Hello everyone!
I recently purchased a used 80 tw. I have been trying to remove the side plate screws and 3 of them are frozen solid. 1 is on the lever side at the end of the drag lever plate and the other 2 are on the other side. I bolt has been broken off and the other 2 screws are close to being stripped. The question is what is the best way to get these out? Heat then cold? Soak, soak, soak? A local machine shop said they could possibly get them out for me at a rate of 90 dollars per hour. ??? All help is appreciated as I want to return this monster to glory.
try to soak in corrosion X for a few days. this works wonders. you may be able to get a screw extractor kit cheaply; does it have torx or slots?
It has the slots. I'm disappointed I couldn't back them all out. They had a really old degraded grease on them. Soaking for 2 days now and no luck. I was hoping to try the heat method but don't want to damage or weaken the cast aluminum frame.
You might try a good soldering iron. This way you can pinpoint the heat right to the head of the screw.
I have a D550 Weller and use it all the time on frozen screws. If they're really bad it may take several periods of heat and cool downs to get them to loosen up.
Good luck and let us know how you make out!
...................Lou
If you have soaked them then you might use an impact screwdriver to get them loosened up.
my worst nightmare.
our best results have been to torch the screw until it is red hot, then hit it immediately with freeze off aerosol spray. don't worry about the frame, it will be fine. it's just gonna smoke like crazy! alternatively, grind down the fillister head with an end mill, pull the side plate off and grab the stud with channel locks, then hope you can muscle it off. yeah, these are no fun!!!!!!
Lou's soldering iron trick has worked most of the time for me -- but you need a good, hot soldering gun to focus the heat -- then ice it down with that freeze aerosol spray. A couple of times should do the trick.
If not, there is no alternative except to drill and extract the screw. You will need a solid mount and a drill press.
The extraction process will be accomplished by hand for safety and control -- with an easy out mounted on a "T" bar.
Nothing to lose -- and the only way if the easier ways fail, IMO.
This is the big risk on used aluminum frames that were not serviced properly by greasing the screws.
Good luck -- show us some pics.
Best,
Fred
i have a 50 sw with two foot screws that are frozen and wont budge. Was transferring everything to new frame from randy since old frame is bent. MY cure for this? Hello Scotts i need a foot and 4 screws and gasket.
Worst case scenario, you could drill the heads off the screws. Because the side plates are so thick on internationals, you will have a bit of screw to grip protruded from the frame. Locking vice grips and twist them out. Has worked well for me in the past when all else has failed.
Well I finally got a side plate off by grinding the last screw head off and there is some work that needs to be done. I am ordering some parts from Scott ' s website but can't find the drag washer for the penn 80 tw. Anyone know which it is?
When all else fails i use the drill press and drill the head of the screw using a dremel mill end bit. Its usually the head of the screw thats corroded into the side plate. Then get the side plate off. You can punch the rest of the screw out of the plate.
The stud comes out easy with heat and Kroil if even needed. The stud usually comes out by hand from all the previous heating and oiling.
The corrosion on these 3 screws is deep. The first one I started drilling out broke off near the bottom of the screw while trying to back it out. >:( more soaking. But now I can at least apply heat from more angles having the frame exposed.
Quote from: PennDaddy on April 28, 2017, 03:42:11 PM
Well I finally got a side plate off by grinding the last screw head off and there is some work that needs to be done. I am ordering some parts from Scott ' s website but can't find the drag washer for the penn 80 tw. Anyone know which it is?
It doesn't show a definite drag part for the 80 tw anyone have any help?
https://www.mysticparts.com//images/pennparts/schematics/80tw.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com//images/pennparts/schematics/80tw.pdf)
117DN-80T DRIVE PLATE (OUTER)
117AN-80T DRIVE PLATE (INNER)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Thank you very much!
Can you buy just the drag washer or do you have to buy the side plate at the same time? Also, is it bad if the metal drag washer, the large one, has circle grooves worn into it? Sorry for the newby questions it's my first international rebuild.
It looks like you need to replace it all. The 117, 117A, #7A metal friction plate.
If it alreasy has a worn CF drag.. you may try to recondition it, by working the weave up with a clean chamois cloth and brake cleaner. The metal plate can usually be reconditioned by honing with various grit sandpaper on a glass surface making figure 8s. 3rd gen replacement CF discs are no longer available through your normal parts distributors, but you may check with JDTreasures on Ebay to see if they have any. Much cheaper and the same end result. New duradrag should work with your existing pinion. Clean and check all of your bearings, the clicker pawl and ratchet plate first so you can get by with 1 parts order. I usually replace the bellevilles as well.
John
I'm definitely replacing the drag and bellevilles. There are some real good grooves in the washer which would take it too far below spec if sanded. They make a cross reference part which will have to work.