Reel Repair by Alan Tani

  This is how I tie the arbor knot for bait casters.     Put the reel in free spool.
      I tape the line to the side of the spool.   Pay out 4 turns , yes the line goes on backwards for 4 turns .      Remove tape end and pull it out so you can tie a Rapala knot around the main line .     Test it and see if it works for you.

This is the one's in going to work  on,,,,,

My back yard 5 riding mowers that I got to get fixed first the wheel horse 520 or the GT500 or the snapper,,,, because the new troy built is #%@$,,,,he he,,,but I to push mow the front yard,,,,,,

Quote from: Brewcrafter on April 27, 2024, 04:42:46 PMJurelometer touched on it; keep in mind also what I will for want of a better description call the "lever".  Attempts to get the braid to slip with wraps directly on the spool would be akin to attempting to loosen a bolt using just your fingers.  But when you then use a wrench on the bolt, you now have introduced a lever the length of the wrench, and in the case of a spool, that lever is more a less the Radius of the line piled on the spool (for arguments sake say 2"?).  So if you pull on the line now, using the same amount of pulling force that you are applying with the "2 wrap test", you are actually multiplying the level of torque that is being seen.  Probably some pretty basic calculations; but I cut class that day to go fishing.....- john

   I`m with ya , I cut a lot of classes also .  I started my test with just starting the bolt , I did not finger tighten .   Not sure I am following you on the "2 wrap test", but torque and drag efficiency decrease as more layers go on the spool.

Quote from: oc1 on April 27, 2024, 06:47:29 AMA clove hitch with four wraps will not slip if the wraps are going in the correct direction.  The more you pull the tighter it gets. 

I agree with you ,not sure about clove hitch knot .

Quote from: jurelometer on April 27, 2024, 05:32:07 AMRight now, you are just to the point of proving that thin braid does not have to slip once you are at exactly two wraps on the spool. I do this test (not to the point of breakage) on every spool fill.

 I think what is happening in your test is that the tighter you pull the line, the tighter the arbor knot cinches down.  BUT... things are going to change as you put more line on the spool.  Eventually,  the tension from pulling on the line  does not make it all the way to the arbor knot.  Plus compression from above is going to flatten out the braid on the bottom, making it more like a bushing of low friction plastic.  Probably plus some other stuff that I haven't even thought of.

I am confused a bit.  Are you asserting that line slippage doesn't happen or are you trying to ferret out when and why it happens? Or something else?

-J   Enough folk have had this happen at higher drag settings that the SoCal saltwater shops started taping and then flex wrapping arbors, and didn't have problems after that.  I went to a well respected SoCal shop , and they 100% flat out refused to do a spool fill for me unless they taped the arbor. Zero interest in how "some customer" might prefer to do it.  They also kindly and patiently explained to me some (wrong) stuff about how reels work. 

Yes I am trying to ferret out why and when it happens .   More so because main stream spooling usual dead ends the line to the arbor pin or to the hole in the arbor shaft . 
         So how does the line slip on the spool?    I do understand that starting spooling without enough tension will result in dig ins and line waffling .      My next question is when the first layer goes down on the arbor ,are the wraps close together all the way across the spool or they corkscrewed with the second layer crisscrossed filling in the first layer , like a level wind will do .

That's a whopper Bennie!

I got 4 today,,,,   and this one pulled a crowd of about 10 people,,,,

so, i've been looking at these reels as a beefier replacement to abu 6500 reels for bigger salmon in the northwest....did you ever figure out what caused the slight grinding/imperfect condition after replacing the bearings etc? was it a bent shaft or? They appear to be super durable..just wonder if it was user error or manufacturer quality.

Hi jurelometer,

That is an insightful analysis and I do appreciate the feedback.  I was originally going to replace the bushing with a SS needle bearing because it would have been much less machine work.  However, two issues kept me from going that route.  The first being that the shaft wasn't hardened and second there was no easy way to create a thrust surface for the clip to ride against. I guess I could have used bronze washer but that seemed much less elegant.
 
The bearing I chose, Enduro 71801 LLB, is typically used in the cycling industry for hubs and pedals.  I couldn't find a data sheet so it would be difficult to verify their claim of ABEC 5 and 235 lb-ft static load.  Only time will tell if the rubber seals and stainless steel will last in a saltwater environment.

Does this application require an AC bearing?  Probably not.  If the engineers at Penn think that two deep groove bearings is the correct approach who am I to argue? E.g Penn Torque 40 NLD2

Was there in improvement?  Absolutely.  Without a doubt turning the handle is way smoother.  Is the improvement due the AC bearing, I doubt it.  I think any ball bearing would have worked.

I'll use the AC bearing this season to see if I run into any issues.  If I do I can always replace it with an OEM Penn bearing.