This SS jack for 4/0 is available in my online store (https://squareup.com/store/pro-challenger-llc (https://squareup.com/store/pro-challenger-llc)).
This will fits all versions 113, 267, 268 and all US113 versions.
It is $7.99 each + $1.50each shipping.
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a494/prochallenger/a25e649d-48e2-4472-90a0-909ba688d9e0_zpsf7iiwvvh.jpg)
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a494/prochallenger/38eafc28-8ca3-4d86-b1b4-051e80caa6dc_zpscnbkpotr.jpg)
Alan, why do some of your gear sets come from the start with SS eccentric jack and pinion yoke, others do not. Do all models not wear parts similarly?
Thanks.
Sid
Quote from: sdlehr on March 13, 2016, 02:45:24 PM
Alan, why do some of your gear sets come from the start with SS eccentric jack and pinion yolk, others do not. Do all models not wear parts similarly?
Thanks.
Sid
Hi Sid,
That is a good question. I can tell you the reason behind it. I have told this to Sal for a long time. On the JigMaster gear set, it has the SS gear set, yoke and jack. The 113H has the gear set and the jack (in about 1 & 1/2 month). The reason I did not make the 113H SS yoke because SmoothDrag have made 113H SS yoke for awhile. I don't want to put Dawn on that situation and make that SS yoke. Eventually, I will just buy the 113H yoke from Dawn.
Thanks,
--Alan
He really is a considerate benefactor, and a great host.
Lots of good guys here.
Here is a few samples of this jack for Sal to test.
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a494/prochallenger/E1060DB4-349E-420C-966B-1A0283C6AB92_zps3usndf9u.jpg)
Looking at the design of both these SS as well as the brass, I've been wondering for awhile now how the tabs are formed. Is the metal part of the tabs just a hair thinner than the rest of the jack because they appear to be pressed out to have a longer length after than they had when it was a flat jack. Anyone know how this is done?
Sid
Metal thickness is consistent before stamping, the die stretches the tabs a bit. They are stamped out with a die punch and then the tabs pressed in, either with another tool or the stamping die, most likely separate operations.
Thanks Lee. I figured you would be the one answering, I almost requested your attention :) Does this pressing happen at room temperature or do you have to get the metal hot and a little softer? I've never done any metal work...
Sid
Sid,
I use to do a bit of stamping in my younger years. I imagine this is a complex die to produce this jack so I won't go into all of it but it is likely done with one or possibly two strokes depending on how complex the tooling is. Stainless can be beastly on punch and dies as it is very tough and 'sticky'. Stainless tends to wear, gall, and dull tooling. Correct alloys, tolerances and lubes help to extend tooling life. The lugs in particular are accomplished by what is called a 'lance and form' operation. The tolerances are tight on the sides so that the punch will shear the edges but the ends are radiused and relieved so that the ends won't shear. The bottoming die (usually cut on an EDM) has the contour of the humps so that the punch pushes the material into the shape of the die. There are other things going such as the punched part is sandwiched tightly between two pieces of the tooling so that the part won't deform and there will typically be some sort of heavy stripper springs that keep the part from sticking to the tooling.
-Mike
Thanks Mike. I understood enough of what you wrote to have it mostly figured out. A lot of heavy, loud machines with sharp edges at work....
Sid
Quote from: sdlehr on April 20, 2016, 01:34:33 PM
Thanks Lee. I figured you would be the one answering, I almost requested your attention :) Does this pressing happen at room temperature or do you have to get the metal hot and a little softer? I've never done any metal work...
Sid
And I have only spayed a few cats.... and have scars to prove it ;D Actually they were lambs.
It is done at ambient temperature. The machinery to do the stamping is large and strong, if I had a working digital camera I would post a photo of the punch press that is taking up room in my shop. I will try to borrow a camera today.
Quote from: Keta on April 20, 2016, 04:10:04 PM
Actually they were lambs.
Actually I'd easier believe you were castrating males, not spaying females. I don't think anyone does the latter.... I castrated a Greyhound this morning.... anyone else care to share their morning? :)
Sid
You must run fast.
Here's my punch press,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/14/1583_20_04_16_4_12_38.jpeg)
Lee,
Thanks for sharing that. It made me smile. You don't see those in use much anymore. My company went to hydraulic and they are slow but they are easier on tooling. I could triple production with a good C-frame. How many tons is yours?
-Mike
No idea, I will check the rating plate in the morning. Kachunk, kachunk!
Quote from: Keta on April 20, 2016, 11:14:29 PM
You must run fast.
;D ;D ;D Greyhounds are sprinters. They have to slow down sometime....
Quote from: sdlehr on April 20, 2016, 11:27:57 PM
Quote from: Keta on April 20, 2016, 11:14:29 PM
You must run fast.
;D ;D ;D Greyhounds are sprinters. They have to slow down sometime....
:D And sheep have handles. Best day of my life was when the last pasture maggot got loaded into the trailer.
This SS jack for 4/0 is available in my online store (https://squareup.com/store/pro-challenger-llc (https://squareup.com/store/pro-challenger-llc)).
This will fits all versions 113, 267, 268 and all US113 versions.
It is $7.99 each + $1.50each shipping.
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a494/prochallenger/a25e649d-48e2-4472-90a0-909ba688d9e0_zpsf7iiwvvh.jpg)
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a494/prochallenger/38eafc28-8ca3-4d86-b1b4-051e80caa6dc_zpscnbkpotr.jpg)
Quote from: Black Pearl on March 13, 2016, 03:38:22 PM
Quote from: sdlehr on March 13, 2016, 02:45:24 PM
Alan, why do some of your gear sets come from the start with SS eccentric jack and pinion yolk, others do not. Do all models not wear parts similarly?
Thanks.
Sid
Hi Sid,
That is a good question. I can tell you the reason behind it. I have told this to Sal for a long time. On the JigMaster gear set, it has the SS gear set, yoke and jack. The 113H has the gear set and the jack (in about 1 & 1/2 month). The reason I did not make the 113H SS yoke because SmoothDrag have made 113H SS yoke for awhile. I don't want to put Dawn on that situation and make that SS yoke. Eventually, I will just buy the 113H yoke from Dawn.
Thanks,
--Alan
This is interesting, I'll tell you a little about a problem I just discovered. I have a Standard 113h reel with a SS yoke from smooth drag in it, it also has a set of Accurate 4-1 gears in it, what I noticed when playing with it was that the reel didn''t want to come out of gear real easy, I had to play with it & this was or is a intermittent problem. When I opened up the reel what I found where shiny spots on both sides of the yoke where the pinion gear was rubbing & wearing on it, I inspected the pinion gear it looked fine. There should be plenty of clearance as I measured the pinion gear slot & it measured .062 wide, The yoke measured .0475 thick. I did notice burrs around the holes where the screws go & .0005 variation in thickness in the surface of the yoke, also I noticed that the yoke has not been heat treated & the surface is soft. I'm considering going with either a set of your gears or Newell gears. Can you shed any light on this subject? Thanks Ed
Sounds like your issue is with the pinion, but could also be the spool shaft. Check the pinion by hand and see if it fits all the way up on the spool shaft, this is better then measuring. Also, make sure the spool shaft is nice and clean.
Quote from: Alto Mare on October 24, 2016, 10:07:18 PM
Sounds like your issue is with the pinion, but could also be the spool shaft. Check the pinion by hand and see if it fits all the way up on the spool shaft, this is better then measuring. Also, make sure the spool shaft is nice and clean.
Thank Sal for answering it. You beat me to it.
Tuns out it was the spool shaft, a little tiny burr up near the end where the pinion seats all the way down, the burr wouldn't let it go all the pinion go all the way down on the spool shaft. Now a question about the yokes, would you want a yoke that is harder or at least as hard as the pinion gear,that would prevent wear on the yoke itself,remember people had a problem with wearing out the brass yokes when Newell & Accurate gears 1st came out, I was really surprised to find out how soft my yoke was, I was able to take the high spots down with a India stone with no problems at all.
Quote from: eguinn on October 25, 2016, 01:20:26 AM
Tuns out it was the spool shaft, a little tiny burr up near the end where the pinion seats all the way down, the burr wouldn't let it go all the pinion go all the way down on the spool shaft. Now a question about the yokes, would you want a yoke that is harder or at least as hard as the pinion gear,that would prevent wear on the yoke itself,remember people had a problem with wearing out the brass yokes when Newell & Accurate gears 1st came out, I was really surprised to find out how soft my yoke was, I was able to take the high spots down with a India stone with no problems at all.
Since I don't make any 113H yoke, I get them from Smoooth Darg. They seem to be fine. Can you show me a picture of that yoke?
For some reason I seem to have a hell of a time trying to post pics on here, it's probably just me. I've already got the yoke put back in the reel. If you go on ebay & look under the Newell catagory, under bridge plates, look at the older P or Blackie Series style that has the pressed in type of pin for the yoke spring with a shoulder, not the kind that uses a E clip to hold the spring in place you will see a lot of their yokes with wear that looks like a groove or the beginning of a groove all the way around the opening where the gear rides. This was /is caused by the pinion gear rubbing on the yoke all the time. On mine it looked the same, there where scratch's on both sides of the yoke the surface where the pinion was rubbing, not super deep but you could feel them with your fingernail. I hope this gives you some idea of what was happening. For what it's worth I bought my yokes a couple of years ago from Smooth Drag so I don't know if anything has changed material wise, maybe the company that made them was using a softer grade of SS, maybe they have started to heat treat them or harden them. Like I said earlier I didn't have any trouble knocking dowm the high spots with a fine file & India Stone. The material used on this yoke was soft, nowhere nearly as hard as the pinion gear. I will tear the reel apart & email you some pics. I hope this helps you get a idea of what I found when I opened up my reel. Thanks ed