Which Newell reel would you own. Please don't say a clear one for $5000.00. One that you would use and pass down to the next generation of fisher people. One that will stand the test of time and use?
Thanks!
Andy
P-220 tib'ed out. Here on the east coast you can use it for seabass to striped bass and everything inbetween. Just my two cents worth.
Bob
First choice 220, 2nd 229, third 322. I would stay away from the blackies or any of the models that have the long thru screws which some of the guys call sex screws.
The 220 is really a sweet little reel!
..............Lou
G-220 and a G332 Both cast like a dream and the 332 can be fished easily with 30 and 40 lb mono. I prefer the G over the Ps because if you do not keep the screws lubricated and you don't seriously wash after each use then the screws could get seized in the P base or bars. The newer Ps are better than the old Ps as far as corrosion resistance. The early Gs are just fabulous Newells. I have too many but have difficulty parting with one. There are really nice.
It will really depend on where you fish, what type of fish targeted and method of used for catching the fish. For the type of fishing I do mainly in So Cal with bait and topshots to 30 lbs a P or G 220 if spectra backing or a 229 if not, surface iron on a longer jig stick up to 40 lb test again a P or G 322 if spectra backing or a 332 if not. For Ulua from shore I'll let the Hawaii guy give you info for that.
I would also go with a drag upgrade if the reel does not already have one. Tib frames are nice but for me I want to keep my Newell's as light as I can. Now if I was going to use heavier mono/topshots around 50 lb and above I may think about a Tib frame.
The 332 was the standard reel for a Jig stick. The 322/332/338 are the same size as the Jigmaster 501/99/500.
once you have had one, it's easy to justify more ;D agree w/ above, 220/229 series for #15-25 lb, 322/332/338 series for #30-40 lb. my favorite is a p332 w/ tib frame and bryan's 5 stack drag kit. so fun for fishing surface iron! just got tom's stainless sleeve and dog to further upgrade it. back in the days when we had anchovies and albacore here in so cal, nothing would cast a chovy like a 220.
Tough question, but the G229-F is hard to beat for light lures, and light bait, but with the drag upgrade it'll handle school tuna, local tails, calicos on swim baits, and further south dorado.
For more serious tails, bigger school tuna a G332-F, again with the drag upgrade, is a workhorse, as well as, getting that cast out there where the tails are boiling.
I guess I'm good because I found a p229f in the garage that spins like a top and has good drags. My son got it for $50 last summer and its been sitting around since then. It came with an Eagle Claw Starfire downrigger rod I need to throw out.
Update 2/11/16.
I just opened it up. It's been years since I've been in a Newell. It had dark red washers. Are those the originals from back when it was built? It has greased HT-100's now. I must say they were a superior design. Penn sure missed a bet by not buying Newell 35 years ago! All the guys putting stainless parts in jigmasters and they still won't be as good as a 30+ year old Newell.
229
My personal choice for an all around Newell would be a G332. Easy to cast, very light, just right in width, and a good all around reel for many different types of fishing.
P-546 with Tiburon frame--perfect all-around reel for Hawaiian-style ulua fishing imho.. 8)
Chad
Quote from: MarkT on February 11, 2016, 05:32:50 AM
I guess I'm good because I found a p229f in the garage that spins like a top and has good drags. My son got it for $50 last summer and its been sitting around since then. It came with an Eagle Claw Starfire downrigger rod I need to throw out.
Update 2/11/16.
I just opened it up. It's been years since I've been in a Newell. It had dark red washers. Are those the originals from back when it was built? It has greased HT-100's now. I must say they were a superior design. Penn sure missed a bet by not buying Newell 35 years ago! All the guys putting stainless parts in jigmasters and they still won't be as good as a 30+ year old Newell.
Most likely no, there not stock drag washers. Newell's came with a plastic like drag washer that were black that fit in between the metal washers, the red ones are most likely HT-100 upgraded drag washers. People at those times went to smoothies, super smoothies and a couple of different drag washers but went to HT-100's when they found out that they also will fit Newell reels and were much better.
I still have Penn's that have the dark red washers, one that I was just into is a 525 mag.
Unless Carl went to a different colored material for his drag washers, which IMO is highly unlikely because he was not focused on drag but on a better design of a Penn reel.
They look plastic, definitely not any kind of carbon fiber. Either way they're out of there and the 4 greased HT-100's (3 up, one down) rock.
Both my 525 and 525 Mag have HT-100 woven carbon fiber, round drag washers... Not the later eared washers.
Weren't old Newell washers black with flecks gasket material or was that the old Smoothies?
You could even add another drag washer on top of the stack if wanted. With Newell reels there is room to add another carbon drag washer in between the belleville/top washer in the stack and the last metal washer on the gear. On most Newell reels there is room for mods like this for adding another washer without having going to a five stack.
As is it gets more than enough for fishing 25# which is probably the max I'd be looking to use a 229 for although with spectra it'd probably handle 30# with no issues.
Quote from: MarkT on February 13, 2016, 03:40:27 AM
They look plastic, definitely not any kind of carbon fiber. Either way they're out of there and the 4 greased HT-100's (3 up, one down) rock.
Both my 525 and 525 Mag have HT-100 woven carbon fiber, round drag washers... Not the later eared washers.
Weren't old Newell washers black with flecks gasket material or was that the old Smoothies?
I have a Newell that had the same type of plastic washers. I thought they may have been teflon.
Changed mine out to HT-100's too.
Quote from: steelhead_killer on February 10, 2016, 11:13:15 PM
Which Newell reel would you own. Please don't say a clear one for $5000.00. One that you would use and pass down to the next generation of fisher people. One that will stand the test of time and use?
Thanks!
Andy
I hope that I never have to choose. ;D
Over here we have a few guys that put 1 Teflon Washer on the bottom of the stack. They said it was better this way.
235 & 344 . . . I like wider spools.
I guess if I could only have one it would be a P-440 8). There's just something about the feel of slinging iron on a big yet super light reel loaded with 40# test!
That P 440 is a very sweet reel. Keep it clean and it will be running 30 years from now.
Sal got me interested in tested the delrin under the stack and the .030 thick Delrin washers under the gear and the .020 delrin on top of the stack between the top washer and the Belleville is very smooth. Glad Sal twisted my arm on that one and no drag pressure lost. Just got smoother.
Dwight
we throw big chunk bait here on galveston so the P OR G 338 is highly prefered. but latly I made/assembled a Tibed out special purple/black crossbread 2nd Gen P -series that Norma put together for me years ago yes its been in the box, it should be sweet cant wait to try it throwing a 3oz weight with a light bait. that P220 is a sweety to I have 2 that are mint 1st generation.
I never decided which was the best and ended up with five. 220, 229, 322, 332 & 344. After reading this I think I put the wrong Delron under the gear on all but one Dwight.
OK I got my first Newell reel. It is a 332-5. (Thanks Newell Nut) Cant wait to learn a new reel! From all the comments it appears that this will not be my last Newell reel. So what normally needs to be upgraded on these reels first?
Thanks to everyone for your opinions and guidance!
Andy
Andy, probably the first thing is to check that the bearings are smooth and quiet. Even then flush the bearings out with aerosol parts cleaner (I use CRC), check that they now spin very well, followed by a couple drops of very light oil.
Next, check to see if the drags have been upgraded to carbon fiber drag material, Carbontex can be purchased thru Smoooth Drag, or just purchase HT100 drags that are used in Penn Jigmaster's. Either set of drag washers should have a very thin layer of grease applied to make them work smoother.
Check to see the spool looks centered between the inside cage rings, and that there is no excessive side to side movement. All you need is a little play to allow the spool to spin freely.
One final thing is to tighten the star very tight and make sure the star is not rubbing agains the side plate.
I also purchased a Newel R332 on Newell Nut's recommendation,this is a first for me also,but I didn't receive it yet.
Joe
Quote from: thinkwahoo on February 16, 2016, 06:23:24 AM
Andy, probably the first thing is to check that the bearings are smooth and quiet. Even then flush the bearings out with aerosol parts cleaner (I use CRC), check that they now spin very well, followed by a couple drops of very light oil.
Next, check to see if the drags have been upgraded to carbon fiber drag material, Carbontex can be purchased thru Smoooth Drag, or just purchase HT100 drags that are used in Penn Jigmaster's. Either set of drag washers should have a very thin layer of grease applied to make them work smoother.
Check to see the spool looks centered between the inside cage rings, and that there is no excessive side to side movement. All you need is a little play to allow the spool to spin freely.
One final thing is to tighten the star very tight and make sure the star is not rubbing agains the side plate.
X2 on what Jerry said. If the spool is centered well and spinning nice before you disassemble then no problem. Tiny little centering issues are solved with bearing spacer washers if needed. When you take out he handle side bearing cup in your case you will notice a plastic split ring. Different colors for different thicknesses installed at the factory. No need to change it but be careful putting the cup back in. Gently squeeze the ring together while getting an extra thread and all is well. Some people that are not familiar may feel a little resistance on the screw driver and get on it hard. This will chew up your split ring and they are very hard to find. Pay attention and no problem. No issue on the left side. That is an o ring so lube and go.
Dwight
Dwight: I didn't follow that thing about squeezing the ring in the cup as you are installing it and getting an extra thread.
Joe
Quote from: Reel 224 on February 16, 2016, 04:42:56 PM
Dwight: I didn't follow that thing about squeezing the ring in the cup as you are installing it and getting an extra thread.
Joe
The plastic split ring will open wider than the threaded hole that the cup screws into. It can get stuck and you can ruin it by not paying attention. Screw the cup in until you get contact with the plastic split ring, then help it get smaller with a finger nail or something and then screw it on in. I am referring to reels that have bearing cups. If you don't have bearing cups as in a P or early G or no letters than don't worry.
Dwight
Dwight: I have a G332 series, Just received it today. Second thing, the schematics that are posted for the series 300s are not big enough to copy and read.
Joe
Quote from: Reel 224 on February 16, 2016, 10:20:08 PM
Dwight: I have a G332 series, Just received it today. Second thing, the schematics that are posted for the series 300s are not big enough to copy and read.
Joe
I just emailed you schematics.
Got it Dwight, thank you.
Joe
Got the 332-5 today and promptly exploded it on the kitchen table! What a great product. This thing is light, strong and corrosion resistant. I am amazed at the simplicity and stainless steel. Simple to work on just too bad they don't make these things anymore. How were they priced when they were still making them? Meaning what was the retail price for 300 series compared to a Penn or a Shimano? Just curious because they are great reels!
First batch of four . . .
Second batch of four
Third batch of four . . .
Last one . . .
Thank you! ;D
5
Lots of good info there Dave, Thanks for posting those!
Thank you , Gentlemen !
I'm glad to be able to help out, whenever I can . . .
Tight Lines !!!
I posted these items and several more here . . .
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7159.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7159.0)
Tight Lines !!!
recently started gettin into newells and jeez, what a cool little machine. gotta g220 and a g229. wanna get a g 338ish. can anyone tell me the drag #'s on these reels please ? or better yet a good location for this type of info. failed with search so far
thks, mark
Stock, they should get 9# - 12#.
thks, with carbontex or ht-100 upgrade would the #'s be the same ?
Quote from: mark d on February 24, 2016, 09:52:12 PM
recently started gettin into newells and jeez, what a cool little machine. gotta g220 and a g229. wanna get a g 338ish. can anyone tell me the drag #'s on these reels please ? or better yet a good location for this type of info. failed with search so far
thks, mark
When I first tested Bryan's 5 stack drag system I got 30# on a 338. Runs real smooth at 15 to 18. Great reels with the right drag system in them.
Dwight
First Newell reel with a new Tib Frame. Looks like she has a tuxedo on! Next need the 5+1! Have the SS sleeve on order. (http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/newell%20332-5%20tib%20frame_zpshx7aqwbv.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/newell%20332-5%20tib%20frame_zpshx7aqwbv.jpg.html)
The 332 is one of my favorites. I use it for deep drop fishing 150'-400'. I only have 3 of them.
Quote from: steelhead_killer on February 25, 2016, 04:15:34 AM
First Newell reel with a new Tib Frame. Looks like she has a tuxedo on! Next need the 5+1! Have the SS sleeve on order.
Doesn't it already had a stainless sleeve?
I have found a few that a magnet likes to cuddle with but very few
sure looks like a non stainless steel sleeve to me, but I could be wrong, which is often the case.
Newell stock sleeves should be stainless.
Not all Newell sleeves were stainless steel. I have a few that look bronze. Slightly heavier than the stainless steel ones that I got.
the sleeve on my g220 is bronze. not very good photo attached...i think. how important do you guys think this upgrade is ?
newell sleeves don't fail @ the handle attachment like penn reels. better/stronger design. handle is completely over the sleeve, not flush mounted @ the end. that said, I got the stainless sleeves for some of my newels 8)
Blackies and P's had SS sleeves, G's and later had Bronze. Lots of fish have been caught with bronze sleeves over the last 35 years so I don't think it's an important upgrade unless maybe you're fishing with heavy drag. Probably completely unnecessary with a 200 series, 'maybe' on a 300 series and useful with a 400 series since they're the size of a 500 series but have the same internals as a 220.
thks guys
Sometimes the bronze sleeves are chewed up on the end from having the handle nut cross-threaded. In that case it's worth buying a stainless sleeve...the supply of OEM Newell parts is getting expensive.
Mike
Most of the original Ps had SS sleeves on the 4 stack drag systems. As Newell transitioned away from SS sleeves you could actually get an old P with the hardened bronze. After that they have always been hardened bronze and the only failure that I have seen was a cross threaded handle nut on one reel. The stock Newell parts work great and for a very long time. Bryan's drag kit will make any of them run better.
Special thank you to Newell Nut for some help getting my 332 humming! I really appreciate the willingness to help! Good peoples here!
Andy
has any one see a newell star like this --- it looks plastic with spacer sleeve bronzed attached to it
is this a late model P332F or a Frankinewell reel???? It is super clean but has Bronze gear sleeve - plastic star with attached bronze drag spacer - graphite reel - with matching plastic clicker - and plastic jack handle
the rod seat and clamp and spacer bar are all aluminum
and the handle is super clean the looks like the early p332f handle
I would appreciate any input thanks --- Sean Maguire
Looks like a late model P that they made towards the end.
Quote from: theluckpusher on February 28, 2016, 09:40:54 PM
has any one see a newell star like this --- it looks plastic with spacer sleeve bronzed attached to it
These were not for P series. Ps have Aluminum stars. I have seen two of these but I forget what series they were in. It was not a good design in my opinion.
The Star & Spacer is from an old Blackie. I have a few of them.
As far as picking just one Newell Reel. I would take a P-229 F. It's one of the best work horse of the brand
The star spacer came out near the end of the G series, and was a mistake that Carl regretted. Most reels that were sent in for service or repair had these replaced with separate units. I've clamped these stars up in a mill, and cut off the drag spacer.
I was always told they were from the Blackie model
OOOOPS
As far as picking just one Newell Reel. I would take a P-229 F. It's one of the best work horse of the brand
[/quote]
why do people seem to prefer the p over the g ? i have read the history of newell that is stickied here and it does say there was a decline in quality over the years but it says it started after the g
thks, mark
Mark
The "G" model is a very good reel just my second choice. The "G" has a Graphite Handle, Graphite Jack Handle, Graphite Clicker Button & Graphite Reel Seat. I personally like the SS parts & Aluminum Reel Seat & handle on the "P" Series.
I have many of both Models because they are the best in the line of reels that Carl made.
Mike
thks for the explanation
mark
I'm only here to help
I have early G series reels with P series aluminum stars, aluminum handles, stainless jack levers and stainless clicker buttons. I guess what ever parts were left over from the P series were use up before converting to all graphite G's.
Quote from: Newell Nut on February 16, 2016, 09:45:17 PM
Quote from: Reel 224 on February 16, 2016, 04:42:56 PM
Dwight: I didn't follow that thing about squeezing the ring in the cup as you are installing it and getting an extra thread.
Joe
The plastic split ring will open wider than the threaded hole that the cup screws into. It can get stuck and you can ruin it by not paying attention. Screw the cup in until you get contact with the plastic split ring, then help it get smaller with a finger nail or something and then screw it on in. I am referring to reels that have bearing cups. If you don't have bearing cups as in a P or early G or no letters than don't worry.
Dwight
Replace the split ring with an O ring on the right side. You will have infinite spool adjustment and you wont have to worry about having the proper color split ring to get the spool centered. I've been doing this for a good 15 years without a glitch.
Quote from: Frank on March 01, 2016, 07:54:34 PM
Quote from: Newell Nut on February 16, 2016, 09:45:17 PM
Quote from: Reel 224 on February 16, 2016, 04:42:56 PM
Dwight: I didn't follow that thing about squeezing the ring in the cup as you are installing it and getting an extra thread.
Joe
The plastic split ring will open wider than the threaded hole that the cup screws into. It can get stuck and you can ruin it by not paying attention. Screw the cup in until you get contact with the plastic split ring, then help it get smaller with a finger nail or something and then screw it on in. I am referring to reels that have bearing cups. If you don't have bearing cups as in a P or early G or no letters than don't worry.
Dwight
Replace the split ring with an O ring on the right side. You will have infinite spool adjustment and you wont have to worry about having the proper color split ring to get the spool centered. I've been doing this for a good 15 years without a glitch.
What size O ring Frank and where did you purchase it? I'm assuming you meant rubber O ring. Is that part # 50?
Joe
Hey Joe.
You would be replacing a U-4 split ring with a U-2 O ring. I don't remember the size, it was quite awhile ago. I just took the O ring off the left side bearing cup and brought it to the hardware store, matched it up and bought ten and replaced all my right side split rings with the new O rings. Then you can play with both bearing cup adjustments until the spool is perfectly centered. Also, use a good fitting brass washer in the bearing cup slots for adjustment if you want to avoid nicking up the cup screw slot.
Thanks Frank. I will look in my assortment of O rings to find a match. I can go to MSC or McMaster Carr for the brass washer.
Joe
Enjoyed this thread very much. Two questions I don' t believed were answered.
How much were they New, Back in the day? I purchased all 5 of the P-F series from Turner's sporting goods in SoCal around 1983. The 220 thru 338 sold for $127 ea. and the P454F was $157.
I still have them and they've been used a lot! I upgraded the drags with Bryans drag kits ( heavily greased) and I can get a lot more drag with them than i need, but I never use more than #15 on any of them,. With the upgraded drags, they are very smooth from zero to #15. Above that the smoothness can get a little wavy around 18# and alot wavy beyond that(like about 2# difference on a spring scale) 0 to 15 is perfect! I love the sound a Newell makes when line is getting stripped off by a decent size fish with the drag somewhere between 6-12 with a full spool!
Lastly, Nothing has ever broke down on them other than the drags, I've replaced the bearings once and they are readily available and not expensive.
Quote from: funhog on March 02, 2016, 04:48:51 AM
Enjoyed this thread very much. Two questions I don' t believed were answered.
How much were they New, Back in the day? I purchased all 5 of the P-F series from Turner's sporting goods in SoCal around 1983. The 220 thru 338 sold for $127 ea. and the P454F was $157.
I still have them and they've been used a lot! I upgraded the drags with Bryans drag kits ( heavily greased) and I can get a lot more drag with them than i need, but I never use more than #15 on any of them,. With the upgraded drags, they are very smooth from zero to #15. Above that the smoothness can get a little wavy around 18# and alot wavy beyond that(like about 2# difference on a spring scale) 0 to 15 is perfect! I love the sound a Newell makes when line is getting stripped off by a decent size fish with the drag somewhere between 6-12 with a full spool!
Lastly, Nothing has ever broke down on them other than the drags, I've replaced the bearings once and they are readily available and not expensive.
Thank you! Thats not much more than an Abu Garcia! What a great value these Newell reels have been.
steelhead, i failed to mention what a beautiful reel you have there. good luck with it
Finally got a chance to cast the 332 out at the lake today. 12 rod, '30b test mono, 3 oz of lead, fzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz blop!
They certainly live up to the reputation. Very happy! Bring on the Albacore! Thanks to everyone!
Andy
Never owned or know enough about Newell what would be average price to buy Newell g220f that would be worthwhile
Good condition about $120
Good luck finding one for that price. More like 150 to 185 range in mint condition.
Everyone should have at least one Newell.
Here is mine
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160421_210244.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160421_210244.jpg.html)
Dwight hooked me up with this one a while back.
Sal
Quote from: Newell Nut on April 21, 2016, 11:10:39 PM
Good luck finding one for that price. More like 150 to 185 range in mint condition.
Really? I must have been sleeping at the wheel.
Bryan
I'm with NN on those prices. A "P" series goes $200.
Mike
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 22, 2016, 01:11:23 AM
Everyone should have at least one Newell.
Here is mine
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160421_210244.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160421_210244.jpg.html)
Dwight hooked me up with this one a while back.
Sal
This little power house has a few bucks tied up in it. Sweet reel there Sal.