Just acquired a 1950 Silver Beach 99 in just about new condition with the exception of the sideplates. Matte black and faded. I haven't read all the old posts' so forgive me if this has been discussed previously.
Any suggestions on products or technique to shine these plates back to the best condition? Don't want to muff this with products I have on hand and possibly do more harm than good. Thanks for any suggestions
G.B.
I have heard of guys using shoe polish GB. I haven't tried it myself, but I have not heard of any negative effects from it.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 06, 2015, 06:23:24 PM
I have heard of guys using shoe polish GB. I haven't tried it myself, but I have not heard of any negative effects from it.
I've tried shoe polish, both wax (Kiwi) and cream. Didn't see much difference, unfortunately.
I think I'm going to give Armor All (or something like it) a shot. :)
~A~
Just finishing up spit shining the plates ( just like boot camp) ,better, but still won't pass muster :-[
G.B.
Old greasy toothbrush. Works good on mine, brush it in good, wipe it off with a clean old t-shirt.they shine good.
Marine grease from my hands or CorrosionX works great for me.
Polish up after that. It helps by providing a moisture barrier since bakelite tends to absorb moisture expanding the sideplates.
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 06, 2015, 07:11:05 PM
It helps by providing a moisture barrier since Bakelite tends to absorb moisture expanding the sideplates.
Huh! So, Bakelite actually
is porous (albeit on a microscopic level)? Didn't know that. :)
~A~
Does anyone here remember the old black bakelite telephones?
This is what I use:
GLAYZIT
ARROW-MAGNOLIA INTERNATIONAL, INC. 2646 Rodney Lane
Dallas, Texas 75229
Toll Free: 800.527.2101
Fax: 972.484.2896 www.arrowmagnolia.com
Works very well -- it is used on all types of bakelite. From electronics, old radios, telephones, bowling balls, etc.
It is a standard in the telephone industry for the old units.
Call the above number, talk to Jack at extension #587 -- they only sell by the case since they are a wholesale distributor since 1927. Case is $129.60 for 12 aerosol cans -- that is $10.80 each.
Or, call Mike Sandman in Illinois. 1-630-980-7710 -- they will sell by the can. Hopefully you will get put on hold at Mike Sandman's -- so you can listen to the recording while you wait -- it is great!
A case at Sandman's is $151.95 + about $12 - $16 shipping to California -- it must go ground, since it is a hazardous product. A single can is $13.59 + about $10 shipping.
I generally hesitate to buy aerosol products by the case -- since by the time I get to the last 6 of 12 -- they sometimes lose their steam -- and I wasted a lot of $$$. However, I end up selling some to clients -- and make enough to cover the product I purchase -- and still have enough for me. But it is only for walk-in clients, since I do not want to go through the hassle of shipping hazardous materials -- takes too much time and money.
Best,
Fred
Leave it to Fred! He has all the bases Covered! ;)
Quote from: foakes on January 06, 2015, 07:24:24 PMA single can is $13.59 + about $10 shipping.
I also found a single can here: http://www.radiodaze.com/glayzit-telephone-refinisher-item-glayzit/ :)
~A~
Well I blew it, didn't know about the stuff when the wife and I passed through Bridgeport coming and going from our seven day last August, coulda stopped in and picked up a can ;D.
Aiala, used a product similar to Armorall, a Turtle Wax product called 2001. That old bakelite soaked it up like a sponge. The reel is in good condition but appears to have sat in a sunny windowsill for the last sixty years. I'll try to post a pic when I get it back together.
I'll have to research a source for GLAYZIT in less than case quanities, if Fred says it's what to use, you KNOW it's what to use. G.B
I use brasso and a Dremel with a buffing attachment. Here is the results I got.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141214_163028_zps089b4896.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141214_163028_zps089b4896.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141214_163821_zpsa3575324.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141214_163821_zpsa3575324.jpg.html)
Thanks for all the suggestions, seems there's more than one way to skin a cat! Will try the brasso next. Came out O.K. but there's always new tricks to learn on this forum. And yeah,Fred, I remember Bakelite telephones...used to call my wife on one in high school ;D
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m88/Islandgypsy01/3efc4c6d5ec46a889aa51f202c475811_zps77eccc3b.jpg)
Just ordered a can of Glayzit... gosh, that stuff is expensive! :P But if Fred recommends it, 'nuff said. I can't wait to try it out on a very old Long Beach 68 (with the lighthouse side plate and no stamped part numbers.) :)
~A~
Quote from: Aiala on January 06, 2015, 10:33:17 PM
Just ordered a can of Glayzit... gosh, that stuff is expensive! :P But if Fred recommends it, 'nuff said. I can't wait to try it out on a very old Long Beach 68 (with the lighthouse side plate and no stamped part numbers.) :)
~A~
Post pics! I would love to see it after its done!
X2
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on January 06, 2015, 10:50:36 PM
Post pics! I would love to see it after its done!
Of course I will, but the Glayzit stuff won't arrive for a few days. :)
~
A~
Hi Aiala --
You might do a little experimentation on a couple of old loose sideplates to get the feel of how long to leave the solution on before wiping and polishing. You have a broken Sideplate coming back to you in the mail, along with an assembled new one.
They do claim that the product will clean and polish -- but I prefer to clean the sideplates, dry them completely, then apply the Glayzit -- let it stay on for 3 to 30 minutes, depending on how bad they are -- then buff them dry with a soft cloth. Sometimes I will also use an automotive chamois for a final rub down, after the cloth.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on January 07, 2015, 06:08:56 AM
I prefer to clean the sideplates, dry them completely, then apply the Glayzit -- let it stay on for 3 to 30 minutes, depending on how bad they are -- then buff them dry with a soft cloth. Sometimes I will also use an automotive chamois for a final rub down, after the cloth. Best, Fred
Good morning, Fred...
Sounds like a plan, I'll do exactly that. I've already Simple Greened the Long Beach side plates, they are bone-dry and clean as a whistle, but awfully faded; the Glayzit will have a perfect opportunity to shine! :D
~
A~
P.S. Come to think of it, I'll probably treat the Silver Beach you fixed, too!
Good old fashion olive oil works great for me.
I have been using Mothers Back to Black. It works, but sometimes takes several applications and some elvo grease. A buffing wheel on the drill or benchtop grinder takes some of the work out of the process. I suspect the results might also be limited to 6-12months of reexpisure to the elements.
Did you guys ever try your wifes' furniture polish? Lemon Pledge works for me & smells great.Spray it on, rub it in with your finger, & buff it up with a soft cloth. Just let it soak awhile. Even overnight. RUDY
Quote from: fishhead69 on February 01, 2015, 11:26:43 PM
Good old fashion olive oil works great for me.
Fishhead you must be Italian. We use olive oil for everything. ;) Dominick
I've recently heard about using mayonnaise to polish kitchen cabinets. Hmm, I wonder....
Fred's Glayzit recommendation was spot-on; the plates seemed to drink it in and now look much less weather-worn. For additional lustre, I coat them with light synthetic oil and put them in a baggie for overnight or even longer. Wipe off the excess, and... SHINY! :D
~A~
I'm been using Armor All on my Long Beach plates several times today. They seem to be coming back to life, but I suspect they'll always have a somewhat dull mat finish. We'll see....
303 Protectant!
I swear by it on exposed plastics.
Yeh Dominick I am part Italian. Just add a little garlic and you're good to go. LOL
I just used Corrosion X on a few 4/0 Senators from a friend that had been left OUTSIDE for the last few years...sigh. The plates were basically white, sprayed them with Corrosion X and let them sit for a few minutes, then wiped off and walked away. After about 20 minutes they look GREAT, obviously not brand new, but far better than I thought I would be able to get them. Hope this helps!
Quote from: Slazmo on February 10, 2015, 12:38:05 PM
303 Protectant!
I swear by it on exposed plastics.
[/quote
X2
I use the 303 protectant for everything, even my hypalon inflatable boat. Like the advertisement says "it's sp40 for your stuff". It shines and protects from future sun damage. A little goes a long way.
Quote from: fsrmn on February 13, 2015, 10:57:05 PMA little goes a long way.
Use it on a piece of sponge and keep that sponge in a zip lock bag for next time, amazing how long that one sponge can go.
if you spray it onto a cloth the cloth just soaks it up and you get very little out.
I'm going to have to get some 303 and try it.
I use S100, apply a light coat on the part, and buff it out, you can finish out with a nice car wax will really bring it out. Another technique is to try using one of those harbor freight buffing kits. Almost all of them have a rouge for plastic, that would work with that, once your buffing wheel is set up you can lightly (key word is lightly) run the side plate on the buffing wheel (drill or grinder mounted). it will take out light scratches, but don't try to get the deep ones you well actually take material away and cause it to be wavy like.
I hope that works for you.