is acetone alright to clean bearings? then use tsi 301
most people use carb or brake cleaner. I've personally only use brake cleaner and works pretty well. Just take the shielfs off and clean them. Havent used acetone though.
thanks reelz,
thats what ive been doing for a long time now.
i read a report and the bloke said use brake cleaner and comp; air or use acetone
thats why i asked,ive never used acetone on bearings
Hi All,
We use benzine to clean out bearings, then just leave them to dry out on absorbant paper towel, a few 'soft' taps with a pencil knocks some of the residue out. Then we re-oil, usually without taking the shields out.
Have used a ultrasonic cleaner - water for main bath, then drop the bearrings in a glass bottle of benzine. That really shakes all the residue out. Then just let the benzine evaporate, before oiling.
Only use the ultrasonic system on bearings for competition reels - works really well.
By not removing the shields, we avoid possible damage to them, and possibly disrupting the bearing later in use.
Just our method around the same problem that everybody has, but then we only oil our bearings for surf casting.
Cheers from sunny Africa,
Jeri
thanks jeri
have you ever used acetone, anybody.
Hi,
Acetone doesn't dissolve some greases, not as fully as benzine in our experience. Also, it is a very aggressive chemical, and might easily cause some harm to users. We only use a little in our rod building, and then only when really necessary.
Cheers
Jeri
I have used acetone on ball bearings in the past, it cleaned them very quickly and evaporated almost immediately.
Great stuff for removing grp resins and epoxies too ;)
I use acetone all the time and find it great. Use it in a well ventilated area though. Copying an idea I saw on another site, I machined up a threaded brass rod to hold the bearings with a nut, which I then spin in a small jar of acetone using a Dremel. Gets bearings really clean in a couple of minutes and does not leave a residue. The only way to do it in my view.
Some separators are plastic :-\
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 13, 2012, 10:48:58 PM
Some separators are plastic :-\
Haven't come across plastic in my bearings - baitcasters and small spinners only. Some have removable rubber shields - eg Bocas - which should always be removed. A few minutes on a Dremel has resurrected some bearings I thought were finished, and you don't need to remove the shields.
While I have experience with both, I can't understand why you would use acetone over lighter fluid ???
Acetone is a plastics solvent used in the fiberglass industry, NOT a petrochemical degreaser.
Lighter fluid is a proper grease solvent and evaporates clean leaving no residue.
Surely, it would have to be much more effective than acetone?
~
The DOW product sheet says it is a degreaser and I've used it to degrease surfaces for painting.
Ron
Quote from: Jeri on December 13, 2012, 10:16:10 AM
Acetone doesn't dissolve some greases, not as fully as benzine in our experience.
That would be my take as well.
Benzine aka Shellite (Australia) aka Coleman Fuel (USA) known generally as lighter fluid would be a much more effective grease solvent than acetone.
It's is widely used in reel servicing to clean parts and is virtually odorless.
Keep the acetone for rod building.
~
Actually, acetone is one of the cleanest evaporating solvents there is. Most solvents will leave some residue. Acetone is used to clean optics and mirrors in telesopes, because it doesn't leave any residue. try this simple test. Put a drop of your solvent on a clear sheet of glass and then put a drop of acetone on the glass. Let them both evaporate and see what you have left. Any solvent thats petroleum based will leave an oily residue. I have used both acetone and several other solvents to clean bearings. I now use a generic camp stove fuel because it works good and it's cheap. I still use acetone as the final rinse on all stainless steel bearings because i know it leaves them cleaner than any petroleum based solvent.
I use IPA (isopropryl alcohol) 99%+ not rubbing alcohol. Acetone will dissolve certain plastics IPA does not. I place the bearings in a tiny glass jar. Cover them in IPA. Place the jar in a warm water bath of an ultrasonic cleaner (small jewellery type - from Ebay!). 3 minutes later done :) I additionally use the IPA to 'dilute' TSI321 - 80% IPA to 20% TSI321 (the same ratio as TSI301 - BUT TSI321 ships more easily and doesn't leak ;)). The solvent used in TSI301 is very toxic and unavailable in the UK.
Brake cleaner works fine and I don't mind the fumes. I usually use a small shot of WD-40/Liquid Wrench/Corrosion-X then compressed air, then I use a small shot of brake cleaner to remove all the thinned down stuff followed by a shot of compressed air and maybe another shot of brake cleaner. It takes all of 5-10 seconds. I use the lighter viscosity WD-40/Liquid Wrench/Corrosion-X to thin the grease down, then the brake cleaner to remove the rest of the grease. It really works well and fast. I started using the WD-40/stc. before the brake cleaner after taking some recommendations from Alan when I started a few years ago. Ever since then, it's been a cake walk. Bearings stripped and cleaned ready for lube takes less than a minute or two once opened and removed from the reel.
yep I use brake cleaner also and have no problem at all with it. when I clean my ceramic hybrids after a few casting tournaments I remove the covers, rinse in brake cleaner and they are good to go again, the stainless steel ones I do the same process but I ad heat from a lighter when most of the cleaner has evaporated and I spin the bearing on a spindle then while the bearing is still hot I put a drop of thin oil in because as you know oil goes thinner in heat so the rest runs out as I spin it up on the spindle leaving only a very small amount inside that's for my casting reels though, my fishing reels I do the same but use a thicker oil, I know everyone has their own way of cleaning them but just thought I would share how I do mine :)
Wow! A new one on me. Heat and slick does the trick. :D Or would one say warm and smear for the gear? One could say warm and anoint is the point. Is this just silly? ::) BTW Welcome Rhino. Dominick
;D ;D ;D it works well for me Dominick, thanks mate it seems to be a fantastic site, bunch of great guys
I tried some Hoppes No 9 gun cleaner and it works great. Only because I was out of everything else, if you can get past the stink. ::)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 27, 2014, 04:57:36 PM
I tried some Hoppes No 9 gun cleaner and it works great. Only because I was out of everything else, if you can get past the stink. ::)
No stink, smells like old times to me. It brings back great memories of my high school rifle team. No such things today I suppose.
I've used Gun Scrubber by Birchwood Casey to melt away nasty congealed grease. Just bought a can on Amazon to prep my 9/0 for new parts. :)
~A~
Ok,I searched this forum and think I found the answer,but ask it anyway.Can I get enough oil into the smaller bearings without removing the shields?or have I been wasting oil for all those years? Plus I couldnt get the shields off anyway
if i'm going to oil a bearing, i just drizzle oil into the bearing. it should work fine.
Hi folks, sorry for piggy-back the topic.
I was wondering if It's ok to pack the bearings using the yamaha marine grease with one drop of reelX. On the bearing for the main shaft and the ones on the right and left side (Penn 8500) I also have different types of grease if you guys think it is more suitable but not the outboard. Have some that looks like outboard grease that I've seen in this forum.
The Penn 710Z has only one bearing on the main shaft with is shielded and I can't open it up to lube. However it seems to be in good shape but would hurt to lube is also, just don't' know how since I can't open it.
On the smaller reels, just ReelX with a coat of grease on both sides (outer sides)?
Thanks as usual
Marcos TSI301/321 for bearings that have to spin quickly, eg casting conventionals/ baitcasters. Marine grease for bearings that do not spin quickly (also gears, shafts and non-movers.), trolling and larger spinners. Small freshwater spinners I use TSI321 on all the bearings, marine grease on the gears and shafts.
bryan mixes corrosion x and grease all the time. i'm too lazy....... ;D
When working on a reel and have all bearings removed I put them in a container of Lacquer Thinner while I service other parts of the reel. I do this allot on the larger trolling reels that have the thick grease in the bearings. When it's time for the bearings they are further cleaned with Carb cleaner and light pressure compressed air is used to dry them and make sure they are fully clean. Doing this saves me time and money on the Carburetor cleaner.
Most spinners with greased bearings are done the same way.
For smaller bait casting reels I just use the Carb cleaner and compressed air.
I also mix the CorrosionX with marine grease. I mix a big plastic tub of it and suck it up into one of the small grease guns. This is for use in some spinning reels and conventional reels.
Quote from: MarcosG on October 06, 2014, 12:17:10 PM
Hi folks, sorry for piggy-back the topic.
I was wondering if It's ok to pack the bearings using the yamaha marine grease with one drop of reelX. On the bearing for the main shaft and the ones on the right and left side (Penn 8500) I also have different types of grease if you guys think it is more suitable but not the outboard. Have some that looks like outboard grease that I've seen in this forum.
The Penn 710Z has only one bearing on the main shaft with is shielded and I can't open it up to lube. However it seems to be in good shape but would hurt to lube is also, just don't' know how since I can't open it.
On the smaller reels, just ReelX with a coat of grease on both sides (outer sides)?
Thanks as usual
This is where I use the new Yamaha blue/green grease mixed with CorrosionX. Just oil doesn't work and just grease will slow down the reel and make it sluggish to crank. I have it mixed in the small grease gun with Alan T's bearing packer. You can do the same by opening the bearing, cleaning, add CorrosionX to the bearing, and then grease.
Also when you have the pressed in shielded bearings like on the Penn 710 you can remove one shield, clean and service, and put the open side of the bearing down into the cup of the reels body. Alan has a tutorial here on how to open all bearings.
Sure you can mix ReelX with Yamaha Marine Grease. It works just fine.
I used to mix Evinrude Triple Guard with CorrosionX until I started using Yamaha Marine Grease. If I feel that the grease is just too thick, I dip the bearing in TSI301, then pack with Yamaha Grease. It works for me. I think TSI bonds to the bearing and races and the grease just fills in the gaps and helps cushion the bearings, races, and everything else in the bearing. At least that is what I think is happening.
By the way, I tried cleaning bearings with acetone for the first time. I place the bearings in a jar, covered with acetone, closed the jar and placed the jar in the ultrasonic cleaner and the bearings were spotless. I think I'm going to start cleaning gears in this manner.
You folks are awesome. As a newbee here I've learned a lot.
I finished both reels today and followed the good advices.
I improvised a bit. I used some empty prescription botles and placed the bearings inside with mineral spirits odorless. I then close with the lid shoked and waited 30 min.
Lot of crap came out of them. Instead of firing up my air compressor I use my small electric air dust to dry. After applying the marine grease with the reelx I noticed some stiffness but it went away after awhile.
I now have 3 more penns 550 to do and after that my shimanos which is a different story I guess (bantam oil for bearing, permalube grease and star drag grease). Never opened my shimanos before but I see some tutorials here. Thanks again guys.
By the way, this is the electric air duster that I used. It is a great tool if you also work with computers also and I don't work for this company.
Bryan my cleaning process is the same as yours solvent+bearings/gears/other parts in a jar placed in ultrasonic cleaner. The only difference is I use IPA instead of acetone (less toxic).
I also use hot water in the ultasonic bath - it helps to breakdown hardened grease :)
My best results have been using brake cleaner.
Me too. Brake cleaner does the job quick. ;)