Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I think Benni is using top secret Jurelometer flies!  He's killing it right now!  Are they Katy Perry patterns? - john

Quote from: oc1 on May 04, 2024, 05:32:15 AMMan, it took you long enough  .  I remember way back when you first went to that Orvis meeting.

Those are some pretty incredible trout you guys are in to.

Thanks man,,,, we had to go back today to see if dewayne could hook him again but no luck,,,,,,

Hi Andrew —-

I will send you a new frame, new improved trip lever, a new trip lever spring, and a new trip lever screw, on Monday.

N/C.

No worries.

Let's get that puppy fishing!

Best, Fred

Thanks for the response Fred! Just so everyone knows the backstory, I picked up a 110 here in Australia that was missing the whole bail assembly. Fred sent me a whole new assembly, but what I missed was the trip lever foot was bent. I got it all together with the new bail but the bail still doesn't trip.

I then had a look in more depth at the complete linkage and it seems the trip lever has had a tough life. It wasn't straight where it protrudes out of the rotor, as if enough force had been put on the bail to bend it. That straightened out fine. But where it contacts the frame trip nub, the lever was not 90 degrees and looks like it has been bent multiple times. Unfortunately, the lever already has a stress crack from being bent, and me straightening it softly has caused it to become even more flimsy.

I've attached some photos. As you can see in them, the nub on the frame has also worn significantly. I'm going to put it on the back burner at the moment, if I happen across another 110 I'll try a replacement lever to see if it works, although I'm worried that the nub is worn too much and it may not be repairable short of getting JB weld or something to try and fill back out the nub.

I am guessing the previous owner tried things, couldn't get it working and gave up, likely losing the bail in the process.

Andrew

The JB I highlighted above, you would be lucky to get 2ft without hitting a flaw. I managed, battling frustration, to get through a couple of them and get a splice long enough that I was comfortable with, but the next time that reel needs a topshot put on I'm stripping the spool and putting something else on it.

Greetings, PJ, and welcome to the site.  Lots of folks here who like vintage equipment.

Frank

 The boat has 6'6" MH trevala rods with accurate boss reels....and there's no rental fee for using the boat gear. Anyone bringing their own rod and reel should have a good reel cover, cause the only storage is at the bait tank, and things get plenty of sea spray during 6-8 hour run out and run back in

That article is about wire rope.  Laid wire rope is very different than loosely woven PE braid that is going to always lay flat as you wind it.  Braid doesn't even have a real measurable diameter. Wire rope loses some usefulness and probably strength if it gets deformed from being flattened.  Braid don't care unless you pretty much crush it.

Both  are relatively low-stretch products, so the difficulty in maintaining tension in the bottom coils could be something in common, but I would hesitate in drawing  too many conclusions from such vastly different materials.

—————-
An idea hit me on how to make progress:  You folk keep trying to solve this problem the hard way.  Instead of trying to solve it for you in various ways, allow me to lay out the problem in a more solvable format for anyone interested to take a whack at.  I will probably learn some more stuff myself in the process :

Instead of looking at spool slipping from the inside out (starting  at the arbor knot - this is the hard way), how about looking from the outside in?  This way, you will be following  the load from the source to the slip, just the way that it is actually happening in real life.

I think that these are the key questions: 

How and where does the force that leads to slippage transfer from linear to radial? How much and how far can some of this linear directed energy pass into and  through the line? Will any of this energy travel all way to the arbor?  If the spool fill is rotating, what type of force causes this rotation?  What forces resist this rotation?  Does surface contact area matter for this resistance?  Are there multiple frictional surfaces of the line on the spool, and do the number of frictional surfaces matter for this resistance?  What is the effect of compressive forces on the fill, and is the effect different at different fill depths?  What is different about nylon monofilament that makes spool slippage a non-problem?

Some of the above has been discussed in this thread, some of it is discussed in intro-to-physics explanations of sliding friction, and some of is from our observations of spool fills that slip.  But we have pretty much all of this information at hand, and I think that this  makes the answer to the question in the title of the thread reasonably apparent. 

The answer is at your doorstep.  You just have to make sure that you are looking out the front door.   

-J

I had a similar issue and solved it by removing the handle, the wavy washer and the knurled-knob.

I then reassembled starting with the addition of a small lightweight spring under the knob, followed by the knob, wavy washer and handle.

There just wasn't enough tension on the wavy washer to hold the knob in place and I had a spring on-hand.