Ok,so I posted a little while back about a Saltiga 20H,but it was a Saltist 20H. The casting was extremely poor...so now I have the reel in my possession and it's apart. The first thing I did was pull the spool bearing off the right side of the reel,and spun it. Sounded noisy.I dropped a few drops of TSI 321 on the bearing and let it seep in,,no more noise.My first question is,are those red pieces brake collars? And are they supposed to move? These are sliding off the silver rod they are on. Second question,,I assume I have to take apart the left side plate to get to the other spool bearing,correct..?
Those red thingies are brakes. They are supposed to slide. When putting them back, if you do, the rounded side faces outwards.
Regarding the spool bearings. The left side plate bearing can be taken out easily by removing the clicker coring and bearing retention screw.
With regards to the right side Spool bearing, I believe it is held in by a clip spring and it can be removed, if I'm not mistaken.
Quote from: Bryan Young on May 20, 2018, 06:16:21 AM
Those red thingies are brakes. They are supposed to slide. When putting them back, if you do, the rounded side faces outwards.
Regarding the spool bearings. The left side plate bearing can be taken out easily by removing the clicker coring and bearing retention screw.
With regards to the right side Spool bearing, I believe it is held in by a clip spring and it can be removed, if I'm not mistaken.
I am not sure I have the correct schematic for this reel.. Do you think this is correct?
http://www.daiwa.com/us/service/manuals/image/saltwater/SASD20HA_30HA.pdf
Hi, SASD20HA-30HA looks like the Saltiga schematic to me (one piece left side plate and frame), try the attached Saltist LW20HA schematic to see if it looks like your reel, it's for the level wind version but the rest should be similar.
Mike
PS: Just found the 20H schematics on 'Mikes Reel Repair' site.
Quote from: mhc on May 20, 2018, 11:16:59 AM
Hi, SASD20HA-30HA looks like the Saltiga schematic to me (one piece left side plate and frame), try the attached Saltist LW20HA schematic to see if it looks like your reel, it's for the level wind version but the rest should be similar.
Mike
PS: Just found the 20H schematics on 'Mikes Reel Repair' site.
That one has a level wind,,this reel does not. I guess that's what the "LW" means.
Correct - have a look at the second schematic I posted, it is for the 20H model without a levelwind.
Mike
Quote from: Bryan Young on May 20, 2018, 06:16:21 AM
Those red thingies are brakes. They are supposed to slide. When putting them back, if you do, the rounded side faces outwards.
Regarding the spool bearings. The left side plate bearing can be taken out easily by removing the clicker coring and bearing retention screw.
With regards to the right side Spool bearing, I believe it is held in by a clip spring and it can be removed, if I'm not mistaken.
Bryan,,what did you mean when you said "if you do" ....they can be left off? What happens if I did that?
Quote from: mhc on May 20, 2018, 11:21:04 PM
Correct - have a look at the second schematic I posted, it is for the 20H model without a levelwind.
Mike
Thanks!
No problem. I can't speak for Bryan, but the brake blocks are optional. They help reduce overruns when casting by generating friction against the copper ring sitting above the clicker spring - the faster the spool spins the more centrifugal force acts on the blocks and increases the pressure on the ring. If you can control the spool without them by using your thumb, you will get a bit more casting distance.
The 20 size saltists are nice little mid priced reels, the main gear is almost the same diameter as the spool with decent sized carbon drag washers.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_21_05_18_12_38_18.jpeg)
Mike
Quote from: mhc on May 21, 2018, 08:16:12 AM
No problem. I can't speak for Bryan, but the brake blocks are optional. They help reduce overruns when casting by generating friction against the copper ring sitting above the clicker spring - the faster the spool spins the more centrifugal force acts on the blocks and increases the pressure on the ring. If you can control the spool without them by using your thumb, you will get a bit more casting distance.
The 20 size saltists are nice little mid priced reels, the main gear is almost the same diameter as the spool with decent sized carbon drag washers.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_21_05_18_12_38_18.jpeg)
Mike
Thanks again...that's what I was thinking. I will leave the brakes in for now. Hopefullly the noisy bearing I treated to a dose of TSI was the reason it was casing so poorly.
Quote from: mhc on May 21, 2018, 08:16:12 AM
No problem. I can't speak for Bryan, but the brake blocks are optional. They help reduce overruns when casting by generating friction against the copper ring sitting above the clicker spring - the faster the spool spins the more centrifugal force acts on the blocks and increases the pressure on the ring. If you can control the spool without them by using your thumb, you will get a bit more casting distance.
The 20 size saltists are nice little mid priced reels, the main gear is almost the same diameter as the spool with decent sized carbon drag washers.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_21_05_18_12_38_18.jpeg)
Mike
I know this is probably a whacky question,but does anyone take one of the red brakes off?
i always take them out. i don't think they really help at all.
Quote from: alantani on May 22, 2018, 01:58:05 AM
i always take them out. i don't think they really help at all.
X2
Since you are that deep into that reel go ahead and get the left side bearing out. It is pretty easy to do and from the pics it looks like you may be there with the click spring removed, With that removed and the sliver cover tab, I'm not sure what Daiwa calls it, you have access to the left side bearing and that can be easily gotten to. Use something to get that bearing out, I have picks to easily pry them out and if it is not to corroded you can "slap" the left side plate onto a hard surface or even sometimes into the palm of your hand to remove that bearing.
Just clean and lube that bearing as well.
Now here is a key. I don't know if someone has already been inside of that reel before you and I'm guessing you don't know either. But I have worked on several Daiwa products, a few of them mine and some for other people. The pocket where the left side bearing is there is most likely several pieces that go into that cup along with the bearing. Getting these out of sort can and will most likely slow down freespool. I have played around with this configuration several times and have always went back to the stock config finding it best.
Like I said in the other post don't for get about the pinion bearing as well. Bryan is correct there is a spring clip to get it out of the reel. Do you need to full pull it out? Maybe not but the spool shaft rides inside of the pinion gear in freespool, so cleaning the spool shaft and the inside of the pinion gear can help a lot with freespool if there issues there.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on May 22, 2018, 03:58:52 AM
Quote from: alantani on May 22, 2018, 01:58:05 AM
i always take them out. i don't think they really help at all.
X2
Since you are that deep into that reel go ahead and get the left side bearing out. It is pretty easy to do and from the pics it looks like you may be there with the click spring removed, With that removed and the sliver cover tab, I'm not sure what Daiwa calls it, you have access to the left side bearing and that can be easily gotten to. Use something to get that bearing out, I have picks to easily pry them out and if it is not to corroded you can "slap" the left side plate onto a hard surface or even sometimes into the palm of your hand to remove that bearing.
Just clean and lube that bearing as well.
Now here is a key. I don't know if someone has already been inside of that reel before you and I'm guessing you don't know either. But I have worked on several Daiwa products, a few of them mine and some for other people. The pocket where the left side bearing is there is most likely several pieces that go into that cup along with the bearing. Getting these out of sort can and will most likely slow down freespool. I have played around with this configuration several times and have always went back to the stock config finding it best.
Like I said in the other post don't for get about the pinion bearing as well. Bryan is correct there is a spring clip to get it out of the reel. Do you need to full pull it out? Maybe not but the spool shaft rides inside of the pinion gear in freespool, so cleaning the spool shaft and the inside of the pinion gear can help a lot with freespool if there issues there.
The reel has only one spool bearing,other side is a bushing. The pinion bearing was making an unpleasant noise,so I dropped some TSI321 on it ,and it must have seeped in cause the noise disappeared .immediately. I never opened a bearing before,so I was too nervous to do it. Anyway,I did remove the left side bearing,and spun it to see if there was noise,but didn't hear any. This bearing didn't seem like the type that could be opened like the pinion.I dropped some TSI on that bearing as well. The original problem was it casts poorly..so I don't know if I did anything to correct it...but..I can throw it into freespool give it a flick with my finger,and get about 16 seconds of spin time. I don't know if the TSI freed up the left side bearing...cause it didn't seem like anything was wrong with it. I would think a spool tha spins 16 seconds in freespool,can't have gummed up bearings,right?
sounds like this will work!
It looks like you're well underway and (Edit: I'M sorry I ment YOU have) done a good job there. In the saltist 20h there should be two bearings that support the spool. In the schematic for that reell the key numbers should be number 10 and number 3, those are the bearings that support the spool on the left and right side.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on May 23, 2018, 04:27:21 AM
It looks like you're well underway and I've done a good job there. In the saltist 20h there should be two bearings that support the spool. In the schematic for that reell the key numbers should be number 10 and number 3, those are the bearings that support the spool on the left and right side.
Well #3 is the one that was making an unpleasant noise,,the TSI cleared that up quick..I don't know why I thought it was a pinion bearing,,,but what does #41 bushing do?
That bushing acts like a pinion bearing. I replaced that bushing in my BG 20H with a bearing and the effect on freespool was minimal in my reel. I am up 33-34 seconds of freespool in this reel after a couple more tweeks and that is plenty for my needs.
Here is a thread on that change out.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=9793.0
Hi,
I just inherited an older (silver) Daiwa saltist 20H and am wonder what is the max drag can I expect from it? With clamping it down (tight), I can only get 5#. It did not seem right to me. At initial visual inspection, all drag washers seem intact as new. Bearings did not make any unusual noise, free spool has seen a better day. What do I miss out? please help. Thanks
Vein-popping tight? Maybe 15 pounds. The reel would be happier at 10 pounds.
I fish my BG 20H a 8 lbs of drag with 25 lb test. It seems to like this setting. When I go over the 8 lbs the drag gets jerky even though I had the stock drags greased with Cal's. I even replaced the stock drags with CarbonTex and greased with Cal's and the reel still got jerky at around 9-10 lbs of drag.
5 lbs does not sound right at all. Make sure the drag stack is in the correct order.
Yes, I can only get 5# with vein-popping tight. I will look for the schematic to make sure the drag stack is in correct order. Thanks again.
Quote from: didka on August 11, 2019, 04:44:17 AM
Yes, I can only get 5# with vein-popping tight. I will look for the schematic to make sure the drag stack is in correct order. Thanks again.
Here is the schematic.
http://schematics.mikesreelrepair.com/albums/userpics/10001/STT20H-30H.pdf
Make sure starting from inside the main gear going out to the top is like this.
1. fiberwasher
2. keyed metal washer
3. fiberwasher
4. eared metal washer
5. fiber washer
6. keyed metal washer.
I don't know about the Saltist you have but on my Saltist BG the last keyed washer, #6 I mentioned, is thicker and has a bit of a domed shape. If your reel is like this make sure the flat side is down against the last fiber washer and the domed part is on top. I see from the schematic it has a different part number than the other keyed washer so this may be the case?
Also when putting on the side plate the drag stack can shift a bit and the eared washer can move out if the slot in the main gear. This can happen with many star drag reels just not Diawa's so just watch out for this.
If the drag stack looks right make sure all the other parts needed for drag are in the reel. Key numbers 38, 40 which is the anti reverse bearing and should be in the side plate and not really part of the drag stack, 50, 51, 52 two of these, 53 and 66 which make the clicking when the star drag is turned.