Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I checked my a/r & it does have a smaller diameter steel spring washer.Maybe the previous owner added this one who knows?

Quote from: jgp12000 on May 16, 2024, 11:59:46 AMPaul,
Your paint jobs look flawless!I think the Mitchell 300 is probably the best looking reel ever.I don't repaint many,but if I come across one missing a lot of paint I would.Are you willing to share specifically which "high temp black satin enamel" you are using? Rattle can or airbrush,whatever technique you have looks better than original!

Thank you for your kind words on my work jgp2000.

Re-finishing is not my preference, but like yourself, if a reel is in a very poor state, then I will, and I do enjoy the process.

Without going too far into the small details, I did all of the work with rattle can paints, usually around 2 or 3 coats of black top coat.

I am sure the factory must have chemically etched the metalwork before using a red primer undercoat (not always red, and sometimes zero primer as we know), so without that ability, I have used an etch primer called 'Upol Acid 8' bought from a well known UK car care outlet called Halfords, though I'm sure the Rustoleum equivalent would be just as good, and probably better?

I spray just enought to cover the bare metal, which should be completely clean of all the original finish, or etch primer won't take, so good thorough preparation is vital; I haven't yet found a paint stripper here that is strong enough to remove a Mitchell finish, so sanding down has been the the only option for me.

Finally, I clean the metal parts with Isopropyl alcohol before spraying.

Once I have my etch coat covered enough that it is not showing any of the metal through it, I leave it for an hour or two and clear out the etched in Mitchell script with a metal scribe.

The following day I add a coat or two of red primer to seal the etch and go over the script again an hour or two after (the worst / most tense part of the job).
I then leave it another day and gently flat sand the red with 2000 grit Wet and Dry, hopefully without going down to the etch primer, then blow it clean with an air duster.

Next comes the top coat, where I chose to use a satin black high temp engine enamel called VHT from Frost paints in the UK, but I'm sure any similar product would be fine to use, though I do like the nozzle VHT has; sprays really fine and even.

This is where it gets really tricky in the script clearing stage, because too little drying time will drag paint from the top edge of the script groove, creating a weird effect and leaving it too long could result in chipping of the script edge, so I usually wait for at least 5 hours before attempting to clear the script of black paint (sometimes it comes out really well, and sometimes not so good....I haven't found a perfectly Ideal dry time or method yet, sadly).

For spraying I have a good paint mask and I use a rubber glove on the hand I use to hold the piece, but no glove on the spraying hand as I have had the rubber glove finger tip get in the way of the spray nozzle, causing it to splatter.

The correct way to use engine enamel is to bake it in an oven for 20 minutes, which activates all the anti chemical and hardening properties, but I have chosen to let time do it's thing.

I let the parts dry for a week and polish with carnuba wax before assembly (carnuba wax cuts the paint down to a beautiful shine without being too harsh, but still go easy or you could still go too far with it)..

This is just my own way of doing things, and I'm sure there are better methods and products. I know of some restorers that can nail the original Mitchell look, but I am happy with the results I get. During a period of early Mitchell production (within the second version era), the paint finishes look quite glossy, so I am somewhere in the ballpark I guess.

Hope this helps. 

I have added some random photos of different stages of refinishing below.

It goes on the exterior of the reel frame.

It is probably the tension washer that goes between the frame and the A/R lever —- on the A/R eccentric shaft.  Some are copper, most are steel.

Easy to get these mixed up over the years, left out, or stuck to grease.

Part #100007.

Best, Fred

I am not big on indiscriminate use of loctite but a small dab of 242 (blue) on the screw would have prevented it from happening.  The screws are tiny and easy to strip so possably using a inch pound torque screwdriver would help.  I got one of the handles secured but the screw for the other got washed over the side. 

welcome!!!

also had a couple of the shimano handles come loose.  gotta figure that one out.  it's the third one that i've heard about. 

Great fish, and a great trip!!

Howdy!

Great work!

What a KORKA restorra, great work Paul, you will fit in very good on this forum, thanks for the pics, cheers Don.