Gear grinding on 113H

Started by Finest Kind, May 20, 2023, 09:49:41 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Maxed Out

 Yokes have rounded off edges on one side, and squared egdes on the other. The rounded edge side goes up when installing. If it upside down, the pinion will grind on the square edge

 Ted
We Must Never Forget Our Veterans....God Bless Them All !!

JasonGotaProblem

I have a few external drag sideplates. If you screw it up i can give you another for the cost of shipping. 
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.

Finest Kind

Quote from: Maxed Out on May 24, 2023, 06:35:42 PMYokes have rounded off edges on one side, and squared egdes on the other. The rounded edge side goes up when installing. If it upside down, the pinion will grind on the square edge

 Ted
[/quoteOh OK. The funny thing is, on the SS yoke, I could not tell which side was which. They both look rounded and very smooth. Definitely nicer than the standard brass. But I did try it both ways and that didn't help. Also switched back and forth with the original brass yoke that was in the reel. No dice!

Finest Kind

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on May 24, 2023, 06:42:11 PMI have a few external drag sideplates. If you screw it up i can give you another for the cost of shipping. 
Thank you Jason. That is a very generous offer! I am going to put it back together with the stock gears in a couple of days and see how it goes. I won't get to the sideplate modifications until next winter. If I mess it up, I will give you a holler!
Thank you,John

Keta

It only takes a few minutes.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Finest Kind

Quote from: Keta on May 24, 2023, 11:12:52 PMIt only takes a few minutes.
I sent the gear back to Mystic for a refund. With all SS internal parts and pinion (and steel main gear), plus the aluminum frame, I believe I will have the strength I am looking for, and more torque as well with the 3.25:1. If the reel is too slow for my needs, then I will make the change. Of all the mods I decided to do on this reel, the high speed gears were the only one I was not 100% sold on, so I don't mind waiting till next season if need be.
John

Swami805

With the upgrade drag, stainless sleeve and DD bridge you should be fine, plenty strong. Hope you post a few pictures of the fish you catch with it
Do what you can with that you have where you are

Brewcrafter

John - sounds good, one other area that I would caution to be aware of on assembly, especially since you are going with the stock gear (which those steel gears are fine, BTW - elsewhere I believe there is a thread on stock Penn gears and they are considered some of the best for quality).  Back then due to the relatively thick factory metal drag washers and thick asbestos friction material, the slots for the eared metal washer were not cut all the way to the bottom of the gear (A - it was unnecessary, and B - probably marginally greater strength down at the bottom of the gear - nothing that any of us would ever tax in our wildest dreams, but just sound engineering).  When upgrading to any of Brian's excellent 5 stack or even 7 stack drags, note that there are sometimes varying thicknesses of CF included, and it would be prudent to check that with the bottom (first two layers) of Gear/CF/keyed metal/CF/eared metal that the metal eared washer is not bottoming out on the grooves of the gear, thus preventing complete compression of the drag stack and maximum drag.  We are talking thousands/inch here, and while Brian's instructions are very comprehensive on the order of installation, fumbling on the order is an easy mistake to make (ask me how I know  :D ), and again as Lee pointed out, manufacturing tolerances back then were good, but this is one spot where .001 can make a difference between just OK drag numbers and truly stellar drag numbers.  Look forward to you sharing with us how the reel performs for you this season (you have a really nice setup!) and if you have any other questions; please don't hesitate! - john

Gfish

Yup. John's spot-on.
I have one of that era's 113H's, with the outside drag opening access plates. The stock metal drag washers are real thick. Got ridda the thick asbestos washers for H100's, but needed two below the eared washer to get the height above the gear groves. It's a shelfie now. A rubber impregnated "top hat"(water resistant) washer and 2-new ball bearings, + the H100's is all I added. Has that 11oz chromed brass spool for wire-line trolling.
Does anyone know about wire-line? Do "they" use it anymore?
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

Finest Kind

Wow. Thanks for all the info guys. I was just looking at the steel gear, I see what John is saying about the slot not being possibly deep enough. BTW, I am using the Penn drag stack with metals and HT-100's. I put the first four washers in the gear to see if the eared washer would hang up on the bottom of the groove. It looks OK, but that's without compressing the drag stack. I still have the original thick metals that were in the reel, they are 4/1000 thicker than the new Penn drag washers that I have. I am going to put an old thicker keyed washer as the bottom most metal below the eared washer which should give me at least another 4/1000. I will test it with a scale when I get the reel together and spooled up. I will be using 80# braid on this reel, so if I get around 20 pounds at the top of the spool I will be happy.
John

Keta

Use a Dremel to extend the slots.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Finest Kind

Gfish-Wire line trolling is still very popular in these parts for striped bass and bluefish. The 113H and the 114H are the only reels anyone uses as far as I know.You spool 100 yards of 40 or 50 pound test stainless steel wire over backing, I used to use #80 Dacron. I say "used too" because I rarely use wire these days. I used to use it daily when I had a charter boat years ago.It is the only reliable method of catching a boatload of fish for a party of inexperienced fisherman, because the mate lets out the lines, (two) the Captain positions the boat, and the angler reels in the fish. Everybody's happy. 100 yards of wire will get your lines down about 30 feet at 3 to 4 knots. If you go to Montauk on any day the Charter boats will all be fishing wire, like they did 50 years ago, because it's still the most reliable method of putting fish in the boat. Those heavy brass spools are the only thing that stands up to the strain and abrasion of the wire. Aluminum would be destroyed in no time.
John

Finest Kind

Quote from: Keta on May 26, 2023, 09:35:54 PMUse a Dremel to extend the slots.
Thanks Lee, I will give that a shot.

Finest Kind

I wanted to post an update on this reel since I have it back together and spolled up. I used a Penn steel main gear and pinion. I put one of the original thicker (+.0004) keyed washers in the bottom of the gear to give me some additional clearance for drag tightening because of the shallow cuts for the eared washers on the older steel gear. It seems to have worked, I have 22lbs. of drag at the very top of the spool which is more than I intend to fish with anyway. The reel is smooth with excellent freespool. The spool could use a little shimming, it's a little proud on the gear side, but that's a chore for next winter for me. The only other fitting issue was some filing of the harness lugs which were 3/32" too large for the Tiburon frame. Perfect now. The reel is spolled with 510 yards of #80 braid, with a 20' #100 lb. test fluorocarbon leader. All in all, the reel feels very solid. I'm happy with how it turned out. Thanks again to all the members who have shared their time and expertise.
John

Brewcrafter