Quote from: Gfish on May 02, 2024, 07:19:41 PMSoooo, the take-away for me is 1) don't let someone else tie the line to spool knot, nor should I trust the "shop" to wind it right, much like I don't trust mechanics and have to inspect everything they do that I can see. Use a self tightening knot, faced the right way. Maybe de-line it more than I wanna and check or re-do the knot and lower coil tightness.I would watch him do some one else reel and watch for the details . Than you can decide is he your guy or turn and walk away.
Guy did my timing belt(including pulleys, hoses, radiator fluid, water pump and thermostat), but he didn't use what I expected him to with the fluid I bought. Overheating light came on a week latter. He didn't TAKE THE TIME to "burp" the cooling system, and over the next 3 days, I added about a gallon.
Difficult to tell if lug nuts are tight once the vehicle is off the lift/jack. The weight of the vehicle might put pressure on the wheels/loose nuts making them seem tight.
Guy in the 1st video complained about braid wrapping on the rod tip. One has to untwist about 100' of braid every couple of trips, especially if there's been any trolling.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on May 02, 2024, 06:26:38 PMSo I keep circling back mentally to the recent experience at the shop. Specifically that the person who was strongly in favor of mono backing to avoid slipping, tying an arbor knot with braid that ultimately failed completely. Not slipping on the spool, the tag end slipped thru and the knot was history. Complete failure.Sounds like a DIY project . Here just in case .https://www.animatedknots.com/fishing-knots#ScrollPoint
I've been beating around the bush here because I hate insulting anyone. The point I'm circling around is that he felt that mono was necessary to prevent slipping, because he might not be that good at tying knots in general.
Quote from: jurelometer on May 02, 2024, 05:55:19 PMThanks Joe for the thoughtful reply. I think I better understand where you are going with this.
I am going to answer line by line again . I think it will help grasp what I am trying to convey for those who read this . You don`t have to take my word as the Gospel Truth , all you have to do is test it for your self . Since this is theory , there is no stupid questions ,so please ask them . We all learn from them .
I think that following observation is useful for a successful arbor knot:
Answer Back a page or two I left what appears as a telephone number ,it`s in two places ,it is the answer on how to view a knot. Yes you can use your phone keypad for the answer . Get the bolt or smooth rod and 2 foot of string ready so you can prove to yourself some theory can be changed to fact.
If you tie the arbor knot to tighten as you wind, the line tension increases the grip on the arbor.
Answer yes again detail knot direction .
BUT... with a fuller spool, the friction between all the wraps prevents any pulling load from reaching the arbor. And since braid has very little stretch compared to nylon, once the spool is filled, there is little residual tension in the line to pull on the knot
Answer So what was the target drag to start to spool with ? For easy math let`s say 100 pound braid , 25-50 -75 pounds drag?
So the arbor knot just sits there, probably a bit less tight then when we started and not getting any tighter when we pull line from the filled spool.
Answer why would it be less ,it`s target drag from the fill spool. Detail The first layer goes side by side tight from end to end .
Now the effect of pulling on the line is more like gripping the arbor knot and its coils with a pair of channel locks and turning the whole tie off around the arbor.
The trick that seems to works for me is wrapping over the tag end as Jerry Brown recommended, and is shown in the video below.
Not exactly certain as to why it might work, but I think that the compressive load from the fill presses the tag against the arbor at many points along the axis instead of around the axis. The knot cannot rotate without taking the sideways tag with it.
Answer I disagree with the start of line going over the arbor. The ones who are testing with the bolt and string can test this also. The tag end is the band aid ,like a strip of tape . Why cut the tag so short, come back to the knot 180 degrees 2 strip band aid . He needed to rap most /all of the arbor first to do a pull test.
If he did two wraps and pulled , Ops .
My theory was that the specific knot is not as important as wrapping over the tag properly. But to be honest, I haven't done any rigorous testing to prove that the tag (or knot) is the key vs just doing a better job on the spool fill. I tried it all together. Too much work to do a bunch of spool fills to prove a theory. Answer We can bust the myth , we can scale back the size of the reel and spool and put the heat to it . I have a couple OC 112 for test mules .
-J
Quote from: foakes on May 02, 2024, 05:41:26 PMHere is the screw for that 2052, Steve —-
Along with a bail spring.
This is basic reel repair 101 —- errors that most of us have done at one time, or another.
We figure since the reel is cruddy inside —- that the 5/16" hex head steel screw is just stuck to the bronze main gear.
So we force it since we have it in a socket or a nut driver —- not realizing until too late that it goes on counter-clockwise and comes off clockwise.
Screw snaps off in the main.
When disassembling vintage reels —- always be aware of this possibility of a reverse-threaded keeper screw.
Tread carefully, because these are not easy parts to find anywhere, for any price — without some effort, and luck, and waiting.
Send me your address, and I will send it out tomorrow. N/C.
Best, Fred
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