It seems like everyonce in a while you find what you want, or so it seems. This Stainless steel tubing is just the thing for making stardrag reels (113h in this case) a custom gearsleeve tubing spacers. Its 1/16 (.062'') wall thickness is good. inner dia. of .50'' and outer dia of 5/8'' (.650+) As is sometimes the case the factory ones can be too short. So with some drag packages the length can now be quite easily made.
Shown below is the link to a supplier .
STAINLESS STEEL TUBING 5/8" O.D. X 10 INCH LENGTH X 1/16" WALL 16MM TB16X010
STAINLESS STEEL TUBING 5/8" O.D. X 10 INCH LENGTH X 1/16" WALL 16MM TB16X010
( 401509059244 )
This is an E-bay sale. Sold by tibwholesales ( 26539 ) This is marketed as food grade-dairy-brewing- quality.
Subtotal $4.98
Shipping $3.80
Total
$8.78 The Length is 10 inches in this case. Shipping was from mid USA and quite fast I thought. Other sizes of course are available.
The tube will be cut for the first spacer length of .375. Or a smidgen more and shortened as needed. 🤦♀️
What can ya cut it with?
The last hot rod reel I assembled can use a longer than the .350" penn spacer and still back off the stay to zero tension. Others I've done a brass tube was used, butt this seems better. 🐠
Gfish - on a lathe I use HSS Co tools - That is high speed steel with added cobalt. I also use HSS Co drills - they last longer and cut better. If you use brass tube anything will cut it :)
Just be careful when dealing with stainless steel on stainless moving parts.
Quote from: Black Pearl on April 06, 2018, 08:53:04 PM
Just be careful when dealing with stainless steel on stainless moving parts.
Be careful and look for? ???
Quote from: swill88 on April 06, 2018, 09:40:12 PM
Quote from: Black Pearl on April 06, 2018, 08:53:04 PM
Just be careful when dealing with stainless steel on stainless moving parts.
Be careful and look for? ???
It is not a good ideal to make a sleeve space in stainless steel especially when the sleeve is in stainless steel. It has too much contact. That was the reason my resource did not make those JigMaster sleeve spaces in stainless steel. Something will go bad eventually. But, who knows.
Similar materials rubbing against each other have a tendency to gall, especially under load. With ferrous metals, you can often use different alloys with different heat treating to get around it. I'm not certain what either of the alloys in question are. If I had allthe money in the world, I'd make the sleeve out of Monell, at least it works in the propulsion plant of a submarine.
Ron
Quote from: Ron Jones on April 07, 2018, 11:51:41 AM
Similar materials rubbing against each other have a tendency to gall, especially under load. With ferrous metals, you can often use different alloys with different heat treating to get around it. I'm not certain what either of the alloys in question are. If I had allthe money in the world, I'd make the sleeve out of Monell, at least it works in the propulsion plant of a submarine.
Ron
Many SS alloys are real bad for galling.
Thanks everybody. I learned something Ron!
Mo·nel
mōˈnel
nountrademark
noun: Monel metal
a nickel-copper alloy with high tensile strength and resistance to corrosion.
Steve
Monel is also used as a fishing line.
It is very durable, corrosive resistant and heavy. It is used in ots of areas where corrosion would be very bad and where a surface may be a bearing. Like I said though, a gold plated reel might be cheaper.
Ron
Quote from: swill88 on April 07, 2018, 02:14:18 PM
Thanks everybody. I learned something Ron!
Mo·nel
mōˈnel
nountrademark
noun: Monel metal
a nickel-copper alloy with high tensile strength and resistance to corrosion.
Steve
I prefer Inconel over monel but both are better than SS.
Quote from: Keta on April 07, 2018, 03:14:04 PM
Quote from: swill88 on April 07, 2018, 02:14:18 PM
Thanks everybody. I learned something Ron!
Mo·nel
mōˈnel
nountrademark
noun: Monel metal
a nickel-copper alloy with high tensile strength and resistance to corrosion.
Steve
I prefer Inconel over monel but both are better than SS.
Steve-meister & Lee,
You two are true MetalHeads!!!!!
Monel... Inconel... "I don't know Nell",
I too learned something on this rainy Saturday am,
http://blog.loosco.com/bid/104775/distinguishing-between-inconel-and-monel
Both metals are a high a Nickel alloy, with Inconel used in areas of oxidation & high-temperature corrosion.
The depth & breadth of knowledge on this site is very wide & deep.
Wayne
Thanks for the information. Brass is used a lot on reel parts and easy to machine, butt, thought this would be better. Now I am advised.🤦♀️
Haven't made anything yet. Still may. With grease and a loose fit on the gear sleeve I,m not anticipating any problems. The brass star 🌟 is soft. Thanks again for the comments. :'(
Gary,
I bet it wouldn't take ong to find out if you had an issue. It will work great or it will be jittery. If assembled with the precision I know you'll use, I bet it will make one smooth operating drag.
Ron
Stainless steel galling is not now days an issue. This is a fact. Unless you build two opposing surfaces of the same grade of stainless. Yes some are worse than others.
How to build properly with stainless with out the galling issues has been common knowledge prior to 1970. We see guns & all manner of things built with extreme impact & tensile stress to bearing surfaces machined from stainless with no issues.
A regular individual will live their life with out ever having the need for extreme high strength, ultra corrosion resistant metals like Inconel or Monel... Jeff
Don't hate me Jeff.
I guess I'm not a regular person. I work with monel, Inconel and other cupro-nickel fasteners and piping all the time. People always said I'm weird.
Ron
;D ;D Oh now.... I've worked with both myself making receivers for rifles. It's good stuff.
Inconel and Monel suck to machine...
Stainless galling is only an issue in particular circumstances, particularly high load and friction. Further, its mainly a (bad) property of the soft 300 series grades. The harder grades are far less susceptible to galling, like the 400 series when heat treated, PH alloys (15-5, 17-4, 17-7, etc), and so on. There wouldnt be any more issue with a stainless spacer than a stainless gear sleeve than using a stainless star on the same sleeve.
Alan, arent your gear sleeves heat treated 400 series stainless?
Quote from: Three se7ens on April 07, 2018, 10:45:32 PM
Inconel and Monel suck to machine...
It can be a pain to work with.
The surface is hard. It takes an extremely, very rigid, heavy lathe or mill cutting bigger chips than usual. All cutting heads were ceramic. The surface can move a bit after heavy machine work. Found it a good idea to let some work that had been heavily worked to sit over night & stabilize.
Don't be hating and denigrating brass/bronze. It was getting the job done before stainless and monel were invented. It will still get the job done if you accept it is a little softer and requires the material to be a little thicker.
-steve
Thanks for the further input on what seems to be a hot topic! ??? I know you all want to help, and you have. I am learning a lot from the wealth of information shared here. I thank you all.
After thinking more about this galling thing, Does the tube spacer spin under heavy drag load by picking up rotating friction from the gear washer? Something tells me that if so thats where the only problem might come from. If so ? I have never seen any drag stars with and grooves, heat marks, or other telltale marks on the undersides of them. Butt these are usually brass (factory).
I,m not knocking brass parts in any way. These are easier to work with simple tools. I have used copper (type M) with ok results as it was all I could find in my out of the way Town. Brass would be better. Chromed brass even more so. Thanks again ;)
Quote from: oc1 on April 08, 2018, 07:22:01 AM
Don't be hating and denigrating brass/bronze. It was getting the job done before stainless and monel were invented. It will still get the job done if you accept it is a little softer and requires the material to be a little thicker.
-steve
Brass & Bronze were great & still are. What I like most about them is for small parts they both can be fit & worked with simple hand tools... Jeff
I really think the galling thing is a non-issue. Smarter people than me learned me. Can't wait to see your spacers.
Ron
Quote from: Rivverrat on April 07, 2018, 06:16:02 PM
A regular individual will live their life with out ever having the need for extreme high strength, ultra corrosion resistant metals like Inconel or Monel... Jeff
I have a Inconel 625 halibut harpoon tip and a Hasteloy rock scallop bar.... ;D The Inconel was tough on the tooling and the Hasteloy had to be shaped on a belt grinder.
Quote from: oc1 on April 08, 2018, 07:22:01 AM
Don't be hating and denigrating brass/bronze. It was getting the job done before stainless and monel were invented. It will still get the job done if you accept it is a little softer and requires the material to be a little thicker.
-steve
Not all brass alloys are soft and bronze is a very good material.
Quote from: gstours on April 08, 2018, 04:09:07 PM
Does the tube spacer spin under heavy drag load by picking up rotating friction from the gear washer?
The spacer is pinched between the top keyed washer and the star, all 3 spin with the gearsleve.
Quote from: gstours on April 08, 2018, 04:09:07 PM
Does the tube spacer spin under heavy drag load by picking up rotating friction from the gear washer? Something tells me that if so thats where the only problem might come from. If so ? I have never seen any drag stars with and grooves, heat marks, or other telltale marks on the undersides of them. Butt these are usually brass (factory).
Not if the drag stack is ordered appropriately. The top drag washer should be keyed to the gear sleeve, so the only motion the spacer sees is when turning the drag star. When drag is pulled out of the reel, the main gear spins in relation to the gear sleeve. The gear sleeve is prevented from turning backwards by the dogs, so it, and everthing keyed to the gear sleeve stays stationary.
Brass and bronze are fantastic. In many cases, they are as strong as, if not stronger than the 300 series of stainless steels. And they generally machine better, and conduct heat and electricity better.
Thanks for the facts, :) I,m learning more stuff everyday here! Certainly the brass and bronze materials machine and grind saw file easier. Ive never seen a brass dog or main gear fail, as they are inexpensive, and quite available they can be easily replaced after inspection. Butt we are talking about the spacer tube here. The ease of working with brass certainly switches my thinking. Butt Stainless steel tube can be welded so it can have some other versatility . Thanks for the info. The reels, and line we are using are waay better than what we started with before joining this Alan Tani Site. I am most gratefull for guy stuff infosharing in a very civilized dialog. :-*
Brass & Bronze can be silver soldered / brazed. As can most all copper based alloys. They have soldered / brazed joint strength of 30,000 PSI & up to & above 70,000 PSI. A copper based alloy will give way most times prior to joint failure.
Brass & Bronze are both fantastic metals that will always have a place for us & all others who like to fabricate parts on their own... Jeff
Thanks again for more information. When I moved to Alaska I sold my acetylene stuff. Dumb yes. I only have propane and tig for heat sources. Hence my post. Also I have started to like the brass colors more as we move to the brighter sst stuff. We are very lucky to have so many options. Thanks 🙏 an cheers 🍻
Just what is that cat thinking ?