There are plenty of good inexpensive all metal bodied Daiwas out there on the big auction. These small to medium spinners seem to cast very well distance-wise for the diameter of their spools. This is one of the silver series with one ball bearing on the pinion.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_13_32.jpeg)
This one needed some work, it was reeling stiffly and needed some cleanup on the exterior, but I've seen much worse..
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_13_57.jpeg)
These are convertible from right-left to left-right retrieve.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_14_20.jpeg)
Nice sturdy aluminum spool.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_14_50.jpeg)
Most likely this is the first time this one had been serviced, it was a chore removing the side plate screws.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_15_13.jpeg)
As I expected, it was very dry of lube inside. Not too dirty, however.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_16_34.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_16_55.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_17_14.jpeg)
The drive gear has brass bushings on both sides, a plus. Some of the other C series have plastic bushings even though the schematics say metal.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_17_42.jpeg)
Removal of the set screw from the oscillating slider..........
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_18_05.jpeg)
..........allows the removal of the axle...........
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_18_24.jpeg)
..........which allows removal of the main gear.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_18_43.jpeg)
Again, it isn't too dirty inside underneath it all.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_19_08.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_19_30.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_19_53.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_20_11.jpeg)
The rotor is attached to the pinion with a regular right handed threaded 12 mm nut.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_20_32.jpeg)
Yes, there is a bearing under there and it's good to see there is no troublesome snap ring to remove.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_20_56.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_21_18.jpeg)
Good looking pinion and bearing. A couple of my other similar Daiwas didn't have bearings.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_21_42.jpeg)
No surprise here with the drag washers. For freshwater panfish and smallmouth fishing it will be ok stock.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_22_26.jpeg)
Parts weren't dirty enough to drag out the lacquer thinner. The gears and internal metal parts had a good shakedown bath in a half pint jelly jar of Simple Green. The inside of the housing was sprayed with PB Blaster and scrubbed with a toothbrush. The exterior was given a good scrubbing with orange scented citrus Purple Power cleaner. The bail worked fine so I left it assembled. Only thing tedious was reassembly of the anti-reverse spring, I have no idea how I got it right but it's working.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_23_03.jpeg)
These reels should last for many years with proper care. The only plastic parts are the handle knob, anti-reverse lever, and the drag knob. Line capacity is 270 yds 6 lb/200 yds 8 lb/125 yds 10 lb/100 yds 12 lb mono. IMHO, I'd never spool it with anything stronger than 8 lb mono, and 6 lb mono is ideal. It weighs 10.48 oz on my scales without line. I'm not sure how many models are in these C Silver Series, but nice specimens can be found for $15 or less shipped if you're patient.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_23_26.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/29/17863_25_09_19_12_23_53.jpeg)
Almost forgot the schematic.
Good write up !
I have two of these but in the larger 1600 size. I have used them for jacks in Mexico and they have worked really well. I cleaned them up like you did and upgraded the drag washers and filled with 30 lb braid. One day I landed well over a dozen jacks with one and it held up with no issues. Great well built reel.
Cheers:
Todd
Quote from: Hardy Boy on September 25, 2019, 08:54:19 PM
I have two of these but in the larger 1600 size. I have used them for jacks in Mexico and they have worked really well. I cleaned them up like you did and upgraded the drag washers and filled with 30 lb braid. One day I landed well over a dozen jacks with one and it held up with no issues. Great well built reel.
Cheers:
Todd
Todd, do these reels handle braid pretty well?
The two I have worked just fine with the braid. With the upgraded drag washers I can put out more drag than the rod can handle and its nice and smooth. The jacks gave it a serious work out and all was good. I don't think these reels get the respect they deserve, better than a lot of new "econo" reels out there and should be good for many more years or service.
todd
I have seen people replace the nylon or bronze drive bushings with a matching sized ball bearing. I can see it with the nylon bushings but I've never really seen any advantage to trading out the oilite bushings.
As usual, a good, readable review of this reel. Your's looks really good, post surgery. I'll have to keep my eyes open.
Thanks.
Frank
Nice job, Chester -- and good pics!
The silver and gold in these "C" series reels are very solid and capable.
At some point, you may decide to get all in these series. There are about 10 sizes starting with the little 500 size -- and going up to the 9000C.
The 500, 700, 1000, and Mini-Mites are kind of pricey -- however, the rest of this skirted spool series can be obtained pretty reasonably -- and they make a good arsenal.
Best,
Fred
Good job Chester, those C series reels seem like a good bang for the buck. 8)
I picked up a 1300c at an auction sale a couple years ago in a box of 4 reels i got for $5,it was the only one that needed more than cleaning and lube.The bronze bushing on the left where the handle was had so much wear that it had ruined the drive gear.The drive gear and pinion for these are not hard to find but the bushings were so i picked up another one on ebay for less than $10 shipped with the idea of making one out of two,before that one showed up i found bushings and ended up with 2 reels.They are quite a step up from the A-130rl with that c-clip holding in the pinion and rotor.
Quote from: festus on September 25, 2019, 08:23:26 PMI'm not sure how many models are in these C Silver Serie
500C, 700C, 1000C, 1300C, 1500C, 1600C, 2500C, 2600C, 4000C, 7000C, 9000C
In summon, 11 different models as mainbase.
Some of them wasnt sold everywhere (700C/1600C not in europe), japan has slighty different models (Sprinter Series), some countrys has black color export models (Canada with the E-Models) and there was also mixed types from the early 80s, as the main production goes to Bando in Korea (ST Series).
Here is just an example of the 1300 in different types.
(http://eimernase.de/vintage-reels/IMG_20181009_211312.jpg)
And here are the series, 10 models without the 700C. Few times later i got also the 700C and i complete this series without specials like pickup-versions etc.
(http://eimernase.de/vintage-reels/IMG_20171219_180637.jpg)
Nice collection !
Quote from: Midway Tommy on September 25, 2019, 11:50:26 PM
I have seen people replace the nylon or bronze drive bushings with a matching sized ball bearing. I can see it with the nylon bushings but I've never really seen any advantage to trading out the oilite bushings.
Replacing those bushings doesnt work with all models, most of those plasic or bronze bushings are very thin, so a ball bearing woulnt fit. The only way to fit them would be drilling out the hole in the body...but for what? The bushings are very good, in saltwater are the plastics better as any other (no corrosion), the bronze need just a bit more care.
People do that mainly with later models like the X-Series, Regal-D Series (in Europe is that a black X-Series called "Black Diamond") or other Series like RS/RB/RG/SK/AS/ etc.
Oh i forgot, you can do that also with some of the Bronze-Series at the Pinion bearing.
Some of those models can also easy improve to a silent anti reverse. ;)
last I looked, the big 9000,7000 were almost as sought after as the tiny 500,700
(for use -- not shelf-sitting)... the middle sizes can be very cheap
The small ones like 500C/700C, well, i dont really see here a reason to use them.
Maybe for ice fishing or for kids ;D, otherwise those little reels are more toys as tools.
Good ones are 1000C/1600C/2600C/4000C/7000C/9000C
All of them have a good excenter gear and AR-claw which is gear gently in front of the pinion, except the 1000C (same AR at the drive gear like the 1300/1500C)
The AR-ratchet of the biggest 3 are screwed together with the rotor, no fish will brake them.
The cheapest designed one is the 1500C, no ball bearing, pinion pressed in the rotor.
But ok, they will do also the job for a long time with some care.
All of those reels need a grease which is not too thin and fluid, any marine grease (as example from mercury) will do the job very well.
I would not recommend to swap out the teflon washers for carbon pieces, only for the 3 bigger ones if need a bit (the difference between teflon and carbon in those reels is very small) more brake power.
The teflon washers (from Dupont) are very good if cleaned, they can work forever without problems...just hold them dry.
Beware, in some of those models are also a gummed leather washer at the bottom of the stack.
I mostly like bigger ones, beginning with the 1600C. The 7000/9000C i use since few years for catfishing (best catch was 137lbs) and they will catch any big catfish without any problem.
The smaller ones like 1600/2600C i use mainly for eel/burbot fishing, very nice carefree fishing with them.
The 2500C & 2600C are in many things different, the 2500C have the ar-claw at the drive gear and a very big ballbearing at the pinion.
Spools of both are also not the same, the 2600C is slighty bigger, but both have a plastic inlay in the spool which is bad, because it reduce the possibly brake power.
The spools from other series like Apollo are interchangeable and dont have that crappy plastic inlay, the spool of the A250 or 250X should fit for the 2600C.
1600C/2600C can easy upgrade to a silence AR, you need just the ratchet & claw from the GS2/3/SS2000/3000 (all the same parts) and a 6,7mm drill. ;)
Quote from: Silvers on October 28, 2019, 10:08:40 AM
The small ones like 500C/700C, well, i dont really see here a reason to use them.
Maybe for ice fishing or for kids ;D, otherwise those little reels are more toys as tools.
Good ones are 1000C/1600C/2600C/4000C/7000C/9000C
All of them have a good excenter gear and AR-claw which is gear gently in front of the pinion.
The AR-ratchet of the biggest 3 are screwed together with the rotor, no fish will brake them.
The cheapest designed one is the 1500C, no ball bearing, pinion pressed in the rotor.
But ok, they will do also the job for a long time with some care.
All of those reels need a grease which is not too thin and fluid, any marine grease (as example from mercury) will do the job very well.
I would not recommend to swap out the teflon washers for carbon pieces, only for the 3 bigger ones if need a bit (the difference between teflon and carbon in those reels is very small) more brake power.
The teflon washers (from Dupont) are very good if cleaned, they can work forever without problems...just hold them dry.
Beware, in some of those models are also a gummed leather washer at the bottom of the stack.
I mostly like bigger ones, beginning with the 1600C. The 7000/9000C i use since few years for catfishing (best catch was 137lbs) and they will catch any big catfish without any problem.
The smaller ones like 1600/2600C i use mainly for eel/burbot fishing, very nice carefree fishing with them.
The 2500C & 2600C are in many things different, the 2500C have the ar-claw at the drive gear and a very big ballbearing at the pinion.
Spools of both are also not the same, the 2600C is slighty bigger, but both have a plastic inlay in the spool which is bad, because it reduce the possibly brake power.
The spools from other series like Apollo are interchangeable and dont have that crappy plastic inlay, the spool of the A250 or 250X should fit for the 2600C.
1600C/2600C can easy upgrade to a silence AR, you need just the ratchet & claw from the GS2/3/SS2000/3000 (all the same parts) and a 6,7mm drill. ;)
Thanks for all yhis useful inormation, Silvers, there are more C models on my wish list.
Quote from: Silvers on October 28, 2019, 10:08:40 AM
Good ones are 1000C/1600C/2600C/4000C/7000C/9000C
All of them have a good excenter gear and AR-claw which is gear gently in front of the pinion.
The AR-ratchet of the biggest 3 are screwed together with the rotor, no fish will brake them.
Just for information purposes, this needs a little correction. The 1000c has the post gear mesh AR dog just like the 1300c. Oddly enough, the tiny 500c and 700c have the forward mounted AR like the big models. Even more odd...that 500c appears to be the only model other than the 7000c and 9000c to use a spool sleeve! 8)
Quote from: mo65 on December 01, 2019, 03:55:56 PM
Quote from: Silvers on October 28, 2019, 10:08:40 AM
Good ones are 1000C/1600C/2600C/4000C/7000C/9000C
All of them have a good excenter gear and AR-claw which is gear gently in front of the pinion.
The AR-ratchet of the biggest 3 are screwed together with the rotor, no fish will brake them.
Just for information purposes, this needs a little correction. The 1000c has the post gear mesh AR dog just like the 1300c. Oddly enough, the tiny 500c and 700c have the forward mounted AR like the big models. Even more odd...that 500c appears to be the only model other than the 7000c and 9000c to use a spool sleeve! 8)
Correct, my fault...already modified it. ;)
I snagged a 1300c on the cheap, probably because it was a mess. I decided to test my skills. Lately I've been taking the easy way out...buying near mint reels...those kind you wipe off the fingerprints and photograph. Not this time, this thing was real work. The inside was worse than the outside. I think I passed the challenge. ;D
The first pic is what I started with...yikes! The second photo is the bearing. Did anyone else notice that the retainer is plastic on these? I thought it was a dust shield...popped it off and dang near lost all the balls! I don't know if this is a bad mark, I've seen other bearings from this time period with plastic retainers, and they seem to work just fine. :-\
The third image is the nuggets all spit shined, and last we have the finished piece. I'm giving this reel to a friend for use as a bait gathering reel...tossing sabiki rigs for skip jacks.(river herring) He's gonna flip, since he really liked that 7250 RLA I gave to my brother. 8)
You done good Mo!
Looking pretty now!
Quote from: mo65 on December 10, 2019, 07:24:26 PM
I snagged a 1300c on the cheap, probably because it was a mess. I decided to test my skills. Lately I've been taking the easy way out...buying near mint reels...those kind you wipe off the fingerprints and photograph. Not this time, this thing was real work. The inside was worse than the outside. I think I passed the challenge. ;D
The first pic is what I started with...yikes! The second photo is the bearing. Did anyone else notice that the retainer is plastic on these? I thought it was a dust shield...popped it off and dang near lost all the balls! I don't know if this is a bad mark, I've seen other bearings from this time period with plastic retainers, and they seem to work just fine. :-\
The third image is the nuggets all spit shined, and last we have the finished piece. I'm giving this reel to a friend for use as a bait gathering reel...tossing sabiki rigs for skip jacks.(river herring) He's gonna flip, since he really liked that 7250 RLA I gave to my brother. 8)
Good job, Mo, other than a tiny spot or two with flaked off paint that reel looks new....I don't remember the bearing retainer being plastic but it probably was. I flushed the bearing in mine with WD40, soaked it in Simple Green a couple hours in a jar, gave it a good shaking, gave it a good toothbrushing, rinsed it, spun it dry, then lubed it with Corrosion X. It stayed intact so I guess everything is ok.
Yep, these will make dandy skipjack reels. Skipjack are much harder to come by since these local steam plants switched from burning coal to natural gas, and don't discharge hot water any more. There is a bait shop that sells those for like 7 bucks apiece, and they aren't that big, maybe 10" to 12" On another note, you can buy live 7" to 9" rainbow trout at bait shops for 2 bucks apiece. Trout are popular muskie and striper bait 'round these parts.
Around the mid 1970's -- what I call "Corporate Marketing Engineering" became the new manufacturing technique for 90% of our fishing reels.
In another words --
If it doesn't show, seems smooth to the angler buying it at K-Mart, and can add a couple of quarters to the bottom line of each reel by substituting plastic shortcuts -- instead of old fashioned machined metals...
Balance out the lack of machined parts by making the reels more colorful, modern, and sharp looking to younger anglers.
The only good improvement was the skirted spools on spinners.
I wonder if a quality bearing could be substituted for the one with a plastic retainer?
These shortcuts in product quality are not limited to fishing reels. It is built into nearly every product today.
I have been looking for a decent used lightweight travel trailer. 17' to 20'. 3000 pounds dry. Aluminum welded frame and sidewalls, double axle, good layout for a couple, good kitchen, queen bed or Murphy, dry bath, just a basic unit that has not been used much -- in the $7K to $12K range, 3 to 10 years old, Winter Package.
We will keep the Six-Pac cabover camper for an all terrain vehicle and basecamp -- for more aggressive locations and conditions.
Looking at many of the manufacturers, it is easy to see how they get the weight down -- single axle, stick and staple construction using half the wood they did 15 years ago, smaller tanks, less options, much more plastics.
Whatever doesn't show -- doesn't matter...
That is why I like the vintage fishing reels that were manufactured when the companies and their workers took pride in turning out a product that would last multiple generations.
Daiwa is one of the better modern companies -- but still a long way from a Cardinal, DQ, Penn, Mitchell, Shakes, or ABU.
Just my observations and personal opinions.
Best,
Fred
And...Excellent write up, photos, and good job on that 1300C, Mike! Looks like new.
Another reel back from the ashes, Mo.
Frank
yet another fine restoration
wonder if that plastic is the type that melts in moderately aggressive solvents (_cetone, _ketone, etc.)
that would be a big minus in a bearing, but it's a common, easily-swapped Daiwa size -- correct?
I replaced a gear set in a Japanese built 1300c this last year and it had an all metal bearing,i still had the old pinion gear and bearing sitting out so i had to check out the Korean 1300c i have and it has the same bearing as Mike's reel. I suppose the move to Korea and cheaper bearing go together.
i use these mainly on crappie rods where they work well for tossing small kastmasters and spinners.
It looks like that plastic piece replaces both the bearing cage and the bearing shield. Ingenious idea if it works. But, it's also sort of the epitome of the stuff Fred is talking about.
Nice job Mo..... as usual.
-steve
Quote from: philaroman on December 11, 2019, 04:07:08 AM
Wonder if that plastic is the type that melts in moderately aggressive solvents (_cetone, _ketone, etc.)
I wondered also...so I didn't use my usual cleaning procedure.(a blast of Paslode tool cleaner) I just pumped oil through it to flush out any debris.
Quote from: swede 53 on December 11, 2019, 05:39:48 AM
I had to check out the Korean 1300c i have and it has the same bearing as Mike's reel. I suppose the move to Korea and cheaper bearing go together.
I'll admit at first the plastic retainer turned me off...but after pondering it...I'm less concerned. The balls are still riding on steel inner and outer races. The bearings that went to plastic
races are the ones that probably suck. So far I've only experienced the retainer(ball cage) being plastic.
Quote from: oc1 on December 11, 2019, 06:34:07 AM
It looks like that plastic piece replaces both the bearing cage and the bearing shield. Ingenious idea if it works.
I'll have to admit it's very easy to remove and replace...I didn't even need my reading specs!
nice write up and pictures thanks just so happens I have a 1300c or two maybe can't remember as I couldn't resist the price for them being old Japanese made daiwa's. That and the size is a good size reel for a lot of my fishing which is primarily river smallies, some lake large mouth, and the occasional surprise drum or catfish while smallie fishing. I'll have to get mine out of the box of numerous I need to go through reels I have. I'm bad about browsing the flea bay and buying cheap reels that appeal me which is pretty much anything european, japan, or american made.
Fred I hear you on the campers if you want quality ones it's hard to find without spending an arm and leg. The truck camper I have is an old starcraft pop up one, at some point I'd like to replace it with a pheonix or hallmark pop up since there the only couple companies making quality pop up truck campers that are more winter capable. As far as the trailers go I don't know I've never considered a trailer camper since anytime I camp I usually am dragging the boat, or a trailer with ATV's.