My reel foot says 01 03 03, I emailed Abu about it they told me its a 2 speed reel and sent me a 2 speed reel schematic. It doesnt have any parts that would make it a 2 speed though? It has an anti reverse dog if that tells you anything. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
You may need to read them the numbers in reverse.
So I need a schematic for an 03 03 01?
Hi. If your reel was a two speed, it would be burgandy, with a different shaped transmission sideplate.
Pretty much all round 6500 reels from 1999 to 2012 are the same, except for cosmetics.
Does your reel have the instant anti-reverse, or a mechanical anti-reverse dog, with a ball bearing in the crank boss.
I'm hoping you know the difference between the 2 anti-reverse systems. If your handle stops instantly when cranking backwards, you have IAR. If the handle moves backwards maybe 1/5 of a turn, then catches, you have mechanical anti-reverse.
Go here, and start looking at 99-02, on up. http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/ProductData.cfm?id=Abu Garcia 99-02 to mean the first four numbers of the drawings depicted.
It has an anti reverse dog.
...
http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/pdf/Abu%20Garcia/1991-92/6500c3%209902.PDF should work.
Woo, thanks a lot. Now I have another question is the main gear, the brass one, supposed to snap onto the shaft and stay there?
You may have this model. Note the hand-written notes to get rid of that rather impractical one leaf dog.
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/ambassadeur/Ambassadeur_6500C_99-05.pdf
Quote from: bassacre on December 20, 2013, 08:25:23 PM
Woo, thanks a lot. Now I have another question is the main gear, the brass one, supposed to snap onto the shaft and stay there?
Hello. It's a tight friction-fit to the driveshaft. Ensure you place a small dab of grease at the contact point of the gear, and the driveshaft. If you leave it dry, a running fish will heat up the gear, and driveshaft, and cause it to freeze to the driveshaft. Not a pretty result. When I was a beek, (noob), I did that, and was very embarrassed when the sport told me I'd caused him to lose a fish.
So if I hold the gear shaft and try to spin the gear it should or should not spin freely?
Quote from: bassacre on December 20, 2013, 08:36:52 PM
So if I hold the gear shaft and try to spin the gear it should or should not spin freely?
Hi, it needs to spin freely. If you've taken it off already, and went to put the gear back, there's a spot just before
it seats, that it gets a bit stiff. Put the gear all the way down, and note the spot where contact is made with the driveshaft. Pull it back up, as that's where a _little_ dab of grease goes. If you overgrease, the drag washer inside the gear will get contaminated. The one between the main, and the driveshaft always gets gooped.
I will usually use Cal's drag grease where Ken is referring to so that there isn't any contamination issues.
If your asking this question, I'm thinking you are having a hard time taking the main gear off the drive shaft. Hold the drive shaft and twist the gear as you pull it off then file the burs down. That's what is making it hard to remove. As was mentioned earlier, a bit of grease or lightly oil the gear when you put it back on.
Persuant to LL's observations above, the only burs I have ever seen on the driveshafts would be way up top at the threaded portion where the slot is cut to allow the handle to rest upon. Now and again they flare, making a bur. Are those the ones, Larry? When there, they are so obvious I neglected to mention them, glad you did.
No the main gear slides on and off the gear shift with no resistance at all. I'm wondering if I have the correct two paired together.
Hmmmm..... if you have never had the reel apart before, and it worked before you entered, it's highly unlikely the pinion and the main are a mismatch. What is it exactly you are having grief with.
Are you now saying that the main and the pinion will no longer mesh, and you can't place the main where it's supposed to be, on the driveshaft?
If the reel was apart maybe pinion has gone upside down?
I have taken the reel down and put it back together twice and each time I spin the handle and I get no movement on the spool.
Quote from: bassacre on December 21, 2013, 03:48:33 PM
I have taken the reel down and put it back together twice and each time I spin the handle and I get no movement on the spool.
Whaaaaaaaa? This is a far cry from a gearset issue you have been on about !!!! What sort of spring do you have on the position holder? A coil spring, or one of those ones that look like baby sugar tongs? I don't have a pic of the flat spring, just a current no-spring one, and a spring. and while we are there, note the position of the position holder... some folks make the rookie mistake of putting the pinion yoke on top of the position holder, instead of underneath like the pic.
And this sometimes destroys the position holder, causing the reel to do what you say it's doing. You can sometimes save the mere under 5.00 cost of a new position holder, by carefully bending the "prongers" downwards so they are once again even, and applying slightly more pressure. I missed Gulf's post about the pinion, check there too, as advised. (Good catch) That could be it.
(http://s13.postimage.org/ty17iq29f/POS_HOLDER.jpg)
Also: Note the clutch arm in the pic.... the "triangular" part, right at the post for the driveshaft. On one of the triangle legs, see the small "tab"... bent upwards nearly a 90° angle. If the position holder is functioning and the reel still won't engage, ~~carefully~~ Exaggerate that little bend to a steeper angle, so it can more easily flip into the bottom teeth of the driveshaft. Carefully to mean ~~ensure~~ the base of the triangle remains flat.
(http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s263/nimo_jon/abu%20ultra/P7.jpg)
Quote from: Ken_D on December 21, 2013, 06:59:31 AM
Persuant to LL's observations above, the only burs I have ever seen on the driveshafts would be way up top at the threaded portion where the slot is cut to allow the handle to rest upon. Now and again they flare, making a bur. Are those the ones, Larry? When there, they are so obvious I neglected to mention them, glad you did.
I see his story has changed a bit :D
I work mainly on reels used for muskie and I found the keyed washers tend to make a bur on the drive shaft and it can make it really difficult to get the drag stack and gear off. Muskie guys tend to really crank their drag down for some reason.
Gotcha L....the only burs I've seen as you described were on the 7000C Syncros, to the degree the driveshaft was darned near friction welded to the gearset. Cheers, KD. ps: any luck on that BPS reel.
I haven't got that sleeve on the drag stack. I have the gear shaft, the main gear, the drag stack and the bellvilles. I got the reel for free and it has never engaged properly so I decided to take it apart and try to get it to function properly.
If there is no instant anti reverse you should have plastic drive shaft bearing instead of metal sleeve.
If this part is missing you can not get enough pressure to the drag stack to turn to spool (or engage). It's like having zero drag.
When I took the reel apart originally part number 20960 was not there so I ordered it. It had the bearing and the Bellville washers though.
Quote from: bassacre on December 21, 2013, 07:38:40 PM
I haven't got that sleeve on the drag stack. I have the gear shaft, the main gear, the drag stack and the bellvilles. I got the reel for free and it has never engaged properly so I decided to take it apart and try to get it to function properly.
Yoo-Hoo....who cares about the sleeve !!!!!!
The pic was for the Clutch arm !!!!! The issue was non-release and how to deal with it, not a sleeve !!! And we have now moved from a gearset issue, to a non-engagement issue, to you buying parts. What else are you not saying ????? Diagnostics are based on _input_ .... And you have been a little shy on that, don't you think?
Is the little shim still under the driveshaft on the post? Is the E-clip up on top of the driveshaft in place?
I didn't think there was a problem with the clutch arm. I'm just trying to understand what you're referring to not trying to dodge any questions or anything.
Quote from: bassacre on December 20, 2013, 08:36:52 PM
So if I hold the gear shaft and try to spin the gear it should or should not spin freely?
The gear should spin on the shaft with little or no resistance.
OK.... we are back to the gearset.....The concerns seem to be: the reel not engaging when push to cast, then having the handle continuing to just spin, and/or the gearset not meshing from the gitgo? Are all parts according to the drawing covering your reel, present and accounted for, and installed correctly?
There's X number of reasons a reel will not come back to reel mode, from cast mode, when the button is depressed. Back to the gearset: Are they meshed and in place. Is the position holder installed correctly with a spring that works.
Is the clutch arm catching the driveshaft correctly. Is the little shim under the driveshaft present. Is the cast button free to move in and out in the sideplate slot. Is the top eclip in place. Is the transmission sideplate true, not bent or distorted. Is the frame square and not bent over or racked.
I suspect there's little else can cause the reel not to return to reel from cast. But errare humanae est.
Quote from: bassacre on December 21, 2013, 07:38:40 PM
I haven't got that sleeve on the drag stack. I have the gear shaft, the main gear, the drag stack and the bellvilles. I got the reel for free and it has never engaged properly so I decided to take it apart and try to get it to function properly.
Your opening sentence says 6500C3.....where is the crank bearing? Where are the 2 bearing spacers? And all metal and synthetic drag washers? Some reels take one brg. spacer, with the star's brass bit acting as spacer 2. I'll say again: are all reel parts according to the drawing that suits your reel, all there, and put in correctly.
When a sport requests assistance, it's a given.... repeat... _a given_, that all parts are present and accounted for..unless otherwise stated, which you did not bother to do..with a failure just happening.... not a mish mash of gearsets in question, reel won't engage spool, parts bought, yada, with information incomplete. As before, diagnosis is contingent on input. Bad input, bad solutions.
It comes to my mind that bent / worn clutch arm could be the reason.
I had this issue with one 5500 size reel.
Symptom was that spool did not engage (and thus not reeling in) when starting reeling after spool release.
That's why I was asking for the schematic as I am unsure if I have all the parts for this reel.
Quote from: bassacre on December 22, 2013, 12:35:30 PM
That's why I was asking for the schematic as I am unsure if I have all the parts for this reel.
You were given a link to a typical C3 schematic way back in the thread.
Was it not the one? You were given a link to the web page where other very close variants were to be found.
Did you not check? You were shown an image of a clutch arm and position holder back in the thread.
On page one of the Abu forum there are several tutorials on round reels.
Did you not open and look? You were asked to supply information to several questions,
and you have not !!I added up all my life-force attempting to get you going again, and I have def. exceeded the fee a repair shop would charge you to repair, as said shop would have had the reel in hand. Add in the life force of the other folks trying to get you fishing, and you are beginning to be expendible.
Said repair shop (or any one of us here, with reel in hand) would have solved your issue in
under 10 minutes, got you the parts days ago, put you back together clean and fixed, and you would be out fishing for 25 or less !!!
Try ereplacement's site: they name the bits. Pricing is different than dealers, but please don't come back focussed on that, like you did on the sleeve in the clutch pic. Open your reel, print a drawing from Nutter, Mikes, or wherever, along with the one at e-replacment, and start looking for parts missing, like everybody thought you did at the very beginning !!!! http://www.ereplacementparts.com/abu-garcia-6500-ambassadeur-parts-c-187196_187197_187492.html
*reference to troll and demographic deleted.
(deleted post ^^ )
Okay, fellas... enough o'that now.
Bassacre, please understand that people have done their very best to help you with all they can. It has not been so easy. Perhaps it would be best if we just put this one away for now.
Ken D, it's all right. Things like this happen sometimes. You done good.
Tools down.
.
Thanks all, Alto, & Dr. Rob.
Mr. Bass; All my input is without malice, and may have lacked respect, in your view. Oops. The sentence on the demographic was not an insult... I moderate another forum, where many not-so-old folks fish, and have issues. You may or may not fit the group. I dunno. And there are many bridges world-wide with many occupants living under them. Regrets for any and all transgressions....Just want to get you on the water is all. Later, KD.
Quote from: Ken_D on December 21, 2013, 04:51:48 PM
Gotcha L....the only burs I've seen as you described were on the 7000C Syncros, to the degree the driveshaft was darned near friction welded to the gearset. Cheers, KD. ps: any luck on that BPS reel.
Nothing. Couldn't even find out who made it for sure. Gave up and gave the drag measurements to Dawn for replacement. Had the same schematic problem with a Wallmart ABU 6500. Drove Pure Fishing crazy trying to find a schematic. They didn't have any luck either. Again, went to Dawn for drag replacement and buffed up the keyed washer (it was a bit corroded).
Hope all had a Merry Christmas and that you have the tightest of lines in the New Year!!
Drawing in your in basket as at 1 minute ago. Happy fixing.