Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Soooo, the take-away for me is 1) don't let someone else tie the line to spool knot, nor should I trust the "shop" to wind it right, much like I don't trust mechanics and have to inspect everything they do that I can see. Use a self tightening knot, faced the right way. Maybe de-line it more than I wanna and check or re-do the knot and lower coil tightness.

Guy did my timing belt(including pulleys, hoses, radiator fluid, water pump and thermostat), but he didn't use what I expected him to with the fluid I bought. Overheating light came on a week latter. He didn't TAKE THE TIME to "burp" the cooling system, and over the next 3 days, I added about a gallon.

Difficult to tell if lug nuts are tight once the vehicle is off the lift/jack. The weight of the vehicle might put pressure on the wheels/loose nuts making them seem tight.

Guy in the 1st video complained about braid wrapping on the rod tip. One has to untwist about 100' of braid every couple of trips, especially if there's been any trolling.

First of all, welcome to the family.
 As for your Orvis question, I can attest to the quality of the Mitchell as well as the Quick. Nothing produced today of comparable price is made as well. As for the Orvis, I would pass to Midway Tommy. I don't believe they made a spinning reel he hasn't seen and worked on.
Although I am very fond of Mitchell reels in general, if I were to fish with one of the choice, I would probably go with the Quick.

So I keep circling back mentally to the recent experience at the shop. Specifically that the person who was strongly in favor of mono backing to avoid slipping, tying an arbor knot with braid that ultimately failed completely. Not slipping on the spool, the tag end slipped thru and the knot was history. Complete failure.

I've been beating around the bush here because I hate insulting anyone. The point I'm circling around is that he felt that mono was necessary to prevent slipping, because he might not be that good at tying knots in general.

Thanks Joe for the thoughtful reply.  I think I better understand where you are going with this.

I think that  following observation is useful for a successful arbor knot:

If you tie the arbor knot to tighten as you wind, the line tension increases the grip on the arbor.  BUT...  with a fuller spool,  the friction between all the wraps prevents any pulling load from reaching the arbor. And since braid has very little stretch compared to nylon, once the spool is filled, there is little residual tension in the line to pull on the knot.  So the arbor knot just sits there,  probably a bit less tight then when we started and not getting any tighter when we pull line from the filled spool.

Now the effect of pulling on the line is  more  like gripping the arbor knot and its coils with a pair of channel locks and turning  the whole tie off around the arbor.   

The trick that seems to works for me is wrapping over the tag end as Jerry Brown recommended, and is shown in the video below.

Not exactly certain as to why it might work, but I think that the compressive load from the fill presses the tag against the arbor  at many points along the axis instead  of around the axis. The knot cannot rotate without taking the sideways tag with it.

My theory was  that the specific knot is not as important as wrapping over the tag properly.   But to be honest, I haven't done any rigorous testing to prove that the tag (or knot) is the key vs just doing a better job on the spool fill.  I tried it all together. Too much work to do a bunch of spool fills to prove a theory.


-J

Looks like 11:30 pm tonight so you still have a few hours.

Here is the screw for that 2052, Steve —-

Along with a bail spring.

This is basic reel repair 101 —- errors that most of us have done at one time, or another.

We figure since the reel is cruddy inside —- that the 5/16" hex head steel screw is just stuck to the bronze main gear.

So we force it since we have it in a socket or a nut driver —- not realizing until too late that it goes on counter-clockwise and comes off clockwise.

Screw snaps off in the main.

When disassembling vintage reels —- always be aware of this possibility of a reverse-threaded keeper screw.

Tread carefully, because these are not easy parts to find anywhere, for any price — without some effort, and luck, and waiting.

Send me your address, and I will send it out tomorrow.  N/C.

Best, Fred

and when did they make these 900 reels then later series 4420,4430,4440...I also have 300 Pro came with wooden box ,the handle quickly broke so I have to use regular handle on it

I wasn't sure if this group was aware of this service, so I thought I'd do a little post. Let me start off by saying I am in no way affiliated with this service.

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PJ

(Admins if this post is not allowed please delete)

welcome!!!!

Quote from: oc1 on March 31, 2024, 06:19:52 AMDid you ever point your rod tip down (like when fishing from a pier) and have the Mitchell 300 push button spool fall off and into the water?

Say buddy, what are you doing? I'm fishing for a spool.