This is a Duel 6/0 two-speed. It's made in Italy and is rated to hold 800 yards of 50lb.
As far as I'm aware, the 6/0 generates nearly 20lbs of drag at the strike setting and nearly 33lbs at full.
I've heard of settings basically twice that, ie 32lbs at strike and more than 65lbs at full, with the addition of a few more drag springs, but have never tested this myself.
Certainly, the frame and engineering seem well able for this kind of capacity - it's beautifully made and built like the proverbial brick 'outhouse'.
Righto, let's kick it off...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_34_23_19996952.jpeg)
First up, off with the gearbox assembly screws.
This won't release the gearbox as it's also fastened from the inside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_34_23_199981222.jpeg)
Unfasten the handle...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_34_23_19999276.jpeg)
Remove the drag dial screw and the lever grip.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_34_24_200001703.jpeg)
Off comes the dial, revealing the final right side plate screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_34_22_19996964.jpeg)
The whole assembly will come away from the frame now.
There's a good amount of corrosion visible around the main shaft bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_24_199691717.jpeg)
The first drag plate is visible and floats on top of the remaining drag washers, which are held beneath a housing ring.
Remove the spool and put aside for now.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_23_199681933.jpeg)
We'll remove the gearbox now.
The outer screw is just a 'sump plug', so doesn't necessarily need removing now, but if you're planning a full dismantle you might as well strip it all down.
On the inside of the plate is another hex head which releases the whole gearbox from the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_24_19970484.jpeg)
Here you'll see the clutch level and drag feed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_24_19971864.jpeg)
From the inside, pop out the bearing and thrust bear (B).
Remove both screws from the inside of the gearbox assembly - they'll have Loctite on 'em, so be firm (yet cautious).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_25_199721541.jpeg)
Remove the last gearbox screw and the gearbox housing will pop off.
I was very excited to see in here and wasn't disappointed - look at that!
You'll note that the housing is sealed with a rubber ring, so the housing acts as a wet sump containing a small reservoir of oil.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_25_199732051.jpeg)
Slide each gear out separately, clean, re-grease and replace.
In this instance, the whole assembly appeared basically new, so I didn't feel the need to split the two-speed gears, just cleaning, greasing and replacing.
Apply a bead of grease along the cavity in the edge of the gearbox housing and reinsert the rubber seal.
Refasten the housing to the reel-side plate and apply a little Loctite (or similar) to the two internal screws.
The third internal screw wasn't Loctited, so simply reinsert and tighten well.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_25_199742434.jpeg)
Once everything has been cleaned thoroughly and given a thin coat of marine grease, replace the delrin ring and washer into the side plate, followed by the clutch lever and drag feed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_25_19975455.jpeg)
Slide the plastic washer (16/1) back down the shaft and bed-in as shown.
Replace the thrust bear (B) and refit the main right side bearing (which has had its shields removed, been cleaned with 556 and carb cleaner, and packed with high-quality marine grease).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_26_1994176.jpeg)
Slide the gearbox assembly and main shaft through the right side plate and refasten first with the inside screw.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_26_199771018.jpeg)
I couldn't find any information on exactly how much lubricant the reservoir holds, but simply matched with what was there - about 1/2 a teaspoon.
Replace the sump plug before it gets everywhere...
Put the whole side back together as follows.
You'll find, however, that the drag dial and lever grip will need to be removed again to refasten the right side plate to the frame - d'oh!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_26_199781989.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_25_26_1997953.jpeg)
Replace the handle, grease and fasten down.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_32_59_199801701.jpeg)
Now, on to the drag plates. Retrieve the spool and start on the right side.
Remove the housing ring and lift out the first eared carbon washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_32_59_1998273.jpeg)
Remove the second stainless drag plate, followed by the second carbon plate (hence the 'Duel' name, I expect).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_32_59_199832085.jpeg)
Remove the base drag plate to reveal the spring assembly and right side spool bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_00_19984919.jpeg)
Flip the spool over the remove the click disc, bearing spacer and left side spool bearing.
Clean, grease and reassemble as shown.
I greased both spool bearings as a reel of this size is highly unlikely to be cast - livies and trolling only I'd say.
Don't forget to replace the the bearing spacer (which slips into the left side bearing).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_00_199851691.jpeg)
Clean the springs and spool, apply a coat of grease and start back on the drag.
Grease each plate well with Cal's.
This is where you can upgrade the drag by doubling the number of drag springs (from 12 to 24) to produce those higher drag pressures mentioned earlier.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_00_1998687.jpeg)
Replace the first carbon plate, well greased, followed by the second metal plate and second carbon plate.
Replace the drag housing ring and put aside for now.
Back to the frame - remove the lugs and plastic ring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_00_199871020.jpeg)
Flip over and remove the left-side plate, lugs and plastic ring.
Remove the stand screws and stand. Clean all parts thoroughly (ie lugs, plastic rings and stand) and grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_01_19988177.jpeg)
Remove the preset drag knob and disassemble.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_02_199891680.jpeg)
Clean, grease and reassemble.
Once again, the spool bearing should have the shields removed, be cleaned and repacked, then the shields can be reinserted.
Slide the bearing back into the box seat and slip it back into the left side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_02_199902137.jpeg)
Here's how the reel seat fits together and how the plastic ring aligns.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_03_19991596.jpeg)
Replace the right side spool bearing and fasten down the remaing reel seat parts.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_03_199921271.jpeg)
Fit the last stainless steel drag plate and slip the shaft back into the spool assembly - nearly there now!
Fasten down the right side plate screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_03_199931089.jpeg)
Refit the drag dial and lever grip.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_03_199941656.jpeg)
Fasten down the right side plate screws and give the whole unit a once over with a clean(ish) towel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_33_04_19995137.jpeg)
And that's that!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/3590_04_08_17_6_32_58_19980125.jpeg)
Hope that's of some interest.
It appears to be a supremely strong reel and I really like the gearbox system, producing 3.4:1 forwards and 1.4:1 when wound in reverse.
All the best, Justin
Wow. Great job! I've never seen a Duel and was curious what they were like. Your tutorial showed me. Thanks. Now I've got to make that 10 minute drive to the boat so I can get out a catch a few buttfish. I know it's a tough job but someone has to do it...
Nice reel Justin , is it yours? Me and that reel have a lot in common, we're both tough and made in italy ;D ;D. I though about getting one in the past, I heard that they where great reels but had no idea on how it would be for maintenance, thanks to you it doesn't look that hard to work on, or maybe you just make it look easy :-\
Cheers lads - much appreciated.
akfish - is that a real fish or slang for halibut! ;)
No, not mine Sal.
I wouldn't mind one as they seem quite exceptional in design and construction, but the 6/0 is a monster of a reel - more than 5lbs without line.
Even the largest Talica is only 26oz.
I can't help but wonder if, like my Penn 10/0, reels like this are becoming dinosaurs.
These days, there's an array of smaller, lighter reels made from better materials, that generate comparable drag pressures and hold sufficient line for just about anything you could hook.
Still, I'd never part with my big Penn and always keep it ready for action...
Maybe I'm just getting old. ;D
You're not the only one ;)
Buttfish is a common term for halibut.
Akfish, I'm hoping that you don't use that term when you'e serving it around your table ;D.
Great job on the tutorial! I have 2 speedy 20's (single speeds)... do ya think it's similar. You may have just given me the confidence to give mine a shot.
Thanks
Dom
PS- Sal, (tough, Italian) you forgot, well- lubricated ;D
Thanks
Dom
Thanks Dom.
Duel appear to use a broadly similar template across their reels.
Here's the schematic for the two-speed: http://www.bluewater.net.au/catalog/images/schem_duel_two_speed.pdf (http://www.bluewater.net.au/catalog/images/schem_duel_two_speed.pdf).
Here's the schematic for their one-speed range: http://www.bluewater.net.au/catalog/images/schem_duel_one_speed.pdf (http://www.bluewater.net.au/catalog/images/schem_duel_one_speed.pdf)
And here's the schematic for your Speedy 20: http://www.bluewater.net.au/catalog/images/Duel_Speedy_20.PDF (http://www.bluewater.net.au/catalog/images/Duel_Speedy_20.PDF).
Hope that's of some assistance.
Cheers, Justin
Quote from: akfish on August 09, 2011, 02:52:03 AM
Buttfish is a common term for halibut.
I was explaing last weekend why one of my saved waypoints is Russ butt.
Quote from: akfish on August 08, 2011, 11:39:46 AM
Now I've got to make that 10 minute drive to the boat so I can get out a catch a few buttfish. I know it's a tough job but someone has to do it...
Must be nice to have a season that's open more than thurs friday, sat, "til the quota is reached",
Hi Justin..
Some solid gearing it that reel, great work
Cheers Clem.
Seems people are interested, so I'll strip the gears back out and run through the assembly in more detail tomorrow night.
All the best, Justin
That would be great Justin, that Latin quote is perfect for you. ;)
Great!
Thanks,
Dom
Quote from: redsetta on August 08, 2011, 11:25:29 PM
I can't help but wonder if, like my Penn 10/0, reels like this are becoming dinosaurs.
It may seem that way but unlike the dinosaurs, reels such as those from Duel, Alutecnos and Everol will never die out, they were built with longevity in mind. Long after parts for Daiwa, Shimano and the Pure Fishing range have been consigned to the "obsolete" bin, there'll still be someone at the three named Italian manufacturers, who has the capability to rise from his desk, go to a machine and make the parts required.
I reckon you're spot on codhead - there's no substitute for high-quality design, it's timeless.
I dismantled the Duel again tonight to have a more detailed look at the gearbox before it goes back to the owner.
If anything, it served to reinforce my respect for this design!
Here's what I found...
Here's the gearbox disassembled.
Pull out the right-hand 'idler' gear.
There's a brass washer that sits atop this gear, but usually sticks to the reel body when it separates.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_17_03_20792576.jpeg)
Pull out the two-speed assembly (which incorporates the anti-reverse bearings).
Slide off the two gear cogs to reveal the dual anti-reverse assemblies.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_45_20794777.jpeg)
The six rollers slip right out, but you'll have to remove the push-rods from each cavity.
The springs simply slide in.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_45_20795176.jpeg)
I've cleaned the gear shaft well as, like all anti-reverse bearings, grease diminishes its functional efficiency.
Slip the push-rods back into each cleaned cavity and realign the rollers.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_45_20796908.jpeg)
Here's the first gear and anti-reverse mechanism fully assembled.
For interest's sake, here's the separated spring and push-rod.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_46_20797164.jpeg)
The spring slides down inside as mentioned earlier.
In order to get the gear on over the anti-reverse rollers, simply place the gear over the assembly, then slide each roller in afterwards.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_46_207981004.jpeg)
Here's the finished two-speed and anti-reverse assembly, and inserted back into the gearbox housing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_47_20799913.jpeg)
Replace the second 'idler' gear and brass washer, and... job done.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_18_47_208001825.jpeg)
Reattach as per the original post above.
Given the wet sump protects the gearbox from build-up and corrosion, I reckon this design this basically flawless.
It's a beautiful bit of gear and was a pleasure to work on.
Righto - all the best, Justin
Great job Justin. I have been using these reels for years and caught many Striped Marlin on them. Most guys on the boat moan and gripe whan they see them and complain about having to wind backwards to use low gear. Then a Marlin jumps on and they think its the best thing since slided cheese no buttons and fumbling around. The sticky drag syndrome seems to be their biggest shortcoming it can drive you to the drink. The newer drag washers seem to help. The old ones are a sort of cardboard substance that swells up with oil and grease ingress and you loose free spool. One thinig I note from you photos is the gearbox is not oil filled as all mine are. I use the boats power steering oil that works very well. They sure are smooth to use.
Jeremy
Cheers Jeremy - appreciate the feedback.
They're great reels and definitely built to last.
Though I mentioned it had a wet sump, I forgot to say that I added about 20ml of good-quality engine oil (mixed with a little Inox) to the gearbox.
All the best, Justin