Hello,
I fished a DQ 330 for years in the early 70's to mid 80's. Then I got caught up in the "buy new reels every two or three years" cycle until about seven years ago, when I started buying and fishing vintage Penn Spinfishers. I recently bought a yard sale DQ 330N and rediscovered the quality and beauty of these reels. I've decided to sell all my Penns and put together a stable of DQ reels. I'm a fisherman first and foremost, and I can't afford to be a collector. So the Penns must go to finance my new obsession. I want to buy cheap and fully restore (that's half the fun) at least four each of all five sizes.
My question is this: What series of DQ reels should I be looking at? I fish for everything from 8 inch stocked rainbows to 50 pound king salmon. A few of the larger reels would need to be set up and maintained for saltwater use. Is there any advantage of the N series over the earlier reels? Or should I be looking at some of the later reels? Or a mix of styles? These would be used hard but maintained well. No shelf queens need apply.
All opinions are welcome, even if you're going to chastise me for choosing the DQ's over the Penns. https://alantani.com/smileys/default/cheesy.gif
Best Regards, Ron
It is personal choice between the Penn Spinfishers and the DAM Quicks, Ron...In my opinion.
Any of the DQ's are substantial, capable, and tough reels —-
There are about 50 that I consider worthwhile —- ranging from small Microlites (5) —- to (7) of the largest ones.
Plus another 38 in between these two ranges.
This would include the reels from the 50's & 60's —- up through the late 80's
Early series —- 265, 270, 280, 285
Finessa series —- 110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, 550
"N" Series —- 110N, 220N, 330N, 331N, 440N, 441N, 550N
'00 Champion series —- 1000, 1400, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000
'01 Champion series —- 1001, 1401, 2001, 3001, 4001, 5001
'02 Series —- 1001, 1202, 2002, 3002, 4001, 5001
All of these are excellent reels with steel worm drives, bronze mains, oversized main bearing, aircraft-grade aluminum, plus other exceptional parts and engineering.
None will let you down —- and can be handed down to your kids after a lifetime of you fishing them.
I have worked on these as a speciality for over 40 years —- and have the largest inventory of organized parts in the world.
Generally have 500-600 complete DQ's in stock, plus around
300,000 to 400,000 organized parts.
However, if you also have Penn Spinfishers in the old Greenies or the newer Spinfisher SS's —- they are fantastic and strong reels also.
So maybe —- take a look at what you need to fill holes in your arsenal —- add a few DQ's —- but keep some of the Penn's.
Then decide which you want to keep for your personal equipment.
It really depends on what type of fishing you intend to do.
Then I could give you a little better specific model advice.
Both of these brands are excellent.
Best, Fred
I am a novice on DQs,but do have a 265(Microlite),110N(Fred),220,280 Finessa(Fred Restored,Ted gave me)and a 270 super.I have only fished with the 1st 3 reels listed.My choice would be the 265 or a PENN 716 Greenie(Fred) for the Trout.The 270 Super should handle the Salmon or "JAWS"...
I have a number of the DQ reels but in my opinion they are just too slow and clunky. Just like the Penn 704/706.
Quote from: handi2 on November 14, 2022, 10:49:02 PMI have a number of the DQ reels but in my opinion they are just too slow and clunky. Just like the Penn 704/706.
Hi Keith —-
Glad to buy all of your old, clunky, slow, DAM Quicks!
Best Always, Fred
akroper, Welcome to the site...
I have to agree with Fred, the early Penn Spinfishers and DQs are pretty much a toss up. I have DQ 110, 330 (2) and a recently acquired 550, and a Penn 704 Greenie in my collection of fishers. No shelfies here either. I've not fished the 550 yet, but the 704 has given me years of dependable surf duty, as it did the friend who gave it to me. Great guy! The simplicity, ruggedness, and quality of these reels can't be matched today, even at the high end top dollar reels with "too many moving parts", IMHO.
Again, welcome aboard the site with the most knowledge and friendliest members willing to share it.
Kal
I know this is an old thread, but just curious, as a much newer fisherman, how durable are the line rollers of the DAM 270 and 280s? Does the paint falling off the spool affect casting distance? AFAIK the Finessa 110-550 series and above have tungsten carbite line rollers but what about their predecessors?
Would love to have one of these, but these factors do make me reconsider. Also, I'm sort of clumsy, and the anti reverse acts on the main gear so I fear that I will damage it...If this is not a big problem, most of the fish where I live are relatively small under 10kg (22lb), so which model should I get? Probably gonna use mono.
The AR system is one of the toughest ever used in any spinning reel.
You will never wear out the main or pinion worm gear in a lifetime of trying. The crank axle is steel, very thick, and the main gear is phosphor cut bronze.
When we return home tomorrow, I will check out the line guides for you —- materials and interchangeability.
We are camping up in the higher Sierras —- but there is a cell tower straight across the lake that we are 1200' above. 4 bars! Little bit of snow at our elevation. Camper is nice and cozy. Had BBQ Rib-Eye last night.
Drinking Starbucks right now. Pretty spoiled!
Best, Fred
All reels to my knowledge, have at least one weak thing about 'em. Might be as benign as the finish(benign to me, anyway). I think the same way about reel finishes as I do a car's; get some scrapes on it, then I don't godda worry about pristine preservation anymore, just cover it with something protective and continue to use it without having to be so careful.
I had a nice Quick 110, tough little trout reel. I liked to drink beer while fishing, way back then. Leaned it on my trunk and forgot about it. Backed right over it. Heartbreaking, best reel I ever had to date(at that time), but was surprised at how little damage it had. Cracked the gear-box and ruined the handle. But, the week before, I dropped my Daiwa Silver series spincaster and it hit a rock and smashed the AR system to smithereens. Couldn't repair it. Plastic crap and cheap metal...
Quote from: foakes on November 17, 2022, 04:20:50 PMThe AR system is one of the toughest ever used in any spinning reel.
You will never wear out the main or pinion worm gear in a lifetime of trying. The crank axle is steel, very thick, and the main gear is phosphor cut bronze.
When we return home tomorrow, I will check out the line guides for you —- materials and interchangeability.
We are camping up in the higher Sierras —- but there is a cell tower straight across the lake that we are 1200' above. 4 bars! Little bit of snow at our elevation. Camper is nice and cozy. Had BBQ Rib-Eye last night.
Drinking Starbucks right now. Pretty spoiled!
Best, Fred
Fred, how does it work? The AR and the gear is one unit as far as I can tell, but I never see it in disassembly
Also, do you ship internationally if I get a part? Just in case something's done for
We are still camping, back mid-day, West Coast time, it is 6:54 AM, Friday morning currently.
Will post some pics when we return later today.
We live in the Sierras —- and are only a couple of hours from home.
Will ship anywhere —- unless it is a giant hassle.
You may or may not need any parts if the reels are cleaned completely, all parts burnished & polished, properly lubricated, and tuned for final adjustment.
These reels are inexpensive to purchase —- as well as long lasting.
The only issues will arise when a reel has been used in saltwater —- not serviced after a season —- and parts are corroded. But it is all fixable.
Best, Fred
IMO, it'd be pretty hard to do better than to couple a 331 or 330 with a homemade rod for smallmouth and walleye fishing on the St. Lawrence River. But maybe I'm prejudiced, as I've been using a 331 on the river for about 50 years... ;D
IMG_1295.JPGIMG_0323.JPG
Sorry about that. I only meant for one copy of each photo, and the preview only showed one of each, but somehow I see I wound up posting two. Oh, well. They ARE nice fish...
Twice as nice when you double post!
Quote from: foakes on November 18, 2022, 03:00:00 PMThe only issues will arise when a reel has been used in saltwater —- not serviced after a season —- and parts are corroded. But it is all fixable.
Best, Fred
Crap. I mainly fish from saltwater piers. Are there specific models that can handle corrosion/saltwater better than others? And for the ones that don't fare so well, how often do you want to maintain them?
Any DQ can handle salt water.
Like with any reel used for the sea —- install extra Marine grease. On any intrusion points —- then if used weekly, break down the reel partway and regrease a couple of times a year.
Upon inspection, make sure that the SW has not mixed with the grease. If it has —- break down and clean the reel completely —- then re-grease and re-oil with Marine grease like Yamaha, Penn, Superlube, or Cal's.
Rinsing in fresh water (just let the water run gently over the reel, no forceful spraying).
Then spray with a light application of WD40. This displaces the water with no harm to the reel —- and protects it.
Best, Fred
Thanks so much for the info Fred. Just curious, do you notice less failures with the Finessa "N" series reels compared to the basic Finessas? I once asked Alan Hawk about vintage reels worth fishing some time ago, and he recommended the 110N-550N over the rest because it had an AR acting on the pinion.
Also, can the bails fold down on these reels? I swear they could. What's a good price to pay for them?
I personally like the AR on the older models by the crank seems more durable and if your fishing live bait speed shouldn't be an issue?Also,reel magic is good stuff ,I have seen it really help finicky line.
Just curious, do you notice less failures with the Finessa "N" series reels compared to the basic Finessas? I once asked Alan Hawk about vintage reels worth fishing some time ago, and he recommended the 110N-550N over the rest because it had an AR acting on the pinion.
I have a tremendous amount of admiration and respect for Alan Hawk —- but you may have misunderstood him. The "N" series of reels has a anti-reverse system that works on the lower inside edge of the rotor. There is a spring-loaded dog that interacts with stop-notches on the inner rotor.
The '00, '01, and '02 Championship later series has a A/R that acts on the front of the worm-pinion.
On the 110 - 550 models, and the 270, 280, & 285 —- the A/R interacts with the backside of the main gear. The spring-loaded dog drops into any one of eight holes set at 45 degrees apart on the main phospher-cut bronze gear. Hence the clicking sound when the A/R is active.
I suppose the earlier series would be a little stronger compared to the "N" series —- but the failure rate on the A/R's on either of these reels is close to zero. So it is personal preference, IMO..
Also, can the bails fold down on these reels? Most of them do, yes.
I swear they could. What's a good price to pay for them?
They are all over the Board, price wise. But as a rule, they are under-valued compared to other reels. EBay is a good indicator. Take the last (10) "SOLD" models that you are interested in — toss out the highest number, toss out the lowest number —- then average the remaining eight. That is a decent indicator —- providing condition is mostly equal.
I may have 50 of each model, or only 5 of some of the more popular models.
The benchmark I go by —-
You can't pay too much for a pristine DQ —- or too little for a rough one.
Best, Fred
:fish
Right, I misunderstood then. Thanks Fred. Was expecting an anti reverse on the older Finessas a la Penn 704
Well that didn`t take long , what a sweet deal. Went dirt cheap.
Dumb question ,the small handles are 280,large are 285 Finessas?
Quote from: oldmanjoe on November 19, 2022, 03:29:30 PMWell that did take long , what a sweet deal. Went dirt cheap.
Dude, I wanted to buy that after my exams next week!
(Was 85 for the bunch iirc)
:'(
Quote from: Barishi on November 19, 2022, 03:50:45 PMQuote from: oldmanjoe on November 19, 2022, 03:29:30 PMWell that did take long , what a sweet deal. Went dirt cheap.
Dude, I wanted to buy that after my exams next week!
:'(
Well we both Failed to pull the trigger !!! Hope you do better on your exams
Quote from: oldmanjoe on November 19, 2022, 03:56:00 PMQuote from: Barishi on November 19, 2022, 03:50:45 PMQuote from: oldmanjoe on November 19, 2022, 03:29:30 PMWell that did take long , what a sweet deal. Went dirt cheap.
Dude, I wanted to buy that after my exams next week!
:'(
Well we both Failed to pull the trigger !!! Hope you do better on your exams
Thanks. Checked with the guy, he said he's putting a new listing later. Fingers crossed.
I'm pretty sure I know the guy that bought that group. :D
Quote from: Midway Tommy on November 19, 2022, 05:49:39 PMI'm pretty sure I know the guy that bought that group. :D
>:D Pretty sure , or know for sure . :fish Good for you ..
Pretty sure, i tweren't moi. ;)
Quote from: Barishi on November 19, 2022, 09:02:29 AMThanks so much for the info Fred. Just curious, do you notice less failures with the Finessa "N" series reels compared to the basic Finessas? I once asked Alan Hawk about vintage reels worth fishing some time ago, and he recommended the 110N-550N over the rest because it had an AR acting on the pinion.
Also, can the bails fold down on these reels? I swear they could. What's a good price to pay for them?
I love the N series precisely because the AR is on the rotor. There are several reasons for this.
1. The main drive is not exposed to shocks because the braking is before the main drive.
2. AR on the rotor has a larger number of stop positions, so the movement of the rotor back is shorter than on other models.
3. Braking takes place around the circumference of the rotor and much less force is needed to stop the rotor compared to the AR which is on the pinion.
The disadvantage is that the rotor is made of aluminum.
Quote from: handi2 on November 14, 2022, 10:49:02 PMI have a number of the DQ reels but in my opinion they are just too slow and clunky. Just like the Penn 704/706.
I have to retract my statement on the smaller DQ reels. I found a sweet 300 that is much tighter and a higher gear ratio than the bigger ones.
I would fish this one
My favorite dock snook combo is dam quick 270 with harnell rod. Biggest snook on combo was 35 inches long.
That 270 Super reel, coupled with that Harnell rod, and appropriate sized fresh line —- will handle most anything large or very large.
The weakest link will be your hooks getting straightened out.
Best, Fred
Going back to this thread, may I ask what DAM Quick reel can pull 4-6 oz at a deep water pier? I asked Alan Hawk if the 440N or 280 could do it, he said that it was way too much for these reels. This is the main kind of fishing I do, and I already have multipliers for this work. I just got a Finessa to try out before moving forwards, so I'm thinkung about what I can do.
Also about the N series DAMs, does that one side plate screw make the reels weaker than their predecessors?
A 270 Super or a 5001 should handle the weight.
Drag is much better on a 5001.
The sideplate on an "N" series also has a tab at the front of the sideplate that holds the plate in place.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on April 09, 2023, 06:43:57 AMA 270 Super or a 5001 should handle the weight.
Drag is much better on a 5001.
The sideplate on an "N" series also has a tab at the front of the sideplate that holds the plate in place.
Best, Fred
Why not the 550/550N? If they had the 270 Super spool.
Just curious Fred, why do people say the Ns were not as good as their predecessors? These were the first DAM reels I was recommended to use.
The "N's" are very fine reels —-
Smooth operation, simple and effective.
But when throwing heavy baits, a metal spool (as you mentioned) is better.
However, in these conditions, there is more expected of these reels —- so it isn't just the metal spools.
It is the larger drag discs in a 5001 —- top and under the spool. Plus, when throwing heavy baits for large fish —- an A/R system that stops the drive train at the gears instead of the outer edge of the aluminum rotor is preferable, IMO.
Lots of anglers use braid in these conditions.
On the 270, the drag stack can be beefed up and the spools switched out to the more modern 270 version with multiple discs.
There are other considerations and many details.
But either a 5001 (first choice) or a 270 Super will handle the iron you are going to throw —- provided the reel is set up properly.
Other Vintage choices would be a Penn 706, or 704. Either Z's or greenies.
After DQ used the aluminum rotor A/R system in the "N" series reels —- they switched back to a dead-solid system in (14) of the 16 reels in the (3) Championship Series of reels.
This A/R system utilizes the SS Worm-Pinion to stop the rotor from slipping when using heavy iron against strong fish, in salt conditions.
If you are asking what I would use in the conditions you describe —- it would be the big DQ 5001 or a large Penn 706, 706Z, or the 704/704Z.
One other consideration would be the rarer 5001 —- in a lower speed gear ratio of 1:2.5 —- compared to the typical 5001 at 1:4.0. But for tossing iron, the slower speed while easier to pull in the heavy plug and a large fish —- may be too slow for these types of conditions.
Alan Hawke is as always, absolutely correct in his advice to you on the smaller DQ reels.
The reason many manufacturers have so many different sized reels available in a certain series —- is so the angler can more closely as well as effectively match the reel to the conditions.
Best, Fred
Thanks Fred. I no longer doubt that the N series was any less rigid than the original Finessa series because I just got a 440N for display and the sideplate refuses to come off. Do you have any tips on how to get it off?
On an unrelated note, do the P series Quicks have plastic spools?
Quote from: Barishi on April 10, 2023, 04:58:19 AMThanks Fred. I no longer doubt that the N series was any less rigid than the original Finessa series because I just got a 440N for display and the sideplate refuses to come off. Do you have any tips on how to get it off?
On an unrelated note, do the P series Quicks have plastic spools?
After removing the sideplate screw, just use an old pocket knife in the seam on the underside.
Tap it with a small hammer or just a screwdriver handle —- and it will come apart easily.
This generally means that the reel has never been cracked open since leaving the factory in Germany. You will find old, stiff brown grease in there.
Clean it all out and replace with modern synthetic grease and synthetic oil.
The "P" series have non-skirted graphite spools that also have the adjustable line-lay feature.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on April 10, 2023, 05:33:47 AMQuote from: Barishi on April 10, 2023, 04:58:19 AMThanks Fred. I no longer doubt that the N series was any less rigid than the original Finessa series because I just got a 440N for display and the sideplate refuses to come off. Do you have any tips on how to get it off?
On an unrelated note, do the P series Quicks have plastic spools?
After removing the sideplate screw, just use an old pocket knife in the seam on the underside.
Tap it with a small hammer or just a screwdriver handle —- and it will come apart easily.
This generally means that the reel has never been cracked open since leaving the factory in Germany. You will find old, stiff brown grease in there.
Clean it all out and replace with modern synthetic grease and synthetic oil.
The "P" series have non-skirted graphite spools that also have the adjustable line-lay feature.
Best, Fred
Hi Fred, your advice worked like a charm. One thing about this reel is that the bail arm is at an awkward angle to the spool. Is that an issue? If it has to do with the bail spring, I have a spare.
I don't have any proper tools to refurbish this reel. Is it ok if I use aluminium foil and steel polish to clean out some of the parts?
Looks right from here —- compared to a couple of others I checked out of the bins.
As to cleaning —-
Anything you do will be better —- but with old factory grease, the old grease needs to be removed and replaced with new grease and oiled to accomplish proper performance.
Also, after soaking the internals in a solvent for awhile —-
It is important to also clean out the brass crank and worm bushings with a smaller drill bit covered in "0000" steel wool. Also the same with the inside of the steel worm pinion.
Then finally use some of the "0000" steel wool on the spool shaft.
Then, after a complete cleaning and proper lubrication with synthetic grease and syn oil —- the smoothness and performance will be amazing.
Remember also —- a small drop or two of oil at the exact right spot is 10 times more effective than a lot of oil everywhere.
As for the tools you decide to use —- I can't condone or comment on dozens of techniques to service reels. I can only advise what I do that is quick, effective, and that promotes top performance going forward.
Best, Fred
Fred I'm intrigued by this business of a drill bit with steel wool. for the inside working surface of a pinion gear I'm quite fond of using either buffing compound, polishing compound, or chrome polish, on a q-tip in.a drill chuck. depending on the condition of the inside face before I start.
I guess my question is do you consider the steel wool technique more or less aggressive than the above? Though I suppose that depends on which wool you use.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on April 10, 2023, 06:41:19 PMFred I'm intrigued by this business of a drill bit with steel wool. for the inside working surface of a pinion gear I'm quite fond of using either buffing compound, polishing compound, or chrome polish, on a q-tip in.a drill chuck. depending on the condition of the inside face before I start.
I guess my question is do you consider the steel wool technique more or less aggressive than the above? Though I suppose that depends on which wool you use.
It has worked for me on thousands of reels.
The possible issue with using a rubbing compound is —-
While effective initially —- the compound also fills the microscopic unseen scratches in a reel part. Then, when lubrication is applied such as synthetic oil —- it "activates" the RC microscopic residue —- and could cause a friction slowdown in the reel operation.
I just burnish the sleeves, bushings, and innards of interior friction areas for maybe a minute until they become warm. Blow out any residue, rinse and dry —- then assemble and lube with syn oil.
Grease goes on the gears and larger friction points, oil goes on crank axles, spool shafts, bushings, etc.
The reel will operate like oil on glass.
And it doesn't take any time at all.
I keep various sizes of drill bits with "0000" steel wool —- and a drill already at hand and chucked up, ready to go.
The key to a smooth reel is getting any metal tarnish, rust, and crud off of any friction surface —- so it operates perfectly. Particularly all of the places that you cannot see into —- or that no one else will either. But, a sluggish, unsmooth operation is felt by anyone.
I give it the hearing test. I clean parts until one cannot hear them interact anymore —- frictionless and smooth. Actually better than new.
The littlest detail things make the big things work effortlessly.
Best, Fred
0000 steel wool is actually pretty mild as far as buffing/polishing processes go, I've always been advised, though, to be mindful of the fine metal dust created by using steel wool. Whenever I use it vigorously I make sure I rinse the part with a solvent and then blow it off with compressed air.
If it comes to it I'll probably use aluminium foil wrapped around a q tip or something, I don't have a drill or steel wool :P
So, I've recieved my Finessa and 440N today and I took both apart to service. I only got as far as the snap ring because I realised that I don't own snap ring pliers. The ball bearing was obviously spinning nicely so I decided to add some oil and call it a day.
I also added grease to the pinion's opening and rotor nut. I'm preparing the Finessa for a friend to fish while the 440N is mainly for collection. While both are functionally great, I have a few problems I was hoping people on this site know how to solve.
1. The line rollers on both aren't spinning. I've oiled them and they still don't spin under finger pressure.
2. The Finessa feels like the spool is hitting the rotor. Not too sure what to do here.
3. The black tab at the bail wire has fallen off. Is this a big problem? Its that round black thing that holds the bail wire opposite to the line roller.
4. Is there supposed to be a rubber ring at the bail release tab? I'm sure the 440N doesnt look like it needs it, but I'm not sure about the Finessa.
5. How do you tell when your Finessa was built? My 440N is a 1975 model according to the box. Mine has brown inner sideplates.
Quote from: Barishi on April 18, 2023, 09:01:30 AMSo, I've recieved my Finessa and 440N today and I took both apart to service. I only got as far as the snap ring because I realised that I don't own snap ring pliers. The ball bearing was obviously spinning nicely so I decided to add some oil and call it a day.
I also added grease to the pinion's opening and rotor nut. I'm preparing the Finessa for a friend to fish while the 440N is mainly for collection. While both are functionally great, I have a few problems I was hoping people on this site know how to solve.
1. The line rollers on both aren't spinning. I've oiled them and they still don't spin under finger pressure. The line guides do not spin —- they are made of Tungsten-Carbide.
2. The Finessa feels like the spool is hitting the rotor. Not too sure what to do here. Could be a bent spool, bent rotor, bent spool shaft,something under the spool contacting the spool on the lowest travel, or 2 or 3 other things.
3. The black tab at the bail wire has fallen off. Is this a big problem? It's that round black thing that holds the bail wire opposite to the line roller. It is cosmetic —- not functional.
4. Is there supposed to be a rubber ring at the bail release tab? I'm sure the 440N doesnt look like it needs it, but I'm not sure about the Finessa. On 280 & 285 Finessas —- there is a rubber bumper to soften the snap-back bail action.
5. How do you tell when your Finessa was built? My 440N is a 1975 model according to the box. Mine has brown inner sideplates. Hold the reel a little closer to your computer so we can all see it better. There are 4 versions of Finessa 280-285's. Each has tells that will help ID the approximate year. '55 to '63.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on April 18, 2023, 02:58:31 PMQuote from: Barishi on April 18, 2023, 09:01:30 AMSo, I've recieved my Finessa and 440N today and I took both apart to service. I only got as far as the snap ring because I realised that I don't own snap ring pliers. The ball bearing was obviously spinning nicely so I decided to add some oil and call it a day.
I also added grease to the pinion's opening and rotor nut. I'm preparing the Finessa for a friend to fish while the 440N is mainly for collection. While both are functionally great, I have a few problems I was hoping people on this site know how to solve.
1. The line rollers on both aren't spinning. I've oiled them and they still don't spin under finger pressure. The line guides do not spin —- they are made of Tungsten-Carbide.
2. The Finessa feels like the spool is hitting the rotor. Not too sure what to do here. Could be a bent spool, bent rotor, bent spool shaft,something under the spool contacting the spool on the lowest travel, or 2 or 3 other things.
3. The black tab at the bail wire has fallen off. Is this a big problem? It's that round black thing that holds the bail wire opposite to the line roller. It is cosmetic —- not functional.
4. Is there supposed to be a rubber ring at the bail release tab? I'm sure the 440N doesnt look like it needs it, but I'm not sure about the Finessa. On 280 & 285 Finessas —- there is a rubber bumper to soften the snap-back bail action.
5. How do you tell when your Finessa was built? My 440N is a 1975 model according to the box. Mine has brown inner sideplates. Hold the reel a little closer to your computer so we can all see it better. There are 4 versions of Finessa 280-285's. Each has tells that will help ID the approximate year. '55 to '63.
Best, Fred
Here are the pictures:
This reel has a push button spool and snap ring holding the bearing down. Read somewhere that the earliest ones didnt have either.
20230418_142721.jpg
20230418_161900.jpg
Wait, when I try putting around a meter or so of line on to test the drag, the non spinning line roller gives what feels like a large drag spike. And Alan Hawk mentioned in his 5001 review that his line roller "spun like the day they were new". Did DAM make a design change with that series? That line roller concerns me.
Also, I think the Finessa spool was hitting the rotor walls initially, but after a bit of fiddling it disappeared.
Is there any way to smoothen the spool lip? The paint's gone in a few places.
I wasn't aware that any of the line rollers on these DAM Quicks spin very easily?
They are generally stationary — at least after usage — but they will spin.
They are made of Tungsten-Carbide. TC on the machinists hardness scale is a 9.5 out of 10. This is right under the hardest materials which are Boron and Diamond.
I wouldn't be concerned about your line rollers not spinning.
A proper cleaning and burnishing of the roller and the roller axle mount would likely help any resistance — or a new line roller. Either is easy to accomplish.
The Finessa is a 285 from 1964.
You can use a flat black Sharpie to touch up and smooth out the paint chips. Or a flat black paint pen.
Best, Fred
He's probably worried about grooves wearing in the line guide. I'm not going to call it a "roller," because the one on my original 331 has never moved that I can remember in the over fifty years that I've owned it. After hundreds (if not thousands if you count round gobies) of fish and many thousands of retrieves, that line guide looks as good today as the day I opened the box on Christmas. No grooves that I can see, though I rteluctantly will admit that my 73-year-old eyes possibly aren't what they were 50 years ago.
Now that I think about it, if it had been rolling all that time, being made of tungsten carbide it would have worn out the shaft that holds it in place and been lost years ago. ;D :fish
TJ
Quote from: TJAndrews on April 18, 2023, 09:33:21 PMHe's probably worried about grooves wearing in the line guide. I'm not going to call it a "roller," because the one on my original 331 has never moved that I can remember in the over fifty years that I've owned it. After hundreds (if not thousands if you count round gobies) of fish and many thousands of retrieves, that line guide looks as good today as the day I opened the box on Christmas. No grooves that I can see, though I rteluctantly will admit that my 73-year-old eyes possibly aren't what they were 50 years ago.
Now that I think about it, if it had been rolling all that time, being made of tungsten carbide it would have worn out the shaft that holds it in place and been lost years ago. ;D :fish
TJ
Exactly right, TJ —-
The "N" series, 110-550 Finessa series, and any of the earlier series DQ's do not have line guides that roll.
If a '00, '01, or '02 series is cleaned and properly oiled —- it will roll.
Best, Fred
Thanks for the input, my worry was that the line roller will not "give" when drag is pulled which results in a super high start up.
The 440N free spins very well and feels super smooth, but the 285 makes a whirring sound and is nowhere near. I doubt its the gears because its not a buzzing feeling. I think the rotor is the issue here as it was really really tight to remove. Any ideas on whats going on and how to remedy this?
Check if it makes the sound with the rotor assembly removed.
This way you can narrow the culprit down to a portion of the reel.
At this point —- possibilities are gears, bearing, something bent or touching where it shouldn't, under spool trip mechanism tweaked, springs, screws, pins, crud, no lubrication, etc., etc...
Just need to examine and narrow it down.
Best, Fred
A Chuck Norris joke comes to mind "How many pushups can Chuck Norris do"? ALL OF THEM!
Hello, I was just given a Quick SC 3, it has Korea embossed on the foot and is a rear drag reel. Is it worth cleaning up?