the pinion gear. For some reason the pinion gear won't sit far enough in for the cross pin to lock in.
Is there any corrosion on the spool shaft to prevent free travel of the pinion?
Do you have your yoke springs on properly to return the pinion onto the cross pin?
Are the yoke springs fatigued? Sometimes a little stretch can prolong their life.
Just some ideas, hang in there. ;)
John
No corrosion. I figured out the problem was the springs because one was missing! Problem was staring me in the face the whole time.. Shimano is sending me two new ones for free, but they are for a Calcutta 100. They did not guarantee they would work. I was just overlooking it. If those springs don't work, anyone have any ideas where to get springs for the 200A model?
Thanks!
Quote from: cjinscore on April 07, 2015, 04:44:39 PM
John
No corrosion. I figured out the problem was the springs because one was missing! Problem was staring me in the face the whole time.. Shimano is sending me two new ones for free, but they are for a Calcutta 100. They did not guarantee they would work. I was just overlooking it. If those springs don't work, anyone have any ideas where to get springs for the 200A model?
Thanks!
Don't stress if the ones they send out cannot be made to work then you should be able to find some easily that will. All they have to be is able to return the pinion. Probably any number of springs from any number of reels can do the job.
Take some good measurements of the one you have left and then some helpful person probably has something that will do.
Ok, so the springs were way too small. What type of measurements should I take of the old spring to see if anyone has a new one?
i should have the springs. if you can send me the height and outside diameter with your address, i will drop a couple into the mail.
Thanks Alan! The height is ~12mm and outside diameter is ~6mm. I say approximately because I don't have a caliper so I just used a measuring tape with mm on it.
in the mail!
Quote from: alantani on April 13, 2015, 09:05:24 PM
in the mail!
Alan,
Received the springs a few days ago. They worked perfectly and the reel is now running like a dream. Thank you very much for getting those to me.
Hey Boss, Merry Christmas! Digging into a 400 I picked up a couple years ago. AR wasn't working, which is probably why I got it cheaply, and sitting in a drawer since. Tore it down, and a shot of Corrosion X in the ARB seems to have it working again. As per your comment about these not being SS- this one came from the beach and by all appearances had never been serviced, so no real surprise there. Appears to be 1990's gen 1 with teak handle- is that an "A", by default? If so, do you have any of the ARB's left? I'd as soon replace it and then I know what I have. If you do, lemme know the damage, and I also need another wrench for the second shop- The Covid Cave :)
if you can measure the inside diameter and height, they will be in millimeters. the outside case will have a minimum and maximum, also in millimeters. let me know and i can get them right out.
I get 10.18 ID; 16.99 OD on the ribs.
height? min and max outside diameters?
it's either 10 x 10 x 16/17 or 10 x 12 x 16/17
height 11.89mm;
got it!
Quote from: alantani on December 22, 2020, 12:09:33 AM
it's either 10 x 10 x 16/17 or 10 x 12 x 16/17
it's the latter. This is kind of embarassing that I didn't read your request better. Part of what I do for a living is QA on packaging dimensions of bottles...ID/OD, thread pattern. That's what happens after you test land-and-groove pattern on a few Belgian ales :)
got it. there are only a couple of options. it was not hard to figure out.
Thanks! Lemme know $
you're good. bring more beer!!!!!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Hi Alan,
I have (I actually have 2) topless 400S that we used to use in Cabo in the late 90's. They were abused and put away dirty and kind of forgotten. I want to use them again and found the first one to be 'almost' frozen. I took everything apart, soaked, cleaned and Corrosion X'ed everything and even the anti reverse bearing seems to be perfect. My problem is that on reassembly the two BNT 1133 Yoke Springs are missing. Don't know where they went. Are they still available and if so can you steer my in the right direction to access a pair, please? I'd really appreciate any guidance you can provide.
That being said, I registered for your site years ago, but never really spent much time here until now. Your site is amazing! It's made me want to dig out an old Pro Gear 454(?) that I tried to change drag washers in years ago and still can't put back together and the Shimano TLD II 20's and 30's 2 speeds that I'd love to find old Tiberon Frames for. Your site has definitely gotten me in the 'maintenence/upgrade' mood for all our well used and loved equipment. Again, thank you.
here are the springs!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-SHIMANO-BAITCASTING-REEL-PART-2-Yoke-Spring-BNT1133-/402653268201
and the post for servicing the reel.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=29.0
the 454 is basically a penn 113h senator.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0
for the old shimano two speeds, i'd recommend a handle upgrade only. the tiburon frames are no longer available.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12789.0
here is the post for servicing the tld two speeds.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=38.0
please keep us posted!!!! ;D
I think the Willfish TLD frames are still available. I have the Willfish frame on my TLD 30II since Tiburon didn't make a topless frame for it at the time.
Hey! I gotta get out there with more beer!!!!
Quote from: alantani on June 24, 2022, 01:39:36 PMhere are the springs!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-SHIMANO-BAITCASTING-REEL-PART-2-Yoke-Spring-BNT1133-/402653268201
and the post for servicing the reel.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=29.0
the 454 is basically a penn 113h senator.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0
for the old shimano two speeds, i'd recommend a handle upgrade only. the tiburon frames are no longer available.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12789.0
here is the post for servicing the tld two speeds.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=38.0
please keep us posted!!!! ;D
Hi Alan, Thanks so much. I ordered the springs this morning. When I tried to put it together without the springs the spool wouldn't engage with the pinion. I'm guessing that the springs are the issue. Can't wait to put the two I have to use on our Albicore here off the Oregon Coast. They were always great fishing live bait in Cabo.
As to the ProGear, I will have to break it out and use your tutorial. It has been awhile, and I know thare might be some small parts missing. Having this one back will be nice too. If I remember right it's a Yellowtail Special.
It will be nice to have something fun to fill my nights when we are off the river. Thanks again. jc
Quote from: MarkT on June 24, 2022, 01:52:16 PMI think the Willfish TLD frames are still available. I have the Willfish frame on my TLD 30II since Tiburon didn't make a topless frame for it at the time.
Thanks so much. I will reach out to Willfish and see what I can arrange. With the only option them doing the work, no chance for me to screw it up :-). I have two 20's and two 30's. I would really like to try the emerging Bluefin fishery here off the coast in Oregon and think they would be perfect, especially with a frame upgrade. jc
I got the 30 frame from Willfish and installed it myself. Same with the Tiburon frame for the 20II.
Quote from: MarkT on June 24, 2022, 09:23:19 PMI got the 30 frame from Willfish and installed it myself. Same with the Tiburon frame for the 20II.
Was that recently? Everything I've read stated that they didn't sell the frame by itself only with installation. I haven't reached out to them yet though. I'll try that next. It would be nice as it probably would save a fair amount of money on four. I know the old Tiburon frames were available for self install. I recently had a great email exchange with them, but my question about availability just brought a nostalgic laugh. I was hoping that they might have a couple stashed somewhere laying around, but no. Oh well. jc
It was years ago when they were selling the frames direct.
Quote from: jcarufo on June 24, 2022, 08:40:54 PMQuote from: alantani on June 24, 2022, 01:39:36 PMhere are the springs!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-SHIMANO-BAITCASTING-REEL-PART-2-Yoke-Spring-BNT1133-/402653268201
and the post for servicing the reel.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=29.0
the 454 is basically a penn 113h senator.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0
for the old shimano two speeds, i'd recommend a handle upgrade only. the tiburon frames are no longer available.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12789.0
here is the post for servicing the tld two speeds.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=38.0
please keep us posted!!!! ;D
Hi Alan, Thanks so much. I ordered the springs this morning. When I tried to put it together without the springs the spool wouldn't engage with the pinion. I'm guessing that the springs are the issue. Can't wait to put the two I have to use on our Albicore here off the Oregon Coast. They were always great fishing live bait in Cabo.
As to the ProGear, I will have to break it out and use your tutorial. It has been awhile, and I know thare might be some small parts missing. Having this one back will be nice too. If I remember right it's a Yellowtail Special.
It will be nice to have something fun to fill my nights when we are off the river. Thanks again. jc
Okay, springs came and everthing is installed and reassembled. Everything seems to work, spool spins forever in free spool, drag works great. The only issue I seem to be having is as I crank there is an ongoing, subtle, bump, bump, bump, bump, bump, bump. Almost like the anti-reverse pawl rubbing over the anti-reverse ratchet as I turn the handle. I made sure the ratchet was on the 'square' before I slid the drive gear down, but I noticed at least a little side to side movement of the drive shaft as I assembled everything. Don't know what I could have done wrong. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you. jc
look for something stuck in the gear teeth.
Quote from: alantani on June 27, 2022, 05:33:05 AMlook for something stuck in the gear teeth.
Gear teeth are clean. The 'slight hesitation' is noted equidistant, 8 or 9 times in one complete revolution of the reel handle. If that makes sense. Other than that everything is fine. I did the same thing to both reels. One is totally smooth, the other not. It's driving me crazy looking for 'something' I'm obviously missing.
Quote from: alantani on June 27, 2022, 05:33:05 AMlook for something stuck in the gear teeth.
You obviously have done this once or twice before :-). I took the reel down one more time and low and behold found a tiny burr on the edge of the pinion. It made total sense that every time the pinion revolved it would cause the bump/hesitation. I took a small diamond file to smooth out the area and it's now perfect and as smooth as the other one. I can't thank you enough. This is a great site. Knowing now that I have a place to seek help if I have an issue, I can't wait to start my next (454?) reel project. By the way, if I need parts, do I just used 113h parts or try to access parts from ProGear?
Have a Great Day!
Jean
Jose Wejebe (Spanish Fly host) sold me my first 400 in the 90's, he was at the Long Beach Fishing Show,about my age/ Jose was working for Shimano and we chatted a bit, I was a huge fan of his RIP Jose. What is the most popular reel now (2023)?