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#1
Quote from: jurelometer on Today at 07:51:24 AMI would suggest to start with what we know: 

1.  It is not too difficult to make an arbor knot that holds very tight (your tests). But the arbor knot only holds when the standing end is under tension.  Ergo, if the arbor knot is slipping, it must no longer be under tension.

2. This problem does not occur with nylon, so what is different about nylon?  First off, nylon stretches much more than braid.  That extra stretch m might be providing a reservoir of tension.  Also nylon has a match higher coefficient of friction, so it will stick to spool better.  Nylon also tends to dig in less than braid. But there are other differences as well.

3.  The slipping problem tends to happen more frequently when the spool is not packed tightly. Loose pack means less elastic tension, and more braid digging in.

———-

Unfortunately, this problem is happening deep in the spool, so while it is easy to observe that it is happening, it is hard to observe how it is happening.

For example, here is a non-obvious hypothesis:  When a solid piece of plastic with a hole in the center expands when heated,  the diameter of the hole also expands proportionally. If the line loaded on the spool behaves like it solid piece of plastic, then the line filled indoors and then taken outdoors may no longer be tight to the arbor.  BTW, the coefficient of thermal expansion for the plastic used to make braid is about twice that of the plastic used to make nylon fishing line.

But this is just one of many hypotheses.  It could be something more obvious, like not getting the bottom layers tight.  Or there could be multiple ways to cause it.  Who knows?

Not sure how to get to the bottom of this  without doing a lot of spool fills.


-J


The way I read this is, Arbor knot with no mention of dead ending the standing end .
3.  The slipping problem tends to happen more frequently when the spool is not packed tightly. Loose pack means less elastic tension, and more braid digging in.

If the standing end is dead headed , and loose wrap spool slips sooner or later it should stop when it catches up with the dead head .
#2
Shimano Tutorials and Questions / Tranx roller clutch
Last post by mike1010 - Today at 06:15:17 PM
I'm servicing a buddy's 300.  Has anybody replaced one of roller clutches?  Is it just the usual push-it-out-with-a-socket exercise, or is there some voodoo involved.  I ask because the schematic for the 300 cautions that the part is "not replaceable by the customer."  Thanks for any guidance.

--Mike
#3
Max Out with Maxed Out / Re: Pro Gear Albacore Special
Last post by Maxed Out - Today at 05:47:59 PM
 Shipping to USA only
#4
Penn / Re: Tuning a Penn Spinfisher
Last post by slugmeister - Today at 05:41:26 PM
Well I'll be. I shot an offer on a 714z, and they actually accepted it. $60 plus shipping is more than I wanted to pay, but it's way cheaper than any others listed online. I'll get to play with that soon and hopefully have some more notes on spinfisher's soon. Chances are I'm going to sell both my 712's, I just don't like them much.
#5
Quote from: Midway Tommy on Today at 04:11:03 PMMan, you guys are diggin' deep into this subject.  😱

My solution is to fish only open face spinners, not use braid and not go after fish so big that they could spin the line at the bottom of a fully filled spool. 😉 😂
:)  :)  I am with you on that .  If I tie a main stream arbor knot on a smooth spool, it`s like a old lady walking on a icy sidewalk .    >:D  >:D  Yer I can`t get these guys to spin the line at the bottom of a fully filled spool ether .  :D  :D " Playful banter"
#6
Thinning the heard. I'm reluctantly posting my new in box Pro Gear Albacore special pg280C-7. A beat up 280 recently sold on eBay for $250. They aren't easy to find nowadays in any condition. Includes packaged clamp, lube, and factory schematic. I bought this couple years ago and paid more than my asking price

$250+$14 shipping
#7
A facebook fishing group here local is having a huge get together BBQ and swap meet.  I am literally taking crates of reels to sell off.

I am getting to the point where I am the anti-hoarder. If I haven't fished it in the last five years, it's going.

I need money to keep working on my old house anyway. I won a shotgun in a raffle so now I have to sell that too,lol.
#8
Fishing Antiques and Collectables / Penn 500SL
Last post by bassmagnum - Today at 05:00:45 PM
Is the SL a designation of the black Penn aluminum spool and just the S the red aluminum spool?
Thanks
#9
Size does not matter  ;)



My daughter shamed her lackadaisical fisherman husband (he is a avid hunter) into buying a real fishing reel.... ;D and the shop he got it at spooled the ABU5601 poorly.  I was visiting and I took the never used reel apart and found nothing that would keep the drag from working.  I did not have access to a line winder so I went up to their airstrip (bush planes) walked the line off, respooled it TIGHT and problem solved.


I am more concerned about preventing line from spinning on the spool and we have several methods that work but I find it interesting seeing some here trying to figure out what is causing it.   10 years ago Jerry Brown told me that I should spool at 10#, Alan's method based on the reels drag can be much higher.   I occasionally strip my reels and repack the line and have seen wavy line on the spool about 1/2 way down and assume it is caused by loose spooling.  Alan can get 2x the drag with his winder but once I started spooling tight with a winder I have not noticed it.  I have a 3 day on the Intrepid in mid May and have to put paying repair aside and get my reels serviced and repacked this week.
#10
Man, you guys are diggin' deep into this subject.  😱

My solution is to fish only open face spinners, not use braid and not go after fish so big that they could spin the line at the bottom of a fully filled spool. 😉 😂