I have been trying to splice 50lb mono into 130 jb hollow by opening it up with some rigging wire sent to me by Alan T.
can get it started but have had no success in getting it more than a few inches in.
Do I need a hollow Needle or am I missing a trick?
thanks Jon
Quote from: jonnou on October 08, 2014, 10:04:44 AM
I have been trying to splice 50lb mono into 130 jb hollow by opening it up with some rigging wire sent to me by Alan T.
can get it started but have had no success in getting it more than a few inches in.
Do I need a hollow Needle or am I missing a trick?
thanks Jon
Did you try sanding the end of the 50lb to get rid of any burrs?
If the leader is soft too that can be annoying. Typically I find I have to open up the hollow nearly as far as I want to insert.
Colored spectra?
50 lbs mono into 130 lbs braid will not be good. at most you should use no more than 80 lbs hollow braid. 60/65 lbs is actually better. You should look into buying some hollow DaHo needles. The wire is great from making loops and to splice solid braid into hollow braid but the hollow needle make it much easier to splice mono or fluoro into hollow braid. Charkbait sell the hollow needles as well as small amount of hollow braid to make wind-ons.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on October 08, 2014, 04:14:56 PM
Colored spectra?
The colored Seaguar Threadlock is actually very easy to splice.
hi jonnou
i had the same trouble as yourself
so i got some made,they broke under his whippings,bindings,whatever!
must have been his glue,to much hassle for me,
especially when your out fishing
just keep trying
cheers
Quote from: maxpowers on October 08, 2014, 06:05:23 PM
50 lbs mono into 130 lbs braid will not be good. at most you should use no more than 80 lbs hollow braid. 60/65 lbs is actually better. You should look into buying some hollow DaHo needles. The wire is great from making loops and to splice solid braid into hollow braid but the hollow needle make it much easier to splice mono or fluoro into hollow braid. Charkbait sell the hollow needles as well as small amount of hollow braid to make wind-ons.
Yes I am practicing for the real thing
want to put 130lb mono up there
Am thinking of the needles but am trying this as it is cheep and so am I ;D ;D
and Alan said i could
and I listen to him he is not often wrong
It feels like I am snagging a fibre as the mono is inserted then it binds
Maybe it will be easier with the 130 lb mono (stiffer)
need to buy some
thanks for your reply
Have you sanded the end of the mono so it is smooth and slightly rounded?
if you can run a wire through the braid to open it up, then pushing the mono through should be much easier. what kind of briad are you using?
Jonnou said he was using JB 130 lb spectra. The reason I asked if the JB spectra was colored is because at one time there was issues with his colored spectra. The coloring process made the fibers of the spectra want to stick together making inserting anything harder, much harder if not impossible. I don't use any hollow spectra that has been colored just because of that reason. I think Jerry got the colored spectra worked out so it was not sticking to it's self many years back but that may have been a older spool where he still had issues.
Open spectra first on the wire, around 3-4 feet first. Sand the mono/fluoro with simi fine sand paper or use a fingernail sanding board and sand the line into a bullet shape at the tip of the line to be inserted inside of the spectra. This should make inserting the line into the spectra much easier.
Tapering the mono also makes for a stronger joint. Apparently square cut mono/fluoro can cause damage to the hollow core when under tension.
I have found that 80# and higher, no spicing needles are necessary. The mono/fluoro is stiff enough to force it's way through the hollow braid. Purchase some pin vices to secure your mono/fluoro and sand down the tip of the cut mono/fluoro to a taper and rounded tip for insertion into the hollow braid. I have found fingernail files (the multi-sandpaper type with a sponge) words best and is cheap...you can get them at those $1 stores or $0.99 stores. Anything smaller, wire or splicing needed is needed to open up the braid, and splicing needles are helpful.
I still have Daho needles available. Ping me if you need any sizes and I'll check to see what I have left.
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 09, 2014, 02:17:44 PM
I have found that 80# and higher, no spicing needles are necessary. The mono/fluoro is stiff enough to force it's way through the hollow braid. Purchase some pin vices to secure your mono/fluoro and sand down the tip of the cut mono/fluoro to a taper and rounded tip for insertion into the hollow braid. I have found fingernail files (the multi-sandpaper type with a sponge) words best and is cheap...you can get them at those $1 stores or $0.99 stores. Anything smaller, wire or splicing needed is needed to open up the braid, and splicing needles are helpful.
I still have Daho needles available. Ping me if you need any sizes and I'll check to see what I have left.
Well I purchased some 130lb mono to try and still having no luck.sanded ends up opened with wire
tried 80lb bit better but not easy.
It is 130lb Jb hollow in Yellow brand new spool
Running out of patience
Might be able to borrow the tackle store man's Daho needle to try
Thanks for the replys
Got a good tip from Lee (Keta)
straighten fibers by running between Forefinger and thumbnail
But still had no luck
Emailed Jerry Brown and got a detailed reply
first he was not suprised I was having trouble with the 1.2mm mono but I should be able to get the 0.8 in with no trouble
He suggested using a finer sandpaper 600g to sand polish the mono
I sanded with 120 then 220 and was able to insert 3 inches no trouble
looks like the mono was snagging the fibres
then tried his tip for the larger diameter
I reversed it a bit to allow for the rigging wire rather than a loop needle
for a test I inserted a 8 inch doubled over rigging wire (would use length of desired insertion 4 feet)
I inserted 8inches from open end of hollow and pushed loop end out of open end
then I threaded a length of 6lb spectra through the rigging wire loop and pulled through
then taking both ends of 6lb spectra an pull tight
bunch up hollow on 6lb
then start pulling out 6lb keeping hollow bunched
I was then able to feed hollow onto 150lb mono
carefully pulling out 6lb as i went
Only inserted 3 inches for a test
but will be aiming fo 4 feet
thanks Jerry for your help
thanks to all others for your valid input
thanks Lee for your tip and the contact
thanks Alan T for the rigging wire
if my explanation is not clear let me Know and I will cut and paste in Jerrys "recipie"
Cheers guys
Jon
Quote from: maxpowers on October 08, 2014, 06:05:23 PM
50 lbs mono into 130 lbs braid will not be good. at most you should use no more than 80 lbs hollow braid. 60/65 lbs is actually better. You should look into buying some hollow DaHo needles. The wire is great from making loops and to splice solid braid into hollow braid but the hollow needle make it much easier to splice mono or fluoro into hollow braid. Charkbait sell the hollow needles as well as small amount of hollow braid to make wind-ons.
Hollow needles will this easier and 3' is enough to hold the splice. I've tested splices with the mono inserted 6" but make the ones for others 3'.
I usually splice in a section of uncoated spectra on the end of my line to make splicing easier.
What is the diameter of the mono you are using, I might have a used hollow needle I can send you.
BTW, I sell DaHo needles too but do not stock them, Bryan does.
Quote from: Keta on October 17, 2014, 02:03:07 PM
Quote from: maxpowers on October 08, 2014, 06:05:23 PM
50 lbs mono into 130 lbs braid will not be good. at most you should use no more than 80 lbs hollow braid. 60/65 lbs is actually better. You should look into buying some hollow DaHo needles. The wire is great from making loops and to splice solid braid into hollow braid but the hollow needle make it much easier to splice mono or fluoro into hollow braid. Charkbait sell the hollow needles as well as small amount of hollow braid to make wind-ons.
Hollow needles will this easier and 3' is enough to hold the splice. I've tested splices with the mono inserted 6" but make the ones for others 3'.
I usually splice in a section of uncoated spectra on the end of my line to make splicing easier.
I am trying to insert 150lb mono 1.2mm
I dont think a hollow needle will help much as it will be slightly over dia
I tryed again tonight and struggled
I think I need to get some uncoated spectra to make the connection
or might splice in some powerpro to take the insertion
what is your prefered method for splicing solid spectra to hollow?
thanks for your help
There are a few ways to splice solid into hollow.
Jerry just slips the solid into the hollow and then ties a overhand knot in both close to the insert point.
I either tie a 3'-4' loop in the solid using a overhand knot (a small knot so it will slip into the hollow) or just an overhand knot 3'-4' from the end of the solid. Next insert the solid into the hollow until the knot is 1"-1.5" into the hollow then serve between the inset point and the knot. When done I pull the knot to the serving.
You can use a smaller hollow needle by cutting a long taper in the mono with a sharp blade then stick the mono into the needle as far as it will go. Be careful when inserting the line and needle so you don't pull the line out of the needle.
I have a few slightly used needles if you want one.
Thanks lee that makes sense to me.
Might take you up on that offer .
Or get a set from Jerry
Cheers Jon
Quote from: jonnou on October 19, 2014, 08:57:16 AM
Might take you up on that offer .
I can stick it in a regular envelope and get it shipped to the upside down part of the world for a reasonable price,
let me know what the line diameter is. I think I gave you the "price" that I would sell you DaHo products for, that still stands too.
Line Dia is 1.2mm
thinking of getting the glue
also thinking of heavier hollow to make wind on's (400lb?)
think I will wait till I got a good list of things then get them sent
thanks Jon
10 years down the line and I'm having the same problem trying to put 80lb mono into 65lb JB. I have never encountered hollowcore more difficult to splice than this line is. Everything goes just fine initially so it's not a diameter issue, and I can splice the same mono into 65lb braids from other brands of very similar diameter no problem. As per the original post, every few inches I hit a "tight spot" where the braid just refuses to expand and the needle pops out the side. It's like there's a locked in weave or the braid is somehow fused.
I had some JB 80lb and it behaved exactly the same. For how much this braid costs it's infuriating, I can splice cheap Daiwa hollowcore with my eyes closed, and Powerpro I could do in my sleep.
After further experimentation, I thought I had found a technique that worked but in fact I had just found a stretch of maybe 18" of braid without a "tight spot". Then I encountered another one and could progress no further, I even tried passing a smaller diameter sewing needle through it to open it up to no avail.
It turns out that under very close visual inspection the flaws in the braid are actually visible. They present as a section of obviously much more tightly woven line maybe 2mm long. These occur at random intervals in the braid.
I guess I'll just cut away braid until I get a long enough length to do a splice to my satisfaction.
For what it's worth, this was a spool of line I have had on the shelf for a long time, and would have been of similar age to the original post. Perhaps there was a quality problem around that time, who knows.
EDIT: Photos:
(https://alantani.com/gallery/38/14624-010224220010-386172142.jpeg)
Here you can see the slightly reduced diameter of the tight spot and the much closer weave.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/38/14624-010224220010-386171201.jpeg)
Here I have inserted a splicing needle, and you can clearly see the "tight spot" that will not expand, while the braid immediately after it will balloon out when slightly bunched up.
Try softening the area up by rubbing it between your thumb and finger. Not sure it will work for you but it has worked for me a few times. It didn't solve the problem a few times too. I tried rubbing the spot with the needle pushing against the hardened area.
Occsionaly the machines make minor errors.
Cut the mono at a angle and round off the cut with extra fine sandpaper.
Interesting thread. I haven't tried splicing nylon mono into PE braid but I've done a lot of nylon into dacron splices. I have encountered the same problem and discovered it was caused by fine fibres in the dacron braid forming a web in the 'tube' that prevented the smooth and tapered nylon from progressing.
Exactly the same nylon had no problem when trying to splice into the same strength dacron of a different brand and, indeed, with a different spool of the original troublesome stuff.
Interestingly, the troublesome spool also had several flaws along the length - fluffy spots and tight bits. There were half a dozen along a 1000 yard length that I had to cut out and then splice the dacron to itself to form a single length again. What a pain!
The JB I highlighted above, you would be lucky to get 2ft without hitting a flaw. I managed, battling frustration, to get through a couple of them and get a splice long enough that I was comfortable with, but the next time that reel needs a topshot put on I'm stripping the spool and putting something else on it.