This post is not for the faint of heart because the initial situation was FUBAR, and the end result would probably qualify and win some kind of "The Ugliest..." contest. ::)
Back on June 2, 2012, I had just finished rebuilding the internals of my Penn Mag Power 970 and was in the process of screwing down the left side plate onto the left side ring. As I tightened the lower right screw, there was the sound of crunching plastic and the pressure against the screw immediately disappeared— ??? DAMN, I must have punched out the inner lip of the hole. Instead of disassembling it right away because I was mentally unprepared to deal with the damage, I left it as-is and finished up the remaining screws without any further incidents.
Since then, the 970 had landed at least two BFT, including my 50+ lb jackpot BFT last season with no structural failure.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/Groucho_zps1ed731ef.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/Groucho_zps1ed731ef.jpg.html)
While onshore, I had been searching Craigslist and eBay for a 970 or 980 parts reel with no success; looked for a whole reel since I wanted to replace the rings as well since a previous owner had etched his info on them. After PM'ing with "WCFLA" and, more recently, "Aiala," about their searches as well, I bit the bullet and finally sat down to remove the left side plate for an inspection. :(
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1081_zps156e02e9.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1081_zps156e02e9.jpg.html)
What I thought was a bad situation went from "bad" to "worst" real quick. :o It wasn't just the lip that just gave way, but a sizable part of the inner surface had blown out in two pieces. ***SIGH*** :'(
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1080_zps488b5d9c.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1080_zps488b5d9c.jpg.html)
Unless I was willing to spend $100+ on a 970 or 980 (the average amount observed on eBay for over a year), this was a dire situation. Even if I won one, there was no guarantee that the "replacement" plastic side plate would be problem-free given the age of even the most recent 970's and 980's. :(
The immediate idea on my mind was a creative application of epoxy...and this was collaborated as possible by posts made here by "intili" and "Irish Jigger." A closer examination of the left side plate, the damage, and the left ring was necessary before proceeding.
The damage began as a crack at the hole and expanded away outward—almost like opening a pair of double doors. I could put the pieces back in reverse order for an exact fit, but this would be tight with little space for the adhesive. So, exact fit = thin layer of epoxy-->less strength?
Or...I could do a thicker application of epoxy and just press the broken pieces STRAIGHT against the plate for a "close-enough" fit. This would use the fragments to just re-establish the inner hole position and lip but leave a greater gap between them and the plate that the epoxy would structurally fill. A thicker layer of epoxy-->greater strength?
I decided to err on the side of potential greater strength and chose the latter.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1085_zps25b42849.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1085_zps25b42849.jpg.html)
For the first step, the mixed epoxy had a 5-minute window for max strength so no photos of the application, but it was a "generous" amount as can be seen from the cured result. Started to file off the excess epoxy on the plate rim, but because the rim still had the original smooth surface that I intentionally DID NOT clean, cutting and scraping ended up being easier and faster. What oozed into the hole was to be drilled out.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1097_zpsfe678ca8.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1097_zpsfe678ca8.jpg.html)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1098_zps91b633f2.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1098_zps91b633f2.jpg.html)
The choice above essentially created a slight bulge on the inner side of the plate...BUT, the inner face of the left side plate DOES NOT sit on the ring itself--it's the rim of the side plate that serves this function. This also meant that the lip inside the screw hole provided the only structure for the pressure of the screw head with no support between the gap—an inherent design weakness IMHO. Though the epoxy is rated for "3300 psi" on the packaging, it seemed that reliance just on the repaired hole lip going forward was a bad idea.
To enhance the original structure, I took 3/16" dia. C260 brass tubing and cut off a 5/16" section, the distance from the underside of the screw head to the inner face of ring when the screw is in enough to secure and protrude out the hole on the foot. Then the original hole was re-drilled out to accommodate the new structural addition.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1090_zps744d0bd5.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1090_zps744d0bd5.jpg.html)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1088_zps8f84a982.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1088_zps8f84a982.jpg.html)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1086_zps3fa50190.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1086_zps3fa50190.jpg.html)
The 16-60CH screw head fits and sits just right on top of the tube.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1087_zpsfb2abdb0.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1087_zpsfb2abdb0.jpg.html)
The 16-60CH screw head in position for measurement.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1089_zpsb35b163f.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1089_zpsb35b163f.jpg.html)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1091_zpsbd47cbd5.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1091_zpsbd47cbd5.jpg.html)
Test fitting of tube post.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1092_zpsb3463001.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1092_zpsb3463001.jpg.html)
While drilling to expand the original hole opening, the epoxied parts crumbled around the hole edge...***SIGH*** :'( :'( :'(
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1101_zps87ba14ad.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1101_zps87ba14ad.jpg.html)
Will just have to fill with epoxy as the last stage of the repair.
After roughing up the outer surface of the brass tube, epoxy was applied to the end going into the plate, and it was inserted into the hole from the plate's inner side. Then the plate was set on to the ring, letting the ring push the tube in to the proper depth. A gentle tap against the tube from the outside in ensured that the inside end of the tube was set against the ring's inner face.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1102_zpsd2f6ace2.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1102_zpsd2f6ace2.jpg.html)
After the joining epoxy application had cured, the plate was removed for inspection, and the gap was filled with a final application of epoxy.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1105_zps0e749086.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1105_zps0e749086.jpg.html)
Prep for "final" installation. Yamaha Marine grease was liberally applied to the protruding section of the tube, the inner tube walls, and the hole as well. After the screw was put in, a q-tip cleaned up the "exposed" excess grease. Will there be some chemical compound in the grease that will dissolve the epoxy? More frequent inspections than what I previously had done will hopefully catch that.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1107_zpsbdc4bdca.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1107_zpsbdc4bdca.jpg.html)
Reassembly complete.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1108_zps19fe4b9d.jpg) (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/Amadeus_Surf/media/DSCF1108_zps19fe4b9d.jpg.html)
So what was accomplished from all the hassle above?
1. The tightened screw now presses against the tube which pushes against the ring itself, eliminating the force on just the side plate's hole lip.
2. The inner face of the hole is epoxied to the surface area of the support tube so the pressure to hold the plate in place is more distributed, which hopefully will provide a reasonable amount of support and augment what the three remain intact screw holes are providing to secure the plate.
In the end, will it hold up? Considering that I fished the reel for both the 2012 and 2013 seasons (a unequivocally clueless maneuver on my part :-[ ) and pulled in at least two BFT with absolutely NO structural support in that screw hole, I'm willing to gamble that the repair helps rather than hurts the situation. It will have to do until a reasonably priced replacement side plate...if it is ever found. :-\
The reel will be fished as a 40lb setup (@ 13 lbs drag setting) so either it holds up or blows up...a report will be forthcoming.
nice job Porthos, thanks for sharing.
Sal
Looks good Porthos. ;)
You always fish with that Groucho Marks mask on? :D
In gundome we call that pillar bedding. It probably should be done to every hole in every reel just as a matter of course. Wow, that would be a lot of work.
Really nice job on that, I'm sure the repair will outlast you.
Ron
Great job there Porthos,well done.
Bravo, Porthos!
I couldn't do that if I lived to be a hundred years old (sigh!) I'll just have to hope a 980 left-side plate turns up somehow, someday, somewhere... :P
~A~
Aiala, I haven't given up on that end plate,my Penn contact is still trying to locate one.
Maybe Aiala could send it to Porthos to get operated on, he might not be in the US though :-\.
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 23, 2014, 12:15:10 AM
Maybe Aiala could send it to Porthos to get operated on, he might not be in the US though :-\.
San Diego, CA ;D
The damage to my left side plate was such that the exterior half was still intact, allowing structural support for the repair, but even that was chipping in areas due to the aging, brittle plastic.
I was also flying by the seat of my pants the whole time since I've never done anything like it before. It was a gamble, and it seemed to have paid off for the time being.
Aiala,
Do you have a photo of your plate. I have some friends around here that do amazing things with plates.
Ron
Quote from: noyb72 on February 23, 2014, 01:04:54 AM
Aiala,
Do you have a photo of your plate. I have some friends around here that do amazing things with plates.
Ron
Ron, can you get them to defuse the plates...sorry buddy I couldn't resist. ;D
I bought a 990 and 980 when the first came out. Fished them hard for years. When the 980 side plate broke, I sold the reel for $20. :-\
Stupid move, but ebay was new, I was moving to the mountains (that didn't last) and I just didn't know any better. I now have all three reels. I bought a 970 and 980, and still have the original 990. They're great reels.
Gents, I really do appreciate all the kind offers of help and advice... y'all are the best. As for my 980, since I don't really need it to go fishing at the moment (I bought it mostly for sentimental reasons since I used to have one long ago) I'll just wait and see if something eventually turns up; eBay, or maybe Irish's friend will track down the elusive plate. After all, like most anglers, I have a LOT of patience.
In the meantime, I have more than enough to keep me busy upgrading/cleaning/fussing over my collection of Senators. Today's task: Tiburon framing the 113HLW while I watch the Daytona 500... Go, Danica & Jimmie! (http://forums.snapstream.com/vb/images/smilies/wink.gif)
~A~
Quote from: noyb72 on February 22, 2014, 10:38:26 PM...pillar bedding...
That's good to know!
Looks a LOT more involved for a firearm.
Thanks!
Wai
I also cracked my left side plate on my 970, all the way thru from one hole to another. I used two ton epoxy gel, let it set up and then filed it smooth, worked great!
************* UPDATE ***************
Well...went to inspect the repaired 970 left side and found the epoxy was holding and hard as the last time I checked, unaffected by the Yamaha Marine Grease. Unfortunately, as I re-installed the plate, the upper screw left hole did a familiar and dreaded "crunch" as I tighten the screw--it wasn't anywhere near the tightness I had previously.
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF1135_zps7c5cd13a.jpg)
The old plate (left) had failed in a new location--the split is very obvlous. Could attempt another repair BUT...having a second failure, I think it's time to let it move on to "left side plate heaven."
Good thing I had the two spare side plates (one of the new ones on the right) that I spent the last two years hunting down.
I went through this exact same hassle with one of my 980s. I epoxied the cracked left side plate, but although the reel seemed to function well, I just never felt confident that it would stand up to rigorous fishing. Then someone found me a left-side 980 plate (YAY!) which I promptly cracked during installation (EXPLETIVE DELETED!) At length, I came across a 970 left side plate, installed it with paranoid care, and voilà! I now have a perfectly-functioning, totally bodacious 980 badged as a 970! ;D
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/MP980_zpsb190ef71.jpg)
I suppose all this fussing might strike some as an excessive bother, but for those of us who love these great old Mag Power reels, it's definitely worthwhile! :)
~A~
You guys are pros, so just taking a guess here. These plates are tight to begin with, are you seating them all the way, prior to tightening the screws?
I have a couple of dozen of these reel,(yes Aiala, it didn't take me long to jump on them ;D) and I haven't had any issues with the screws and plates.
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 31, 2015, 09:53:14 PM
You guys are pros, so just taking a guess here. These plates are tight to begin with, are you seating them all the way, prior to tightening the screws?
I have a couple of dozen of these reel,(yes Aiala, it didn't take me long to jump on them ;D) and I haven't had any issues with the screws and plates.
If it was just Aiala and I having issues with the plates cracking, that's one thing, but there're others who have had the cracking as well. I had noted earlier that there is a gap between the plates and the rings because it's the outer rim of plates that sit on the rings rather than the inner face of the plates. My conjecture is that after sufficient time has past, the pressure and stress of the screws against the plate eventually weakens the plate material around the screw holes, and one will eventually crack since the "gap" provides no support to the plate under the screws. You may be right in dropping the 970 back down to 17-20lb test, just to reduce the stress on the whole reel. I've been subjecting mine to 12lbs drag from top of spool fishing 40lb test so that's almost twice as much drag.
Since I still have another spare left plate, I'm going to fish the "new" replacement until it fails (though I hope it won't for a long time). The broken plate will be replaced with the last spare, and the whole reel will then retire to a display shelf. Hopefully, by then, I'll be 100+, too old to fish the big ones, and it won't matter as much. ;)
If you did notice some space, it would then be from over tightening the screws, the outer lip on the plate fits snug with the rings. Maybe using a power drive its helping on damaging the plate, I use screwdrivers on all my reels, no power drives, usually the lowest torque stiing on those will still strip the screws, but it might be just me. :-\
These reels are very tough, I only use 17 to 20 lb because i like the feel. these could handle a little more than 12#.
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 31, 2015, 09:53:14 PM
I have a couple of dozen of these reels, (yes Aiala, it didn't take me long to jump on them ;D)...
Sal, a couple of
dozen?? (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Surprise/surprised-003.gif)
In any case, I only use screwdrivers, too, but I must say that the Mag Power side plates have always struck me as being a bit more... delicate? brittle?... than the standard Bakelite plates. Be that as it may, mine are all in fighting form now, and henceforth I will endeavor to be super-careful whenever I service them. :)
~
A~
P.S. Porthos is certainly a "pro", but me?? Uhh.... no. (http://forums.snapstream.com/vb/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Quote from: Aiala on February 01, 2015, 05:33:42 PM...P.S. Porthos is certainly a "pro", but me?? Uhh.... no...
In the same footsteps of Socrates, I will admit "I know that I know nothing."
Nothing but ol' fashion screwdrivers here as well. The lastest cracking happened before I even reached the previous tightness the screw had been. The two top ones I'm not too concerned about; the bars are secured internally via the rings; it's the bottom two that I prefer a littler tighter since those secure to the foot. I currently have them at just tight + maybe 1/16-1/8 of a turn more.
I also have suspicions about the Mag Pro plate material as well...it seems less durable than the old Bakelite.
I've seen some of your work, you guys know what you're doing ;). Aiala, I say guys and I mean that in a very good way...you know what I mean ;D.
The plates on these reels are extremely tight, some will give you a tough time. Applying pressure at the wrong spot, when removing it from the ring, might help with the cracking.
I just asked my wife to take a pic on how I usually do it, she gave me one of these ::)... ;D.
Remove the 4 screws from the left side plate and hold the reel as I'm showing, maybe it will help :-\
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/005_2.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/005_2.jpg.html)
Holding the handle side tight, I use the side of the spool to help push the plate out, it takes a little bit of force, but will work.
Aiala, I'm not responsible if you crack your nails ;D.
Thanks Sal, for the pics. I've done that as well with mixed success. I currently have NO intentions of removing that left side plate from its ring to minimize risk.
Another option, since I have one spare left, is to convert and install pillar bedding, Ron (noby72) identified, to all four holes of the spare, and use it instead of just the standard factory plate config. Not quite ready to do that just yet.
Quote from: Aiala on February 01, 2015, 05:33:42 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 31, 2015, 09:53:14 PM
I have a couple of dozen of these reels, (yes Aiala, it didn't take me long to jump on them ;D)...
Sal, a couple of dozen?? (http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Surprise/surprised-003.gif)
In any case, I only use screwdrivers, too, but I must say that the Mag Power side plates have always struck me as being a bit more... delicate? brittle?... than the standard Bakelite plates. Be that as it may, mine are all in fighting form now, and henceforth I will endeavor to be super-careful whenever I service them. :)
~A
P.S. Porthos is certainly a "pro", but me?? Uhh.... no. (http://forums.snapstream.com/vb/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Aiala, I lied ::), I thought I had a couple of dozen and only have 17, two are in pieces, still working on them
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/011_4.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/011_4.jpg.html)
and the one that I usually use
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/013_4.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/013_4.jpg.html)
I need to get cranking and get some more ;D...love these reels.
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 01, 2015, 07:10:38 PM
Aiala, I lied ::), I thought I had a couple of dozen and only have 17...
Only 17, hey? Well, that's a relief. For a minute there I thought you were in the grip of an obsession. ::) ;)
~
A~
Good job, looks like your 970 is now better than new!
:o :o :o
If memory serves me correctly, you jumped on the Mag Pro bandwangon, what, less than a year ago?
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 01, 2015, 06:22:40 PM
The plates on these reels are extremely tight, some will give you a tough time. Applying pressure at the wrong spot, when removing it from the ring, might help with the cracking.
I just asked my wife to take a pic on how I usually do it, she gave me one of these ::)... ;D.
Remove the 4 screws from the left side plate and hold the reel as I'm showing, maybe it will help :-\
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/005_2.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/005_2.jpg.html)
Holding the handle side tight, I use the side of the spool to help push the plate out, it takes a little bit of force, but will work.
Aiala, I'm not responsible if you crack your nails ;D.
Sal... thanks for this tip!
Just got my first 970 and couldn't get the left side plate off. Soaked it in hot water and got it to move just an ever so slight crack on a part of the spool. Afraid to push more or... use a blade (shudder).
Searched and found your tip. Put the right side ring and plate back on and ... pop... a clean left plate exit.
It's a tight and complex fit and needs grease for sure.
Thank you!
btw...WHAT A REEL!
Steve
Quote from: swill88 on April 29, 2016, 09:20:04 PM
...WHAT A REEL!
Steve
Yes they are Steve. Did you fish one yet?
Sal
I got into the Power Mag 970's and 980's last spring. The advice from Sal and Aiala and others has been invaluable. I keep my eye out on the auction site for dirty, broken ones that I can get cheap, and it looks like Sal is buying all the others ;). I have several with broken plates, and even one where a previous user has filled in the magnet receptacle with epoxy. I'm encouraged by Porthos' repair work and will try similar repairs. So far I have used the 970 for surf casting and really like the smoothness and control, not to mention the power for cranking in gator bluefish (no stripers yet). Heck, why not use it for tuna or cod as well?
Being accustomed to the quick-change spools on Squidders and Jigmasters, I would like to do something similar with my Power Mags. The spools are cheaper than Squidder and Jigmaster aluminum spools, though more difficult to find. How can I find some thumb-screws to replace the four screws holding the left-side plate, so that I can disassemble the plate by hand? Can someone tell me the diameter and thread spec of those? Probably the plate will need reinforcment, but that will come later.
An interesting Idea...how many spool configs do you plan on having? The 970 was originally 400/20...I've used it up to 40lb, so if this was my project, it would be possibly be spools for 15, 20, 25, 30, and 40.
Unclear if your design will have the thumb screws such that they will not fall loose once the plate can be removed (kinda like how the take apart thumb screw works on the Jigmasters and Squidmasters). A bunch loose thumb screws is something I'd prefer not to deal with on a rolling deck or in the surf.
I'd highly recommend the pillar bedding technique to avoid accidentally cracking the plate with the thumb screws. (My 970 is currently mothballed until I can do this for all the screws.) The plate lip will need to be sanded down just enough so that it will easily come off the ring though you may have account for expansion when fishing in hotter temperatures--unknown if this will make the plate too loose and possibly spool bearing alignment for the coldest winter temps you are willing to fish.
If you are only going to have two or three spools (say 20, 25, 30), perhaps an easier alternative is to just have three 970's statically configured. Sal has enough 970's to do this for whole 15-40 range...nothing wrong with increasing your working 970 inventory like Sal has though you may want to coordinate efforts on eBay so that you guys are NOT bidding against each other.
No need to coordinate Wai, I'm all set on those. :)
Porthos, thanks for your interest. Thinking I could use the 970 in these configurations:
- 20 lb test mono for surf casting
- 30 lb test for surf casting/jetty/party boat with more weight or for bigger fish
- Heavy braid to use with a top shot of heavy mono for bridge/pier fishing & winching, or deeper ocean party boat fishing
- Probably there are other uses...
Really, the "quick change" idea is a luxury, because I could just change spools at home with a screwdriver if needed. Agreed, I will need the pillaring sooner or later, and would like to upgrade to a stainless sleeve and carbon drags also. Having several 970 reels is not appealing to me because I would need to repeat the upgrades. I live in a small house with plenty of small children around, and need to keep the scale of my equipment collection to match my situation.
Quote from: Decker on October 19, 2016, 04:45:07 PM
...it looks like Sal is buying all the others ;)
A-yuh, been going on for as long as I've been here. :D
~
A~
Functionally, the line classes you are looking to have do NOT require the SS gear sleeve; the brass ones will handle 20+ pounds of drag. Same with the drag stack. 20+ lbs drag supports a 60 lb setup with 1/3 or 80 lb setup with 1/4. Neither is suitable for the 970 IMHO due to the small spool capacity IMHO. 40lb max is my comfort level.
New HT100's with a Delrin undergear and on top of the top metal washer are a given.
The one MUST HAVE is a power handle.
Quote from: Porthos on October 20, 2016, 07:20:08 PM
Functionally, the line classes you are looking to have do NOT require the SS gear sleeve; the brass ones will handle 20+ pounds of drag. Same with the drag stack. 20+ lbs drag supports a 60 lb setup with 1/3 or 80 lb setup with 1/4. Neither is suitable for the 970 IMHO due to the small spool capacity IMHO. 40lb max is my comfort level.
New HT100's with a Delrin undergear and on top of the top metal washer are a given.
The one MUST HAVE is a power handle.
Thanks. I'm a newbie with reel upgrades. Could you explain the "Delrin undergear?"
I'm kind of surprised that you suggested a power handle before the SS sleeve, because it seems like most of the guys on this forum are upgrading the sleeves of their reels.
I have always found balanced handles to be too short, requiring a lot more turning, and the 970's is no exception. Hence the Penn 24-349H on my 970:
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m153/Amadeus_Surf/DSCF0962_zps12942716.jpg)
Sal is the pioneering proponent of delrin washers:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=11443.0
The traditional undergear HT-100/carbontex washer between the main gear and the gear sleeve was the first to be swapped for additional smoothness. Sal then advocated one on top as stated in his post above.
As Alan has stated in many posts, only if you plan to exceed the max drag that the stock brass gear sleeve can support do you NEED to upgrade to a stainless sleeve. If you just WANT to, that's a different matter entirely...
Quote from: Decker on October 20, 2016, 07:41:02 PM
...it seems like most of the guys on this forum are upgrading the sleeves of their reels.
That's because they don't want to get spooled if they happen to snag a fast-attack submarine. ;) :D ;D
~
A~
The 970, 980 and 990 are way underrated, all you need to do is look at some of the parts. These tiny reels have a larger bridge than the 113H, the tiny spool has a shaft as large as the 114H.
I'm not quite sure why the plate fails on some, these plates are actually reinforced with fiberglass.
There is a possibility the screws are set in too tight. :-\ I just serviced a Fathom for someone, the screws were crazy tight.
That's another reel you don't want to over-tighten the plate screws.
Decker, not to disagree with Wai ( Porthos) I would go ahead and get the stainless steel sleeve, I would get one on any reel that produces 15+lbs of drag.
Be cautious choosing a custom handle, I found out a longer handle is not a good thing.
Half of an inch longer than stock is all I would go.
When you get comfortable try this upgrade on that reel, it's one of the best you could do:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10273.msg97129#msg97129
Sal
Quote from: Porthos on February 22, 2014, 09:29:59 PM
The damage began as a crack at the hole and expanded away outward—almost like opening a pair of double doors. I could put the pieces back in reverse order for an exact fit, but this would be tight with little space for the adhesive. So, exact fit = thin layer of epoxy-->less strength?
Or...I could do a thicker application of epoxy and just press the broken pieces STRAIGHT against the plate for a "close-enough" fit. This would use the fragments to just re-establish the inner hole position and lip but leave a greater gap between them and the plate that the epoxy would structurally fill. A thicker layer of epoxy-->greater strength?
Epoxies have failure rates that have been well studied and well documented. Adhesive failures occur when the epoxy and the material it is applied to do not adhere together well. Cohesive failures occur when the epoxy material itself fails. Most failures are adhesive failures. The thickness of the epoxy layer has little to do with any of this, it's about that microlayer at the interface of the two materials, and how well they "stick together".
Sid
You guys are great!
For the power handle, I agree with Sal that going much longer (radius) is uncomfortable. For my 970, I bought a used Penn 24-40 (340GT) that feels perfect and is counterbalanced. Seems sufficient for bass and blues, but I can see how Porthos would prefer something beefier for blue-fin. I also have an Accurate "hot-dog" power handle with 3 holes, that feels too big on the shortest setting, in a surf casting situation.
I'll eventually go with the SS sleeve because the installed brass one already has quite a bit of play, and I hear the SS ones also have a tighter fit to the handle. Sal's double-dogging looks great, though it may overkill for me. Great tutorial! I hadn't seen that one yet.
Sid, thanks for the bit about epoxy strength. Beyond roughing the surface and cleaning it, it there any better way of priming those plates for epoxy? Are there any other adhesives that would weld the plates and be more effective than epoxy?