Started to take the DQ84 apart yesterday evening. Parts cleaned and they all look good. The body although does not... I will repaint it but first need to now what is the best way to remove the old paint. Plastic cover looks great and does not need any attention. I have the possibility to sandblast the metal parts, is that a good thing to do, or is there a better way to remove the old paint?
After that.... powder-coat or just spray-can?
Looking forward to your replies,
Kind regards,
Ed
Ps. Tries to post pics but they are only on my ipad and not online....so I think it is not possible to post them yet.
If you will send me your photos, Ed —
I will post them for you, until you learn how.
In the meantime, we can all see your pics — and offer suggestions that may point you in the proper direction.
The initial obstacle to overcome on these DQ 84's and similar — is the fact that some of the main casing parts are plastic — so depending on which parts you intend to paint — powder coating may not work so well, if plastic.
These reels are two-tone — so depending on the amount of paint missing — you may be OK.
The second issue is that the paint is not a "wrinkle paint" — it is a glossy enamel such as on a Cardinal or Mitchell — not rough.
If blasting it — you might want to use Soda instead of sand, or other more aggressive media's.
Then a sanding to smooth, light primer coat, then the finish coat.
This is of course, if you want to keep it original.
If wanting to try something different — then a wrinkle coat of the color (colors) you choose — would hide any issues or imperfections.
Also, the badge on the side is not removable — so care must be taken to mask it off.
And none of the plastic pieces, of course, can go in the oven.
Once we get some photos — there are other more expert painters on here than me — and you will get a few opinions.
I am over at Pacific Grove for a few days with Sue — to celebrate Valentines Day — and just relax and hang out with some rain, a fire in the fireplace, and good Coastal seafood dinners.
But I will be able to post pics if you send them directly to my private email.
I will PM you my email address right now.
The bail nut and lock washer were mailed out a few days ago from the US to The Netherlands. Please let me know when you receive it. There is no tracking on mail after it goes out of the borders of the US.
Best,
Fred
Received the nut Fred! Thanks for that.
Plastic part from the DQ does not need attention. Looks fine. Delivered the parts to the 'blaster' today. Could take some while. Will sent pics when there is any news. Looking forward to restore te DQ in original colors.
Regards,
Ed
Parts returned from the blaster today! Hope Fred will add the photo's and the guys on this forum will add their comments!
Regards,
Ed
Here we go, Ed —
Best,
Fred
Looking good!
If you opt for regular aerosol paint I would suggest using a filler primer to help fill any voids prior to sanding. If you are going to try to stay close to original colors you may want to look into epoxy appliance paints. They have a few different colors now and are awesome because the surface gets fairly hard. Also, a non-lacquer (because of possible adverse reactions, wrinkling, to the paint) clear coat is a great addition. The clear coat really helps protect the paint surface, just like with cars, is very easy to add and dries quick.
Body has got a new paint, not the original color...it's 'dutch green' (seems black on the photo) but hey :) first project. Cleaned the sideplate, now looking for a color matching the original rotor..
(http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q393/Reelmeneer/IMG_1062_zpsmojsmqkj.jpg) (http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Reelmeneer/media/IMG_1062_zpsmojsmqkj.jpg.html)
(http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q393/Reelmeneer/IMG_1063_zpskfvprqeh.jpg) (http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Reelmeneer/media/IMG_1063_zpskfvprqeh.jpg.html)
Is there a way to get the color back on the spool? It looks a bit greyish now instead of black..
Regards,
Ed
Like what you've done with it! I scrubbed my 440 spool with dawn dish detergent and a tooth brush 3 times to get the oxidation off. Would like to see how others tackle that too.
Beautiful job, Ed —
After struggling with how to restore the plastic spools on spinners and Bakelite sideplates on conventionals, for years — I decided to take a different approach instead of buying every new product that comes out with claims of glory...
So I tried to figure out the toughest plastics to restore , that get the most use, and hold up for years — and settled on the old original Bakelite telephones that many of us grew up with.
Then, I researched niche companies and hobbyists that either do this for a living — or a very serious hobby.
These guys were restoring old phones from the 40's through the 70's — to museum quality grade...
So I contacted them to see what their secret was —
It was this product & elbow grease —
https://www.novuspolish.com/
Novus plastic and Bakelite restoration.
It is at Amazon, it is cheap, and the most effective I have found. Cleans, removes tiny scratches, polishes, restores, brings the original color back.
Almost anything works for awhile — and I have used many of them — Black Magic, Penetrol, etc, etc..
But this is the stuff the professionals use — and buy by the gallon.
Best,
Fred
Ive have seen a lot on this site of dawn dish etc... but could not get a good translation in dutch... please help?
Here it is —
Best,
Fred
Beat me Fred,any soap for (vaatwasmiddel) should work.. but Fred's info will clean and polish plus protect .
Thanks guys!! That makes life easy!
Regards,
Ed
Dawn HD dish soap is a good, but gentle to any type of material cleaner — particularly for greased up parts that would be ruined by solvent-type solutions.
It is one of the top cleaners in my book when doing a restore that needs to be right.
However, it will not restore plastics back to their original color and shine — that is what the NOVUS is for — after the reel is cleaned with Dawn Dish Soap and hot water.
Just drop the parts into a small container of hot water and a teaspoon of Dawn — let it work for a day or two — rinse, then reassemble or polish the exterior parts.
It is very effective, and will not hurt paint, plastics, Bakelite, or graphite.
Best,
Fred
Repainted the "rotor" already placed some parts...
(http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q393/Reelmeneer/IMG_1335_zpsery1ejpy.jpg) (http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Reelmeneer/media/IMG_1335_zpsery1ejpy.jpg.html)
This one seems not ok? Is it forced?
(http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q393/Reelmeneer/IMG_1336_zpsfiprhki0.jpg) (http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Reelmeneer/media/IMG_1336_zpsfiprhki0.jpg.html)
Maybe somebody has got the exploded view of this spinning reel?
Regards,
Ed
It appears to have been bent at some point but fixing that is standard procedure when servicing used, especially older, spinning reels. It is part of adjusting how the bail, roller and their angles line up when installing the bail. That type of bail arm can be tweaked (bent) fairly easily to line up perfectly. Sometimes the bail needs to be adjusted (rebent), too, for perfect alignment. There are numerous discussions in various spinning reel threads and tutorials explaining that process.
Thank you Tom,
I will search the forum forum for an solution.
Regards,
Ed
I've had to deal with tweaking the bail arm and bail wire a few times. Kind of scary at first, trial and error, gets frustrating. When I first joined this board I didn't even know how to change bail springs.
Looked yesterday — did not have that schematic series, Ed —
But will look in some other places.
These are not complicated reels.
You should have no issues with reassembly.
I do have some similar reels — and could help you that way.
Just start with the spool — build that out.
Then assemble the rotor and bail unit.
Then do the A/R, gears, main frame.
Attach the rotor.
Slide in the spool shaft — connect it to the gearing.
Check operation — then attach the side plate & crank handle.
Snap on the spool — check for no rubbing and proper operation.
Done...
Not too much to these Quicks — if one doesn't look at the whole pile of parts at once.
Just build out the 4 main units of the reel — then put them together.
Most spinning reels can be reassembled and approached in this manner.
Lots of folks think spinners are complicated — they're not — just different.
And when you become familiar with the parts, how they interact, and a simple system for reassembly — any reel becomes fairly simple.
Not too many exceptions.
Best,
Fred
Oh my...
tried to replace te bail arm etc this afternoon. After an hour trying to get the bail spring back and functioning I gave up.
Almost thrown the thing in the bin.
Please can someone post pics or something on how to get the bail spring etc in place and functioning?
This thing is driving me crazy!!
Grtz Ed
I haven't fondled my DQ 85 for about 10 years so I don't remember if it has 1 or 2 bail springs, but if it has 2 follow these instructions as it will be a similar process. If it has 1 you only need to do the bail arm portion and then connect the roller & bail to the arm. It's not difficult, you will figure it out with a little guidance.
To assemble and install the bail onto the rotor thread the bail plate all the way onto the bail and then back it off 1/2 to one full turn so that it lays parallel with the bail. The bail springs are wound opposite and the photo shows them relative to their correct side. They must be installed on the correct side or they will be bent, sprung and difficult, if not impossible, to re-bend or adjust. The bail stopper on the Cardinal 3 installs after you install the spring and bail arm on the roller guide side. Next install the spring and bail plate/bail on the opposite side. Once installed rotate the bail in the appropriate direction to get tension on the spring and turn the bail 90 degrees. Have the line roller, teflon bushing, protecting washer and bail nut ready for installation. Check the bail to make sure it lines up perfectly with the hole in the bail arm. Bend or adjust it if needed so that there is no pressure sideways or up and down. Once the bail is adjusted properly lube and install the teflon bushing, roller guide and protecting washer. I use ArmourAll. Check to see that the bail will snap back with authority and if not adjust the springs or bail alignment accordingly.
There are some more tips under Spinning Reel Tutorials - Zebco (https://alantani.com/index.php?board=112.0) in the Cardinal 4 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20584.msg222319#msg222319) and Cardinal 6 & 7 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20718.0) tutorials.
Almost done... just a little grease and side cover to be placed. Tried the to place the bail and spring today but did not work. Wife got crazy ☺️, so did I. When I put tension on the bail, for some reason it flips and tension is gone...
(http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q393/Reelmeneer/IMG_1355_zpsbpce0vjz.jpg) (http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Reelmeneer/media/IMG_1355_zpsbpce0vjz.jpg.html)
Regards,
ed
These are very simple bails to install, Ed —
So there could be something wrong with the spring (bent spring leg that goes into the bail exterior support arm).
Or it could have to do with the plastic bail release mechanism.
I assume that you are just dropping the spring in place — attaching the bail support arm by itself — without the bail wire attached — then attaching the bail wire?
Best,
Fred
I think That's what I do Fred, spring does fit only one way. When it is fit I put the bail part with the screw together (only one way possible) and turn it anti-clock wise to get tension on it. Then I fit the bail arm. After that, when I 'open' the bail, for some reason the spring gets loose and nothing goes as expected...
Driving me crazy... should stay with abu reels... 😕
Springs and me.... not a good combo 😌
Quote from: Reelmeneer on March 14, 2019, 03:56:26 PM
I think That's what I do Fred, spring does fit only one way. When it is fit I put the bail part with the screw together (only one way possible) and turn it anti-clock wise to get tension on it. Then I fit the bail arm. After that, when I 'open' the bail, for some reason the spring gets loose and nothing goes as expected...
Driving me crazy... should stay with abu reels... 😕
Springs and me.... not a good combo 😌
I've never worked on an 84, but the bail spring on my Quicks needs turned clockwise to get tension. It sure drove me crazy the first couple of bail springs I worked on also. Is it possible you're installing the bail arm backwards? Probably not.
No tension should be applied to the spring on these until the bail support arm is in place — and the screw attached solidly.
Then it gets rotated clockwise to install the bail wire.
If your spring is distorted from installing it wrong — you may need a new one.
I can help with that if necessary — at no charge.
Best,
Fred