Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Looks like Nevr-Dull does a good job. 👍

Quote from: foakes on Today at 07:44:24 PM😄😄😄

Sounds like you have it all figured out, SM —-

Best, Fred

🤣🤣🤣

FYI, Fred, I am, and have, living proof that skirted graphite spools will also crack and break from full spooled mono pressure. I have 3 that came with ABU Cardinal 50 & 150 and Zebco Cardinal 550 series reels I purchased online a few years back.

Got all the small internal and external parts shined up.
 I will hit them with compressed air before oiling or reassembly.

 😄😄😄

Sounds like you have it all figured out, SM —-

Best, Fred

When I was growing up, Spiderwire and Fireline was already around, and fairly well known. Even still, when people said "fishing line", you could with relative certainty be sure they were talking about a nylon monofilament. This is nothing against you Foakes, but when I see pictures of spools that apparently were broken by regular old fishing line, I don't think fishing line on a fishing reel is the problem. I think those spools are junk. Call me a heretic if you will, plastic is plastic. It's cost cutting junk today, and it was space age junk back then. At least they made the 710 spool beefy enough to handle fishing line. So do whatever you want for your collections, but I maintain that any reel damaged by fishing line is not something you should be fishing with unless you are a collector. Nylon monofilament is the best backing you can use for a fishing reel today, and I'm not messing with spacers or wraps, or anything else to bandaid a poor design.

P.S. I have never used any kind of machine to spool my reels. I stick a spring and washer on a screwdriver, stick that through a spool of line followed by another washer, then stick that in a bench vice. I adjust that spring tension as I see fit. I don't use a ton of pressure, just what feel like reeling in a lure.

Randy I'm kinda interested in that international 6

Show the problem some love and it will love you back. Patience is a virtue.

Blowing out spools is not exactly what keeps nylon from slipping.  But agree that it does demonstrate that nylon is applying more force to the spool surfaces than PE braid.  So that is one of the things (among several) that is different.

Here's a hint: The reason that this force from the mono trying to expand matters in preventing slippage is that force pressing two surfaces together is one of the variables for computing sliding friction (the amount of force it takes to cause sliding). The surface area does not affect frictional force, but the effect of multiple frictional  surfaces is cumulative (this is how a drag stack works).

If we want less slippage, we want some combination of more force pressing the line against the spool surfaces, more friction surfaces, and/or increased coefficient of friction.


The easy way out is to bump up the COF on a smooth arbor by applying some flex tape.

-J

You guys called it! Thanks! No wavy washer came with the reel. Handle contacts Knurled knob directly. Not good.

Funny but it doesn't appear to have been taken apart before. Maybe I lost it myself during service? Time to crawl around with a flashlight under the table?

Fred, I PMed you a parts order last week while you were away. I'll have to add one wavy washer to that tally.

Thinking it through in an armchair, 440N in hand, rather than on the river bank. I think my bail collision issue might have been caused by the loose handle.

Yeah, the other reel I've been fishing is a 285. Typo above. Man, this thing is rock solid and a beautiful chunk of German handiwork. As an old radio guy, black wrinkle paint is a sign of quality and seriousness of purpose to me!  Heavy sucker though. Loudest anti reverse clack on the planet.  I think I might ultimately prefer a 330N or 3002 in my repair queue for fishing with lightweight  modern rods but this Finessa is a fun old school reel to fish with and I can't stop looking at it and playing with it. A very satisfying piece of machinery.

Need a left crank oscillation arm for the 3002 then I have no doubt that will be an outstanding fishing machine also!

Some good information in your observations, SM —-

Thanks!

I, too, use primarily Berkley Trilene mono.  Get it in 3 & 5 pound supply spools.  4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, 25, 30, & 40 pound.

Here is my take, after working on tens of thousands of quality brand spinning reels over the past 40+ years —- from all parts of the world —- but mostly North America.

Issues & Observations —-

Hard plastic spools do break when Mono is improperly installed or stored on reels —- heat, cold, storage, it is common.

Penn 710/711 plastic spools never break.  They are a different type of plastic that has a little "give", and do not break.

The spools that most often break are the hard plastic ones on Cardinal 4's, DQ 220/221's, some 330/331's, some 110's and 110N's, rarely on some Cardinal 3's —- but I have a few examples.

Metal aluminum spools nearly never, ever break with mono —- at least I have never seen it in over 40 years.

Use a spacer or flex wrap. 

Change and discard your line every year or two.  Line is cheap compared to your other equipment, the possibility of a large fish, your fishing license, fuel, and your opportunity to have a successful fishing trip.

I know for a fact, that most mono is applied to a plastic spool way too tightly.  The guy at the store where the reel was purchased used a powered line metering machine —- and was proud of how quickly and tightly he could install 200 yards of line on a plastic spinning reel spool.  Recipe for disaster down the road (3-6 years).  Because the average angler never completely "spools" his spinning reel line.  So it stays too much on the bottom half —- and way too tight.

Remedies —-

Use some sort of spacer or flex backer on the bottom 1/3 when spooling your spinning reel.

Always spool a spinning reel spool by hand —- not a machine.  I have (4) line metering machines —- but they are never used on spinning reels —- even though (2) of them are specifically for spinning reels.  Use a loose rod bottom half with just slight finger back pressure.

Use metal aluminum spools when possible.

Treat yourself to fresh line every couple of years.

I have maybe 2500 to 3000 loose spinning spools.  Only the used ones with mono on them crack.  So without line —- they do not crack.

As said, aluminum spools do not crack.  Also, skirted graphite or aluminum spools do not crack.  A graphite spool will crack, if dropped on its top.
 
Thanks again, good info, SM.

Best, Fred

Been working on polishing up the brightwork on the Altex. There is a bunch!

After polishing, I am 100% sure my no.1 was leaded and not painted. The residual " color", I was seeing was decades worth of grime and oxidation.
I took some Nevr Dull magic polishing wadding and gave the body parts a good shine. This is a gauze type wadding impregnated with polishing compound. You cut pieces off according to job. Polish item vigorously with it until black residue forms and then wipe clean with cloth. I use a large piece of elk hide, as the suede makes a killer buff/ shine. Use the wadding until blackened, then cut new piece.
All this is done by hand. No Dremels, drills, buffers, etc. I like to feel and hold the items Im working on. When you take the time to appreciate these works of art down deep, you see things like original tooling marks and such, you may not see as a casual observer. Plus, I feel like I'm in Edward Broadfoot's shoes for a moment.
I will be moving onto the small parts next. Lots of brass and aluminum to shine!

Peace!