Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Woa
Piece of art

Interesting video of a Carbon Fiber Rod manufacturing process

These are battle ii's ??

Quote from: oc1 on Today at 05:29:40 AMBlind inserts can save the day in modern reels that have to be opened for service often. The undersize screws in plastic is no good. The manufacturers act like you will never take the darn thing apart; and I guess they are right more often than not.

As long as the hole can be widened enough, and the wall is deep enough to accept a threaded insert and still have enough meat left to hold it.  In many cases for reels, pull-out load requirements are relatively minimal - so that part is OK,  but just by memory, I am not remembering many plastic reel parts that had enough meat to accommodate inserts.  At least the types of inserts that I am familiar with with.

Ome more note on thread forming screw hygiene:  If I am extra careful to reuse the same female threads and not over-tighten, I can get dozens of re-uses easily with thread forming screws.  Not nearly as good as tapped metal threads, but good enough.

The tricky part about thread forming screws is that they are very accommodating about forming a new thread path in the hole if you are not careful.  Depending on the type of plastic, that threaded hole lifespan can drop into the low single digits if you are not re-using the same female threads.

-J

In the spirit of just wanting to be able to do it myself (time, money, etc) ive started working on a little reel station at home.

I have been doing some R&D on a DIY reel spooler with a focus on line tension/variable control of tension (tension wheel as opposed to locking down spool). in the end it's been a combo of DIY and integration of existing tools (there are just some things you aren't going to get perfect if you're not an engineer/have access to a full CNC workshop)

Ive looked over a couple different designs from companies already putting these rigs out there - consensus is they're expensive; everyone does it a little differently; even the higher end rigs have components that wear down/need replacing. i also believe linewinder rigs at most shops aren't sufficient - they primarily count line for the purpose of sales, and a lot aren't designed for heavier lines/loads and offshore fishing. needed a rig that could handle all sizes of spin reels and didn't have access to create mandrels/etc (this would be next steps..) so initial design relies on compression of the spool in order to hold. also was on a budget so being able to leverage my drill as the power source also went into the design but eventually will replace w/ ac gear motor.

Currently the rig is still in a prototype phase, but current specs are as followed:

- supports spinning reels (size 1000-30000)
- conventional (up to 130) *Work in progess; priority was spin reels for rec tuna)
- line leveling/line counting
- drag tension control (up to 10lbs; pe line 6)
- drill powered


Now, i've left room for improving the rig - further building it out to include a mounting system for the conventional reel seat (will be adding the IK ver. 700 to support this). Another future addition will be to the line tensioning portion to bump up the total pressure (20+lbs pe 12+) (ik ver. 500). Lastly id like to work in a potential motor with a speed control dial to drive the line (finally got one picked out - oriental motor 12.5 gear ratio 90w speed contorl)

line spool holder & Line tensioner (Uoya X Studio Ocean IK ver. 300):





Reel spool holder:



additional tools:

Bouz drag checker (up to 30lb):



levelwind:



full setup:





finished product:



hoping to gather any feedback folks might have and happy to answer any questions as well.

Thank you

Try checking the clicker alarm to see if it is tight, sometimes they are a little loose and sloppy. Main gear and pinion will run you around $60 also tax and shipping. May as well replace pinion bearing also which is around another $20. From mystic Penn parts. I would clean out and regrease pinion bearing first though before I proceeded to invest any further. I have a 40nxldhs that I use for rockfish and yoyo and it gives me some noise now and then but it is from loose clicker button.

Quote from: pointbob on Today at 01:26:55 AM

Quote from: jgp12000 on December 06, 2024, 12:31:39 AMI got 3 words "712" Penn.

would it handle 27 pound chinook in the river?

My first "big" fish was a 33lb striped bass taken from an inlet with very heavy current. I was using a 712 with 10 or 12 mono. Had plenty of room to follow it along the sandy beach and eventually landed it. So YES. 

PS: Probably my greatest fishing memory, I was only a teen at the time. 

Nice collection Mark! Also nice to see most are 2 speed!

These are common where very stubby screws are required

Hello All,

First post here, been lurking on the forums for a bit now and was due to sign up.  I wanted to share something i've been working on that was inspired by other members on the forum as well as some other products out there - that is, a rig or tool to assist with the servicing of spinning reels. 

Folks like David 13 and the folks at Rods1 were the catalyst for thinking about my own rig and figured it would be the perfect project to take on ahead of the winter (and is something I didn't realize my workshop needed until now).





I had just finished tying up some custom bucktails and was poking around the forums when I first saw the concept and it seems obvious once you're aware of it, but truthfully am surprised by the lack of products out there on the market (i do think there is a market for em) - so I began to start working on one of my own that would ideally combine elements from the previous rigs i've seen plus that of the fly tying vise (in the end i vastly overthought the process  )

here is my initial design:



https://alantani.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=148492;image

*The goal was 360 degree articulation (vertical post spins 360; hinge off the post with 180 degree lever; another hinge that can spin 360 off that, that also has about 340 degree lever; lastly, the reel seat itself would spin 360.

*i also wanted a smaller profile base that would not interfere as much with what i have on the table, so ended up hollowing out that base and filling it with lead. there are formulas to help calculate the weight needed to offset cantilevers but admittedly just eyeballed it and loaded as much lead as possible.

ultimately as i am not an engineer by trade, i kept running into failure points within the design where certain loads within certain positions would not hold - the heaviest spinning reels with line spooled really won't exceed 40 oz, and generally the spool itself will be removed but wanted to have a design that would be sturdy enough for anything you can throw at it (could even just have a 2nd use as a reel display stand).

what i ultimately landed on (and in the spirit of saving folks the trouble if they decide to design their own), was to scrap by own stand and purchase a an articulating stand off amazon to pair with my reel seat and base.



it's tough to beat for $25 off amazon, but would encourage folks to shop around as well for there are other stands with slightly varying designs that might fit your needs more. 

thank you all for contributing/sharing the knowledge you have, i am excited to be able to try and do the same