I have been using a small container with kerosene and a small brush to wash parts and then compressed air to dry them.
Wondering how others approach the task?
I use mineral spirits also known as paint thinner in the Depot & Lowes. If it is not to heavily loaded with thick crud I use Simple Green and also as a final wash. Rudy
I used to use kerosene a couple of decades ago — with a professional reservoir unit — and that works fine.
Problem is, kerosene is oily — and it is also difficult get rid of the stench — even with gloves and protection.
At the risk of cautioning individuals who may not know about safety, spontaneous combustion of rags, and flammability — I use Lacquer Thinner on all aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, and steel parts.
On painted parts — Simple Green cut 50/50 with water — and lightly, not too long!
On plastic parts — Dawn HD dish soap.
Also, an ultrasonic cleaner is used to speed things up and to do a more complete job in every tiny crevice.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on June 01, 2021, 03:20:10 PM
I used to use kerosene a couple of decades ago — with a professional reservoir unit — and that works fine.
Problem is, kerosene is oily — and it is also difficult get rid of the stench — even with gloves and protection.
At the risk of cautioning individuals who may not know about safety, spontaneous combustion of rags, and flammability — I use Lacquer Thinner on all aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, and steel parts.
On painted parts — Simple Green cut 50/50 with water — and lightly, not too long!
On plastic parts — Dawn HD dish soap.
Also, an ultrasonic cleaner is used to speed things up and to do a more complete job in every tiny crevice.
Best, Fred
The nice thing about lacquer thinner and acetone rags are you can hang them outside for a half an hour and everything evaporates, which is not the case for paint thinner/mineral spirits rags. They take a lot longer to clear out, and
don't put them in a pile!
acetone final rinse for metal parts -- no residue, no forced air, no waiting... not the greatest thing to inhale,
but I never go to the nail salon -- 'bout same fume exposure as few personal reels, I figure
For batch metal parts of similar materials — like a pound, or so — of cleaned DAM Quick or Penn parts — I also use a Hornady Shell Casing Vibrator/Tumbler. Just pour in a pound of cleaned parts, a little media polish — and let it work for a couple of hours. Parts come out nearly new — with little or no work.
Works as well on reel parts as it does on cartridge casings.
When working on reels, I don't take the time to put used parts back into the bins. I just toss them in Mason jars labeled by brand.
So every 3 months, or so — I do a batch cleaning of a couple of pounds — then drop them back in the numbered bins.
Screws, gears, levers, trips, metal drag discs, bails, spool shafts, etc..
Just sit back and enjoy a cup of coffee while they are being shined up.
Best, Fred
A few parts( such as a metal spool) for saltwater reels get a vinegar bath to stop the corrosion. A few other parts may get a mineral spirits bath and scrub for old grease. Everything else gets a wipe down or wire brush treatment.
This is for one reel only. I like to avoid solvents as much as possible.
Thank you guys for the input, give me some great ideas to investigate.
I am thinking of an aerated kerosene bath to dislodge all the heavy stuff
then into an aerated detergent (Simple Green) for the final clean.
May invest in an ultrasonic cleaner down the track when I can justify it.
Paint thinners first, I've never found it to be harmful to any parts then Acetone if still needed. Toothbrush and sometimes air from compressor.