Reel Repair by Alan Tani

 Don`t sell the 270 short , it is a beast of a reel .  Fred can get you the parts you need .  There is 5 different spools that fit the 270 with different drag arrangements .   The ru pacific is a nice fun reel also ,not a bull dog  .

I use a cordless drill to strip out old line and since I have many extra spool shaft I use correct shaft for each spool to wind up line

Quote from: Maxed Out on May 20, 2024, 03:26:09 AMI use my electric downriggers. First I put the line onto one downrigger, then under tension, I transfer it to my other downrigger, then adjust the brake so I can hand crank it off the downrigger under tension and onto my reel

  Yes ,for hand winding reel to reel works .      I have mounted reels on closet dowels for line transfer .    I like your line dryer , it is well used going by the bow in the dowel rods .  I have a few myself .

Last 2 weeks I bought 2 weird reels from Ebay ,both of them for $20 One is the Dam 270 that I see on ebay all the time fairly low price but never need that as I have many big reel , another one is R U pacific that I never see before .
Clean the old grease out ,both of them full of black grease that often see on old Dam Quick .The R U Pacific fairly good condition just a bend handle and easy to straight it up . The Dam Quick have many problem and broken parts ,it seem using in salt water for long time , bearings is rusty and shot broken screws and missing 1 little bushing on slider . The 270 built exact like 265 micro lite just anti reverse use pin to lock in drive gear not a dog
I'm decided not to fix the 270 up only use for parts after look at the spool of this reel . for a big heavy reel the drag even smaller than 220

For removing old line from my reel, I use a antique 1930's large line dryer contraption. There's a 113hlw in the pic to show the size of this old beast

   Clearly I am doing something wrong .    

 I use my electric downriggers. First I put the line onto one downrigger, then under tension, I transfer it to my other downrigger, then adjust the brake so I can hand crank it off the downrigger under tension and onto my reel

Quote from: boon on May 20, 2024, 02:55:49 AMThat's a novel solution. I'd be a little worried about abrading the line, hmmm. I'd prefer to create drag without using friction on the line itself.

There are in-line drag solutions for spooling that seem like a good idea.

I would like to hear more about ,in-line drag solutions for spooling that seem like a good idea.
  I will ask , what the difference when the line goes through the tip top and the guides as far as abrading the line under drag .  Real question , just sharing ideas . 

That's a novel solution. I'd be a little worried about abrading the line, hmmm. I'd prefer to create drag without using friction on the line itself.

There are in-line drag solutions for spooling that seem like a good idea.

Quotewhen I push/pull the handle in and out, it does feel like it has an inordinate amount of play back and forth.

If the gear stud (handle shaft) has too much back and forth play, it can allow the shift arm to slide under the ratchet. This seems to be aligned with the symptoms.  Also, the shaft is relying on the clutch bearing to support the far end of the shaft, which is a design no-no.  When winding under load, you could be getting the shaft lifting out/ and/or angling out of alignment, both of which will allow the shift arm pin to get under the ratchet.  If you clean the grease of the pinion and spool spindle where they meet, you should see some signs of wear from the two not fully engaging. Pinion slots look worn to me, but it may just be the grease.  Hard to tell from the photo.

There are other possibilities in the same neighborhood. Maybe check out the gear stud bushing for wear, and also look for the cause of the shaft shifting...

On post 22 of Alan's thread on this reel, somebody posted a photo of the shift arm pin getting under the ratchet.  Don't think it was resolved in the thread.

-J