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#1
Quote from: oldmanjoe on Today at 10:37:24 PM
Quote from: MarkT on Today at 07:44:34 PMIf you're trying to fail, you're going about it the wrong way. You start with good knot cinched down tight and then tight wraps on the spool. Try tying a bad knot, not cinched down and then put the line on without much tension. Then you'll succeed, if that's what you call success!
:-[  Can you tell me what is a bad knot to use ,other than the basic arbor knot .  Or show some examples please , something tells me all knots can fail .
I'm not spooling up some little baitcaster with an ultra light spool so that a couple of wraps of tape doesn't matter. Even on a small baitcaster a wrap or 2 of vet wrap weights what, a couple of grams? Not a negative for performance, especially at the bottom of the spool.

I've never tied an arbor knot.  I usually go with a uni knot. But any crappy knot tied by most spooling up their reel... a few half hitches, whatever, is a bad knot. Any knot (including an arbor knot) not cinched down well is a crappy knot. Plenty of people probably assume that the knot isn't key because if a fish takes you to the knot it's probably not stopping there! Then, in addition, if you don't spool it up under tension, well, that's how it can slip on the spool!
#2
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on Today at 07:54:31 PMSo as fate would have it the experience of this afternoon gave me something to add to this.

I took a new reel to the shop to get spooled (metal spool baitcaster not a plastic spool spinner but nonetheless).

Dude looked at me funny when I said no I don't want mono backing but I do want tape on the spool. Then started a discussion about ways line fails on spools. It really highlighted how much misinformation is out there.

I hesitantly mentioned that if a knot is well tied, with a few arbor loops, anecdotal evidence shows the tape is unnecessary. but this spool has holes drilled so the tape helps with the sharp edges. And I'm glad I did it because even though his knot looked ok, I've never seen that much variation in hand-applied drag pressure on a filler spool. Including letting go entirely a few times. I don't know if I even wanna go cast this backlash factory he created, before I take it home and re-wind it.


            I am not picking on you but after reading your post , you fell into a trap ,
 " me thinks " .
    I have a hard time thinking why you took a special spool to save weight and added tape to it .  Now it is the same or more heaver that the stock spool .   The tape is now covering the hole that let water out and let the line dry .  Unless the holes were not dressed before finishing " Sharpe edges "   Machine spooling is only good as the person spooling , I prefer to spool my own reels for a reason .   OH OH if you get down to the last layer of line on the spool , your fishing technique needs tweaking . :D   
#3
The event is in Smith River
#4
Quote from: MarkT on Today at 07:44:34 PMIf you're trying to fail, you're going about it the wrong way. You start with good knot cinched down tight and then tight wraps on the spool. Try tying a bad knot, not cinched down and then put the line on without much tension. Then you'll succeed, if that's what you call success!
:-[  Can you tell me what is a bad knot to use ,other than the basic arbor knot .  Or show some examples please , something tells me all knots can fail .
#5
Hey folks. After referring with the experts here is the updated price.

$825 + $140 (17% tip) = $965

The deckhand preps the fish and charges $4 per tuna to cut out the loins. Please have $100 cash to cover the cost of fish processing (this will be more than enough to cover the costs if we fill the boat).

Thanks for putting up with me.
Nick
#6
D.A.M. Quick / Re: DAM Quick 110
Last post by foakes - Today at 08:46:47 PM
Hi Andrew —-

There is an improved trip lever on all of the 110's —- compared to a thinner trip foot on the 265's.

The existing trip lever foot can be modified slightly —- inward, downwards, whatever works —- to make better contact with the frame trip nub.

Use a smooth-jawed pair of pliers or a crescent wrench.

Best, Fred
#7
I think this kind of spooling is the kind that will slip, and most likely dig in.
#8
Quote from: Rancanfish on April 29, 2024, 10:24:09 PM
Quote from: JonM on April 29, 2024, 05:10:33 PM
Quote from: Rancanfish on April 28, 2024, 05:21:35 PMA facebook fishing group here local is having a huge get together BBQ and swap meet.  I am literally taking crates of reels to sell off.

Mind sharing the event? I may join a new group just to get an invite to a tackle swap meet :)

Jon M
Are you in Oregon?

Unfortunately not, I made the incorrect assumption that you were in NorCal, my bad...

Jon M

#9
So as fate would have it the experience of this afternoon gave me something to add to this.

I took a new reel to the shop to get spooled (metal spool baitcaster not a plastic spool spinner but nonetheless).

Dude looked at me funny when I said no I don't want mono backing but I do want tape on the spool. Then started a discussion about ways line fails on spools. It really highlighted how much misinformation is out there.

I hesitantly mentioned that if a knot is well tied, with a few arbor loops, anecdotal evidence shows the tape is unnecessary. but this spool has holes drilled so the tape helps with the sharp edges. And I'm glad I did it because even though his knot looked ok, I've never seen that much variation in hand-applied drag pressure on a filler spool. Including letting go entirely a few times. I don't know if I even wanna go cast this backlash factory he created, before I take it home and re-wind it.
#10
If you're trying to fail, you're going about it the wrong way. You start with good knot cinched down tight and then tight wraps on the spool. Try tying a bad knot, not cinched down and then put the line on without much tension. Then you'll succeed, if that's what you call success!