So I bought myself another JM and this one I got from 360tuna.com by a former member. It was barely used. The first thing I noticed was that it made another sound than my other jm's when cranking the reel. My first suspicion was right. one of the two dogs had lost contact with the spring, so only one dog was meshing. Thankfully I found the wire that conected the spring and after a while I managed to assemble it and get it back on track. I tried making this rebuild more structural so enjoy. 108 pics to come!
What you need is pretty much a small torx, different screw drivers, a c ring plier and a wrench. a torx is provided by JM so thank you!
I am trying a mix og greases here, daiwa reel grease inside the house and daiwa drag grease on the washers (I am out of cal's that I got from Alan). and reelX on the bearings. (sorry I did not open them but I figured since the reel was tip top shape I figured I would get away with some reel X)
out of the box it put up about 45-50 seconds. Lets see after reelX is used on those bearings. Enjoy!
my table of tools. pretty much a lot of grease, some standard tools, and a cleaning agent.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04164-1.jpg)
the reel and parts provided by JM. Check out that cute torx!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04165-1.jpg)
before doing anything remember to tape the spool and mark an arrow for the line going out (so you will assemble it back right)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04167-1.jpg)
first off is the reel seat and clamp screws. use umbraco on the reelseat and a wrench on the clamp screws.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04166-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04168-1.jpg)
salt!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04170-1.jpg)
into cleaning agent (high alcohol cleaner)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04172-1.jpg)
off with the clamp screws, nasty stuff too. be careful there is a retainer on each of them.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04173-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04174-1.jpg)
after cleaing and whiping into a clean surfice, grease the area.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04175-1.jpg)
add some grease on all the screws (clamp and reel seat screws)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04176-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04178-1.jpg)
assemble it tightly back on.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04179-1.jpg)
now on to the reel guts. I used the JM torx. (this will help you not screwing it back in too tight since thiese screws are tiny)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04180-1.jpg)
four screws off and the main frame goes out separating it from the side frame and spool.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04181-1.jpg)
remove the plastic clicker to get a neat surfice to clean and grease.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04184-1.jpg)
once the house is clean add a film of grease. I used daiwa reel grease. much like the cals drag grease but a little lighter.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04186-1.jpg)
after greasing the house I put some reelX in the closed bearing. This bearing is locked with a strong retainer ring.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04187-1.jpg)
screw the clicker assembly back in and grease that too. frame house is then done!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04189-1.jpg)
too seperate the spool from the gear frame you first take off the preset screw. (I used a penn tool I got from Alan ;D)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04190-1.jpg)
remove the drag cam screw with a star wrench. You have to Tighten the drag pretty much to do so.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04192-1.jpg)
out goes the drag cam and the lever assembly goes out freely. there is a plastic washer behind it, and a bearing inside the drag cam.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04193-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04194-1.jpg)
now seperate the spool from the gear house.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04195-1.jpg)
all main components disassembled
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04196-1.jpg)
back to the lever drag (all parts are cleaned in cleaning solution and greased axcept the bearing that I used reelX
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04197-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04198-1.jpg)
the metal washer with dog and main gear is removed
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04199-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04200-2.jpg)
careful when pulling out the sleeve. The is a spring there and inside the ingraving on the spool there is a bearing
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04201-2.jpg)
on the other side remove the drag washer shields
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04202-2.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04203-2.jpg)
pull out the sleeve
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04204-2.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04205-1.jpg)
as you pull out the sleeve the bearing and spring is attached on the sleeve but not on the other side so the spring and bearing will fall out. Be careful here!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04206-1.jpg)
the spool system semi-disessembled.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04208-1.jpg)
I added reel X on the bearings and the sleeve
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04209-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04211-1.jpg)
check out the freespooling sleeve (clean and use light oil)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04210-1.jpg)
remove retainer and washer with a thin screwdriver. be careful the carbon can easily be torn apart!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04212-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04213-1.jpg)
add a thin coat of grease. I used daiwa drag grease.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04214-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04215-1.jpg)
I also turned the disks and added some grease. Then brush it evenly out and wipe off excess.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04216-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04217-1.jpg)
now same on the other side. this is a dual drag reel
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04218-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04219-1.jpg)
back on with the spring first, then the bearing.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04220-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04221-1.jpg)
grease the outside of the washer
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04222-1.jpg)
and of course clean the metal washer.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04223-1.jpg)
back on with the gear assembly and grease well.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04224-1.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04225.jpg)
back on with the shield and the spool is done.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04226.jpg)
now on to the main gear assembly, remove the three screws with a star screwdriver
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04227.jpg)
Now turn the reel around and screw out the handle cap, then the safety ring and then the handle nut.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04228.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04229.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04230.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04231.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04232.jpg)
off goes the handle. there is a plastic washer and a metal ring behind the handle and a metal ring on the outside of the handle where the handle nut is mounted, careful!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04233.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04234.jpg)
now you can pull out the main gear
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04235.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04236.jpg)
now remove the sleeve that holds the ar bearing and two rollers with a star screw driver
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04237.jpg)
I could not get any of the bearings out of this thing so I took a shortcut and added some reelX on inside it after cleaning the best I could
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04239.jpg)
Now let that rest and go onto the gear house, and clean and lube it up well. First off is the bearing I used reelX.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04240.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04241.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04242.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04245.jpg)
grease the Ar bearing sleeve and put back in.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04246.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04247.jpg)
then you put the main gear back in
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04248.jpg)
and screw the cover back on. remember the washer inbetween, and grease it well
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04249.jpg)
Now that the gear is mounted nice and tight. Go on to the other side and start assembling the handle again. first metal ring then plastic washer
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04250.jpg)
slide the handle into place and screw the handle nut tight back on
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04251.jpg)
then retainer
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04252.jpg)
then the cap. screw the torx back on tight. note that there is an ingraving inside this so you have to match it with the screw from the retainer to make it fit.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04253.jpg)
Now slide the spool back in
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04254.jpg)
assemble the spool and gear plate with the house. (use the JM torx so you wont put too much pressure on those small things
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04255.jpg)
add the plastic washer
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04256.jpg)
put the lever assembly back on in free position
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04257.jpg)
then the drag cam ( allign it with the ingravings inside the lever assembly
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04258.jpg)
in with the bearing
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04259.jpg)
on with the spool screw
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04260.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04261.jpg)
and the outside nut
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04278.jpg)
now last thing before it's a wrap is the handle. remove the fancy golden nut with a c ring plier. (clockwise)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04263.jpg)
remove the umbraco screw btw. check out the salt. That screw was tough to get out. A lot of salt made it hard.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04264.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04266.jpg)
clean!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04267.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04268.jpg)
pull out the female that connects the t-bar to the handle arm. and clean, grease it outside and in.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04269.jpg)
remove the main screw to the handle (clockwise) and the screw that goes from the t-bar(anti clockwise)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04270.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04271.jpg)
then all you have is the inside shaft and a bearing.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04273.jpg)
add some reelX on that cute thing
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04274.jpg)
and add grease on it all
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04275.jpg)
back on with the outside sleeve and align the female bolt inside the shaft so you can mount the t-bar knob.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04276.jpg)
then slide in the t- bar and screw it tight back on. It may take some time to align the female with the bolt that goes through. A tip is to add a lot og grease it gets sticky, that way it wont slide around.
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04277.jpg)
back on with the gold nut (sorry forgot to take photo) And you are done!
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04279.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/DSC04278.jpg)
After this I got around a minute freespool. Not that impressed but okey I guess.
Sorry for the bad English. I do not know what all the parts are called. please give pointers! best regards from Norway.
hafnor, are you certain that the blue daiwa grease is intended for drags? it has to be a teflon product!
Hi Hafnor,
Try removing the shields on the spool bearings..
I removed mine on my PE3 and 5N - I cleaned them in white spirit spun them up a few times and then dried them off..added 2 drops of ReelX to each and spun them a few times, once they had sat a while I blew out the excess with air, will spin for approx 2 mins..if that is not overly important to you, just don't blow them out..
By the way do you have PE7 or 8? just curious as to the size of the pinion (my PE3 and 5N are the same, 7 mm x 7 mm - at the handle)
Quote from: alantani on August 10, 2011, 03:19:09 AM
hafnor, are you certain that the blue daiwa grease is intended for drags? it has to be a teflon product!
Wow, right now I got really uncertain and scared. I was told it was in a store but there is no content information on it... how would I know? I have to get some cal's I guess.
Hi Hafnor,
Try removing the shields on the spool bearings..
I removed mine on my PE3 and 5N - I cleaned them in white spirit spun them up a few times and then dried them off..added 2 drops of ReelX to each and spun them a few times, once they had sat a while I blew out the excess with air, will spin for approx 2 mins..if that is not overly important to you, just don't blow them out..
By the way do you have PE7 or 8? just curious as to the size of the pinion (my PE3 and 5N are the same, 7 mm x 7 mm - at the handle)
I have a pe8 and a pe6 that I could check out. You mean the pinion that goes through the spool or the handle arm length? because I added that to your pe5n post If I am not mistaking
Hi..the through the handle
something to bear in mind, and i mean no disrespect to your local tackle guy, but there is a possibility that you know more about field stripping and servicing a reel than he does........ :-\
I agree with Alan..Boca do a teflon based grease, white in color..quite messy though
Quote from: alantani on August 10, 2011, 04:18:52 PM
something to bear in mind, and i mean no disrespect to your local tackle guy, but there is a possibility that you know more about field stripping and servicing a reel than he does........ :-\
Okey. Thank you than Alan. So all I do is just clean off as much grease I can and replace with cal's?
Just out of curiosity, what is the worst thing that can happen to my reel when using wrong grease?
Quote from: Clem on August 10, 2011, 03:29:53 PM
Hi..the through the handle
Sorry for this but I do not know what you mean... ??
the drags might stick. if you clean off the old grease with an old towel, then apply new grease and work that out as well, i'll bet you should be fine. alan
Hi Hafnor
Sorry I meant to say where the handle attaches to the pinion or handle shaft,
So I did what I was told. I removed all the grease on the carbonfiber drag discs and I took off all the shield in every bearing except the two roller bearings inside the handle shaft. I bathed them in white spirit, spun them around, used air to remove old grease and repeated. After that I added some reel X on those bearings and slapped it back in. I did not put the shield back on so the reel feels sort of voulnerable, but I check my reels after every trip so now it is easy to clean the bearings. Now on to the freespool time. I could not believe this. That reelX is magic, pure magic. Thank you clem for the great advise and you Alan for taking time warning me on that grease trouble I had. The freespool now is astonishing. 2,05mins of freespool. Imagine the casting length on that thing. WOW. I am amazed. Again Thank you. All I need now is some cal's and I will be good to go.
One thing tho. Should I pack the other bearings with grease except the spool bearings. Just to be safe?
Best regards from Norway.
Hafnor
yes, packing the bearings would be best. can you send me a pm with your address? thanks! alan
Okey. Will do. ;D
Hi All!
Where do i can find the J.M reel schematic PE concept?
regards,
Dudi
Been trying to find them but I just can't. I could scan them into my computer. I have the pe8,6 and 4
is that the dual drag reel?
yes. If you order the JM reels outside the US you are certain that all are dual drags. The models distributed in the US will have one of the drags removed
schematics for JM pe4, pe6 and pe8
Sorry the scanner didn't work but I guess this works.
pe4:
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/8e667eee.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/aed4601d.jpg)
pe6
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/dc83fc1a.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/a84f634d.jpg)
pe8
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/57ceb914.jpg)
(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/0b595937.jpg)
posted this in the schematics forum too.
Excellent work Hafnor.
Just to clarify a few things.
The gold cap on the T-handle (silver on some models) is a standard right hand thread (turn anti-clockwise to undo).
The handle knob screw 1 - part #104 - (PE 6 & PE8 schematics) that connects the T-handle nail to the reel arm is a left hand thread (turn clockwise to undo) and so is the handle knob screw 2 - part #105 - at the other end of the same T-handle nail. These two screws are the only left hand threaded ones in the JM reels. Easy to forget though and snap them off in the T-handle nail.
I noticed the second parts list included actual ball bearing sizes. Pity other manufacturers don't follow this practice. ;)
there is just a tiny bit of locktite on the screws to the main gear on the JM's, nothing else, atleast not on mine... But as I have worked with 4-5 jm pe reels all seems to be a bit different. small changes are being done regurarly... so I can not be sure.
Quote from: basto on April 12, 2012, 01:22:30 AM
Hi Chopsticks
Do you know if part 104 is assembled with locktite? I have had difficulty trying to unscrew it. I am aware that it is reverse threaded.
I tried heating it up a bit with a hair dryer(a method that has worked for me before), but the part it screws into just turns with it.
I don`t know what to try next.
Hi Basto,
Sorry for the late reply. Haven't been on here for quite some time.
Yes, the handle knob screw 1, part #104, can be really tight and usually has a small amount of locktite on it as Hafnor said. It's turning because the handle knob screw, part #105, inside, at the other end of the T handle nail is turning. Try this; remove the reel arm from the reel. Remove the T-Bar handle and handle shaft retainer, part #2. Place a stumpy screwdriver (by the handle) of the appropriate blade size in a vice so that the blade is pointing skywards. Invert the handle shaft coat, part #40, over the screwdriver so that the blade is inserted in the the handle knob screw 2, part #105, and unscrew part #104.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tutorial Hafnor, I am doing a JM pe4 this weekend for the first time. I am always a little insecure, when doing a customer
reel that I have not worked on before. Especially thanks for the scematic drawing.
/Morten
Just finished servicing the pe4.
My verdict is, if you by this reel, lube all the small screws, before using it, or you risk they get stocked forever. Easy to work on, and well made, but IMO all the screws on this reel, is way too small for a saltwater reel.
In comparison, I had the Everol V12 in for service. This Reel is without much finesse, but build like a tank. The heavily used Everol also had smoother gears, than an almost new pe4.
What also stroke me was, that even on a new pe4, some of the screws where already corroded into the frame.
Both reels where from the same owner, same use.
G'day guys my first post on here, like all you, i also enjoy tinkering with reels, im from sydney and my names Michael.. nice to meet you all!
for the sake of starting a new thread i thought i'd ask on here.. I have a jigging master pe4 and had been flawless jigging for yellow tail kingfish during the winter months in depths of 60-120m, now its summer and they move inshore so targeting them is different, i now down rig using live bait in and around structure, depths of 8-20m this meant i had to bump up my strike drag in order to stop the fish in such depths.
I bumped the strike drag to 15kg and always tested while moving up, it now has really bad binding! i wouldn't have thought it would be a problem for the reel but clearly the problem is there. it was pruchased in australia so its the dual drag washer model. i did read one thread on here someone mentioning the clutch bearing has problems with side load? have i gone too far? is 15kg at strike too much?
Cheers for the help guys!
if you are having trouble turning the handle when the reel is in gear, and then that problem goes away when the reel is out of gear, then you likely have a bad right main side plate bearing. that is the bearing that carries most of the load and is always the one to fail first.
if the handle is equally difficult to crank, both in and out of gear, then it is likely the drive shaft bearings.
the problem was likely cause by water intrusion, which caused the bearing to rust. other than getting the reel wet, you likely did nothing wrong. :-\
oh, and welcome!!!!!!!
Quote from: alantani on January 28, 2015, 08:06:49 AM
if you are having trouble turning the handle when the reel is in gear, and then that problem goes away when the reel is out of gear, then you likely have a bad right main side plate bearing. that is the bearing that carries most of the load and is always the one to fail first.
if the handle is equally difficult to crank, both in and out of gear, then it is likely the drive shaft bearings.
the problem was likely cause by water intrusion, which caused the bearing to rust. other than getting the reel wet, you likely did nothing wrong. :-\
Thanks alan, just thought i'd ask before diving in, atleast now i know what to look for, im a total newbie when it come to reels, have only ever serviced my own for about a year now which means not enough hours put in these babies.. good to know theres help here if i stuff it up
ok so upon opening her up i went straight to the bearing you mentioned Alan, bang on the money! also I've noticed some improvements to the pe4 compared to the op's one. looks like the clicker gear/ drag washer housing is all aluminium now, the clicker itself has springs rather than the plastic spring it back and the cam knob has changed too..
Anyhow back to the reel.. is there anyway to protect this bearing in such loads before i go out and buy another bearing for it only happen again? should i just buy another reel for down rigging?
order up a new bearing or two. hopefully you will be able to remove the shields, fully pack the bearing with grease and reshield the bearing.
Quote from: alantani on January 29, 2015, 10:52:32 PM
order up a new bearing or two. hopefully you will be able to remove the shields, fully pack the bearing with grease and reshield the bearing.
cheers mate, would a ceramic bearing have any advantage there? less prone to rusting?
part, maybe most, of the damage is due to compression. ceramic bearings might be more brittle, shattering under the pressure.
Quote from: alantani on January 29, 2015, 11:43:30 PM
part, maybe most, of the damage is due to compression. ceramic bearings might be more brittle, shattering under the pressure.
fair call mate ;D
I was linked this tutorial from a customer who is bringing by a PE5 and he wanted to point out a few things...
I chuckled when I saw the arrow on the tape on the spool. It reminded me of the first Accurate I sent out to a customer that the spool was in backwards...
I always tape them up with painters tape to keep the line clean, and that one happened to go back on backwards.....it is the one spool that will do that!