Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I know 99% of you guys don't need bolt cutters when you go fishing.
With the big hooks I use, sometimes it is a necessity when a hook becomes lodged in a Sharks Jawbone and the only way to remove it, is to cut it off and pull the barb out, so he can live another day.
I always have used just a cheap set from Harbor freight. 18" so they will fit in my tackle bag.
I have cut off locks and Mustad 20/0's in the past like they were butter.
This past trip, I had a Gamakatsu 14/0 that could not be cut.
I couldn't believe it, The cutters wouldn't even scratch it, no matter how hard I tried.
I upgraded to these HK Porter power link cutters.
Hopefully they will get the job done next time.
They are rated to cut anything up to Rockwell 48 hardness.
$40 at Tractor supply.
I don't know a lot about the HRC scale, but 58 HRC is used for a high quality sword.
I can go with a bolt cutter that packs 4000 lbs of force at the jaws with 50 applied to the handles, but they are 30" long and weigh 12lbs.
I don't know how hard that hook was, but it was beyond the capability of the harbor freight cutter.
I inspected it closely and there are no marks or dents on the jaws, but I think I tweaked one of the handles. ???

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Looks to me like you're going into breaking and entering buddy :)

Mike.

Just into a Shark's Mouth. ;)

That's a Heckuva hook if you bent the handle. You arent exactly a hobbit.

the new one looks pretty HD

you shouldnt have more problems

"Honest officer I have that bolt cutter to cut fish hooks....really." :D ;D :D ;D Dominick

We ran into this problem with our observers, the smaller bolt cutters are inadequate for many of today's modern, heavy/commercial hooks.  Thankfully the boats have good bolt cutters onboard.  

The PIFSC shark project has a grad student starting a long term hook degradation study.  I suspect these heavy duty hooks take much longer to rust out, then what is commonly believed to be the case.  Also, not all hooks are created equal in this regard.

It may be quite some time before he has any meaningful results to share.

The post-release survivability study on long line caught sharks is showing much better survivability, then suspected though, so what do I know?

John

We keep the 18" size on the boat for hooks in people. If you ice down the body part until its numb you wont feel a thing :o

Just to put into perspective why I couldn't cut this hook.
It was a 14/0 Gamakatsu Tuna Hook. It has a weird bend, but it is deadly.
It looks like its made from some kind of alloy. Very Hard, Forged, Very saltwater resistant and almost squared at certain points.
I only have two of these left and can't find any more on this planet. (it is the one rigged with the quarter in the middle)
I think what makes it so effective is the wide gap. On a sliding trace rig, there is no getting away.
If anyone knows where I can get some more of these, I would be very happy.
The one directly right will be its replacement. They are expensive, but available. The owner 16/0 Grander.
It has a more recognizable bend and is super sharp.
Very right is the 24/0 from Catch all. Very impressive hook, and priced right. I am certain my 18" cutters will take this out with ease as with the 20/0 Mustad on the bottom right.
The one left of the Mustad is a Lingred pitman offset 20/0 stainless. This hook even scares me. :o
My Buddy Bill sent me a few of these and I will upgrade to the 4000lb force 30" cutters if I ever use these.
The barb is very aggressive and the squared off bottom portion is very thick.
Sorry for being so long winded, but I have started collecting hooks, Big Ones that are very effective.
I now have a separate bag I bring on my trips, that has nothing but hooks and rigging materials. It weighs at least 20 lbs. ::)

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This guy uses a Kniplex(sp) cutter on #27 wire and it cuts like going thru butter. May cut some larger Gamakatsu hooks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zssOmc8QRW8

Daron,
Those L.P. hooks are tough!

The swordfishermen use that hook in an 18/0 size.  The tuna boats use them in 14/0-16/0 sizes.  They take a lot to bend, break, or cut them, but it dies happen.  I have a collection at work of this style hook that has broken on a shark, fish, or whale with hydraulic gear.  The newer hook requirements on US Pacific longliners call for 'weak hooks', those with diameters less then 4.5mm are said to bend open, or break at pressures less then 500lbs.  The theory is that if all of the other gear is stronger,  when a whale is hooked, the line can be affixed to the vessel, and the animal will release itself with no gear remaining by having the hook fail.  400-500lbs is still a lot of pressure, and in practice sometimes crimps, or chaffed mono fail before the hook.  Also, the hook can sometimes fail on a large marketable fish.  I think most of the bent hooks that are observed following a soak, are likely due to a very large shark (like 800lb+ makos).  Still bending, breaking, or shearing these hooks is very difficult, and rarely observed.  I suspect they also take along time to corrode or degrade, even when immersed in saltwater.  

I have noticed there seem to be 2 different manufacturing processes at work, and at least 2 distinct types of metal used.  The ones with the flat sections appear to be stamped/forged, while the totally round ones seem to be bent to shape.  There is a darker/harder metal with sharper points, and a lighter colored, softer metal that can be more readily sharpened by hand.  The softer hooks tend to bend rather then break.  These large commercial hooks are typically not galvanized, or surface treated.  They make them also ringed, or not ringed.  The photos and hooks I have examined, show more bent hooks of the nonringed, round, lighter colored variety, while the darker, flat, hooks tend to break, but may bend a little first.  The ringed hooks don't seem to fail at the same rate as infringed.  Mind you this is only a few dozen failures (I have seen) from thousands and thousands of observed hooks over the years.

I do really like thst modified circle hook shape of the Gamakatsu Tuna.  These will be my tuna hooks (though of a smaller variety).

 

Good to see you old friend. ;)
He looks like he is good at his craft, but I don't think any tool on that table will cut a hardened 14/0 Gama hook.
I bent the handle on a pair of 18" bolt cutters.
I am going to stop procrastinating and get the 30" cutters with Molybdenum jaws. They make High end gun barrels out of this material.
They are affordable and I know will cut any hook I have. They are just heavy.
Don't be such a stranger melkapule. It is nice to see you again, ;)
Daron

Cool video.  That is pretty stout wire, and we have cutters like thst, but they don't work on the heavy duty hooks.  They would be a very handy tool to have though, and would make quick work of most hooks.

I just remembered that I do have a video we made of me using a bolt cutters on an L.P. hook.  It is pretty explosive when it finally breaks.  I will link it once the coms staff releases it, and uploads it to the noaa site, if I remember.

The Gama hooks are still readily available with that bend John. They are just expensive.
I found a 13/0 on ebay. It was $17 for one hook.
The grander owners are about $12.50 each.
Any cheaper steel variety's of the Pitmans or Mustads can be had for less than $2 each.
As hard as I try to accomplish my mission these past few years, I'm not skimping on tackle.
On the heavier hooks, I'm running tooth proof #22 wire. (Also not available anymore)
With heavy cable as a sliding trace, usually 480lb. 20' of each.
My leader is 40' long.
That little black tip Robin caught on my last trip, tried to roll up on every inch of it. That very same set up.
He didn't stand a chance.
I look forward to that Video.

Daron - I borrowed a pair of these Knipex bolt cutters a couple of weeks ago:

http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1367&groupID=2430

I was cutting some 4mm piano wire and my bolt cutter wouldn't touch it. My friend assured me they would work - he was right, they cut the wire quite comfortably :)
I then tried a 6mm stainless bolt - both hands were needed but it still cut through it. Very impressive for compact cutters.

Quote from: Tightlines666 on October 04, 2017, 06:11:29 AM
Daron,
Those L.P. hooks are tough!

The swordfishermen use that hook in an 18/0 size.  



 

We use 16/0 and 20/0 Mustad C hooks for Pacific halibut and I have seen photos of one through a friends arm.

Those knipex cutters look like a good tool. I have a smaller set, They are in the first picture with the baseball on top of them that the kids left in my yard, but you have to be careful around a Shark's mouth. 8" is too close for me.

They also do longer ones

https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1367&groupID=1474

Now if you are looking to cut one of these  ;D

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mustad+31/0+hook&tbm=isch&source=iu&pf=m&ictx=1&fir=vy8p2KWChq202M%253A%252COECi0TPm8_pbjM%252C_&usg=__Y1ymwAysItVYYQCsToB1y6pzo-I%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2ud_rlNfWAhVCrRoKHUA5BRUQ9QEILzAA#imgrc=vy8p2KWChq202M:

Just testing - I've been playing with Imgur for photos:

I have the Knipex cutters too. They are the best. All of their tools are good but costly. I broke the small ones last year not by using them but by dropping them.

   I have quite a few Knipex tools, and I can say that they hold up well in industrial applications...heavy use, neglect, abuse, whatever. I carry an 8" set in my tackle....more for" people de-hooking", than "fish de-hooking", and haven't had to use them yet...thankfully ! I do have a larger set of H-P in my truck toolbox.....and, If I ever DO hook a shark ...even a small one....staying as far from his business end as possible will be a priority, on my part !

Hey Sharkee! ;)     Just kiddin,  why not have an inverter powered plasma cutter on your beach strolls,  they will cut just about all metals and not harm the sharks teeth????? ???    Serious!!!

I think I'll pass on that Gary. ;)
Using a Plasma Cutter standing in salt water is a bad idea.
I bought another one that has Chrome Moly Jaws and 4000lbs of cutting power.
They are called bolt cutters, but they really just crush what you are trying to cut through.
I won't have to worry about it anymore.
I figure I can put them in a folding chair bag with a shoulder strap and be done with it.
Another 12 pounds to carry to the beach. ::)

As an underground cable splicer, we used a ratcheting cable cutter. Large two handed ones, and small one handed ones. Closed like handcuffs. About the size of the Knipex though the ratcheting mechanism was large. Those would be ideal if they could cut hooks. I could not find any online other than ones that cut copper or aluminum. Still, there may be something out there.

I liked the Knipex cutters so much I bought one - the 10" model

https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1367&groupID=2430&artID=34798

As has already been said they aren't cheap but they are top quality.

I have been looking for a ratcheting cutter they are out there- this one looked promising - but like some others (I've seen) I don't know how well it would work with hard alloys like piano wire:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/ratcheting/heavy-duty-ratcheting-bolt-cutter
The cost is another factor :(

The various manufacturers only tend to quote cutting capacity up to Rockwell HRC40-45 (hard rebar?). I don't think that would cope with some of the harder alloys.
Knipex make a non-ratchet long handled cutter that will cope with HRC48. Their compact cutters cope with a bit more but not the thickness.
On balance I think I will go the same route as Daron - 24-30" standard bolt cutters, probably one of the Knipex big boys

Hey guys.i had same problem.the cheap cutters would cutt 16\0 mustad circles no problem but 13\0  high carbon eagle claws no way.got a pair of H.I.T bolt cutters withhardened jaws 450mm long and happy days.

When my new cutters come in, I'll make a Video of cutting one of those Stainless LP Circles.
If they can cut those, I will be impressed.
I'm pretty sure two tons of pressure from Chrome Moly Jaws will get it done.

   Well, just make sure to "secure" both pieces of the hook before you cut it.....bolt heads, etc. will fly like bullets when they are cut off....I have a "fake tooth" in front from just such an "incident"! The "harder" the steel...the more pressure it takes, and , the more pressure...the farther,..and faster...the chunks will fly !

I'm going to crimp both ends with 480lb cable and secure with deck screws on the other end.

Most muskie guys use Knipex cutters. They really do work fantastic and hold up. Up here they sell them at Lowes in the electrical section for some reason and not in the tools with the other cutters.

I broke my knipex bolt cutters on a 10/0 circle hook. The blades chipped! But it did cut the hook which took a lot of force.
I forgot what brand hook it was, wish I remembered. I won't try that again.
Took it to Sears and got a replacement though. It's a good set of cutters.

I think these will suffice. This is the hook in Question.
I'm not going to cut it unless I have to, These are very hard to find.
These Cutters are a brand called Neiko. Chrome Moly Jaws and only $29 bucks shipped.
They have great reviews. My hook cutting woes will be over now.
Klein is supposedly the best, but they are still made overseas and cost 5 times as much.
Its hard to find tools that really made in the US.
No one else makes a set of cutters with chrome moly jaws that I could find.
Almost all are just heat treated steel.

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Wow....whats the weight on that set.....Bill

12 lbs or so.