So being new to this, i need some recommendations on a bench mounted buffer. I have a bench grinder that i can put a buffing wheel on, but will that be OK at constant 3600rpm? I dont want to damage sideplates or chrome finish by buffing too agressively.
What to you guys use?
I'm about to do the same thing on my grinder. i think you will be ok, just start off with a very fine jewelers rouge and see what works. We watched the technician at Penn buff the crap out of new anodized International plates.
Anyone knows differently, please speak up.
I use a standard bench grinder (1/3 HP) with a pig tail fitted (left side - LH thread. Right side RH thread). I simply screw on the 4/5/6" buffing wheel to the pig tail. Each of the buffing wheels is loaded with different compounds - starting with course red to fine white. The last buffing wheel is loaded with carnauba wax for the final shine. I also use the wax wheel for spools ;)
Quote from: thorhammer on January 05, 2018, 01:30:39 PM
I'm about to do the same thing on my grinder. i think you will be ok, just start off with a very fine jewelers rouge and see what works. We watched the technician at Penn buff the crap out of new anodized International plates.
Anyone knows differently, please speak up.
John, do you remember the size of those motors? looked as they came from a 747 ;D
1badf350, I use a 6" grinder , a Dremel, or a Foredom. I will also use my drill press with the correct buffing attachment.
My opinion to you is to stay away from Harbor Freight Tools when it comes to power tools, almost anything else is a pretty good deal there.
My Foredom does the best job if I really need to control the tip, but you're limited on the size of the buffing wheel.
On plates or handle knobs, speed control is very important.
To answer your question, yes you should be ok using your bench mounted buffer. You could control it by getting closer or farther with the work piece.
Sal
Sal, I recall it didn't take but about ten seconds, and that thing has seen probably polished tens of thousands of frames and plates. Not weekend warrior piece certainly.
Quote from: thorhammer on January 05, 2018, 02:12:21 PM
Sal, I recall it didn't take but about ten seconds, and that thing has seen probably polished tens of thousands of frames and plates. Not weekend warrior piece certainly.
Yep, I remember that, It would have probably flown out of our hands if we gave it a shot;D. That worker's hands must be like vises.
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 05, 2018, 02:20:22 PM
Quote from: thorhammer on January 05, 2018, 02:12:21 PM
Sal, I recall it didn't take but about ten seconds, and that thing has seen probably polished tens of thousands of frames and plates. Not weekend warrior piece certainly.
Yep, I remember that, It would have probably flown out of our hands if we gave it a shot;D. That worker's hands must be like vises.
Sal, I've shaken your hands...your hands are like vises too. Must be all the masonry and rock work that you do.
Buffing wheels should be run at 1800 RPM or less. Bench grinders are to fast for buffing. If you use a bench grinder be sure to use a shatter proof face shield, gloves, and stout clothing in case that buffing wheel disintigrates.
Agree with Rudy on this one. I'm using a Dayton 5/8 hp at 1750 rpm's. This particular Dayton has a bit longer shaft and HD bearings. It gives you more space for maneuvering parts. I also like the ability of having 2 wheels set up with different hardness's and different compounds.
With that said it makes a mess in the shop so I seldom use it. I find I can actually get a better finish by hand if I prep the material properly. Even chrome rings with scratches come out as new unless its down to the brass.
Let us know how you make out, .. Lou
If you have a fast grinder use smaller buffing wheels - most of mine are 4". I've also just added a speed control.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on January 05, 2018, 08:05:05 PMjust added a speed control.
Isn't it a brushless motor Tiddler? That must have been an expensive inverter or VFD thing. If you use a little universal type motor with brushes it is cheap to add speed control, but you do not get much torque and it will bog down. Then again, bogging down a buffer may not be a bad thing if you don't burn it up.
-steve
Jewelers bench drives are expensive but they are ideal for small reel parts which is usually what I work on.
I use it mostly for restoring scored worm drive assemblies.
I was lucky to get this one from a friend. A little adaptation and I managed to fit a brass wire brush and a felt buff.
It also comes with speed control.
~
I got fed up with parts getting ripped from my grasp while buffing with bench top grinder that was way to high RPM.
I bought a Delta variable speed bench top grinder and installed buffing pads and lowest rpm is perfect and no more expensive parts flying across the room. The buffing pads and Delta variable speed grinder were purchased at my local Lowes home improvement center.
Ted
Thanks guys! I will head over to Lowes tomorrow and see what they have
If you are just buffing stuff torque ain't important - so use a regular speed control. They aren't ideal on an induction motor - ie regular grinder - but they do the job. OR if the motor is way too fast use a small wheel 3 or 4". no need to spend mega bucks ;)
I have just used an old shoe polisher that was bought at a thrift store for about $10 -- 20 years ago.
Can't wear the motors on these out, and they are fairly low RPMs.
I use lambswool professional shoe-shining heads.
Have 3 -- one for quick rough cleaning with Nevr-Dull or Black Magic, one for polishing with Gel-Gloss, one for waxing with Paste Wax. Gentle enough for sideplates, chrome, anodized, etc..
Been waiting for this one to kick the bucket for 20 years, since it was used when I acquired it. But these are nearly bulletproof.
They can still be picked up for $15 or $20 max -- since these would be used by gentlemen who wore nice shoes -- and a sharp shine was a sign of pride and impressive. But that is old school nowadays...
Now, the youngsters wear any type of shoes they can get away with -- and polishing ones shoes doesn't mean what it used to mean -- when I was growing up and in business.
These used to be at the front of fine shoe stores, or beside your closet door, or in your office -- that is why they were built to last.
A new one is around $200 -- $275, a used one is around 10% of that number. The new lambswool heads are about $25 each -- but last me around 4 years each.
Works well for me.
Just cleaned the lower half of an old Squidder tail-plate -- just a minute or so, with Never-Dull and the lambswool.
Best,
Fred
Fred that polisher looks like a vintage Dremel machine :-\
In the old days, the two main brands were Beck and Dremel.
They were built with quality and durability as one of their main features -- that is why they hold up for decades.
I have a Beck that I use for dress shoes, and this old Dremel for reel work.
You have a sharp eye, Chris.
Best,
Fred
I use an old one my dad made from what I believe is an old washing machine motor. It's been around my whole life and I'm 65. The rpm is not crazy and it doesn't have any torque. I'd post a pic but the safety police would probably be all over me. :D ;D
At least something is still working Fred ;D ;D
HA! Thanks Fred! I just got a vintage Dremel buffer off ebay for cheap!
What is the difference between red and black pads? Can i put polishing compounds, like Flitz, wax, etc directly on the pads?
The colored pads are strictly for ID -- no difference in function or the type of lambswool.
Generally, if one is used for black polished shoes -- the other is for brown.
These are just buffers -- not appropriate for rubbing compound cutting or power waxing.
For me, these are a final quick touch up -- and the shape allows access into smaller areas of a reel.
For waxing, I do this by hand after removing oxidation and cutting with a rubbing compound, recleaning, applying wax by hand -- then the buffer is just for a final sheen.
I like to use common gel-gloss paste for a final sheen.
Best,
Fred
Ok thanks Fred!
I love it Fred,
I used to make a few bucks polishing my dad's dress shoes. Man, that polisher would have some handy back then.
I can polish my reels and my shoes too, time to look at ebay for one of these ;D
I picked up a dremel polisher off ebay, $45 shipped, some pitting but seller says it runs.
Hey Fred, Check out what Usps dropped this off this morning,
it runs and it is pretty quiet.
I need to start wearing more black dress shoes so I can use the black head to polish my shoes ;D
How should I go about washing the wool polish things?
Just toss them in the washer with a little soap and Woolite -- then run them through the dryer.
When it is time to replace them -- Amazon or Google will ship to your door for around $25 for a couple.
Good find!
Best,
Fred
Found this via craigslist. Seems to be the right speed. Came out of a place that made dentures. Can't wait to try her out.
Quote from: Gobi King on January 11, 2018, 07:42:13 PM
Hey Fred, Check out what Usps dropped this off this morning,
it runs and it is pretty quiet.
I need to start wearing more black dress shoes so I can use the black head to polish my shoes ;D
How should I go about washing the wool polish things?
Gobi King did you buy that off eBay from me ???? John Taylor
Oh nope mine was a Becks polisher. Sorry
For me, the hand-held buffing pad on a Foredom flexible shaft is better than a stationary or bench buffer because you can see what you're doing. With a bench buffer you have the side of the work-piece being buffed turned away from you so you cannot watch what is going on. With a flexible shaft buffer you have the side of the work-piece you are buffing turned face up in your hand so you can maneuver into corners and watch the progress.
-steve
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on January 07, 2018, 12:30:11 AM
If you are just buffing stuff torque ain't important - so use a regular speed control. They aren't ideal on an induction motor - ie regular grinder - but they do the job. OR if the motor is way too fast use a small wheel 3 or 4". no need to spend mega bucks ;)
x2, harbor freight has some inexpensive ones,
Quote from: oc1 on January 06, 2018, 08:10:59 AM
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on January 05, 2018, 08:05:05 PMjust added a speed control.
Isn't it a brushless motor Tiddler? That must have been an expensive inverter or VFD thing. If you use a little universal type motor with brushes it is cheap to add speed control, but you do not get much torque and it will bog down. Then again, bogging down a buffer may not be a bad thing if you don't burn it up.
-steve
Steve I eventually did buy a VFD (variable frequency drive) off of fleabay - they are not that expensive any more :)
Instead of using fixed cabling I fitted a double mains socket on a flying lead. I can now plug in any mains induction motor and control its speed (usually slowing it down).
Using my 4" linishing machine is now a pleasure rather than the fight it used to be. Same for the drill press, grinder/buffer and other belt sanders. It really is one useful gadget well worth the money ;)
Not recommended,,,,,, :D I use a dewalt car buffer,,, :o I think the polish is the main thing "nu finish scratch doctor" and "3m plastic polish" does the trick,,,,,,, ;D
After using their power tools, I now only purchase hand tool and some other items, no power tools from Harbor Freight for me.
Sal
Chris, you wouldn't happen to have a link to that VFD?
I'm with you Sal. Sometimes I buy from HF if I'm not sure the tool will be used enough to wear out it's inherently short life. The stuff I use on a regular basis is either Dewalt or Makita.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on February 03, 2020, 09:51:38 PM
Chris, you wouldn't happen to have a link to that VFD?
I'm with you Sal. Sometimes I buy from HF if I'm not sure the tool will be used enough to wear out it's inherently short life. The stuff I use on a regular basis is either Dewalt or Makita.
-steve
To their defense Steve, I do have a Grizzly wood lathe and it has been working great.
The best $200 I've ever spent.
So I guess some of the power tools they carry could be worth it.
Sal
Quote from: oc1 on February 03, 2020, 09:51:38 PM
Chris, you wouldn't happen to have a link to that VFD?
I'm with you Sal. Sometimes I buy from HF if I'm not sure the tool will be used enough to wear out it's inherently short life. The stuff I use on a regular basis is either Dewalt or Makita.
-steve
Steve - it was the same/similar as one of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AT1-2200X-AC220V-Single-phase-Variable-Frequency-Drive-Speed-Controller-2-2kW-/133273601862
The instructions are crap but I managed to work them out. There was a lot of button pressing ;) If you get stuck I do have a few pointers.
But the ultimate control is worth it IMO.
The link I posted is similar/same to what I purchased - they are all the same/similar PRC products.
Quote from: oc1 on February 03, 2020, 09:51:38 PM
Chris, you wouldn't happen to have a link to that VFD?
I'm with you Sal. Sometimes I buy from HF if I'm not sure the tool will be used enough to wear out it's inherently short life. The stuff I use on a regular basis is either Dewalt or Makita.
-steve
Yes,,,,,i got to have the right stuff to do the job,,,,, ;) the porter cable 7424xp $239 is a polisher orbital and makes a great electric sander to but if you get the 7346 model $119 from Lowe's it's the same thing but the brushes are no good,,,,, :o but I do like haroble fakes 4ft led shop lights $20 I got to wait for there to go back on sale,,,,,,,, ;D
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on February 04, 2020, 01:19:14 AM
The link I posted is similar/same to what I purchased - they are all the same/similar PRC products.
Thank you. I need single-phase 110 volt input and single-phase 110 volt output. It seems that most of them are 220 volt. The ones with single-phase 110 volt input have three-phase output. All my tools are single phase.
I probably missing something fundamental.
-steve
Steve check with the supplier to see if it will still work with single phase. My one can be single or three phase it's just different connections on the output. I.E. I think most of VFD are intended for 3 phase work - but you can just utilise a single phase of the ouput. I think the main guideline here is if your motor is rated at 5amps you will need a drive capable of 10amps because you are only using 1 phase and a safety overhead is always a good thing.
This article is quite useful:
https://www.vfds.com/blog/vfd-buying-guide
This is one I purchased:
(https://alantani.com/gallery/31/9780_04_02_20_5_08_21_318571628.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/31/9780_04_02_20_5_07_38_318531630.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/31/9780_04_02_20_5_07_51_318561264.jpeg)
Neutral to W - Live to U - V unconnected.
I don't have any high powered motors - only 250w to 350w - so the 750w 1hp copes just fine. It didn't even get warm after a long session on the linisher at reduced speed:)
The accuracy of the indicated revs is dependant on the base setting (adjustable if a bit fiddly) for a 2 or 4 pole motor - 1400 or 2800. Having changed it a couple of times I now just leave it on whatever setting it was. It's fairly obvious if it should be 1000rpm or 2000rpm, if it's that important just do the mental math ;D
Thank you again.
-steve