Reel Repair by Alan Tani

So I keep circling back mentally to the recent experience at the shop. Specifically that the person who was strongly in favor of mono backing to avoid slipping, tying an arbor knot with braid that ultimately failed completely. Not slipping on the spool, the tag end slipped thru and the knot was history. Complete failure.

I've been beating around the bush here because I hate insulting anyone. The point I'm circling around is that he felt that mono was necessary to prevent slipping, because he might not be that good at tying knots in general.

Thanks Joe for the thoughtful reply.  I think I better understand where you are going with this.

I think that  following observation is useful for a successful arbor knot:

If you tie the arbor knot to tighten as you wind, the line tension increases the grip on the arbor.  BUT...  with a fuller spool,  the friction between all the wraps prevents any pulling load from reaching the arbor. And since braid has very little stretch compared to nylon, once the spool is filled, there is little residual tension in the line to pull on the knot.  So the arbor knot just sits there,  probably a bit less tight then when we started and not getting any tighter when we pull line from the filled spool.

Now the effect of pulling on the line is  more  like gripping the arbor knot and its coils with a pair of channel locks and turning  the whole tie off around the arbor.   

The trick that seems to works for me is wrapping over the tag end as Jerry Brown recommended, and is shown in the video below.

Not exactly certain as to why it might work, but I think that the compressive load from the fill presses the tag against the arbor  at many points along the axis instead  of around the axis. The knot cannot rotate without taking the sideways tag with it.

My theory was  that the specific knot is not as important as wrapping over the tag properly.   But to be honest, I haven't done any rigorous testing to prove that the tag (or knot) is the key vs just doing a better job on the spool fill.  I tried it all together. Too much work to do a bunch of spool fills to prove a theory.


-J

Looks like 11:30 pm tonight so you still have a few hours.

Here is the screw for that 2052, Steve —-

Along with a bail spring.

This is basic reel repair 101 —- errors that most of us have done at one time, or another.

We figure since the reel is cruddy inside —- that the 5/16" hex head steel screw is just stuck to the bronze main gear.

So we force it since we have it in a socket or a nut driver —- not realizing until too late that it goes on counter-clockwise and comes off clockwise.

Screw snaps off in the main.

When disassembling vintage reels —- always be aware of this possibility of a reverse-threaded keeper screw.

Tread carefully, because these are not easy parts to find anywhere, for any price — without some effort, and luck, and waiting.

Send me your address, and I will send it out tomorrow.  N/C.

Best, Fred

and when did they make these 900 reels then later series 4420,4430,4440...I also have 300 Pro came with wooden box ,the handle quickly broke so I have to use regular handle on it

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PJ

(Admins if this post is not allowed please delete)

welcome!!!!

Quote from: oc1 on March 31, 2024, 06:19:52 AMDid you ever point your rod tip down (like when fishing from a pier) and have the Mitchell 300 push button spool fall off and into the water?

Say buddy, what are you doing? I'm fishing for a spool.

Welcome, good to have you here.  Bill

Certainly a very logical way to approach the problem, and it looks to me like you are experiencing some significant success. Cant wait to read about pouring baits.
The Man