I just purchased a Squidder 140 reel. The reel has two spools, one aluminum and one plastic. I have never used a plastic spool on any of my Penn reels so I am not familiar with them. I want to use the plastic spool for long distance casting. I have heard that the plastic spool will crack when spooled with mono. I usually use braid anyway (this is for fishing) and would like to load the plastic spool with 40lb (braid)....is that ok and does it require mono backing to keep the braid from slipping on the spool or should I use tape for the purpose?
Some (all?) of the 140 plastic spools were designed with an "air brake" 3 fins on one side of the spool to slow things down as an anti backlash device. For a distance caster IDK
if that would be a detriment. I can't advise you on that only inform you.
Thanks for the comeback Cuttyhunker...I appreciate that. After about 7 hours of searching this forum for the answer to my question..and finding it... I have decided on keeping the mono with a braid backing on the Aluminum spool and running straight braid on the plastic spool with a bit of tape to seal the deal. So, problem solved.
I like this fella already, he's fighting the good fight. I too am trying to show that braid on a conventional and distance casting are not mutually exclusive.
JasonGottaProblem:
I always use braid on all my fishing reels, but I wanted to try mono just to see. I grew up with the old "fabric" lines and just considered them to be "the" fishing line...never really used mono for anything but catching small baitfish with a spinner. I use Delmar and Long Beach reels with braid for fishing and can cast 50-60 to 70 yards (once hit 80 yards with a stiff wind at my back) and for my fishing that is just fine. Now that I have the Squidder 140 I just wanted to see if I could "reach out and touch someone" and cast 100 yards. I think that a medium heavy 12" rod, Squidder with 40 lb braid, and 4 to 6 ounces may do it...but only time will tell. If you have any pointers for me I would like to hear them. I need all the help I can get!
Braid for long casting with conventional overhead reels is not a good idea, with a heavy cast, the braid will dig in & the braid will snap, loosing your rig, If you have a plastic reel, wind the monofiliment on, on a cold day, so the line wont stretch, if it stretches on a warm day, then it will shrink, & crush the plastic spool, just my 2 cents worth, but I will strand correcting, cheers Don.
Thanks Don;
I use a shock leader (mono) with all my braid line reels and have never had an issue. I have cast up to 12 oz weights + bait with that set up and it holds well. I will make note of that "cold" wind technique you speak of, but for now I think I will keep the mono on the aluminum spool...just for getting a feel for the setup...will probably change over to braid there too...eventually.
On spool expansion: Mono has a lot of elasticity. When it stretches, it gets skinnier, just like pulling on a rubber band. After you wind it back on the reel, it is no being longer pulled on, so it tries to stretch back to its original diameter. This takes up more lateral space, creating pressure on the sides of the spool. I think that the mono damaged plastic and chrome plated brass spools was more load related than temperature.
Back in the pre-spectra days, we used to toss those plastic Squidder and Jigmaster spools, as they blew up way to easily with mono. Not many folk were casting Dacron any more, so the plastic spools were considered worthless. But braid does not expand too much. And a lightweight spool is one the most important attributes of a good casting reel.
If I ended up with a plastic spool Squidder now, I would definitely give it a shot with modern braid. 65 lb works nice in my little plastic ("graphite") spool Newell, which is about the same size as a Squidder. I do get the occasional frightening backlash, but have been able to clear them all so far. Not sure that I would want to run 30. I get too excited sometimes when I am chucking at boiling fish and can overdo it on the cast :). Thinner line is also more likely to dig in during the cast, as Don noted.
I quit using tape on the spool arbor for braid. I now use a version of what Jerry Brown recommended: a few extra wraps on the spool before the arbor knot, leave a bit longer tag on the knot, and wind over the tag on the first layer as you fill the spool. Not a problem with a plastic spool, but tape introduces a corrosion risk by trapping water on metal spools.
-J
We are entering opinion territory because I have nothing but personal experience and seemingly sound logic to back up the following:
I am finding that the risk of line digging and snapping is massively alleviated by winding the line onto the spool with a bit more of a cross wrapping angle than what is used when winding on mono. They are different types of line, made out of different material, with different behaviors. Why would we assume treating them the same is the way to get best results?
If you think about it, the cross wrapping makes it much harder for line to get between the loops of line already on the spool.
Let's be clear, there are casting records out there. The fact that NONE of them have been set with braid over mono is enough for me to concede that mono is likely better for distance casting than braid.
Butttttt i still hate mono. I hate tying it, i hate setting hooks with it, and i hate untangling it. Knock on wood ive only gotten one ratnest in the past year bad enough to cut off because i couldn't free it. And that was 20# braid that was way overloaded on the spool, so some had to come off anyway.
Back when I was still attempting to use mono, i can count on one hand the ratnests i could free without cutting it. God forbid i actually wanted to catch a fish with one of those casts.
Can you tell I have a strong opinion?
Thanks Jurelometer;
I find it interesting...so many opinions...so many options....keep em coming.
I have had good success with fabric/modern braids over the years. I find them easier to cast, easier to knot and easier to untangle than mono...may be habit, or maybe I need to fish more mono to get used to it....naw.... its hard to teach an old dog new tricks...I feel "comfortable" with braid!
One thing I do is spray my braid down with CRC Food Grade Silicone. I do that as I load the spool and then give the used line a spray after each fishing trip. The braid lasts forever, seems to make that first cast flow off the spool better,and, I have fewer birds nests and they seem to be easier to unravel. The silicone spray doesn't seem to have a negative effect on the braid and when the braid looks a little ratty on top I just back spool the reel and I have fresh braid from the bottom of the spool taking the place of the used braid from the top of the spool.....and I have not had any corrosion on my metal spools. I treated one spool that way and the braid was on there 4 years...no corrosion....and no slipping of the braid on the spool as well.
JasonGottaProblem;
I have watched competitive casting on you tube...extraordinary feats...but I am a fisherman and if I can get 100 yard casts I am more than happy and I think that is doable with the right rod and reel for the purpose...........and BRAID!!! LOL!
I too hate mono. To me it's only good for leaders. It ages too quickly. Casting a conventional or baitcaster with mono. can be memory-miserable. Yeah braid costs more, but look how long it lasts.
Gfish; I use mono for shock leaders, that is it.....but, I have not had a shock leader birds nest... yet! So, I guess it is good for something. I am going to try out my new to me Squidder with mono...am I scared...you betcha!
Great "thread" on line (see what I did there? ;D ). In my experience it's a pretty personal choice, and I suspect it might have a lot to do with the age/generation of the fisherman and what they grew up with and were used to using. Myself, I freely go back and forth between mono and braid depending on reels and applications; I really don't have any aversions one way or another. But I will say: there is mono, and then there is mono I've used box store brands that worked great (admittedly rare) but I have also used top name brands that were just miserable (to me) for things like memory and stretch. Oddly enough, back when the "superlines" came out (you know, the ones with the diameter of angel hair, the abrasion resistance of rebar, and the visibility of a stealth fighter at night) I went all in and promptly spent the $$$$ to put several miles of 10# test on my 4200SS ultralight (hey! it has the same diameter as 2# mono! It will fit!) It lasted two trips before I lost my temper and removed it and went back to my trusty Trilene 4#. Was it the lines fault? Probably not, but it just didn't work for me in my application (you name it - ever other cast was a wind knot, snarl, or other complication.) I suspect for someone that is waaaaay into line performance, specific lines have characteristics that lend themselves to certain techniques (unlike the manufacturers that would like us to believe they have THE line that is optimum for ALL conditions.) - john
Brewcrafter;
I see what you did there!
I dont like to cut down anybodies product but there is one mono line for my bait catching spinning reels that I have used in the past...a "name" brand that had a memory like an elephant. I have this little tool that I can attach to my line and as you cast it will take the memory out of mono...it kind of works opposite the coil direction as you pull it through the water and straightens the line out after a few long casts. The only mono it never worked with was that "name" brand!
I can tell you what I have used for the last 8 years (when it first hit the market or thereabouts) and have had great success with is KastKing Super Power main line and Trilene mono for shock leaders and rigs. Never had a line failure, very little if any memory with the Trilene, and the braid to mono knots (I use an improved Albright knot) have never failed me....its like they were made for each other for my application. I fish some pretty rough conditions (Mississippi and Missouri rivers, and some lakes, and backwaters, and sloughs off the rivers) and that combination has held up well.
But like you say, certain techniques and uses, and cost effectiveness play a part in the line we choose. Whats good for the goose is not necessarily good for the gander.
I have decided to go with 40 lb Super Power with a Trilene 50 lb shock leader for the plastic spool on my Squidder, start off with 3 to 4 oz weights see where that leads. I hope to try the mono on the aluminum spool and braid on the plastic spool the same day...that "take down" option on the Squidder sure is sweet.
Have you considered a Newell spool for your squidder ?
Maxed Out; No I have not. I have always fished the Penns as they were made....no custom parts, etc.....except the drags (Carbontex). What would the Newel spool offer that the Penn spools dont?
Just about any of the regular brand name monos cast well on a conventional once the line has a chance to absorb some water. Nylon absorbs a ton of water and does it readily. Water absorption makes mono much limper. If you have a stiffer mono on your spool, you just need to take it easy for the first couple of casts.
Some folk soak the spool in advance, but mono equalizes with the air humidity so quickly that there is not a huge advantage in doing this in many situations. And soaking for a long time is no different than for a short time, as the nylon will quickly absorb or shed water to match the surrounding environment.
The "memory" on mono coils is not temporary and fully reversible. The set in the mono coils comes from what the material science guys call creep. Plastics are elastic, meaning they will spring back when stretched, but if stretched too far, or held in a stretched position too long, elasticity is lost, and the part (or in this case, line) is permanently deformed.
The circumference at the outside of a coil is longer than at the inside. If the line is wound and held under tension for (not very) long, it creeps more at the outside of the coil than the inside, forming those persistent coils. You can't undo the creep. You can over-stretch the line straight, which will remove the coil, but will make the line thinner. Creep /re-creep from repeated coil reforming under load is one of the causes for mono to weaken over time (the primary cause is UV exposure). Creep is also why mono knots can fail over time. Braid knots usually fail for entirely different reasons.
Tools to help with coils on winding are attempting to remove twists. They can't undo creep. Twist is usually less of a problem with conventional reels.
And I would wager that Jason and Greg are outliers. For casting conventional reels, most will find mono much more manageable, especially for clearing backlashes. Just remember to let the line get wet before getting too enthusiastic on the cast. If you are practicing on dry ground, then pouring some water on the line a few times will help.
Quote from: Maxed Out on June 28, 2023, 05:57:43 PMHave you considered a Newell spool for your squidder ?
Oooh. Good call!
-J
Jurelometer; Noted!
I saw a video on you tube...a fella had a Penn 14/0 Senator, I believe it was, in the shop and the mono was wound so tight on the spool that it warped the spool! That was the "creep" you speak of?
Quote from: Flat Top on June 28, 2023, 06:03:48 PMMaxed Out; No I have not. I have always fished the Penns as they were made....no custom parts, etc.....except the drags (Carbontex). What would the Newel spool offer that the Penn spools dont?
Newell spools are much lighter and very sturdy, and spin like a top
Quote from: Flat Top on June 28, 2023, 07:32:06 PMJurelometer; Noted!
I saw a video on you tube...a fella had a Penn 14/0 Senator, I believe it was, in the shop and the mono was wound so tight on the spool that it warped the spool! That was the "creep" you speak of?
Nope. Creep makes coils, elasticity blow out spools. You will get some combination of the two as you wind mono onto the spool under load.
Creep is a permanent deformation. The part of a the line closest to the outside of the coil has permanently stretched out. There is next to no stored energy from creep/permanent deformation. That is why the coils stay coiled.
The spools blow out from elasticity (a temporary deformation). When you stretch the line (by reeling under tension) it can only get longer by getting thinner. The stretching stores energy in the line, just like stretching a rubber band. After the tension is gone, the stored energy in the line from stretching is going to be applied to un-stretching. Each wrap on the spool is pushing outward in order to return to the original diameter and length. Wrap pushes against wrap until the the last wrap pushes against the side of the spool. Now do this layer upon layer, as you fill the spool. With multiple layers at higher winding load, enough stress can be generated to blow out a plastic spool, or warp a chrome platted brass spool. Aluminum spools are usually fine when used within the reel's recommended line size.
-J
A Newell spool is a little lighter than the 140 plastic spool and a bunch lighter than the chrome brass spool. A don't have a Penn aluminum 140 spool to compare. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade for casting
Maxed Out, Swami805; Thanks! I may want to look into that!
Jurelometer; That is a good reason right there to stay away from mono on conventional reels. In the field, how can one judge how much tension is on the spool? How much tension can any spool withstand? The whole thing sounds pretty iffy to me.
I chose to load my Squidder spool with the KastKing Tripolymer, which is "supposed" to be a low stretch (12% less) mono, low memory as well...excellent reviews....First use, so I dont know how good it will be....I am wondering if that would negate the spool warp factor a bit?
Those plastic spools are from way back in the days before mono when linen line was the bees knees! Stick with an aluminum (or graphite) spool unless you're displaying the reel on the shelf.
Thanks Mark; I guarantee you it will be a "user".
Quote from: Flat Top on June 29, 2023, 01:13:26 AMMaxed Out, Swami805; Thanks! I may want to look into that!
Jurelometer; That is a good reason right there to stay away from mono on conventional reels. In the field, how can one judge how much tension is on the spool? How much tension can any spool withstand? The whole thing sounds pretty iffy to me.
I chose to load my Squidder spool with the KastKing Tripolymer, which is "supposed" to be a low stretch (12% less) mono, low memory as well...excellent reviews....First use, so I dont know how good it will be....I am wondering if that would negate the spool warp factor a bit?
Mono shouldn't be an issue with a stock aluminum spool. I used to wind it so tight on Jigmasters that I was shredding gears, but never blew out an aluminum spool. You can decide in advance that you don't want to like mono, but I bet that you are still gonna like it if you are casting it wet :) I don't think that getting the line wet is a big deal, because that is something that you have to do anyways if you are actually fishing.
As for KastKing "tripolymer": They say right on the front of box "not fluorocarbon, not monofilament", and then call it "advanced monofilament" as well - right on the same front of the same box! Plus fluorocarbon fishing line is also a monofilament. Monofilament simply means one filament. In other words, what they are saying is "our monofilament is not monofilament or monofilament". Arrgh!
I wish that they would respect us enough to work a bit harder on the bamboozling. It may be good line, and you may like it, but I personally would have zero interest in anything that KastKing has to say about it. And of course the fishing press just regurgitates the same marketing babblespeak.
All modern nylon monofilament fishing lines are a blend of different flavors of nylon. You just gotta try it, or listen to somebody that you trust that has used it.
-J
Jurelometer; One thing my father used to say was: "never trust the word of a salesman or a politician". Every manufacturer tries to promote their product as the best thing since bread and butter and its up to the consumer make the call.
I am going to keep an open mind on this and will try the mono and the braid before I before I decide what I am going to go with...or I might just go with both. Its nice to have options.
I don't own a Newell squidder spool, but just for the record....a jigmaster 500L spool weighs 3.9 oz, and a Newell 500L spool weighs 2.9 oz
Maxed Out; those are both aluminum spools?
That is remarkable.....I wonder how the Newell spool compares in weight to the plastic spool....if I didnt have mine full of line I could weigh it...I hope somebody will chime in here. I have been pricing Newell spools for the Squidder...they are almost as much as I paid for the reel.
Quote from: Flat Top on June 29, 2023, 06:43:38 PMThat is remarkable.....I wonder how the Newell spool compares in weight to the plastic spool....if I didnt have mine full of line I could weigh it.
Squidder 140 plastic spool weighs 2.4 oz
Sounds like the Newell spool is a winner....near the weight of plastic and twice (at least) the strength. May be worth the investment if I decide I want to really reach out there. I will use what I have and go from there...........
Keep in mind, I gave you comparison weights for jigmaster spools. The squidder Newell spool will weigh less than the jigmaster Newell spool because the squidder spool is smaller diameter
Thanks Maxed Out!!!
Newell made both "graphite' and aluminum spools. Don't know if they offered both for the Squidder. But the graphite spools are the magic ones, IMHO.
-J
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned anything, about trying to add some sort of mag to this reel, especially with having an aluminum spool already there!
The plastic spools, you can actually hear them hum inside the reel, from the fins, but hope you have an educated thumb!
I've literally burned my thumb off, trying to slow down some of these reels midflight!
The crisscross pattern works very well with the braid, to help against digging in too!
I have much better luck, casting with monofilament, but have braid on some of my casting reels as well too!
As to the reason, you never really hear braided lines setting any records, is very simple lol! In just about every professional distance casting tournament association across the world, they are simply not recognize or allowed to be used!
Monofilament only, must use a shock leader and mainline, all set to different parameters and diameters, for different casting classes and categories!
All the lines get measured and you must use leads, that are provided by whatever association you're casting with!
So basically, they all cast out and walk over and lay their rods down on top of one another, until everybody's done casting and gets their cast measured!
Then they all walk out together, while reeling in, to retrieve their leads, and must find any leads, that have cracked off!
Now, can you imagine everybody doing that with braided lines? And all the monofilament lines must be high visibility!
Imagine casting out and losing 2 to 300 yards of braided line, 3 or four times?
That would be insanely costly, not to imagine, trying to find them and how easy they tangle with each other, when they're super thin!
Never seen graphite newell spools for squidders, they made a few by mistake for jigmaster 500s. Love to get my hands on a graphite 140 spool or 146 even better
Quote from: Swami805 on June 30, 2023, 01:19:43 AMNever seen graphite newell spools for squidders, they made a few by mistake for jigmaster 500s. Love to get my hands on a graphite 140 spool or 146 even better
Or instead of a 146, you could pick up a Newell 220 with a graphite spool, and have something like an Accurate Magnum Squidder, only better - and very light. Higher speed gears and all. I bought a 220 for a frame project that never got going, but now I lurve that 220 more than any other reel that I own. Even if it has the aesthetics of Cold War era Soviet military issue :)
-J
Yeah I like Newells too
Jurelometer; I did a search for Penn Squidder 140 Graphite Spool...but had no luck.
ExcessiveAngler; I have watched casting competitions (video's) but did not know that mono was mandatory. 300+ yards is impressive, and I believe they need to "stay between the lines" when they do it...not a lot of room for error. Talented group of people. I believe that braid, will outcast mono, but not sure of that because up to this point I have used nothing but Dacron and modern braid. I have my new Squidder spooled with 30 lb mono (dia .017) and with 40 lb braid (dia .016) so that right there is a plus....greater strength/same diameter with the braid...less wind resistance with braid as well.....or so it is said. I have an educated thumb...can cast my Delmar and Long Beach reels with no issues, and when I get the occasion birds nest I can free it up with no problem...took me longer to learn how to do that than it did to educate my thumb.
Swami805; IMPRESSIVE collection.....and I am sure you fish every one of them?
Quote from: Swami805 on June 30, 2023, 04:07:41 AMYeah I like Newells too
Lordy, Lordy lol!
Quite an impressive collection there!
I would have to say that's an understatement for sure lol!
Seems more like you're addicted to them, if you ask me lol!
Damn, that's a lot of Newell reels, right there! I don't think I've seen that many together, at one time lol!
Didn't even realize they manufactured them in that many colors, either!
What are the purple custom reels, I really like those!
Quote from: Flat Top on June 30, 2023, 12:57:38 PMI have my new Squidder spooled with 30 lb mono (dia .017) and with 40 lb braid (dia .016) so that right there is a plus....greater strength/same diameter with the braid...
Another can of worms. Unlike mono, PE braid diameter doesn't mean much, because it changes as it is stretched and squished to be measured, and it flattens out as well - so no round cross section. There is a Japanese industry standard PE rating (I can't find out the methodology) that helps you estimate spool capacity, and compare one braid against another, but not against mono.
Using spool capacity is a better gauge of the relative thickness of the lines. Just guessing, but 40 pound solid braid probably gives you somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.5 to 3 times the capacity of 30 pound mono. There are folk here that probably have a more accurate estimate.
I think that it is pretty well accepted that 20 pound is the ideal mono for casting and fishing with a Squidder. The reel is not strong enough to take advantage of 30, 20 casts farther, and the capacity is about right. Braid is going to be a compromise between usability, casting distance, and avoiding putting an insane amount of line on the reel. I would expect that if you asked for recommendations, 65 would be more common.
Let us know your impressions after casting!
-J
Jurelometer;
KastKing says their 40lb Super Power is .012 dia. I measure it as it comes off the spool and comes out at about .016 or so......I am sure the factory testing methodology is at play and they measure the diameter under load and repeated settling of the fibers, as most braided lines are measured. Just for grins I took my 40 lb Super Power and stretched and relaxed it a few times to let the fibers settle and put 10 lbs of tension on the braid and it measured .013. I let the test piece sit for about a half hour...remeasured and it was back to .016......evidently the KastKing factory uses the standard procedure for measuring braid line that is used industry wide.
I will keep you posted on my success, or lack of it, after I give the reel a good work out.
Quote from: Flat Top on June 30, 2023, 09:03:41 PMJurelometer;
KastKing says their 40lb Super Power is .012 dia. I measure it as it comes off the spool and comes out at about .016 or so......I am sure the factory testing methodology is at play and they measure the diameter under load and repeated settling of the fibers, as most braided lines are measured. Just for grins I took my 40 lb Super Power and stretched and relaxed it a few times to let the fibers settle and put 10 lbs of tension on the braid and it measured .013. I let the test piece sit for about a half hour...remeasured and it was back to .016......evidently the KastKing factory uses the standard procedure for measuring braid line that is used industry wide.
I will keep you posted on my success, or lack of it, after I give the reel a good work out.
Mono is hard and consistently round, so it has an actual useful diameter. Braid is a loose weave, not hard, and not round, so it has no diameter. No circle, no diameter. Math is a cruel master :) They make something up and call it a diameter. They probably figure out which diameter of mono would fill the same spool with roughly the same number of yards as the braid, and provide that as the braid's "effective diameter" with some sort of fudge factor to meet their product marketing goals. The "equivalent mono" column in those tables that they are so fond of match up with this theory.
But you can't measure the external dimensions of braid at home or in a factory, and get an actual diameter. Unlike mono, the area of a cross section of braid is highly variable.
PE rating is the way to go. I wish is was listed more frequently.
Looking forward to your casting findings. If you have a chance, put a 80 yard topshot of 20lb mono on one of the spools and give that a go as well.
-J
Mulling this one over - what about hollow braid? I would think that due to the nature of the beast it has to be round in some state, but then again any attempt to measure it will "crush" it and certainly under load it will lose diameter/gain length (hence why those Chinese Finger Trap splices work so well). And while it is on a spool, it certainly cannot be round. But then again, as I think about it my spools of Izorline Dacron are most definitely hollow AND are most definitely flat as well...- john
I think you measure a line around the outside of the fibers, convert that to the circumference of a circle and come up with a diameter that way. I don't know, all of it seems like fuzzy gorilla math/science anyway
Jurelometer; I think its apple to oranges (mono vs braid). Each line has its negative and positive properties, and methods of measurement, etc. I have found that for my purposes a combination of braid main line and mono shock leader serve those purposes very well. I have the shock leader which protects the main line (braid) from stress during hard casting and protects the main line from abrasion (as I said before I fish some pretty gnarly spots). The braid offers me a smaller diameter than mono of the same # which aids in casting and I have a near direct link to the fish because of it minimal stretch. My buddy uses mono and yes he catches fish....my hook up rate is much greater than his and I attribute that to the braid main line. What I am looking for is 100 yards with my 40 lb braid/50 lb mono shock leader set up and if I can get that I will be a happy camper....if not I will have to reconsider this undertaking.
Brewcrafter, Swami805, Juleromoter: There have been exhaustive tests by Sportfishing Magazine, IGFA, you tubers, etc, on line diameters, stretch rates, line strengths, knot strengths, abrasion resistance of both mono and braid...interesting reading/viewing. How it relates to real world use of both lines is up to the individual fisherman. What may work in one setting may not work in another...what works best for me may not work for you....so we have to go with what we got! One thing for sure, if I find a better way of doing this I will jump on it in a New York minute!
Got the Squidder 140 out this morning but only for a few minutes (hot and humid...miserable). I took three casts easy and gentle, more of a lob than a cast across a baseball field in the park...the field is 66 yards wide. Using the plastic spool with 40 lb braid (KastKing Super Power) and a 50 lb Trilene Big Game shock leader, a 3 oz weight, and a 12' medium heavy rod, the cast easily made it across that field! I was amazed at the ease at how the Squidder casts... easy to control, and just a very light thumb pressure at the end of the cast...no birds nest. This reel is SWEET and I can see why it is so popular.
I still have some testing to do...aluminum spool, mono, etc, but I will wait till I get to the lake where I really have some room to let it rip! I will measure the casting distance with a line counter, but so far 100 yards looks easy!
So here's a question? So,now that I have the 140L and 146L, what to do!
And I have two plastic spools for the 140 one brand new in the small box, and one with Dacron on it, so I was thinking!
Has anybody ever made a mag kit, like they did for the Daiwa slosh's with the graphite spools? That Daiwa kit came with an aluminum washer, you could glue to the spool, so you could mag it!
I'm thinking the 140 reel, will cast much further with the lighter plastic spool!
I was like to mag, one or both of these reels, but not sure if I want to mess them up aesthetically, to do so?
For myself, personally! I would like to have some braking options, other than just the use of my thumb lol!
I haven't had either one of these a part yet, except I popped the side plate off the 146! It's pretty darn neat, one screw with a twist and the whole handle side is off the reel, and looks pretty darn good inside!
I don't know, maybe I can get away with just using straight 30 pound mono, as the main line on the 140 with the plastic spool
Not sure, what to do yet, after I service them, and hopefully have no problems lol!
And you said you're using 40 pound braid on your 140, brave man lol!
ExcessiveAngler; Just my opinion, but the 140 really doesnt need a mag set up...it casts like a dream. If you are worried about slicing your thumb you can thumb the spool, not the line, or wear some kind of thumb protector. I make my own out of pig skin and after it is sewn, wet down, and shrunk to fit my thumb it works like a champ...it is a very thin hide, is tough, and has great feel.
I was going to use mono on my plastic spool but decided against it. I have seen metal spools distorted from mono line and did not want to take the chance of cracking the plastic spool. I put mono on my aluminum spool for test purposes and wound it with very little pressure. After my testing is done I may change over to braid. I have only used Dacron and braid so I am not very familiar with mono.
Regardless of what you do you have two great reels...congratulations!