Post questions about this reel in this thread
I know this is an old thread but just got a pretty rough looking 2/0 off of eBay. Didn't plan on buying what I have but after upgrading my 114h I wanna get one of each Senator and maybe a few other older penn conventional reels. Anyhow, here is a pic. Not even sure if it was worth what I paid but it supposedly functions. I could not see numbered parts in the other pics but they are not of good quality. If the parts are not numbered does that mean it's a pre-1950 reel as is the case with the 209 and the 66 I posted about?
That looks like a first generation 2/0....It might cost you the same $$ to replace the corroded posts, but I would buy that all day long.....good score brother....Bill
Thanks. I figure if I have to replace some metal so be it. I have a bid on a 1/0 for a low price. But there is like 5 days or something left.
Quote from: TARFU on June 01, 2017, 12:41:17 AM
That looks like a first generation 2/0....It might cost you the same $$ to replace the corroded posts, but I would buy that all day long.....good score brother....Bill
The smaller Senators did not follow the first generation/second generation rule; I believe they were all made in what we refer to as "first generation" from the beginning. It is my assumption that as Otto Henze made larger and larger Senators he got to the 16/0 size with a "first generation" build and decided the crank was too far away from the angler to be efficient; and thus the "second generation" Penn Senator was born..... with the crank in the 7 o'clock position, closer to the angler - but only the larger sizes needed to be changed to become more efficient/easier to crank against significant drag for an extended period. I can't prove it, but it seems logical.
Sid
Troutman, soak that reel in 50:50 vinegar:water overnight and it'll clean up really nicely with just a little polish.
Sid
Quote from: sdlehr on June 01, 2017, 01:19:41 AM
Troutman, soak that reel in 50:50 vinegar:water overnight and it'll clean up really nicely with just a little polish.
Sid
That's what did with Mitchell 4/0 and it worked well. Hopefully this one will clean up as good. What about baking soda and vinegar? I read about some people doing that on here as well.
Quote from: troutman561 on June 01, 2017, 01:48:36 AMWhat about baking soda and vinegar? I read about some people doing that on here as well.
The active component of vinegar, the part that makes it work, is acetic acid. The active part of baking soda is bicarbonate, a base. When you mix an acid and a base you get a salt and water. It makes no sense to mix the two and expect the resulting mixture to do anything of benefit; the two neutralize each other. Better to dilute the vinegar 50:50 with water if you're worried it's too strong (it isn't).
Sid
So you're saying soaking in salt water won't help with corrosion :D? Ha, it's only been 11 years since I took chemistry but I guess not recent enough to apply that knowledge!! I'm definitely not worried about it being too strong as I've seen how well the 50/50 does. Ill post progress once I get it. Thanks for the help!
Sid's right...the baking soda is used to neutralize the vinegar. Vinegar not neutralized has the ability to "over clean" the parts...kinda like cleaning holes in them...HA! Of coarse a water rinse will work fine to stop vinegar's action, but I like the cleaning effect of the baking soda. I also like to scrub the parts with a toothbrush after adding the baking soda, that cleans the parts as they are neutralized. Hey...here's another tip...I've been cleaning the screws really easily by soaking in vinegar for a while and then dumping the baking soda on them. Swirl the dish around...and as the baking soda pops and bubbles it seems to really clean the screws good. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on June 01, 2017, 01:57:15 PM
Sid's right...the baking soda is used to neutralize the vinegar. Vinegar not neutralized has the ability to "over clean" the parts...kinda like cleaning holes in them...HA! Of coarse a water rinse will work fine to stop vinegar's action, but I like the cleaning effect of the baking soda. I also like to scrub the parts with a toothbrush after adding the baking soda, that cleans the parts as they are neutralized. Hey...here's another tip...I've been cleaning the screws really easily by soaking in vinegar for a while and then dumping the baking soda on them. Swirl the dish around...and as the baking soda pops and bubbles it seems to really clean the screws good. 8)
This might be a stupid thought but what about the vinegar/baking soda bubbling action in a ultrasonic cleaner. May either be super effective or quite messy.
Quote from: troutman561 on June 01, 2017, 02:13:10 PM
This might be a stupid thought but what about the vinegar/baking soda bubbling action in a ultrasonic cleaner. May either be super effective or quite messy.
I don't know anything about ultrasonic cleaners...I do all my cleaning with brushes...by hand.
The bubbling only lasts a few seconds, so I doubt it would be worth pursuing.
Ultrasonic cleaners work by vibrating at ultrasonic frequencies which causes micro bubbles to form on all surfaces. The expansion and contraction of these micro bubbles is what cleans everything so well; everything that is wet gets cleaned. I see no real advantage to using the two simultaneously, but in succession they can be quite effective.
Sid
I'll just stick to tried and true 50/50 mix. I'll have plenty to experiment on tho. Have a bid out on a 1/0 and a 3/0.
Are there any frames or bars to upgrade this reel with? I just picked one up and I want to spice it up a little. Thanks.
Quote from: rippin_lips on July 06, 2017, 02:32:18 PM
Are there any frames or bars to upgrade this reel with? I just picked one up and I want to spice it up a little. Thanks.
I don't think so...
Actually, with the (6) posts and (6) screws in the stand -- for a total of 18 frame screws -- these are pretty capable little reels as is.
Best,
Fred
Fred's right, the extra posts and 6 screw stand make this reel a candidate for a little more muscle under the hood. The #5-66 main gear allows room for a 5-stack drag, and a steel gear sleeve would be a nice addition too. 8)
Thanks Mo, for your comments, what percentage of baking soda to water, do you recommend, thanks, cheers Don.
Quote from: Donnyboat on July 07, 2017, 12:04:46 AM
Thanks Mo, for your comments, what percentage of baking soda to water, do you recommend, thanks, cheers Don.
Actually Don, I like to just dump straight baking soda on the parts
before the rinse. Put the vinegar soaked parts and a splash of the vinegar in a bowl. Then dump on the baking soda. As it bubbles and pops brush the parts, then rinse with clean water. The parts will be clean and neutralized...no more green. 8)
good to hear that these reels should be good without the addition of a frame. I'm cleaning up everything now and deciding on the path forward. I will definitely get the drag washers updated, it needs a better handle, and possibly add a stainless sleeve. Are there aluminum spools available for these?
yes from 285 Delmar.
It seems Tiburon made a few hundred 2/0 frames some time ago - it was discussed here http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12543.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12543.0)
The thread raised some discussion about the need to improve on the std 2/0 post and stand frame given the reels limitations.
Mike
Question.....did the 2/0 come with both scalloped and slotted screws for the free spool lever? Bill
Quote from: Bill B (Tarfu) on February 03, 2018, 08:17:38 PM
Question.....did the 2/0 come with both scalloped and slotted screws for the free spool lever? Bill
Yes Bill, the 2/0 and 3/0 had both types of hardware for the shift lever
Ted
There is a seller on flee bay who has stainless cross bars. Cheaper than factory and will not corrode. Mc Master has the SS 5-40 filister head screws.