Well, what can I say. Tried to remove the reel clamp studs on my penn 975, the right side came out nicely the left side was corroded tight and snapped flush on the underside of the foot. There is nothing to grab on to from the top or bottom. Wondering if Penn deals with this type problem. Or should I look around for a local machine or tool and die shop and let them have a crack at it?
Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
Like Alan says, lube the screwholes!
Thanks in advance folks.
i have a drill press and can often remove these cleanly. takes about an hour. i don't suppose you could swing by the house next week?
Wish I did live that close to you Alan. I'd gladly give you the job. I don't own a drill press. Don't want to attempt freehand drilling. Don't have an easy out set either. This would be one of those times when it sure would pay to know a guy who knows a guy!
I'll keep asking around.
If it will take Alan an hour. What will it take a tech at Penn? Who knows. I know it won't be cheap. OOOYYYY.
someone that knows what he's doing will probably have it out in 10 minutes..... :-\
Once you get that stud out,put some tef-gel on the threads & you will never have that happen again.
Yup done that may times before :-*
If you decide to take this on I'll give you a few tips, do's and don'ts.
First take the reel apart and work with the frame only.
Heat the broken stud with a penetrating oil on it. Use a fine pencil flame aimed directly on the end of the stud both front and back. It must get hot enough to make the oil smoke. This will possibly crack the corrosion bond and allow the oil to penetrate deeper.
Clamp the frame in a smooth jaw vise or protect it with cardboard to prevent marring the finish.
Drill the stud using an small drill first and center punch it so you get started exactly in the center. I use a milling machine to accurately place the drill. This is to prevent further damage to the threads.
Increase the size of the drill and then try an easy out ( this usually does not work).
Increase the drill size just until you begin to touch the threads - at this point the stud will probably just wind out the back side of the hole since it is through hole bore.
Once it is out clean it up with a tap and you should be good to go.
The good news is the diameter is about twice the depth of the bore so you can get lots of leverage compared to the amount of corroded thread. If you mess some thread because the drill is off centered the remaining threads should still be strong enough to serve. Just corrosion protect well so corrosion will not creep into the exposed metal. With the right tools and practice you can usually do this in 10-15 min since the reel is already apart for service.
Jim N.
Thanks for the replies guys. Ain't this site grand!
Found a small mom and pop machine shop about a half mile from my house. Took a shot and brought it in. Only two guys working in about a twenty machine shop. One guy was on a lathe and the other in a satellite office at a drafting table. Went to the guy at the drafting table. He said I came to the right place, he's a fisherman and could definitely get it out. He immediately dropped what he was doing and we went over to the Bridgeport milling machine. An adjustment here a chuck change there, decreasing sized drill bits. And, bam a quick pass through with a tap, she's out and clean as a whistle. All told about twenty minutes. The gent didn't want to charge me, stating he hoped the fluke regs would allow us to take a couple for the dinner table this season. I agreed with his logic on the fluke season. But, I gave him a sawbuck to get him and his co-worker some coffee and in the morning.
Yet another part of the American landscape disappearing. At it's peak I'm certain all those machines were humming.
Well I'm happy, broken stud out, problem solved.
Thanks guys!
IMHO mom and pop places are fantastic resources with all of their practical experience! They may be forced out of business, but not replaced by 'the big boys'.
Glad to hear it worked out.