This is a test. Gonna try and post a pic. This is a early 50's squidder and here are a few pointers to help you'all to determine which era squidder you have.
Ok, well the pictures were easy to load.
Now, the squidder was black from 1938 to approx mid 60's. Then it went to dark maroon and mid 70's a bit brighter maroon color, then back to black. So, how can you tell if it's a late model black version, or the early version ? Well, if it's all original, the early version headplate has 3 words embedded for the eccentric lever. Off, gear, on. The first dark maroon reels only say off, on. That word "gear" never appears again on the squidder. So you know if your black squidder is non numbered, it's pre 1950. If your black squidder has part numbers and that word gear by the eccentric lever, then you know it's a 1950's to early 60's reel. If it has the original rod clamp and it's slotted, you know it's pre 1954. Sometimes It's tough dating an old reel without the box or papers.
Nice explanation, Ted. Never noticed that. Always helpful to have more info like that on our site.
Thanks,
Dom
Looks like ya got the pic posting under control Ted! :d
And all this time I thought they wuz SQUIBBERS ???
Know Henry, thats the name of the fish, they were catching with them, cheers Don.
Ted - That is a beautiful reel, and thanks for sharing your knowledge! - john
Kidding aside or not so nearby ......
Ditto on Brewcrafter's post .
Virgin State is RARE for that .
Thanks for all you helped me with in Larnin Bout these Pin Reels.
Gonna Find My Squibber with the 3 icons on it, in the Box with xtra Spool ,Tool and paerwork to show .
Ted people always ask me about when the squidder head plate mold plug logo changes were made. I don't have an answer for them because I don't know. Was the early version the normal style of logo, then the straight word logo like you have pictured, then back to the normal style logo?
Good question Chris. I never noticed the change on the mold plug. I did just look at my late 40's squidder and it is the slanted logo. I don't own any other squidders. I'm sure a few members can help us solve the logo change question
Edit: I do have a NIB bright red 1980's 146 squidder, and it has the slanted standard logo
Ted
Thanks Ted. That's what I call a test+. + good info. If ya needa test pictures again that'ed be a good way to do it. Would like to date a LB Deluxe someday and get the size(not on stand—-?)
Got 1 dark maroon 146, "Penn Squidder" in cursive at 45degrees. So, 1960's to mid 70's. Has the Newell bars and spool.
What the heck, my 1st picture test.
Greg, please post a couple pics of your long beach deluxe
Ted
I have this squidder has the straight logo, the word gear at the shifter and part numbers so I'm thinking early 50's anyway
Right Side up
I have a maroon 140, a few maroon 146's and a NIB black 146 I'm sure I bought brand new in the early ninety's.
Ted, First thing I checked was whether you filed this in the right section so we could easily find this info again. Of course you did. You are a true master at all you do.
I'll check mine later just to see. I wonder which model I took down to build my Cortez Classic Squidder?
Ok Ted. Thanks for askin/lookin.
The reel.
Some comparison non-Deluxe reels;
1) Long Beach 60
2) LB 66
3) 113H
Interesting, the Deluxe is slightly wider than the 113H.
What do you think about the possible spool capacity of the Deluxe compared to the others?
Even though the arbor on the 113H is thicker, the spool flange height is prolly bout 1/8"higher, than that of the Deluxe, from arbor to the top of the flange. So, more capacity on the Senator? Still, there is that slightly wider width on the Deluxe spool... And the flanges on the Deluxe, have less angle to the taper. Could be an optical illusion but the LB Deluxe looks like it could hold more, or a equal amount of line...?
The stand; no yardage stamp...?
It just occurred to me that the Deluxe has a 3 screw stand + 6 posts. The 113H has the 3 screw stand, but only 5 posts, hmmm...maybe the Senator still has a strength advantage because of the placement of that lone post—top-center.
Oh!, oh!, oh! Lookin at my older reels, I just saw somethin else; the relatively narrow 2/0 Senator, has 3 stand screws, 6-posts on the bottom half—- pretty solid lookin for a Penn post framed reel. I put a top-center post(#7)on mine, primarily to reduce the plate to ring gap caused by Bakelite swelling——ooouuu, that's solid lil' Senator now!
Nice reel G
I looked it up in Penn history book and confirmed my thoughts. Your reel is a 300yd 65DL. It was made from 1937-1941. It was then rebranded as the 3/0 senator. The DL models (DL60,DL65, & DL66) are highly sought after in any condition as long as it's all original. Yours is easily $200+ all day every day :al
I got rid of my Penn conventionals last year when cleaning out the front half of the storage container.
Just kept my 10 Reel set of Senators —- plus an example of other reels —- maybe only 75 total.
But Squidders have always been a favorite for me. So I generally have a few on hand for folks. 140, 145, 146.
IMO, the Squidder is one of the most under-appreciated and least understood of the Penn Conventionals.
A truly great reel that has now sadly been discontinued.
Best, Fred
Fred, I agree. The squidder is a good reel intended for long casting. The drawback was always the price. Since 1939 introduction it was more of a rich man's reel. The Surfmaster has always been a poor man's squidder, and the Surfmaster far outsold the squidder into the 1960's. As other models nudged up in price, the squidder was $25 in 1939, and still $25 in late 50's. The surfmaster was $12 in 1940 and $16 in late 50's. Squidders slowly become much more popular and more affordable for the average working class folks. At the same time Surfmasters began to fade off into oblivion.
Now Fred, I have an inquiry about your squidders. What's with the one with an extra bar on top ??
Ted, that is an old aftermarket anti-backlash system that uses spool brakes inside the tail plate.
This was designed by a fellow out of Long Island, John Parsenan.
It works very well.
Because it requires drilling through the tail plate —- and the position and orientation must be just right —- not many shops carried these.
Most of these reels with the anti-backlash device were sent into John so he could install the device properly using jigs & the experience of the creator.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=21590.msg236151#msg236151
Here is a write up on this device done here around 5 years ago.
Best, Fred
Man talking bout going around the Block to get across the Steet!
Don't see those around much on E-bay .
Does it work similar to the Ocean City version of that .?
Quote from: Wompus Cat on March 17, 2022, 10:28:40 PMMan talking bout going around the Block to get across the Steet!
Don't see those around much on E-bay .
Does it work similar to the Ocean City version of that .?
I wouldn't know anything about the OC version, Henry —-
But I did some tests with this about 5 years ago —- and it flat out works —- is quickly adjustable —- a the installation is professional.
Impossible to get a backlash — but when distance casting, there is absolutely no resistance. Great for Stripers in the surf.
Best, Fred
If you didn't know —- you would think it is factory OEM
Quote from: foakes on March 17, 2022, 10:58:48 PMQuote from: Wompus Cat on March 17, 2022, 10:28:40 PMMan talking bout going around the Block to get across the Steet!
Don't see those around much on E-bay .
Does it work similar to the Ocean City version of that .?
I wouldn't know anything about the OC version, Henry —-
But I did some tests with this about 5 years ago —- and it flat out works —- is quickly adjustable —- a the installation is professional.
Impossible to get a backlash — but when distance casting, there is absolutely no resistance. Great for Stripers in the surf.
Best, Fred
If you didn't know —- you would think it is factory OEM
Ocean City made the Farcast in several Sizes .You threaded the line through the wire out front and when casting the weight of the lure/sinker/bait would push down on the lever and she would free spool to beat the band and when it hit the water the line slacked up an BAM the spool would stop.The Ocean City still had a clicker too.
Most peeps removed it though and most of the Reels you get has open slots where the lever use to go.
Thanks for showing this one in its essence !
Yes, that is how this one works also, Henry —-
Best, Fred
What springs the lever back ?
Bet you can't find brake shoes at Many Moe and Mac's place either ........ ;D
Quote from: Wompus Cat on March 18, 2022, 12:57:37 AMWhat springs the lever back ?
Bet you can't find brake shoes at Many Moe and Mac's place either ........ ;D
There is a bail-like clock spring that is thumb-adjustable to bring the arm back.
These mechanisms are about as rare as reel things get.
Not going to find them at Ace, Home Depot, or Pep-Boys.
Best, Fred
When I sold that to you years ago Fred I thought the same then as I do now, it was very unusual but too spindly for my tastes. I am happy to see you kept it.
More date info...
Assuming this reel is all original, and knowing the slotted clamp phased out in 1954, and 1st year for a metal squidder spool was 1952...this squidder would date 1952-1954
Hi Ted,
An exquisite Reel - well done!
That reel still has the earlier, squared off ends to the reel foot - by 1953 Penn started making their reel feet with sleeker, semi-dovetailed ends that would have been easier to fit into the rod clamps - so fisherman didn't have to take to their reels with a file/grinder to make the reel fit.
Hi Greg - that Long Beach Deluxe is a 1939 model - it has a blank left side tailplate with the waffle clicker.
The 1940/41 LB deluxe's had a scenic tailplate(lighthouse/beach/sea/seabirds etc) and the 'Kiss clicker'.
Cheers
Martin
'39. Cool thanks Martin! I put a tag on it and now I can get it right; a 1939 DL 65.