I have recently switch to 10 and 15 pound braid for fluke fishing on Long Island and have been having a lot of problems with the knot slipping at the swivel which did not happen with 20 pound braid . Any suggestions ? I mainly use power pro braid .
I have a lot of faith in the palomar, or double palomar, knot:
https://www.takemefishing.org/how-to-fish/fishing-knots-and-rigs/how-to-tie-palomar-knots/
used to double-up for uni or go through eye twice for palomar -- worked OK, too bulky, too many tag ends
like Fish-N-Fool much better for small/quick/symmetrical knot in un-doubled lighter braid
just go through the eye twice, then uni... up to 8 turns for extra thin/slippery braid (maybe only 5 if it's heavier & slightly worn)
CHEAP OLD SOB BONUS: sometimes you want to trim many feet of worn braid intentionally
sometimes it's fine & you don't want to loose 6" every time you retie
w/ a little practice you can get the tag end down to <1/2" -- no cutting / straight to fire-trim
After you get it sorted out, you could try tying the braid directly to the leader using an FG knot.
The lighter the line, the more turns in the knot.
Quote from: MarkT on June 20, 2021, 08:03:29 PM
The lighter the line, the more turns in the knot.
This,
I use the good old Trilene knot for most anything, and a surgeon's loop for attaching a some jigs and swivels. With 15 pound braid I would use no less that 12 turns for the Trilene and 3 passes for the surgeon's loop, 4 is probably better.
I am also a Palomar knot fan for tying braid to a swivel. Never had one fail.
A granny knot in the tag-end of whatever main knot you choose. Pull the granny tight up against the main knot, then trim right-up against the granny.
Thanks for the granny knot tip. What can it hert! :). Good luck everyone
My 2c... just don't ever tie braid directly to terminal tackle.
FG or PR to leader, or a bimini for loop-to-loop with a wind-on if you're using heavy tackle. Then whatever knot you like onto your terminal tackle.
If you have to tie a granny knot in your tag end to stop your knot falling apart, then it isn't a good knot.
Quote from: boon on June 23, 2021, 09:07:04 PM
My 2c... just don't ever tie braid directly to terminal tackle.
Can you elaborate on why knot :) ? Thanks, I do, but would like to know more!
Rob
ditto... if abrasion at terminal end is not a concern
and I get all the shock absorption I need from longer, more moderate rod,
I rather like BRAID-TO-SWIVEL, then leader
Quote from: JoseCuervo on June 23, 2021, 11:59:51 PM
Quote from: boon on June 23, 2021, 09:07:04 PM
My 2c... just don't ever tie braid directly to terminal tackle.
Can you elaborate on why knot :) ? Thanks, I do, but would like to know more!
Rob
Braid has a nasty habit of cutting into itself when it's really cinched down on. The braid-to-leader knots that are any good are made in such a way that you never really have braid pulling hard against braid; they use lots of wraps around the leader instead.
Might be OK with heavy braid but if you're fishing in, say, 15-20lb territory the braid is so thin that it gets really slicy.
I caught about 20 ling cod and a couple halibut last week that were not so happy that 65# braid to swivel works.
The Man
I use the granny on mono too. You can leave the whole knot somewhat loose and let the fish pull it tight, then check and re-tie if the braid got too tight. Difficult to "tie-on-the-fly", but you can double the braid, add the tag-end granny, then tie.
What knot have you been using that's slipping? Try adding more turns and see if it holds then.
I have tried the palomar and had poor results after a few seabass it seamed to just come apart under load. Tried the clinch knot today with 8 turns ,I usually did 5 or 6 and even with double header 3 -4 pound seabags it held up fine ...Thanks for the help guys
What are swivels for, anyway?
To stop line twist while trolling, in a current, using spoons & twisting lures especially with spinning reels, quick change (snap swivels) of lures, drop lines, rigged baits, & leaders among other uses. The list can go on & on.......& on.
Quote from: RowdyW on June 27, 2021, 06:49:18 AM
To stop line twist while trolling, in a current, using spoons & twisting lures especially with spinning reels, quick change (snap swivels) of lures, drop lines, rigged baits, & leaders among other uses. The list can go on & on.......& on.
He is fluke fishing. I don't know about fluke fishing but I know about flounder fishing and would never use a swivel. It's just something else to snag.
Spinning reels twist the line on the cast, and untwist the line on the retrieve.
Barrel swivels do not do much swiveling anyway. Need ball bearings.
I'd worry more about the sinker or hook snagging then the swivel. The swivel would be above the leader & nowhere near the bottom. I used to fish for flounder in an inlet with the tide running in & out which caused line twist if you didn't use a swivel especially when using a spinning reel. Swivels aren't neccessary when using a stick & string. :D
Swivels have weight. They try to sink to the bottom and pull your line and leader down with it.
Fishing on rough bottom you want the jig to land lightly on the bottom and then jump up (more or less) when you give it a twitch. The only reason the jig can jump up and not be jerked sideways is because the line and leader are acting like a parachute. They have a lower density and are sinking more slowly than the jig. A swivel screws it all up.,